AH64ID

You won't want to use it up front either, unless you look like pop-eye. Honestly it would be better on the rear, unless you have a detroit or spool.

I have pipe insulation around my exposed filter, it's only a R factor of 2.8 but is better than nothing! Keeping things out of the wind helps, but eventually it will get just as cold. http://www.grainger.com/product/NOMACO-KFLEX-Pipe-Insulation-1WZD7?Pid=search

I get a bit more than that on dirt/gravel, many of them towing at 18K. It's just hard on tires. I have tried 3 different sets, nothing lasts the rubber is all too soft for the torque on gravel. I run very few highway miles, even fewer empty.My old man has the same issues, went the one set of toyo AT's in 16K and another in 23K. He makes less torque but tows a little heavier.I did do a little better back when I daily drove it, but not much.

This is why I am going with 19.5's. I was quoted just a little over $2,000 for 5 245/70R19.5 LRG ties that should go for at least 60K miles, if not more. I can't seem to get more than 30K useful miles out of LRE tires.

I would like to run a M-55, but they don't make an increase load for a 17" tire and while the 18" version will support 7K on the rear axle I would have to buy new wheels and if I am buying new wheels they will be 19.5's.I originally wanted to fine some OEM 18" takeoffs from a 2013+, but they changed the center cap and wheels would have to be machined for hubs, and they I couldn't rotate tires.

I should be ordering my rims today, and the tire quote I got is good for 30 days. They aren't cheap, but less than double standard tires and should last 3x as long.

I would get those 5 gals in on a day like today. I personally keep 5 gals in the garage all winter.

I put about 50 miles on it today, man is it smooth and quiet. It even shifts easier, which is impressive for the 16° weather we have (Fluidampr or balanced flywheel??). The starter tune is working good, until I turn the wick up I am not sure I have much to change.

Good info, that is a bit of difference. 6 mph is close to From Cummins Additionally That is blended fuel, not chemically winterized fuel. This shows that aerodynamic drag is greater than BTU changes. http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/docs/Secrets%20of%20Better%20Fuel%20Economy_whitepaper.pdf It all depends on location, there are plenty of times where it is unwise and plenty of times where it is 100% safe and acceptable.

It's still far cheaper than a new truck, and more power, better mileage, and the truck is setup for how I use it alot better. I would have preferred to not spend the money, but at least it's a nice upgrade.

At low speeds the drag doesn't change much, but the fluid is colder and doesn't warm up nearly as much since the power requirement is low so your back to sucking more fuel. Cold weather does have a huge effect in city/rural driving as well, just different causes. In regards to 65-75 mph, just because it's cold doesn't mean there is snow and ice on the roads, and not everyone who sees a difference in mileage lives where you do. Snow covered roads are a hit on mileage in themselves as the drag from the snow is much greater than from a bare improved surface. It is very possible to do 70 on a bone dry road a 0°F or colder. That drag coefficient of .44 seems really low considering my bullets for hunting are .444, and they appear a LOT more aerodynamic than your truck. Drag in general increases the colder it gets, some from air density, some from fluid, some from surface condition. Don't forget that the same increase in density has an effect on the frontal area and the weight of the vehicle. The weight increase is minimal, but lots of little things add up.

Sorry about the link, I didn't realize it wouldn't work. I have some in-progress photos and others on my camera, just haven't had the time to post them. It is back together, alive, and I drove it to work today.Basic rundownBalanced and BlueprintedFlywheel BalancedFluidamprMarine PistonsMarine MLS headgasket (~16.8:1)BBi Stage 1 InjectorsHamilton 178/208 CamHamilton 103# valve springsHamilton HD 24V pushrodsNew 1.3" TappetsNew water pumpNew 190° thermostatNew Vacuum pumpNew serpentine beltNew throwout bearingNew pilot bearingRadiator flushed/cleaned/testedLet me tell you this thing is SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH. Between the balanced rotating assembly, better injectors, and fluidampr it is smoother cold than it was warm. It drives great, I am taking it easy on her thou and figuring out the tune. My tune is very conservative for now until I get some miles on her and see how she reacts to the MY03 piston/bowl design vs the OE design.All in all I am quite pleased to have it back, it wasn't cheap but it should be a hell of a motor!

I understand what you guys are saying, but I don't necessarily buy it and none of us have a freezer cold enough to test it unless we try on summer fuel. But here is a way Michael, when everyone else in your neck of the woods gels and is stuck and your still flowing I'll buy it. It might work, but I just don't see it as it wasn't designed to do that. - - - Updated - - - Dose the fuel you have, or add 5 or 10 gallons of #1.

Many of the fuel specific heaters have thermostats built in. Another option is a coolant based heater, it does require the motor to be hot and running but a block heater should take care of that.

Cheap fixes are the best! Glad it was something simple.

At this point I am not sure what to attribute to the fluidampr, new fully balanced injectors, or the fully balanced motor.. but for the 3-4 minutes it was running earlier it is SMOOTH and QUIET!! The loudest thing by far is the vacuum pump.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/Video.mp4

If the transfer case is locked into 4wd then if one driveshaft is spinning then the other one has to be as well. This means that if both front or rear tires were to hit a slick spot and try to lock up then at least one tire on the opposite axle would have to stop as well, if the opposite axle has traction at least one tire won't lock up. Every 4wd rig I have owned stops/stopped better on snow/ice when in 4wd than 2wd. Even my wifes 4Runner has noticeably better braking in AWD than 2wd.

I usually drain about 1/2 gallon into a clean bucket and then do just as dripley described. If the bucket is clean then you can reuse the coolant.

I think your time/money would be better spent on making sure the fuel is properly treated, the heaters are there to fix a fuel issue. They are simply there as a backup and to help improve flow.

I did a little more reading on it, seems it was a mid MY02 change.

They will kill the batteries in short order, they are really for when the truck is already running. If it gels in the tank and filters enough to not flow for the first couple minutes then it's gelled in the injectors, pump, etc.

I didn't think 2001.5's had CAD? Or are you talking release the transfer case? I will also use 4wd for braking, it's one more thing keeping the tires from locking.

Michael has never had gelling issues with his, but I don't think that is from the 2 stroke. The 2 stroke doesn't have anything in it that would effect he parafins. His fuel is properly winterized from the pump since I don't believe he uses anything else in it.

To try and push the gel thru the filter? Seems like a good way to hurt the pump.