AH64ID

I am not sure why it would say it's a good idea, it's not that it won't work it's that it doesn't work as well. It certainly is not the preferred method. A dual purpose would probably be your best bet. The Odyssey's are dual purpose and are amazing batteries. You can also get them with extra posts.

I thought you ran SW5 defaults? I know that on my truck I turned down the timing in the load load 1200-1600 rpm range from stock because stock rattles. But the rest of the map I run more timing, and the truck is much better to drive. It's also not just a couple of degrees, in some places I run more than 20° of timing over stock.

750's are factory, but I really like how my 930's crank the truck over!What 10w-30 are you running?

I have used deep cycle batteries in vehicles before, but I wouldn't do it in one of these truck and especially in the winter. Deep cycles aren't designed for the rapid flow needs of cranking, and there is a reason these trucks come with a pair of 750cca batteries. What voltage needs doesn't the vehicle provide? Lot's of folks do that these days, the OEM's are a good piece. I replaced mine at 6 years because I wanted to. That was in 2010, and they are still going strong in my buddies Ford. I 100% disagree. I have seen sealed batteries go much longer than any of the non-sealed. When they are sealed there is no where for the electrolytes to go, and they don't use a liquid battery acid. Good batteries are MUCH better than cheap serviceable batteries. The OEM's in my 05 were maintenance-free, and IIRC that's the same battery that was used in 02 that you got 10 years out of. While I wouldn't buy an Optima anymore, as their quality has seemed to gone downhill, I had an Optima that was amazing. I bought it in 1999, it has been the display model for 2-3 years but I needed a battery that day. I used it in that truck for 2 years. I then put it into my new rig (95 4runner) where I used it for winching often. I also let it die several times, one time with a light left on for 6 weeks and the voltage was 0.010v, that was in 2004. In 2005 I put it into yet another rig and used it for winching/driving until 2006 when it got parked for about a year while I was deployed. It was down around 11.5 when I got back and put a charge on it, it worked for 2 months while I got the truck ready to sell. I sold it in summer 06 and the last time I saw the guy who bought it he was still using it, that was in 2010-2011. I would like to hear of a non-maintenance free doing that. My dad also has some 11 year old 6 volts AGM's that he uses once a year and they work like new, where the non-sealed versions only last about 4-5 years with similar use.

Are any of you guys considering buy it?I would at least download UDC, it's free, and see what it's about.

Okay, so this is going to be a quick lesson on checking your peak timing. The purpose in this is to make sure you don't have too much timing for your fuel. It's possible to have a low timing number, say 16° but not have enough fuel for that to be optimal. A 50:50 split (BTDC/ATDC) seems to work good for heavier fueling. A little more if you are really trying to squeeze every hp out, maybe 51-52 BTDC or a little less if you don't want quite as much piston heat, 45-48. Those are rough numbers I have played with, but motor mods will have effects as well. With the way the stock maps are laid out it's pretty easy to check 100% load timing, a lot more difficult to check lower loads. But with some common sense you can do a lot just knowing what peak timing should be. So lets look at a stock 04.5-07 tune. For this lesson we will leave duration and pressure stock, just messing with timing. This is a stock duration map with additional labels. What's important to note is that rpms is really load and load is pressure. 100% load is the only one that isn't appox, it's really 100% load. The rest are for reference to an OBDII reader and not necessarily to match the load on the side of the timing/pressure table (which is why anything but 100% is harder to calculate). When the ECM goes to calculate the desired pulse width (injector open time) it looks at 2 tables. Pressure and duration, with pressure being first. Lets calculate the desired peak timing at 4 rpms, 2000, 2400, 3000, 3200. So we first reference the pressure table. At 2000 rpms and 100% load the pressure is 20,885 psi. We then go to the duration table (one below with labels). You will notice that 20,885 is not listed on the left column, so now we have to do some math. There is a 23,206 row and a 20,305 row, with 2,901 psi between them. 20,885 is 550 psi above 20,305 and 550/2901 is 19%. The next thing we look at is duration at 100% load. At 20,305 the duration is 2156us and at 23,206 it's 2005us, with a 151us difference. You will notice that as pressure increases the duration decreases for a given load, this is because the pressure forces the desired fuel out faster. So we now take our 19% difference from the pressure and multiply it by 151 for 29us difference. We subtract that 29us from 2156us. This gives us a pulse width of 2127us. So know we know how long the injector is going to be open for we can figure out when to start the injection event. A crankshaft has 360° of rotation, and by using rpm's we can calculate how long it takes to go 1° at any given rpm. Lets start with 2000 rpms. 2000 rpms is 33.33 rotations per second, multiplied by 360° gives us 12,000 deg/sec. A microseconds (us) is 1,000,000th of a second, so 1,000,000 divided by 12,000 gives us 83us per 1° of rotation. Next you take the total injector open time, 2127us, and divide it by 83. That gives us 25.6° of total injector open time. Let's say we want a 50:50 split of BTDC/ATDC. Multiply 25.6 by 0.5 and you get 12.8°. Thus we would set our timing at 100% load, 2000 rpms at 12.8°. Now lets look at 2400 rpms on the stock tables. Commanded pressure is 22,336. Since 22,336 falls between row's on the duration chart we have to do the math again. 22,336-20,305= 2031. 2031/2901=70% . At 20,305 the duration is 2156us and at 23,206 it's 2005us, with a 151us difference. .70*151= 105us. 2156-105=2051us. At 2,400 rpms it takes 69us per 1° of rotation. 2051/69=29.7° of injector open time. Same thing 29.7*0.5=14.9° of timing. Now lets look at 3,000 rpms. Commanded pressure is 23,207 (same as 23,206), which happens to be one of the columns on the chart so no math is needed. 23,206 and 100% load is 2005us. At 3,000 rpms it takes 56us for 1° of rotation. 2005/56=35.8°. 35.8°*.5= 17.9°. Now lets look at 3,200 rpms. Commanded pressure is 23,207, which happens to be one of the columns on the chart so no math is needed. 23,206 and 100% load is 2005us. At 3,200 rpms it takes 52us for 1° of rotation. 2005/52=38.5°. 38.5°*.5= 19.3°. Pay close attention to the 3,000 and 3,200.. the pulse width is the same, but the injector open time is just under 3° longer at 3,200 due to the increased speed of the crankshaft. So now you are able to calculate what your peak timing should be based on pressure/duration tables and a given rpm. When the load is less than 100% you need to have less timing than 100% load, or you will be injecting all the fuel much sooner and that can lead to increased piston heat and cylinder pressure. A calculator is simply a starting point, not an ending point. You may or may not have to adjust your timing values from what calc gives you. It's a reference and a guide, not a rule.

Not sure, but you will like it!

I haven't updated this in a while.. Here are some past updates... From 9/10/12 So it's been a while since I really gave any update, other than the dyno graph. Truth is that I didn't adjust my tuning for 2 months. I was very happy with it. It met all of my goals for how I was using it. Last week I did some towing and realized I needed to tweak the settings in the 35-55% load area. I was towing across Idaho at 2K rpms, OD, at 18K GCW (11' tall TT) into a 20-30 mph headwind on a 90° day. I realize that sustained operation in that load range gave me slightly higher EGT's than expected. I know a few degrees comes from the manifold blankets, but I was at 1000-1150° the whole time, and may have cooled off to 900° on the few shallow down-grades. I didn't have my laptop with me, but took some mental notes. On the return trip the temp was about 15° cooler, and I didn't have a head wind and the load was lower, and the temps where where I expected them to be. I know I am not going to be able to move that weight at those speeds at 900-1000° with a headwind, but wanted to make a small tweak. I went back to my timing tables and thought I could add a little and see what happened. I had ran more timing previously and it hazed a little too much, but this time I tried even more. Still very mild. I haven't hooked up the trailer yet, but in the 30-50% load my EGT's are down a little, boost is similar, and the haze is similar to the more retarded setting. I get some haze in the "passing" region because the EGT's are low and the turbine isn't as efficient. When towing there is zero haze at those loads because there is more heat to be retained in the turbine. I also got to looking at my cruise section of the timing table. I think there was a little room to improve on mpgs. This morning driving to work I did some testing with the lie-o-meter. I have been using 1600 rpms as the start of my "cruise/economy" region. I set the cruise at 1400 rpms on a flat road and reset the lie-o-meter, it instantly read ±38 mpgs, and settled in the 34 range. I then accelerated to 1600 rpms and did the same thing. It instantly read ±29 mpg and settled at ±28. I realize it's not 100% accurate, but 10 mpg difference for 3-4 mph? I thought maybe I had too much timing in the cruise region and was working against myself. I retarded the timing a bit and went back out. This time the 1400 reading was ±37 and the 1600 was ±36. So I think I am on the right track. The timing is still advanced for economy, but not so much that I am working against myself. I have my first empty highway run for about 110 miles this afternoon, so time will tell. I am coming out of towing season, so I won't really know if I like this new 35-55% region for a while, but that's tuning for you. I also spent last week driving around Yellowstone. The elevation is 6400-8800. I was there last year and had to be very careful not to make a LOT of smoke on the standard Smarty Jr SW3 tune. This year there was hardly any, even if I got on it (kids like to hear the turbo whistle) the smoke was no where near as think and cleared very quick. The only difference from last year to this year is the UDC and a GDP Air Boss/Grid Delete. I would guess most of the smoke, or lack thereof, is the tuning. I did get 18.9 mpg driving around Yellowstone for the week, at about 9000 lbs. I got about 18.0 last year. From 11/17/12 Another update... I did that 110 mile run at 70-80 and got 19.2, so I think backing the timing off a little really helped. I have since bumped it back a tiny tiny bit and the load went down, so I am happy. I have still been messing with that 30-50% load area, trying to find a good timing for spool, but also one I can hold sustained when towing and not have too hot of EGT's. I won't hook the trailer up again for a few months but I am pretty happy with how it works now. EGT's are down a little and no increase in spool time. I have also decided to upgrade to a Smarty Sr. I don't want/need any more power than I am making now, but I really don't like the OEM rail pressure map. I think it should be smoother, and not have peaks and valleys in the middle of it. A smoother rail pressure map means smoother timing, less rapid FCA changes, pressure changes, etc. Since I built my own timing calculator I have already got a tune ready to plug into UDC when the Sr shows up. It keeps the same duration, and relative timing that I have now, but a very different rail pressure map. I am curious how it will effect everything. From 11/17/12 Timing is a function of pulse width (duration) and rpm. Each load %age and rpm should have a different timing value. Looking at some of the UDC samples timing is the same from 68.9% thru 100%. In a racing application that may be okay as they go from 20% to 100%, and don't spend much time between 70% and 90%, but if you tow I don't think flat timing is good. The pulse width at 70% is a lot shorter than WOT, so the effective timing is much greater, so at 70% load you will have higher piston temps, higher cylinder pressure, etc than at 100% load. Each load needs it's own timing. As pulse width increases timing must increase to keep the same relative (% before TDC and % after TDC) timing. On my truck that high timing from 1000-1400 really is noisy. I dropped it way back. I don't have my Dongle with me, but I recall being around -3° at 12.6% load at 1000 rpms. Generally speaking 1000-1400 (0-50% load) is spool region , this is the only place on my timing map I run less timing than the factory. Above 50% load here isn't obtained often, but I generally advance from 50% to WOT a few degrees. 1600-2400 0-30% is the cruise region, mainly up thru 25%, I use 25.1 as a transition and am completely out of the cruise timing at 31.4%. Now you are in the acceleration/spool/hill mode. I back the timing off to reduce piston temp, increase exhaust volume for turbo spooling, and still make good power. This is the hardest part to tune (32.4-100) because what works for spool may not be good for towing a trailer at 40% load for hours on end, so you have to mess with it to find the best spot. At these rpms the entire timing map can be used, especially if you tow. 2600-redline, this is the passing, racing, playing zone. My low load timing is not increased here (but how often are you 10-50% load in these rpms, this is the zone where you will be dumping fuel and need the power. Timing is critical because of piston speed, it's easy to go too far or too little. With stock duration/pressure I would stick to about 19° max at WOT/3200 and 22° max at WOT/3500. One last thing, on the duration map Marco has rpms/load as the labels. That should be rail pressure and volume, as the duration map has nothing to do with rpms. The ECM uses rail pressure and desired fuel (load) to determine the pulse width. So that 100% 3600 rpm block can be applied at much less than 3600 rpms. This is needed if you create your own timing calculator. IMHO it should look like this... Load on top, pressure on left. So at 100% load and 23,206 (peak OEM rail pressure) the injector is open for 2005 micro seconds. The way a timing calculator works is you take that 2005 micro seconds, the deg/sec of the crank, and when you want to inject the fuel (say 50% before TDC/50% after TDC) and you get the timing needed. So at 2000 rpms it take 83us to go 1°. So 1002.5/83 is 12.07, or 12.1° of timing is what you need. At 3000 rpms it only takes 56us to go 1°, so you need 17.9° to get the same 50% of fuel injected BTDC. Obviously the duration map is not all inclusive, so you will have to do the same extrapolation the ECM does if you want to calculate all your timing. You can calculate all the timing, some of it (I would work 100% load at a minimum so you know where you should max), or none of it... I don't think you can create a mash it without smoke tune that is reasonable on UDC, simply because we don't have access to the boost/fuel limiter table. So the base tune may allow more fuel than we can burn smoke-free, and mashing will do that. But you can play with your torque management to get it there. I also found reducing the PoD to 85 really helped and didn't effect power at all. Even aggressive driving I am black smoke free (just a haze), but if I go from 20% to 100% throttle in an instant than I roll some serious coal. Happy tuning.... Here is a timing map I made (and have severely altered) but it gives you a GENERAL idea of flow. Numbers are irrelevant without knowing pressure/duration. From 11/22/12 Well I got my Smarty Sr yesterday, so instead of sleeping I stared at UDC all night. I had already built a tune in the timing calculator, so I just had to copy it over (really want a copy/paste function). I made some minor tweaks once I could see it in the UDC map (Excel graphs aren't as easy to read/manipulate) and it's done. With my new rail pressure map the timing map is smother. Here is the timing with the stock pressure. Here is my current timing, as you can see less minor peaks within the map, all based on pressure. As I have said before without knowing what my pressure/duration tables look like the timing numbers are irrelevant.

Sometimes they are easier, sometimes they are not. There is somthing to be said for no stopping or slowing thru a town. Whenever you slow down at least one kid want's out. We do both, but I won't drive 55-60 in a 75 when the weather is good.

You don't have kids do you :-) Safety is another reason, going 20mph below the average speed is not safe, it's worth a few bucks in diesel to me.

Oh yeah I agree! I will do 68-70, but that's it. Smaller trailers I would go faster, but not with my TT.

Check the oil fill cap, it can leak out under the plastic valve cover and be hard to see. But that much oil is probably going out the turbo. But you can check the rings by removing the oil cap with the engine running, how much pressure comes out the fill port?

The 65's already have 24% more CCA's.

I spoke with an ISP Trooper yesterday on the subject. He had never heard of a towing specific speed limit. A triple axle RV only has the speed limit if he is over 26K. The bold OR you reference is still talking about axles. It is perfectly legal to go 75 (in a posted 75 zone) with 5 axles at a GCW of 25K.

The grid heater works when the intake manifold temp is below 66°. I don't use a grid heater in the summer and start fine down to 25°, and Cummins states the ISB is rated to start with no aids until 10°F. The grid heater is mainly for emissions, and above freezing is not needed. I bypass mine all the time, don't wait for it, and it always starts instantly.

The grid heater heat's up more than that inside, but I am not surprised it's such a low temp outside. It does cycle after the truck is started, for up to 2 minutes or 18 mph, whichever occurs first. http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/media/heatergrid

I get 9.5-14 towing my 8K TT, depending on speed. ~10 at 70, and increases from there. Do you have a reference (official) for the 65 mph towing limit in Idaho? According to a source at ISP there is no separate speed limit for towing in Idaho. The only lower limit is if your 5 or more axles, and over 26K lbs then it's 65. But your legally allowed to tow at the posted limit with any trailer that doesn't make you a "truck". - - - Updated - - - Found this.. no speed limit when towing other than listed above. http://legislature.idaho.gov/idstat/Title49/T49CH6SECT49-654.htm

Glad to see you on this site!Yes they are great batteries.

The AFE filter is not worth running, plain and simple. Put the Baldwin in your truck it's the only filter to exceed cummins specs. The AFE meets them on filtration specs, doesn't exceed, and doesn't filter water.

Please don't take this comment as me being a Richard... Get that filter OUT of your truck. I don't have the spec's in front of me, but if memory serves (and it usually does on filters) it's 3um nominal and 7um absolute, that's what the OEM filter is rated at. Here is the kicker, the AFE filter is not rated for f/w separation so it's WORSE than stock. Simply put; the best, and only IMHO, filter to run in the OEM canister is the Baldwin PF7977. It's 5um absolute and meets/exceeds the OEM specs on f/w separation. Second to that is OEM or the Donaldson replacement. Aside from those 3 filters..well it's like 2 boys in a hot tub....WRONG!!! I also highly suggest an additional filter, or two, to help in f/w separation and final filtration. The products sold by Glacier Diesel are my favorite.

The ticking noise you heard is the injectors (1&6 I think) firing to purge the rail of air, it's normal and happens every time you sit with the key on and engine off. What filter did you install, and where?Another long shot is the pressure relief valve.

Typically when 1 or 2 injectors go out their matched pair 1/6, 5/2, 3/4 is soon to follow. 10 years of CR maintenance has taught most mechanics to replace/repair all 6 at once.

I wouldn't be shocked at all to see it black that quick.. but it's something I have wondered about for years, so I finally broke down and did it. I really think the OEM retarded timing is the main culprit. Plenty of the stock injection event is outside the bowl. Not all of that was removed with the standard smarty timing, but I think my timing keeps it in the bowl now. But not holding my breath.

I hope a LONG time.. Between the physical mods and bypass I don't see why it can't stay clean... but???

So I changed my oil again today, and while on a drive to get it hot I stopped about 2 minutes after the thermostat opened and checked idle pressure, it was 30. I then drove another 8 miles and stopped and idle pressure was 22.. so yes the oil does take longer to get warm than the coolant.