AH64ID

Yeah the way the OEM timing is above and below 2000's it's evident that Dodge want's you to pull hills over 2K rpms. One of the things I want to do with UDC is remove that 2000 rpm power point. I am not sure if it causes the rattle, but I can tell you that changing turbo's eliminated all of my timing rattle, until I added the 6.7 damper (which quieted the engine so now I hear a trace of rattle again).

If you want to modify your timing I would get a Smarty Jr and set it on SW1 TM2, TQ1. That is 100% stock fueling with better timing.

I'll try to elaborate more tomorrow, but the filtered pumps aren't generally all they are advertised to be, and it's pretty easy to exceed their ratings (thou they are better than they were a few years ago). The Mopar kit is okay, and it's big perk is the heater, but again not hard to match. I'm short on time tonight, but I'll post some spec's tomorrow. --- Update to the previous post... Alright, I have a few minutes to go into a little more detail. Essentially the VP,P-Pump,VE trucks are not nearly as sensitive to fuel as the CR trucks are, so if you build anything non-CR with a CR acceptable fuel system you are in killer shape. The goal is to have at least 95% free water removal, 95% emulsified water removal, and 5um absolute filtration. The AD does not meet this out of the box, but can be made to (under most circumstances). The FASS Platinum meets this, as does the Titanium, the FASS HD is thought to meet this, but is hard to confirm as the final filter is a hydraulic filter and is rated multi-pass and not single pass like a fuel filter should be. The AD can have the f/w sep filter changed and meet the f/w sep goals up thru 120 GPH, and is 5um up thru 60 GPH, so when WOT, or towing, your run the risk of exceeding your flow rating on your filters with a 150 GPH pump, and even a 100 GPH pump with the OE 5um filter. There aren't any filters that match the 150 GPH rating, but under most conditions the pumps FASS/AD are not pushing anywhere near that much fuel. Personally I would build a system based on the needs of your motor and not going bigger just because you can. Clear as mud?

I ran Cetane boost for about 8K miles and developed a nasty knock, stopped using Cetane boost and stopped knocking. I don't feel it was a coincidence as the knock hasn't returned in 20 months, and I stopped using Cetane boost 21 months ago. Well, that's 99% true. I was running a 7 point bump for that time frame and will on occasion run about a 3 point bump, but it hasn't produced the knock. I only do it 2-3 times a year, and only on well thought out tanks. Cetane will help low load and low temp ignition, and improve the quality of combustion in those low load/low temp instances. I used it for the week or so I spend at elk camp where I won't break 20 mph in 300 miles, and never more than 7 miles at a stretch, and it seems to help the motor warm up a little better and mileage isn't effected in that kind of driving. I will also use it for winter tanks where I expect to spend a lot of time idling to keep the cab warm for the kiddo's, i.e back road sledding/camping/x-mas tree hunting trips. It's not always super cold, but idling for a couple hours at 30° isn't the best either, so a little more Cetane is a good thing. One must also consider that the Cetane requirement from Cummins is different for above and below 32°F.99% of the time I am in the same boat as Michael, but there are a few times when it's actually a good idea.Higher cylinder pressure is not always best (think HG), it's just a by-product of additional, or proper, fuel/air/timing. More powerful/effecient motors do have more cylinder pressure, but they also have more emissions from the pressure. It is possible to make more torque with less pressure, it just takes more fuel. The pressure doesn't create the torque, the length and timing of the burn does (more heat (aka energy) being absorbed by the piston and not flowing out the exhaust valve). Additionally higher BTU's means less fuel is needed to make the same hp. So if one Cetane has 120K BTU's it can make 47.15 HP, but another has 110K BTU's and only makes 43.22 hp. If it takes 50 hp to go 60 mph, the Cetane that makes 120K BTU's is burning less fuel per hour, and thus better mileage. On the other side of it, if the motor can push 35 GPH thru the injectors it's also making more power.

I have towed above the 65 mph limit on my ST tires for quite a few miles, mainly because I didn't realize they were only rated at 65. But I will say I wasn't even close to max load, and I was also at max air. I also never really exceeded 72, but have held 70-72 for hours on end without an issue. All 3 of my flats were low speed rock punctures.

We use a card that gives us 4% up to $6,000, back on fuel. Last year we went over it by $174, so made out pretty good.

As a 90% rule rail pressure increases with load, not decreases. Your understanding is correct, but your over simplifying it. There are far more factors than just pressure, you have timing/duration/# of events to deal with as well. But in as few words as possible, the overhead is off because they screwed up the programming of it.

Yeah it's steep there for a little bit.

Your comments are the first I have ever heard rail pressure is used for the lie-o-meter. (you did call it a lie-o-meter, so I know you know it's false). The ECM uses the mm3 injected to determine fuel flow. Based on load/rpm the engine selects from its tables to determine how much fuel it needs to inject, then determines pressure/timing/duration as well. The ECM says hey, were injecting 130mm3 of fuel right now, that's "x" GPH. The lie-o-meter is off because of programming. Mine was accurate, ish, thru about 12K miles, then it got progressively worse, and no averages 17% off, but varies from 8% to 34% off based on something, maybe the moon phase? You can't just say, hey mine is 2mpg off because the error changes, and is a percentage not a mpg value off.

Went camping this weekend, and pulling up the grade from the river was STEEP! I was thinking of dorkweed's comments last year about EGT's in 3rd gear. The pull is a little more than a mile, but the last .6 miles is where the fun is. It starts off slow, but about 1/4 mile in your at 8% and then it jumps to 10 and all the way to a 20% grade at the top. The average is 17.4%. It's low, 2100 at the bottom and 3000 at the top and the temps were in teh 60's. I did the steep part in 3rd gear, 2200 rpms, 15 psi of boost and 1000°-1100°. I have never worked my truck that hard in 3rd gear. I figure were had a GCW of 16.5K (need to get the new camper on a scale). It's times like that I am really glad I have the blankets on the manifold/turbo becuase otherwise the enigne bay would have been a LOT hotter. It was also cool to hit the 20% section and give it some go juice (75% at most), the boost went up to 30, the EGT's peaked at 1150° and she shot to redline in a blink of an eye.

I had the info at one point, but that sounds right. It was far less than expected!

The credit card perks are too nice not to use. Just in the last 3 months we have gotten over $1800 in rewards, free money!

There was a flash to fix "long" cranking on the 05-06 models, you may want to find out if that has been done. With the dynamic timing of a CR, and the minute adjustment of the tone ring I doubt timing would effect the starting. The bleed down issue is internal to the injector, as the rail pressure drops to 0 within seconds of shutdown on any rig. If you do end up going down the injector road I would pull all 6 and send them off to a company like DDP for testing. With 106K miles you don't want to fix/check just one.

Yeah, we have been paying double on the truck for a while and now shifting that payment to the 2nd on our house. I personally don't mind buying some things on credit, but haven't paid an interest charge on a credit card in a decade. We also haven't carried any loan full term, ever. Once the 2nd it paid off it will go to the bank for the next rig to purchase, if I can talk the wife into the plan I have well be able to put at least 1/2 down when she needs a new rig.

That's a really good price, dare I say cheap! Did you call places like DDP to do cross-pricing?

I don't have a vehicle payment!It all started just before I turned 16 and bought a '66 T-Bird from my grandfather, and it ended at 9:53 this morning when I passed the last Benjamin to the clerk at the bank to pay the truck off!It's a nice feeling.

Pressure is always varying in the CR world, it's 100% controlled by the ECM (okay, not 100% if your demanding more fuel than you can move, or modified and flow more at idle).The ECM moves what is called the FCA (fuel control actuator) which meters the fuel into the CP3, and thus the output pressure. Most tuners (not all) will modify this in one way or another. I personally would like to smooth it, yet maintain stock peak pressure for reliability and longevity. On a CR you have 100% (same 100%) control over timing/pressure/duration as none of it is pure mechanical, and there are no pop pressures. Here is an example of one CR pressure map.

It's about the same on a HPCR. 50's provide an increase, 90's no change, and 90+ a decrease... again as a generalization.

The axle is the same on a SRW and DRW, and rated at 10,912 by AAM so that has nothing to do with RAWR, the RAWR comes from springs/frame/tires (SRW only).

I haven't seen a DRW MC, but I doubt it has a SRW pack with the full 9350 lb rating.

After some measuring and researching I put a pair of 12V batteries in the trailer this afternoon. I have 2 great 6V's in the garage, but the design of this camper doesn't allow for their height. In fact I had to massage the Group 24 cases to get 2 of them on the tongue, it's TIGHT!The trailer came with a AC Delco Group 24 Dual Purpose, estimated at 70-73 Amp hours, not bad for a group 24, many of then are just 60 Amp hours; however, after having 225 amp hours last summer I wanted a little more than 70! I started doing research and there are only a few Group 24's that offer 85 amp hours, the most I found. The Costco's, and a few other $$$ brands. I decided to go with the Costco's, they are only $67/ea and are a deep cycle only, whereas many of the Group 24's are labeled dual purpose. I personally think the deep cycle's will be better deep cycles. They are not maintenance free, but with our usage and the price I can live with that. I was able to find a pair at the Boise Costco with 3/12 manufacture stickers on them, so I grabbed them.So now I am packing 170 amp hours, vs the 73 that it came with. I am only 75% of what I had last year, but to be honest we never needed all of them and I found myself running the generator every trip just to run it. In 29 nights of camping I think the batteries only demanded I run the generator once or twice, so I am pretty sure 170 amp hours will work, and the new TT has a 10w solar panel, which isn't much but it does do something. As far as other mods, my dad ordered a couple of the accumulators and will be bringing mine with him when he comes to visit next week. We ended up with the 2 gallon version. There is room for the 4 gallon, but the 2 gallon will work better with the 3GPM water pump. I need to order the capacitor, but I am still 1 generator short for running the a/c and am not really thinking about a/c stuff yet. I did get a couple of the camco vent covers installed on Monday. I had the Max Air's on my previous TT, but the camco's are 1/2 the price so I couldn't pass them up. I got them for "free" with the gift certificate that came with the trailer purchase. The vent covers are great, you can leave the vent open year round and not worry about snow/rain entering the trailer.

But this is not the case with the MC DRW as it doesn't have the same GVWR as non MC DRW's. If it had the same 12,300 GVWR then yes this would be true, but it's GVWR is only 10,500, so Ram is leaving 1,800lbs on the table right there. A DRW MC is within 100lbs of the same weight as a CC DRW.

Mine has never chirped, isn't that a belt issue?

Do you subscribe to TDR? Issue 73 had a great article on it. I am not sure they wear out in a specific time, but I do believe it's an "inspect" item at the 100K mile service.

It's on. The install took a little more than 2 hours, and was pretty simple. The hardest part was getting the 36mm fan nut loose. Once that was off the fan/shroud came out easily, then I removed the belt (still in like new shape after 4.5 years and 65K miles), and finally the OEM damper. With my truck being a manual I was able to use the trans as a barring device. In 6th gear you get a little resistance and then the crank stops turning. It's amazing how little force the OEM damper is held on with, but then again these are 3200 rpm motors, not 6500 rpm V8's. With the stock parts off I took a few comparison pics and then got back to work putting it together. The 6.7 unit is taller, wider, and MUCH heavier. The box for the 6.7 damper states 35 lbs and I believe it, I would put the 5.9 one in the 15-20 range and will weigh it to find out. I put a little never-seize on the mating surface of the crank, and slipped the new one on. The dowel pin for proper TDC alignment was a little tight so I had to use the 4 bolts to tighten it on, the torqued to 30 ft/lbs, and finally added 60° to each bolt and went on to install the new fan pulley. The 6.7 fan pulley is only different in that it allows for the larger damper, and belt installation without having to pull the damper. Once the pulley and belt were installed I started the truck up without the fan/shroud to take a peek. Everything seemed to be in working order, so I reinstalled the fan/shroud and went for a drive. The motor is certainly quieter, and smoother. I would guess that the damper cut out about 80% of the noise I got when I installed the SBC OFE, and all of the low rpm vibrations (thou the test will come when towing). There is noticeably less engine noise accelerating and cruising at a constant rpm. I actually heard a little timing rattle today for the first time since I installed the turbo, which is probably because the rest of the motor is quieter. At idle the vacuum pump sounds 2 or 3 notches louder, but in all actuality the motor is quieter so the pump is more audible. I still have a little bit of gear rollover in the trans but nothing like it was, but again more time will tell. Shutdown is quieter. It seemed to take a little longer to fire when starting, I wonder if that was because I was paying more attention, or if the nearly 2x heaver damper takes more energy to get spinning and the motor is slower to accelerate to the rpms required for starting? My OEM damper was actually in good shape, no cracks, or rotation. I am glad it's out thou, as I make a bit more torque than it was designed for.