AH64ID

Absolutely, it a great place to start. I have never done the math and set to that exact psi, I use it as a minimum. I have yet to see an "official" tire inflation chart that has weight at "x" pressure be lower than linear. Another big one is elevation. Filling to 80 psi cold at my house, 2710', and going up to 6,000 feet and checking the pressure after a tow will often yield 95 psi hot and 83-85 psi cold. I check and adjust my pressure regularly when they are cooled, and I prefer to check them before the heat of the day as well. My only caveat, because I have seen many people do it, it look at the difference for record but don't adjust the pressure down when the tires are warm. If your seeing a 10-15% increase in pressure from ambient to pulling off the highway at or near rated load then your fine, if your seeing 20%+ you are overloaded for the pressure. Joe, First off I have to ask, why are her boobs in quotations? Was there something about them that needed them?? Okay back on topic... Your life out of the OEM's is more normal than mine; however, I highly suspect your usage was more normal as well. Just look at our fuel mileage differences, I know my truck would meet or exceed your trucks mileage with the same usage/weight. The difference in mileage alone indicates I have a higher average power production, which manifest where the rubber meets the road (couldn't resist). My dad, who drives even easier than I do, only got 16K miles out of his first OEM sized Toyo AT's before they were not winter safe (still street legal, but not elk hunting smart), and the second set only got him 23K miles. My point is towing on the roads around Idaho is murder on tires, and the extra Smarty torque isn't helping any :-). I wish it were only a small price to pay, but hey at least all roads lead to whiskey and fun. Tire wear all comes down to use, some get great mileage and some don't. Tires are one of my biggest frustrations, mainly because they don't last. It's the main reason I am looking at 19.5" LRG tires for my next set. They are built to handle higher weight and torque. As you can see they are wearing even, and have less than 1/2 of a 32" difference from outside to inside on the front from increased camber while turning.

IIRC your work trailer is small, and easy on wind. Quite the opposite of my camper. I also don't think your average tow involves any 6-8% grades, but I could be wrong. I don't recall the last time I towed more than 20 miles and didn't hit at least one grade over 5%. The gravel roads are the same, it's rare to not hit a gravel road without a grade. That kind of driving just eats tires when they are at 90-100% of max loading and have a decent amount of torque applied to them. Larger tires seem to last longer, simply because they have more rubber. My summer tires are OEM take-offs from a 2011, Michelin LTX 265/70/17. They currently have about 18K miles on them and are down to approx 38% useable tread. At the current wear rate, which should slow as they get down to 5/32", I will only get 31K miles out of the tires. I have towed 10,534 of the 19,344 miles on them. My winter tires are 255/80/17 BFG KM2's. I do a 5 tire rotation and average all 5 for tread. I have 16,834 miles on them, 2938 of towing (it was the first year of the tires and I am sure that accelerated the wear). At their current wear rate I will get 31K miles out of them before they hit 2/32. With rare exception I don't even tow with them any more and like I said that's 5 tires. I don't accelerate hard (occasionaly at higher speeds to test tunes, but nothing abusive or common), don't do burnout's, etc. I just drive on a lot of gravel with both sets, and tow on a lot of gravel with the OEM's. So how do you get the mileage? My guess is your towing is light, your gravel use is light, and you don't experience many steep grades with decent weight. Doing some really quick math, I am putting over 800 ft/lbs to the ground from 1800-2400 rpms. I can just maintain speed on a 6-7% grade in 6th at 67 mph. So that's all 800 ft/lbs, that's a lot of twisting force on the tires, especially when they are near tire weight rating. If I drop to 5th and slow to 60 the load drops, but I gain gearing to increase wheel torque, so I bet I am still pushing 750 ft/lbs plus at the tires. I suspect the new Dodge's with 850ft/lbs of flywheel torque will eat tires when towed heavy with more than their predecessors.

Interesting you have that issue with 235's on a 7" rim. I use the dirt road dust test as well.

The increased wear is really only tires that are not on the proper size rim. If the rim/rubber are matched you should be able to run extra pressure and still wear smooth. My 255/80's can run max pressure and run a flat tread with even wear between the center and sides, but my 265/70's can only go to about 60 psi empty and my 285/70's were only good to 50 psi with an empty bed. This is all mounted on my OEM 17x8" rims. About 4500 lbs on either axle and I can run the 265's at max pressure and the 285's took 5K lbs or more.

I have seen several tire inflation charts by several manufactures and they are near linear, or more weight than a linear equation giving you a safety margin if you run linear. Linear is simply a quick equation that will provide you with enough air. http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp http://toyotires.com/tires-101/load-and-inflation-tables

Tires are rated to carry 0 lbs at 0 psi and their max weight and pressure is on the sidewall. It's a linear equation to go from 0 to max load. So if a tire is rated to carry 3042lbs at 80 psi and you have 1540 lbs on the tire then the tire is at 50.6% of its rated load. 50.6% of 80psi is 40.5, or 41 psi of air required. That is the minimum air required to carry the load, typically the rolling resistance is reduced if you increase air above that point. The ideal air pressure is as much as it can take and not effect ride/traction/wear. My rear tires only need 41 psi but I run about 45-55 when empty.

Did you look on your trans?

Gear rollover is just the sound of the transmission gears at idle in N. With your OFE there is no way you don't get it, it's present on every OFE truck I have ever been around with a NV5600, and G56. It's from the OFE having bigger/stronger springs and doesn't remove some of the NVH at low load. It's those same springs that make the trans louder at low rpm use in 4th and 5th. Yes the trans fluid is hotter with additional fluid, the theory behind it was that the fluid is pulling more heat from the bearings and thus the bearing temp is lower but the fluid is hotter. I do need to pull about a qt out of mine to quiet it down thou, it's not bad but I have enough fluid to spare 1qt less.

The NV4500 didn't like towing in 5th at low rpms due to the 5th gear nut issue, but AFIK the NV5600 has never had an official comment against towing in 6th. I tow in 6th when I am above 60-65 mph (1800+ rpms) and hold 6th until I start to slow or EGT's get too high (hot days at high elevation on steep grades). Nothing wrong with using 6th with decent rpms and your not slowing.I have fast coolers on mine, mainly for the added volume of fluid. The few threads I have seen on NV5600 temp show they can get a little warm on VERY hot days, but once fast coolers are installed it's not an issue. For a 5K lb trailer I wouldn't consider them even close to needed.Last time I towed a smaller trailer (7x14 enclosed, around 15-16K GCW) I used 6th 95% of the time. It was a tow from Bozeman to Seattle and I got over 14mpg at 60-70 the whole way. The only time I didn't use 6th was when the rpms were too low, I never had power/temp issues on that trip even on 6% grades at 65-70.

I run 9 Qts in mine, but that's with the added capacity of the FAST Coolers. When I went from 7 to 9 Qts I did pick up a little extra gear rollover noise, so I plan to drop a Qt out. I think I'd rather have an auto..... - - - Updated - - - 1st is only 0.02:1 lower on a NV5600 than a NV4500. The extra gear is in-between 2nd and direct (4th on a NV4500 and 5th on a NV5600). Overdrive is 0.02:1 lower on a NV4500. Shifting at 2500 rpms a NV4500 puts you below peak torque on 2-4 shifts, and a NV5600 gives you 150-200 more rpms at the shift, meaning more torque, quicker turbo re-spool, lower EGT's and less NVH. [TABLE=width: 186] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]NV5600[/TD] [TD]NV4500[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]1st[/TD] [TD=align: right]5.63[/TD] [TD=align: right]5.61[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]2nd[/TD] [TD=align: right]3.38[/TD] [TD=align: right]3.04[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]3rd[/TD] [TD=align: right]2.04[/TD] [TD=align: right]1.67[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]4th[/TD] [TD=align: right]1.39[/TD] [TD=align: right]1.00[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]5th[/TD] [TD=align: right]1.00[/TD] [TD=align: right]0.75[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]6th[/TD] [TD=align: right]0.73[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 186] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

It sounds like you are using 04.5 as the HO designation, and that is not correct. 03-04 had a Cali, SO, HO motor and all 3 use the same injectors and nozzles. 2004 had 2 different HO motors, a early 305hp and a late 325hp. All motors from 04.5+ are called HO. The 04.5-07 motor does use a different nozzle. While there is a difference in the number of holes the main difference is spray angle. The 03-04's use a 143° spray angle and the 04.5-07's use a 124°. Use of 124°'s in a 03-04 piston will cause issues, to include knocking; however, a 143° can be used on a 04.5-07 piston with good results (time will tell, I'm not personally sold yet but it is becoming more common). I too don't really see how the CP3 is going to push air. I think some air in the return is normal, isn't the CP3 self bleeding and the return is where the air goes?

I beleive that was a 2nd Gen 24V issue. Interesting. It could be the gear drive, but don't see how that would cause the knock only when cold.

Draining the fuel at the filter is pre-filtered fuel, so do that. Are you 100% sure it was diesel and not gas?

Is there a way to verify that 03/04 injector tips were used and not 04.5/07 tips?

There is no wastegate on a 6.7, and that code is not the one that pops up with an actuator issue. Is there any warranty on the truck still?Do you know it's history? Any recent software updates? Any warranty repairs?

Any codes?What kind of knock? Is it a ping like detonation on a gasser?Does he run Cetane boost?

Yes I have read a few threads on G56's into 2nd gens, as mentioned it needs different shafts and mounts. The G56 is good up to 500-600 rwhp, but that's about it.

Absolute it 98.7% efficient at a certain micron rating, and nominal is anything less but generally 50% efficient.

I have yet to find a WIX fuel filter that has the same specs as the filter it crosses to. A 4um absolute filter becomes a 4um nominal filter for Wix, and they don't care (been told that on the phone by MULTIPLE Wix reps). They also refuse to publish/discuss their fuel/water separation rates, which raises a BIG flag. Lots of people use them, but their specs should speak volumes... they don't cut it, there is a reason they are cheaper... Their non-fuel filters seem to have better specs, and in some cases actually exceed the cross. Run what you want, but the numbers don't lie. Running a Wix in my truck would VOID my fuel system warranty (if/when I had one) as the Wix doesn't meet the minimum OEM spec. Wix is aware they don't meet the spec, and has no plans to meet it.

I don't trust/like NAPA, aka WIX, fuel filters.

It may not be your issue, but some scanners cannot clear dodge codes. On my 05 neither the UG or SGII are able to clear the codes, only my Smarty. Dodge uses a nonstandard protocol to clear codes.

While a strainer, in-line filter, will keep some debris out of the pump I would spend a little extra cash and put a f/w sep inline prior to the pump. A Baldwin FB1311 filter base with a BF1212 filter will do what you want, and more.

I just want to clarify, stock motor right?You have no reason to be backing down at 1100°. Run it up to 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary. You will find a lot more power. People tow without gauges on stock motors more often than not, and at some heavy weights. Cummins isn't a common thing to see melted on the side of the highway.I really disagree with the yellow markings on the ISSPRO gauges. The yellow should be much higher, and much shorter. You can run that motor at 1200° all day long.

Is your probe pre or post turbo?What are you running for fueling enhancements?

They are attached to my hitch, so if the hitch is on then the flaps are on.