AH64ID

I got a wife, kids. Do I sound like a happy guy to you, Frankie?

Open carry isn't frowned upon but it is anything but common in Boise. I haven't seen anyone open carry in recent enough memory to recall. It's not frowned upon here in Boise but CC is the norm. Funny you call a .22 a pee shooter as it has LOTS more kills than a 9mm and I personally consider it a better CCW round than 9mm but that is all preference. Most people just don't pay attention. I have always open carried in Yellowstone, since a G22 is too big to conceal, and maybe twice a day, if that, it will be noticed. For the most part people aren't looking.

Congratulations on getting hitched!

Much last 25 feet and you get into a harder time using self defense. Not that I agree with it but it's the current perception. Depending on the scenario I would feel confident getting at least 4/6 in the chest at 25 feet with rapid fire.

I have owned several of the small 380's and the keltec is uncomfortable to shoot and not overly accurate but the .380 bodyguard is nothing like it. It is more than accurate enough and easy to shoot. The gun you have with you is always the best one. I have multiple guns I can choose from for CC purposes but if I could only own one it would be the body guard in .380. It's easy to carry ALL the time.

Vicinity of #3 smack dab in the middle of the intake plate.

Just for grins here is what I saw today for temps on an empty cruise at 65 mph. Temp 65° Wind <5mph Pre-turbo IAT 65° Intake Manifold IAT 71-72° Boost 1-2 psi EGT's 525° pre, 450° post Engine load 18-19% Rail Pressure 13.4K A 6-7° increase is about as low as it gets and an average empty cruise (which isn't common for me) will normally be about +10-12°.

That sounds about right. The 160° is air temp over the clutch since radiator discharge air is cooler than engine temp.

I thought, thou it has been a while, that Pepsi dropped back to the 190° due to excessive fan operation. Without a different fan clutch it would be useless in summer for any gains unless you are always empty. I have been wanting to try a 200° thermostat for quite a while but ther isn't much point unless I can reprogram my fan. IIRC the 2nd gen fan clutch is a traditional clutch right? With a hotter engine and the stagnant airflow of a winter front you may be surprised. Having watched IAT (pre and post turbo) with winter fronts for a few years they retain quite a bit of heat. EDIT: I just did a little reading on the 2nd gen clutch. It is a viscous clutch with a mechanical thermostat, which means it is not an on/off clutch. It starts to engage when exposed to temps above 160°.

I once ran one for 23K miles over 14 months and even with all the soot at the time it didn't plug. I use a EaBP-110. On my wife's 4Runner I run them for 2 years which is 2 oil changes and approx 16-20K miles. She uses a EaBP-90. Amsoil rates them for 60K miles or two full flow changes.

With the 200° thermostat and winter front I will be curious to see how much extra your fan runs. I would bet that any mileage increase will be negated by additional load from the fan.

I am of a believer that the decrease most see in cold weather is mainly the effect of the cold on tires, fluids, air density and only a very small impact by fuel blends. What I have always found odd about the MPG fooler is that warmer makes for better mileage. From a tuning standpoint warmer means lower timing. Very odd indeed. It should, depending on ambient temp, get warmer than 120°; however, it is VERY bad to cold idle a diesel and letting a diesel idle until warm in the winter is one of the worst things you can do to it.

You are dwelling on the total miles too much. How many starts/stops? How much idle time? Average speed? Etc... I could drive 300 miles a day of HORRIBLE miles but not be in your short trip category. Your driving is better than most but I wouldn't put most diesel pickup owners in a big city. A bigger city, YES but not always a BIG city.

But that doesn't mean anything other than you drive a lot. At least the scenery is awesome up there :-)

Looks delicious!! My brother just got engaged and will be going thru the same thing over the next year... lots of fun that I have tried to forget.

Which is exactly the point I was trying to make. Real life driving is not long haul driving and cannot be compared to it. There are very few places to get CI oil even if you make the drive north or south. I get mine from a guy across the street but like you said it's Amsoil. CJ isn't bad oil.

Distance per day is a lot different than distance per trip even if you never shut the engine off, which is the point I was trying to make. When you say you travel a minimum of 100 miles that reads, to me, as per trip/engine start. A UPS truck might drive 200 miles in a day but never goes more than 3 miles without shutting off, which is an extreme example; however, if you just look at the distance per day you don't get a very good picture of its use. CJ-4 oil isn't bad oil at all I just happen to think CI-4 is better for my engine and my use and I will continue to use CI-4 as long as I can. TDR did a refresh of the article in 2012 but IIRC it was less inclusive than the original article.

Eeeekk... K&N is a 4 letter word on a diesel (anything with a turbo really).

Yeah that is the adapter I saw. Unless there is a big plate with the adapter you cannot go larger with just a small piece.

Yes DBL7349=ELF7349=EaO80. All of the Fleetguards are rated at 8.72GPH. You really won't find a better filter than the Donaldson. They now have a cheaper one, forget the part number, that is also 15um absolute but IIRC it had a lower dirt holding capacity. I am not aware of and bypass filters for the Amsoil head. I would have researched filters before buying a filter adapter. The only adapter I see on eBay makes it smaller, not larger.

My titanium has always been at zero, both stock turbo and garrett, so I am not sure where that came from. I do a TON of dusty road driving and often heavy where the engine airflow is high. 11 is one of my lowest readings and have found the OEM filter to be the best I have ran.

The name. It is one of the few filters that went to the DBL (Donaldson Blue) line without any changes other than part number/paint.

Factory airbox and air filter. The airbox has been modded with a Home Depot CAI and and Airaid MIT. The turbo is a Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R. I think I could have gone a lot longer on the oil but it was my first change with synthetic on the new engine and I was about to tow in some hot weather. I typically sample at 7,500 and run until 12 months but wanted to cut it short on the first long one... thou I don't have a good reason to.

Try using www.filterspro.com for filters. My last UOA was at 7,730 miles (266 engine hours and 10 months) with a TBN of 8.5. I burned right at 600 gallons on that OCI for an average of 12.8 mpgs so I would say that the oil was worked quite hard! I had 1387 ppm on Zinc and 1150 ppm on phosphorous. This was with Amsoil AME, a Donaldson ELF7349, and a EaBP-110 which gives me a sump capacity of approx 14 quarts. EDIT: May as well just post the UOA. Disregard the Moly and Magnesium flags as they are leftover from the first 3 changes with Delo 400. The Severity would have been a 0 if not for the slight oil mixing.

Late to the party... I am not going to bother with quotes thou. The reason I don't run CJ-4 isn't as much the Zinc/Phosphorous as the TBN. The biggest killer of oil in 2007+ engines is fuel dilution so there is no reason to have a TBN that outlasts the fuel dilution so the TBN was dropped (12.1 vs 10.4 when looking at Amsoil 15w-40 CI vs CJ), the CI-4 also has better wear scar testing and some other benefits. It's also CHEAPER!!!! IIRC Amsoil has a higher TBN CJ-4 oil than your standard conventional or synthetic oil. All my friends with deleted 6.7's run the Amsoil CI-4+ AME oil. The 6.7 still runs the same basic flat tappet setup as the 5.9 did when it was installed into a Dodge pickup in 1989 and it comes form the factory with CJ-4 so running CJ-4 for the reasons of the Zinc/Phosphorous should be mute. Aftermarket cams like additional ZDDP for initial breakin due to the lobe size/pressure however the additives don't need to be ran for the life of the cam, depending on the size of the cam. TFaoro and I both have Hamilton cams and won't have to worry about ZDDP after a few oil changes (I am already there). CajFlynn's is not comparable to anyone else on this forum, Michael I know you really want to be like him but sorry, and using him as a reference point is just a poor as TDR issue 57. TDR Issue 57 is OUT DATED and should be deleted from everyones mind, completely!! I get so tired of seeing it that it make me think the posters have never read it. (Sorry Micheal I have seen it on multiple sites in the last 6 weeks and TIRED of it). Using TDR 57 for your oil decision is like using a 1994 12V Service manual to work on the HPCR fuel system. From where you live Michael one round trip to Riggins or McCall puts you out of the long haul oil change. Yes they are easy trips at a few miles but VERY different than long haul and easy trips can be harder on oil. From your house to Riggins my oil wouldn't even be hot. Do you keep track of engine hours(don't recall if 2nd gens have meters)? Or average MPH? Or average GPH? Those numbers are more indicative of long haul. How do you go minimum 100 miles? You are about 15 miles from Riggins right? And 30-35 from McCall? Unless you only drive the truck to Ontario or Boise I don't see how you can go 100 miles minimum and even a 100 mile average would be difficult based on one round trip to Riggins you would have to have two other trips that average 185 miles each to get to a 100 mile trip average. Not trying to pick on you but a couple of your comments left me In terms of filters there is only 1 filter I would recommend. The Donaldson DBL7349 (aka ELF7349). This is the only filter capable (97.5%) of matching the oil pump flow. Even the OEM filters are not rated for the full flow of the oil pump but rather the flow at cruise rpms. The oil pump is rated for 20.5 GPM at 4200 rpms and the OEM filters are rated for 8.72 GPM. The Donaldson is rated for 20 GPM. The Donaldson also has far superior filtration ratings (15µ absolute vs 25µ absolute for the Stratapore) Speaking of Ro-Smella I have noticed a small oil odor during the first couple thousand miles with my new engine. This most recent change the odor is still there but MUCH lower. Even with 40% of the 17K miles on the new engine being towing (and 90% of those above 18K GCW) I guess there is still some breaking in to do.