AH64ID

Ah, so replaced the entire injector. Watch it when it cranks, you should get white smoke if it's not firing.

If it's cranking and not firing there should be white smoke if fuel is getting injected. No white smoke means no fuel.

So you had the current pop pressure with different nozzles? And the issue started with new nozzles? That sounds like a nozzle issue and not a pop issue.

I agree that fuel volume is decreased with higher pop during crank, but your atomization will be better at the higher pressure. I do wonder thou how much fuel is decreased since the injector nozzle is larger too. I also agree that the timing change shouldn't be that much, at least not enough to make that much of a difference. So if the block heater and grids are heating, crank speed is good, and it's a ***** to start I'm not sure you can blame the pop pressure either. If it starts on a 50° day just fine it should start with a block heater, grid heater, and good batteries the same. Could it be a VP issue? Or maybe a new issue since it got cold that isn't related to the cold.

The coldest I’ve seen my motor after 90 minutes of block heater operation was a windy morning and my winter front wasn’t installed. My coolant was around 60-70°, which is warm enough to feel if it’s 0° out. Normally it was 80-90° with 90 minutes and 90-100° after overnight heating, which is why I used a timer. No point it paying the power company for 8 hours when it’s not much warmer.

Housings is part of it and so is the turbine wheel size. The HE351 has a smaller housing and wheel, which drives the boost up at low flow. Even my dads modded 351 has the same size turbine wheel as a HX35 with a smaller turbine housing and his cruise boost dropped quite a bit and is inline with that you see.

Your’s seems a little low to me based on my 05 and dads 06. I don’t have that turbo anymore and dads is down to 4-7 psi at 70 now with the modified turbine. Also the OP’s truck has hips and a G56, both of which will effect cruise boost. Which sounds about right for the turbo you run.

My understanding is that they are a true starting value, thou my Touch won't display that value while cranking.

They should be available from the vendor. I'm pretty sure it's the HE351 compressor wheel and the HE351VE turbine wheel.

That's only half the story. What are the full wheel dimensions?

Looking at 01Cummins4Ever's response I think you're still talking about the adjustment nut and not the actual regulator nut (which isn't a nut but the regulator itself).

Yes, but I think the OP is also referring to the larger nut still, which should hold the pressure regulation valve in and not be used for pressure adjustments.

Im still not tracking why you need a wrench on the inner/larger nut?

Having never adjusted an AD this comes with a grain of salt. But I’ve worked with multiple regulators that appear the same. The large nut against the main housing should be right and doesn’t appear to be used for pressure adjustments. The next but outward is the jam nut for the pressure adjustment screw that is adjusted with a screwdriver. So once that large nut is tight you shouldn’t have to touch it. The 2nd nut should have zero effect on the tightness of the large nut. I’d tighten the large nut with a socket. Then adjust your pressure with a single wrench and a screwdriver.

What do you mean by pressure going up and down? How much of a swing? The AD regulates flow to acheive steady pressure. It should be constant until you reach the flow capabilities of the pump.

Gotcha. I was thinking you had a detached garage for some reason...maybe it's because these trucks don't fit in too many attached garages:-) I just went out and tested cranking rpms. I shut off the fuel and it cranked at 170-180 rpms. I was trying to figure out where I got 300 from and the only thing I can figure is the starter specs are 3000 minimum. I'm not able to edit cranking timing on the fly so I won't be testing that. This is what it is OEM thou, for funzies. This is off of an 03-04 since it has the same piston design as a VP truck. The 04.5-07 uses slightly different timing but I think that's mostly due to the piston bowl design. Main Pilot

How is your unheated garage 40°F? 2 nights ago it got to -6° and my shop was 17°. Nice thing about running around is the motor takes a long time to cool and the intake manifold warms up to the block temp and helps starting.

I don't use them when it's warm either. I really like being able to edit the tables for heater time. Now if I could just get access to the post-heat tables. I started at -15° last year without a grid heater. It barely started, thou I had bad batt's, and it was angry. I think CR's start better cold than VP's too. BLUF, take a cord.

They failed uploading the first time, they are there now. I don't see them in RaceMe either. They disappear in 2010, it makes me wonder if it's not ECM controlled anymore? I have when I drove the truck regularly. I used a 15A outdoor timer set for 90 minutes before I would leave for work. It helps at all temps, but it really makes a difference below 0°. With the large mass of these motors I rarely ever see my IAT/AAT/Battery Temps as low as the ambient temp. This morning they were 3° above ambient but the ambient had come up 10° from when I went to bed.

So the 2002 stock file I was looking at didn't have that table, but I found it in a 1998 stock file. Interesting. 45 seconds below -20°, I know I wouldn't be dual cycling that! I actually think there is plenty of time built in there and I wouldn't be dual cycling at any temperature. Not sure. I don't see the table for 2014 in UDC. 2009 is the same as my 2005. Here is what I run, more starting aid based and less emissions based. Different style batteries really don't like being mixed on once charge circuit. You will drastically shorten the life of both batteries doing that. I would get some good dual purpose batteries and keep them matched.

That's not a 2nd gen table... at least that I can see.

Interesting. That made me wonder what UDC shows for that. LP On Cranking 0.02 seconds LP Off Cranking 0.18 seconds So to me that says it cranks for .02 then off for .18, and repeat.

During crank or before crank? Lots of info on the TSB states no lift pump operation during crank.

I just did some reading on TSB 18-015-00. It sounds like it dropped “key on” voltage to 50% and then applied no voltage during cranking. This was to help fix a long crank issue, especially with #1 and/or cold weather. @Mopar1973Man, are you tracking something different for that TSB? I wonder how that relates to an aftermarket pump that uses the OEM circuit to control a really and not a pump. A relay will close on 1/2 voltage and give full voltage to the pump.

Wasn’t there a TSB that disables the lift pump during VP cranking? Either way, at such low injector flow even 1-2 psi is plenty of flow for VP inlet to get full fuel. I thought cranking was 300+ rpms. I should play with it on my truck. Right now my single event tume uses a pilot for cranking :-)