AH64ID

Absolutely, and one of the reasons I no longer run the stock cam. The stock turbo, pistons, and tuning also played a big role.... But for me anymore.

We all know the last of the 5.9's was the most powerful, and least fuel efficient of the 5.9's. Cummins didn't put an external EGR on the truck to help it along, but to meet emissions they had to keep cylinder pressure lower by retarding timing... less power, higher EGT's, etc.. The common consensus is that a peak cylinder pressure at 9-12° ATDC is best for performance, and efficiency. That means that all the fuel needs to be injected, and ignited prior to that point so the pressure hits when it should. Take a look at this chart and you might see why the EGT's are high and fuel efficiency is lower. This is how many degrees ATDC the injector stays open. Top is rpm's, and left is MM3. OEM tuning runs up to 132mm3.

Looks alive in the pic :-)

We did a camping trip this last weekend and had electrical hookups (probably our only time this year with hookups) and got to thinking about the batteries. While they where on float, 13.2, as soon as we got there the camper is also hooked up all week at the house at 13.2. I tend to think that batteries will do better if they aren't on a float 24/7. So I emailed Progressive Dynamics, who makes my converter, and asked if the converter could be used without a battery in the system. They responded this morning and said that the converter, PD4655, can be safely operated without a battery. I think that I will turn the battery switch off once the batteries drop to a float and are fully charged in the future. This way I can leave the camper plugged in for the fridge between trips but I am not sitting on the charger all the time. Granted the charge does drop to 0.0A, I still think they should get more "rest". I did a 12 hour test and at the end of the 12 hours the batteries where still at 13.11V :-) That's pretty good if you ask me.

I missed the HID part.... I hadn't had enough coffee I guess.

The easiest thing would be to get a set of 12V bulbs for it. I am sure it could be done with some diodes and wiring, but ultimately I am not sure it's worth it.

My dad has been telling me for 20 years that engines are going to be able to burn "x" number of gallons, it's up to the operator to determine how many engine hours that is going to be. The older Cats, maybe new ones too, also had what where called cat hour meters. At 1600, I think, rpms it was a 1:1 hour:engine hour. Above that rpm ending hours added up faster, and below it was slower. Maintenace was based off that hour meter. Dorkweed, how many hours on the engine?

I am allowed to go as low as 70 by Toyo, found my notes, but Les Schwab only put 50 in them to start. I will, personally, go as low as 50 in the winter and not worry about a bead. I am not sure I would go much lower than that thou. 50 psi is a lot of holding force.

I know that Toyo recommends a higher pressure than I expected, can't recall off the top of my head, to keep the bead seated.... but I don't know if that is due to mfgr CYA or fact. Of course I didn't get any good photos of the bead area.

I would think they are more accurate and will last longer. They will also be more rugged and handle the rough roads better. Where do you see digital ammeters for 1/10 the cost? Remember I get them at dealer cost, which makes the Blue Sea's much more reasonable. They also look a lot nicer than cheap gauges (which I had previously). Some of the cheapest digital ammeters I can find are $20ish for 50A, my charger is 55A and the inverter will draw up to ~150A.

I am not sure yet, I would think the longer the drive the better the chance. I think the amp draw during the fridge operation is greater than the truck can provide, but I am not sure if the net effect will be positive or negative. The truck wiring, and trailer connection, are limited to 30A but the most I have seen at the batteries is 15A. The batteries leave full and if I can get 15A the fridge only has to run 1/3 of the time and they will stay full. I cannot count on the truck charging the batteries from a reduced SOC on most drives (50% SOC would take 12-14 hours driving), so the camper will be plugged in with a full charge and cold fridge.

Exactly, I don't see it being worthwhile any other time. I really don't even need it then, but it was an easy way to add a junction box.

No problem. With it on propane its about .7-1.2 ADC.

Yes it is.

I ordered a complete set of Timken bearings for the trailer. When I was installing the EZ-Flex system I pulled one hub off and looked at the OEM bearings. They are loose/cheap Chinese bearings, so I will pull them and replace them with good bearings before my first long trip of the summer.

Happy Birthday!!

They are all aluminum. The open cap fits a Yukon hub perfectly, as shown above (if you can see thru the mud).

I know that cutoff well, but we normally use Johnston cutoff (saves 3 miles) as we have found Tolo Lake (saves 5 miles) to add time even thou it decreases miles. Our camper looked pretty similar this weekend, but I will say the NK mudflaps on the hitch really keep the front clean. It took $8 at the pressure washer to get the truck and camper mostly white again. We woke up to it snowing on us yesterday morning at 3685', and went for a drive and it was starting to stick at 4,500'. By the time we left at 1pm it had quit and rain had started, then hit us with sleet on the drive out. 30 miles, round trip, of dirt in the rain will get some stuff dirty!!

I am not sure why Geno's would say that, lots of people running 7um and even the 5um PF7977 in the VP44. A filter is only restrictive when it's plugged, a looser filter is not a fuel pressure fixer.

My ebay rims where under 1K for 5 of them, with lugnuts and 2 extra open center caps. My tires where quite a but more than what you posted, I am not sure I would trust a $133 LRG tire...

I have 3.73s, which with the 245/70R19.5 is about perfect. Overdrive could be .5 lower when towing but 65 is only 2500 in 5th if needed. I still really want a 7 speed manual with double OD's, a .85:1 and a .68.1.

I do like the look of duals, but for me that's as close as I will get. They are not very practical for how use the truck. I really don't think the single 19.5 leaves much on the table for stability, but it have nothing to compare to. I just know that I don't have perceived tire flex anymore, what little flex I have feels like suspension and even that is minimal.

This is why I went with dynamic wheel balances on the truck and trailer, and this isn't the worst I have had.

www.filterspro.com I was surprised how low the prices where, even with shipping. My last order included oil and fuel filters.

Torsions only ride better at the upper end of the weight scale, if you are below 1/3 they don't hardly have any usable suspension and aren't really better until above 2/3 capacity. Torsions are also very picky about being level for brake distribution, where tandem springs are less picky.