AH64ID

$3.45 for 87 Octane, and $3.85 for diesel.

Vent on!!Now have a beverage on ice and enjoy your fireplace!!

My guess is that it has to do with the bottom dollar, it's probably cheaper to only have one option when it was in 99% of the vehicles anyhow.How do power windows help me get drunk???

Valves are long overdue, IIRC they are due at 100k and when I did mine at 55k they needed it. Coolant is 5 year or 100k on the factory fill, your over both. Even the G05 in the jug, same as OEM, is only 150K. Water pump is probably on its last legs, but maybe not. Same with injectors. You have enough miles it's time to ask yourself if you want to do preventative or reactive maintenance on both. Power steering and brake fluid are the 2 most neglected fluids in automotive maintenance, they both need changed. I had had planned to swap my hoses out at 100k, but due to recent circumstance will be doing it at 93K. You may want to consider their age and change them. Even the youngest of 04.5s are 9 years old.

They are an alum alloy. The steel ones are Mahle, and heavy. They are not desirable in my application. The marine pistons use the same bowl as the 03-04, so any 03-04 injector works.

Will do.. I'll start another thread when I get more numbers.. .but for now I know Hamilton Cam's 178/208 idle-2600 rpm towing/mileage cam http://www.hamiltoncams.com/17pecam.html Hamilton 103# valve springs http://www.hamiltoncams.com/10spfor24vcu.html Hamilton 24V HD pushrods http://www.hamiltoncams.com/24vahedupu.html The pistons will be QSB480 pistons, I'll try to get a part number. As for injectors it all depends on how mine test.. they work great so I am hopeful.. but I have NO, NONE, ZERO, ZIP, ZILCH desire to tear into the engine for maintenance anytime in the next 100K miles (other than routine stuff).. so if they are marginal they will get replaced. Not sure what I will go with yet.. BBi Stage 1, BMS 50hp, DDP +50's? I want a little more fuel, but mainly a more efficient nozzle for mileage/smoke.

Oh it's painful at any cost.. this IS NOT why we bought a Cummins. The motor is still in the truck, hopefully this week will shed some more light. I am ordering the cam, 103# springs, and pushrods tomorrow. I'm getting a idle-2600 rpm cam, and will have a 4K rpm valve train :-) But no additional labor, and the added valve train support is a good idea with a cam, even a mild one. The pistons I am going with are the QSB pistons and they are double heat treated by Cummins and are supposed to be 30% stonger than the 03-04 piston, which is stronger than my OEM piston.. should be good there!

I have only had my damper on the motor for 18K miles, its the QSB480 damper. Its also what the 07.5-11 6.7 uses. There isn't a rubber piece to wear/fail.

The Smarty Jr updates the base software, even when removed. It leaves the most current Chrysler software on the truck.

I've never seen a labeled pump in Washington or Idaho, and will ask if there appears to be a knowledgeable person onsite. If it's SUPER cold I just dose my fuel to be safe. By January I think all stations around here are winterized, but only to the local climate.

I use Amsoil Diesel Concentrate with Cold Flow Improver.

The running for 30 seconds is normal in cold weather, and was a software update that the SJR applied to your truck.The rough sound could just be the pump priming and building pressure.

I change mine every 50K miles. But it's not "required"Lubricant Selection for NV-5600 (6-Speed ManualTransmission) — If EquippedThis transmission does not require periodic changing. Ifit becomes necessary to add fluid or change the fluid, besure to use the same lubricant or equivalent. Refer toRecommended Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts forthe correct lubricant type.

I use the Mopar winter front and I do notice a difference. My motor is also slower to warm than it was in OEM form due to a coolant filter, water-cooled turbo, high flow cam, and low backpressuwre turbo. The time to warm was decreased, but not drastically. Where the big change ow noticed is operating temp is 3-8 deg higher, it doesn't cool off as soon as I stop, and the block heater is much more efficient. In temps hovering around 0 I cannot close all 4 flaps and drove above 50 without starting to run at the upper end of the thermostat range, 205-207. I think ink the behind the grill, in front of the condenser fronts are the best. They keep most the cold air out of the engine bay, but still let some air flow over the radiator and put warm air onto the engine. They also increase IATs for improves combustion, vs having the cardboard only in front of the radiator. Thats my .02, and I will always run a front it cools off. The coldest I have seen is in the -25 range.

It is neither, synchromesh is its own fluid specification. GL-4 and GL-5 are normally 75w-90, or there acouts; whereas syncromesh is called a 5w-30.

I am hoping today or tomorrow. The shop already had a full load for the week.

The NV4500 and NV5600 use different spec fluids, the GL-4 is not rated for NV5600. I use Amsoil MTF and like the way it shifts.

I doubt there is much you can do for mpg's short of a delete and a tune.

The motor isn't out and apart yet, time will tell but it seem to have had a lot of metal go thru it. I really feel that if there is any wear it needs to be fully torn down and tanked, then put back together. There is 40K miles on the cam, and over 1800 hours. While anything is possible the shape the gear was in doesn't indicate a break from anything off the motor. It looks like something went between it and the crank gear, and the brunt was taken by the cam gear.Really wanting to see all the parts when its out.

The cam gear is stock, just the cam isn't.

Adding a larger filter to a stock 6.7 has the very real potential to set a CEL for the mass airflow sensor out of range, or something to that effect. The increased flow isn't appreciated by the computer.But on a stock truck why do you need an aftermarket filter when the OEM one is capable of more than 100hp over stock?

I plan to get some better pics when it's apart. To me the tooth does not look like a casting failure, it's chipped about 2/3 off width wise and about 7/8 of the top edge of the tooth is missing. To me that is a break from something else, looked like the R&P I had a R&P bolt go thru 10 years ago on a Toyota.

04.5-07 piston design is 100% emissions based, and is the weakest piston design in ISB history and was only used for those years and never in a QSB industrial model.

It's certainly possible, hopefully we find a smoking gun. The direction of rotation could cause it, but I still think it would have dislodged or done more damage to the gear. If that is what happened, what caused the cam gear to break?

Bio gel's much easier. The states that mandate B2-B5 only do so in warm months, from what I understand.