MoparFreak1988

I dont have one though knowing what my plate looked like when I removed it to to reseal my head at 189,000 I would say this piece may be worth its salt simply because I got more mpg gain with my bhaf and mandrel bent 4in exhaust then anything else so in theory by smoothing and increase volume of airflow you will see gains maybee not a daily driver but towing most definately being the same cost of my valve cover I wanted lol I rather purchase one of those and fix my valve cover prolly get more out of it... just my I know you wanted someone that had one but with my racing experiance and playing with doing porting and polishing on my own heads this is basicaly the same trust me this is added to my wish list for the summer

I have been reading this for awhile now with curious interest and noticed you cleaned the apps sensor if your problem occurs again that is probably where the problem lies my truck doesnt have neerly as many modsbut is the same in theory only being a 2500 instead of 3500 but had almost identical issues minus the fact that when you started mine it would throttle up and down until I put it in gear and it would stall finally after cleining all the sensor one at a time very tedious as you probaly already know and the apps made adifference enough to take it on the driveway out to the road and when I stepped on the gas it started missing and chugging scared like a little chicken I took it back and started over after talking to the dealer wher the truck was purchased it was reflashed and had the ground wire installed, well salt and dumb dumb mechanics (no offense to those on this site in that occupation there are plenty of good ones to) it wasnt doing much of anything but causing problems rewired that and where good for a few months I finally gave up about a year and a half ago and spent the 500 and replaced it the truck has done flawless since minus me having to redo the ground one more time due to a whoops in removing the battery. I thought I would pass this bit of insight along and I hope she keeps running strong for ya.

Thanks for all the quick responses and good info and as for the engine brake it is on a couple of the work trucks (both are peterbuilts with cats) I drive, as well as two a (gmc detroit and a freightliner cummins) have the exhaust brake and I wasnt positive if there was a difference between the two types and now I know lol I'll be looking into that exhaust brake and controler when I do my tranny upgrade but my truck needs to gimp along till fall when I can finally get the 7k together to do it right

Thanks sasqch for the quick response that is some very helpful information you posted, one other question I had was is there actualy a difference between engine brake and exhaust brake or are they one in the same? I always believed they use compresion through the engine to slow the vehicle is this correct?

Ok one this may be in the wrong place and two I'm not familar with either the engine or the exhaust brake nor do I even know for shure theres a diference between the two. I am looking to install one on my truck due to poor service brake longevity about 30k on a set of pads and rotors and was looking for guidance and advice. Because Im woried more about engine life than brake life I was looking to pick your brains and find out if they cause any harm to the engine, our volunteer fire chief who has been an over the road driver for most of his life, does not like the use of them on our fire rigs because he believes it is cheaper to change brakes than an engine... I do know engine are expensive but I dont know if a compresion brake will cause any harm. also I'd assume they work on autos since some rigs are automatics and im a bit confused why the manual tranny ones are listed exhaust brake and the autos engine brake hence why the title is the way it is lol feel free to set me straight if I've got something messed up... A couple other thing where do they effect the transmission at all and if I were to have a week tranny could it hurt it? and lastly if I were to purchase one what would be the best place to go and what brand by chance? Thanks it is always appreichiated

Thanks for the quick response Mike, kinda confused though, was this your write up http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/drum-upgrade/drum-upgrade.htm ? and from this quote I take it you have four wheel disc brakes slightly confused lol sry Im still new to forums I realized after the fact the right way to add quotes "Here is what my pads and rotors look like at 120K miles... (rears) My fronts loked just the same..." I have drum rears which at 253k ish are original and almost spent but by this I would say my back brakes need to do more stopping power if you follow. Let me know, Thoughts on the exhaust brake are yea there pretty awesome like you I am a volunteer firefighter for our community and all our fire rigs are equiped with that nifty device, though our new fire chief does not like the use of theese due to his belief that they damage engines and woul always say "its cheaper to change brakes than an engine" My question to you is do they actually damage your engine I believe it is a form of using the exhaust compression to slow the engine feel free to correct me I have never tinkered with one yet Thanks and always appreichiated

As for the simple green, that and desolv it are the only two chemicals other than wax and soap that will ever touch my vehicles I found out the hard way you need to clean gas dribble from the filler, leave gas residue on paint for 6 month to a year in the sun and heat (75F plus) it will bubble your paint/damage your paint simple green is definately the best degreser you can use on your truck I have a compressed air siphon sprayer that I use along with simple green and a bug brush to get the tar off my truck and it works awesome. Debadging two easy steps go buy an orange oil solvent like desolv it it is what I use and have been using it on boats, snowmobiles, cars and bikes since I was 14, now I'm still young but with 7 years of using this with no problems says something not to mention it is biodegradeable hence more enviromentaly friendly than harsh chemicals... just my two cents it will not damage automotive paint and once your done you'll never know except if its a dark color and you get sun fade around the area of the badge if thats the case a simple rubbing compound will fix her right up also you may want a plastic body filler knife they work wonders. To take them off spray around the badge let soak 5 min if it doesnt pop off taking the tape with it, wipe the residue off with a towl spray the tape let soak about 5 min and your body knife will scrape the remainder off with little to no effort, then just rinse and dry your rig you dont even need to wash tho it is recomended by mfg. the beauty of it is anything new with stickers on it that you want to remove, you will find this to come in handy especilly at the fact its about 3 bucks cheaper per gallon than gas and I've used at least a gallon and a half of this stuff...

Being the single most important part on our trucks I thought I would toss some thoughts out there for your opinions. To start I have had other 3/4ton trucks though none with a heavy diesel motor and they seem to perform well with stock brake my rotors will last about a 100k and the pads 50-60k on the two gassers I have that are driveable. Now my diesel ram chewed up my rotors and pads in 30k miles is this normal? The pads where ebc greenstuff 600 for the 8800gvwr not the 7500gvwr almost biffed that this go round and stock rotors at 225,800 miles the front brakes where completly overhauled new lines, calipers, cleaned and wire brushed the caliper mounts, rotors and pads it just had that done again minus the calipers one rotor was 10thousands under min and the other was 20thousands above min and only one side wiskers were squeaking. My thoughts/questions are is this normal or is this problem being caused by that 530 dollar p.o.s valve in the rear that proporsions brake pressure according to weight my bar that connects the two keeps falling off of which I have found some simple repairs (assuming you didnt do what I did which is try to take the lever off you will turn the valve and have a nightmare on your hands) So your choices are replace it with either a staight piece of brake line, put a new valve in or if your lucky and only have my original problem grind off the nub on the lever that the bar connects to and then drill a hole in the center of where the nub exsisted about 3/16 will do. Now you can turn your attention to the bar pull it out and drill out the socket where the the nub went to hold it on same drill. Then put the bar back in and sandwhich a nylon washer between the bar and the bolt head then one between the lever and the bar and the final one between the lever and the nut and there you go your off to the races. So I now have a line and no valve because of my mistakes the last question I had was when I rebuild my rear brakes should I install the one tone wheel cylinders or will that increase chances of wheel lockup while unloaded Mike I believe you have done this and have wright up about it so I am eager to hear back I dont want to make dropping 700 dollars a common ocurence for a set of brakes Thanks as always the help is greatly appreichiated

That they do and a almost 50 percent more and only the same warranty I think I have chosen my tire although my tire guy agrees with you wild and free there is not a better all terrain multi purpose tire for our trucks... Thanks for all of your tips and advice it really helps alot and is always apprechiated

Huh I wonder what route I should go and wonder if there even brighter than stock or stock "sport" lights... What do you guys think, a bit odd is it not that theres that much price difference, or is one a knockoff?

Not to hijack the thread but I believe I'm am going to purchase a set of these lights simply so I can see something at night and they are as affordable as stock and I think something smells a bit fishy here check out the price at lmc http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?page=48 this is the only reason I havent purchased lmc truck has so far been the cheapest for every exterior/interior repair part and now they are over a hundred bucks more what do you guys think I really arent in it for the looks I just want to see past my hood lol

Sounds like you got a stout plan and I hope it goes well for you and I may sugest a maroon with a candy red clear its about 10-15 percent more for the clear but it looks awsome dont take my word for it though when I cant even decide what color to paint mine, silver is just to borring lol mine may get that treatment and use the silver as a base its another sweet one but its close to fire engine red though...

I'd bite the bullet and I hope this makes you feel better I need about that for my body work minus the rocker panel and I'm repairing my bed but the entire truck will need to be repainted and in my opinion body work is an easy place to save a couple hundred bucks for example I am quite good friends with my body man that runs a profesional shop and he's always willing to work with me if money is tight and talk to them if you can get and install and gap your fender properly which I am doing and since the entire truck needs to be painted the said put them on and it'll save you between 100 and 500 dollars in labor he said if you go that route linex or due some sort of rust preventer on the inside whether it be new or used that is where the rust starts. Also because you are using used part I would go that route to insure that the fender is of good quality and wolnt start rusting inside out now to make you feel better with my body work and the both diff and the tranny needing a freshen up I'm looking at between 9-12 thousand but I dont care that I have to spend it because I would rather have an old truck that I can fix versus a new computrized one I cant and as I say to everone driveing new truck or chevys/fords it may be a little rusty a little dusty but theres nothing more trusty than my old girl, its an auto has been running with out second gear for 12k miles (found that out yesterday :banghead:) and its about time for the rebuild but it just keeps on trucking

I like it but I dont know it almost seems a little to good to be true considering it sounds like you get the pair for 177 unless im mistaken and some H.I.D. kits that arent legal but true H.I.D. are 200 plus for the kit if it is what they are cracked up to be I will definately purchase due to the fact that after 6 deer to the front end my headlights have suffered to the point of almost hitting other animals at night because I cant see them so me putting them in wouldnt count as good review since a flashlight may be better than what I have so they will most likely appear better even if they are worse, the same as or better than stock if you follow but I'm givin it some serious thought though...

Thanks for the tips my truck is going in friday to look at what they will do as for prorating the new ones since i've got 30k on them I dont know what I'll get. I plan to switch to one of three I think let me know what you think its either a dunlop rover mt max traction http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Rover+M%2FT+Maxx+Traction the dunlop rover rt http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Radial+Rover+R%2FT or a toyo open country m55 http://www.toyocanada.com/products/M55.asp I really dont know which route to take and the dunlops run within 40 dollars of each other I just have no previous experiance with them except on our brush fire rig for the fire department otherwise I havent ever used dunlop or toyo tire so this is uncharted waters for me I am leaning towards the maxx traction due to its cheaper than the toyo with the same 50k warranty and I dont like the rt due to I could only get a 265/75 r16 and I'd preffer a 285/75 r16 so I've kinda got it down to 2 but I dont know if there is a reason for it being cheaper . Thanks as always for your advice it is always apprechiated

Thanks for all the quick response the new dynapro atm has tweeked my interests but I'm hesitant to go that way due to the current results of the dynapro as's as well as the toyo open countrys since both run about 200 bucks cheaper for a set of four, does anyone know what kind of longevity to the toyos get? Moparman do you guys get a lot of snow out there and do you sandbag your truck in the winter only asking was because I was under the belief that a skinnyer taller tire does worse in snow versus like a 305 or 285? But at the same time tread pattern matters just as much. Thanks in advance for all the advice it is much apprechiated

Well after 30k my hancook dynapros as's are shot and in my opinion they were the worst purchase I have made for my truck and they were rotated and balanced every oil change 7k miles about if you are running these tires I'd like to hear your opinion. My front end was rebuilt top to bottom when these tires were put on so I dont think I am the reson for the quick weardown unless I missed something I would also like your guys opinon as to what the best lasting true allterain tire is. At the moment I'm switching to a 285 for shure and I'm debating going back to coopers discoverer st/c even though they cost an arm and a leg because I'll get 60k about out of them and in the winter they are the only tire that does not need sand in the bed or 4wd to handle decent and I have tried the bfg all terrains (got me stuck in a field due to burrying the front axle in snow) and the michilin equvilant and the coopers win hands down in my opinion and is based off of the fact that only one tire to this date has taken me through the axle deep snow off pavement and that was the coopers and they didnt complain... my main problem is I drive almost 50/50 on and off pavement so I need a heady duty all terrain and those types of tire dont last as long ride as nice or wear as well as a highway tread tire which is what I would like to run hence the hancooks currently on there and it simply wolnt work I want to know what you think because I dont like the 700 about for a set of four coopers. Is there another tire out there that im missing?Thanks in advance the advice is always much appreichiated

Its late though I thought it may be may be usefull to some the drainback happens naturally in park only if you remove the drainback valve which on our auto trucks its a common modification do to a plugging problem in the valve causing a lack of flow hence lack of cooling its only purpose is to keep the fluid from draining out of the converter in park when the truck sits. For those that let it sit and get more out think about oil and when it gets a little sludgy and now its running through 3\8 to 1\2 inch holes and lines for god knows how many feet its how these trannys work so you will get drainback from there over time depending how the truck is sitting (level on a slope) not the converter I am not being mean or trying to say anyones information is wrong this is just information I gathered from multiple dealers and shops and I wanted to clear up anyone thoughts on drainback from the converter I am in a hotel now and when I get back to my service book I will tell yall where it is located and if you have an auto at every service it should be checked they next step will will give you a good way to check it without pulling it out I belive it is located in the bellhousing or just outside. Now another bit is that in searching for a solution to my tranny problem I found if you have the time there is a really simple way to drain most of the fluid about 24 hours and an easy way to drain your fluid without a drain plug remove all the bolts but one on each end front back center bolts set the park brake put the truck in netraul loosen one bolt and leave it in a couple threads and remove the one opposite while supporting pan with free hand and now you have an easy way to control fluid drian once its empty for the most part, pull the remaing bolt and lower it carefully to the ground and yes there still will be fluid in there take your filter off and let her drain down over night. (now another thought is on the 14 quarts I belive new everything is 12-14 depending on pan) I put 10 and a half quarts in mine last time. Hope this helps some if I am wrong on any of this please let me know this is just going off what I have been told and I have seen whith my own rig.

Thanks for the tips I have located a ruptured rubber stopper on the dip tube allowing it to blow the fluid out that way other than that I dryed the lines off and since they have stayed that way a little weep on high pressure but no driping just enough to make the fitting and not the line damp Erv said there is a chance that the pump internal gear is failing and causing it to boil the oil out the top while driving which is wear it seems to be coming from considering the only wet place is from the cap down one side of the resivoir have you ever hear of a pump boiling oil and I must say this is quite puzzling to the point if I can figure it out I'll throw pics up this aft so you can see what the resivoir and lines look like. Thnaks in advance for all you help Moparman

Sorry for the delay I just got back in town it now has new fluid but needs to be flushed again it gets changed/flushed once every year usaually about 40k it leaked out all the fluid over an 8 hour period and hasnt leaked since just burning fluid and it is not on the ground though definatley going somewhere added a quart yesterday, did I kill the pump by over running the fluid I plan to flush it today as well as install my modded bhaf heat shield thanks for the template by the way Moparman

Ok so I know we have the hydro boost on our trucks so that is why I dont want to tempt fate on this one. As for my mystery when I was up north last week I saw single digit temps about 5 degrees f. I went and started my truck to move it out of the way, it started fine but I had no power steering and a growl from the pump so I shut it off checked the fluid to find it on the full line and smelling terribly burnt (I should let you know now that before I ever travel 200 plus miles from home for work I check all fluid for levels and abnormal smells... ect. it was fine when I left) I went back to the cab fired it up and I had power steering so I moved it and continued working thinking I would deal with it later on, well on the way back to my sleeping quarters I noticed a large pool of oil under the truck and yup its power steering and now I have none left so I borrowed my co workers truck went and got fluid in the morning and threw it in there worked for the day without problems and no leaks and when I left that evening untill I got on the highway I didnt have any power steering though I did have power brakes, when I got off all was fine and as it should be and as of this moment I have flushed the system and and all is good minus a minor growl under hard turns and my new fluid is degrading quickly (hence burning). Is my pump failing and where did the fluid come from it hasnt dripped a drop since, any help would be awesome and as always thanks again in advance.

Thanks for the info mopar man and 1longbed I was remembering how i got the car apart not the old 91 cummins i did it on to my suprise doing the kdp check was more simple to do than getting that stupid crank sensor out on my 99 and also shocking as it may be my cover looks kinda the same as the one off the 91 12 valve how do you tell if you have the corrected cover since my kdp is as happy as a clam and hasnt moved and to my knowledge unless its the corrected cover nothing has been done with it, thus agreeing kinda with what the dodge tech said "if they dont come out by a hundred they wolnt" as for the cover are there numbers to go by or is there a visual difference cuz it didnt look like anything has been in contact with the kdp im confused is hould have drug the cover down to the dodge dealer:banghead:. lol Thanks in advance you guys have been great and have helped out alot

Bio blends are bad news in my opinion unless you blend it yourself and/or use extensive filters to control water saturation, be carefull in the winter do to the high chance of gelling and line freezing, long story short my boss was running a 2004 dodge ram 3500 with the cummins with a 50 percent blend and was changing fuel filters and everything like he should and at 50,000 he lost the injection pump, the pump was not replaced under warrenty and had to come out of pocket simply because fuel comtamination was deemed the cause if i can find the picture of the pump pulled apart i will gladly post them tho dont get your hopes up i can barely find yesterdays receipts ... I'm sure that now there are filters that can combat this saying this was a while ago and he had all stock equipment, but i just thought i'd let you guys know about a bad expierence that i witnessed and oh boy he was pissed for weeks lol hope it proves usefull and i think its a great idea it just needs to be tuned up a bit yet. If anyone has any usefull insight as for filters to use i've got the bio fuel around here and am willing to expieriment with the old motor and see what results i get

I'd imagine its alot worse doing all that, I just hate pulling that stupid crank damper other than that easy as cake any tips or tricks for getting that thing off without cursing at it and using a little heat to persuade it off I am also using a three prong puller is ther something better?Thanks in advance for the help

I did this repair to my 91 twelve valve in the truck and i hated it and would like to avoid doing it again on my 99 I know the only way to tell for shure is by looking but assuming i got my truck at 120,000ish and its got 250,00ish now, do u think if the problem was there it would have shown itsself by now? Im almost tempted just to put her up this weekend and tear it down just to find out... lol thanks in advance