AH64ID

Take a look at stock timing on a 04.5-07 CR. It's VERY retarded. This is done 100% for emissions, not for optimal timing. Now look at this... It's more optimized for performance/economy, which means a higher cylinder pressure and worse emissions, but uses less fuel. It's not what I am running, but not too far from it.

It is a slow process. I had a great tune on my 7th try, and then wanted to see some effects of a few tweaks, now I am on my 13th tune. All it great, just minor stuff at this point. There will always be idiots!

Open the oil fill cap and rest it on the hole with the motor running. Is there a lot of pressure?Heavy towing lately?I know Micheal doesn't think so, but my exhaust was stickier when I ran a low dose of 2-stroke on my 05. It's back to normal soot now that I don't run it.

Its a lot more than any other "custom" tune out there. Say at mild acceleration your getting too much smoke and slow spool from 1200-1800 rpms. You can adjust the parameters for that area to help you spool quicker. You can then adjust 1700-2400 rpms and light load for better empty mileage, but get back into a good parameter for towing and hill climbing. Or if your getting a hair too much fuel WOT from 2800-3000 you can dial that back, etc. Take a look at the UDC software demo on the MADS website.A juice just manipulates the stock signal, this creates an all new stock signal. No tricking the VP44, or anything else. If you want 22° of timing at 2400 rpms from 80%-100% throttle you can have it.

The software I have been using to write my own timing/duration tune for my truck is going to be made available for the VP crowd as well. You can fine tune for mods and power goals.

The specific pressure has more to do with the pump than the filter, but most filters are full with a ~4 psid across the media. So if you hit 10.5 WOT now, at 8.5 I would change the filter.

Just to clarify, peak pressure before TDC is bad, timing before TDC isn't bad. Peak pressure should occur about 15° ADC, per some older P7100 Cummins info, for best performance/economy. Things like fuel pressure, rpm, cylinder temp, and boost all effect the rate of ignition. But nearly all fuel starts injecting prior to TDC. Doing some reading a few months back on EFI Live stuff they have a timing calculator that uses piston speed, duration, and rail pressure to let you decide the timing you want. You put in how much fuel you want injected before and after TDC and it gives you the timing. So if want 50% of the fuel before and 50% after it would tell you what timing to run. Just becuase 50% of the fuel injects before TDC doesn't mean you will get peak pressure prior to TDC. To meet emissions nearly all of the fuel is injected ATDC on the 04.5-07 motor, but there is a small rpm/load band where ALL of the fuel is injected prior to TDC.

Good info. I think the VP will be a pretty hot pump here in the near future when UDC is released for it. UDC for the CR is 1st on the list, but it will hit the VP community. Think about the timing/duration possibilities!

Congrats! I have yet to break 20 in my truck, thou I know it could do it. The reason I haven't is I don't get into the driving profile in it very often, if ever. I don't use it as a DD anymore, so most the trips are loaded or towing. The few trips where we do road trip we have the kids, so the difference in 65-68 and 75 over 500 miles is enough to warrant the few extra bucks! I could pretty easily break 19 when it was my DD to/from work with smart driving. I now have many more efficiency mods, just haven't tried. Elevation also plays a role. There is a mountain pass almost any direction I go, and even if there isn't there are still climbs along the way.

What's the update.. and where are the pics?

The only time the end links may become an issue is backing up while on back roads, etc. As far as foreword driving the bar is at the mid point of the axle, and the lowest point is the mounting brackets which are about the same as the shock mounts. I have bumped my axle once in the last 5 years on a small rock on a FS road, so I am not too worried about it.

With a pressure gauge I will run my filter for 30K miles, 18 months, or until I get a pressure drop. The pressure drop is pump dependent. I go to about 2 psi on my setup, on a AD or FASS it would be 2-3 psi below the new filter WOT/rated rpm pressure.

I have been casually following it for a while now. I think it "should" work on any ISB with a pressure adjustable exhaust brake, i.e. not a fixed orifice like the Jacobs.

Pics of the volt meter, and hard start cap to follow.. But probably be next weekend. I should also get the hi/low switch for the home thermostat and pressure tank installed next weekend.

I came out of the woods a bit heavy yesterday. I left the 4wheeler at home and we went to get a little wood. We were planning on about 1/2 a chord, and ended up with a shy 2/3 of a chord. We hit a scale on the way back home and the truck was just over 12,000 lbs and the camper was at 6,600 (still hooked up). The rear axle was sitting at 7400 lbs, whoops!! I knew we were heavy so I started the day at 80 psi in the rear tires, and drove slow, never got above 53. I didn't expect the wood to be quite that heavy, but it was. Anyways, aside from overloading my rear tires, the truck handled amazing. It did feel heavy, but no crazy sway or anything. There was a slight bounce on rough sections, very very slight, that could have been the tires or from having a little too much air in the bags. I had the bags at 60 psi, and was about 1/2" higher than normal so could have dropped then to 50ish, but didn't as we weren't far from home. Really liking the sway-bar. Time will tell for sure. It stands to reason that it could be, but it still has 3,500 lbs on the rear tires and I run soft tires in the winter.

My China package arrived yesterday as well. Looks like a decent unit. Not sure if I will make it permanently on, or just on a switch, or leave it as is.

I think I would go with a set of RV 275's and see how it goes. If you can pull the grade on 2 with better EGT's and same speed/boost I would do that. I don't know about the module, but it seems like 2 or 3 is better for towing.

I may have missed it, but what kind of boost do you build?

I would do a 6 month grease. It may only take 1 squirt vs 5, but you know it's fresh.

I'll put it here for the masses. I googled HE351 and S472 compressor MAPs for the best PR ratio's. Which is why that is peak airflow, and that's compressor potential, the turbine plays a role in total effectiveness. So pressure at sea level is 14.7 psia (ambient) and 0 psig (gauge). A compressor works with ambient pressure. The widest part of the S472 MAP is at a 2.75 PR, meaning it will compress the air 2.75 times. So 2.75*14.7 (psia) gets us 40.4 psia output, now subtract the input pressure (14.7) and you have 25.7 psig. Now when you get into compounds the secondary works with psia again, so were back at 40.4*3.0 = 121 psia output, subtract 40.4 and we are at 80.8 psig. The other numbers are derived the same by looking at the compressor map and picking PR's that will have good flow/spool, which is why it's not quite even. Who is Carl, and what wastegate is he talking about at the 600hp level, S472 or HE351?

You will move the most air at a 2.75 PR out of the S472 and about 3:1 out of the HE351, so at sea level your moving max air at 25 out of the primary and 80 total. Thou I think most peak them at about 60 psi based on turbine flow. But at 45 psi of boost (you need fuel :-), I would run about 18-20 psi out of the primary and that puts the primary at 2.3:1 and secondary at 1.72:1, where both are very effecient. You could tune the primary to run a little less, but I think you want it spooled up a little better for quicker response when towing thru rolling hills. I would try running unregulated air to the WG on the HE351 and see what it does once you get 2 boost gauges. Did you enlarge the WG opening on the 351?

Those are the reasons I want a set, and the 2LO option!Nice thing about them is you can use 4wd with them unlocked to lube it all on the dry pavement.

I am curious how you like it. I did some reading yesterday, and other than Mile Marker hubs (nothing against them, I just like Warn) the spyntech is what I would buy if I had to make the purchase today.

DP changes under heavy throttle because the WG on the primary opens sooner. If your running your WG at 35 psi on a turbo as a single you will have 100% of the exhaust going thru the turbine wheel and will be at peak drive pressure. Which can exceed 50 psi on a HE351. Now put that turbo into twins and the WG opens much sooner. I am not sure how you have it setup, but some open the secondary WG on total boost, others on primary boost. Either way the WG usually opens about the time the primary starts to light and puts more flow to the primary. So now at 35 psi the secondary WG is open, and both turbo's are in the low-mid part of the MAP just puttin along. Cruise DP is unaffected, which is where efficiency comes to play. Are you running 2 boost gauges? They are a small and a large S300, similar to what BD uses for it's tow twins. QUICK spooling, and supports about as much HP as the cooling system can support sustained.

The bottom turbo isn't the expensive part in twins, generally, it's the piping. Hybrid's are good, HX35 turbine with a HX40 comp wheel. Pretty much like a good turbined HE351. When talking twins it's about the pressure ratio, not total pressure. Let me explain, simple generic terms. Desired manifold pressure is 50 psi. You want each turbo to run in the broadest part of it's map. This will provide the coolest intake charge. For S&G I'll explain with the twins I want to run. My GT3782R over a GT4294R. I would want to push about 4.2: pressure ratio peak. The GT3782R is broadest at 2.5:1 and the GT4294R at about 2.6:1. So using those numbers and sea level pressure..Pressure out of primary (14.7*2.6-14.7) 24 psig, which gives 38 psia into the secondary, which comes out at 57 psi (38*2.5-38). So if you look just at the PR, the seconadry is only working as hard as it would as a single pushing 22 psi. That is far more boost than I would need, but I would be able to efficiently move 30-85 lb/min which would cool 450 rwhp more than adequately. The one thing about twins is they generally build more pressure than is needed for the hp, hence the reason they run so cool. I really only would need about 35 psi to stay cool at 450 rwhp, so think how cool I would run at 50-55 psi.