notlimah

Yea same thought here. I went and aired up to 32/36psi f/r and it even sits with a slight "flat" look at the bottoms of the tire, mainly the front. I think I'll take AH64ID's advice and do 40/40! I'll call and ask about that tongue weight tomorrow. Is there a calculation to figure out tongue weight so I can sound a little more educated on the phone? What are LRD tires? I will be putting smaller 285 or 295 load E's once these are worn. I'm hoping this quick trip won't cause any wear damage, I believe the tires are over 12in wide though. I didn't think the weight would be an issue, was more thinking if I should add a small tuner or something just to help out but wouldn't hurt the trans either. Still eying a quad xzt+ especially since I'm sending Tyler's smarty back Monday so I'm going to be feeling weird with stock power again!

Sounds like maybe that lift pump is no good. If it's just a stock replacement, those are junk. Honestly surprised to hear you're even getting 13psi. Where is that measured from? Also one of the mods should move this to the 2nd gen power train section, you accidentally posted in the 3rd gen section.

I used the same axle weight as your truck since we both have 02 4x4 quad cabs and I came out with 32psi front 36psi rear That sound right?

What tire pressure do you think I should run?

Straight from the tire

Tires are 315/75/16s, load range D, Max load 1450kg (3195lbs) Max psi 50 cold. So based off your forumla (I used the same axle weights since we have the same year/model truck) it'd put me at front psi of 32 and rear of 36?

Thanks for the input guys! Puts my mind at ease. I have the stock frame mounted receiver hitch and an adjustable height hitch for the ball. Any recommendations on tire pressure with the big 305s on there?

Ok this is probably very obvious, so don't be offended, but are you tightening down all the lines once it's starting? The bleed process should go, loosen fuel filter, bleed it, solid fuel flowing then tighten. Then the same process at the VP, and then the same process at the injector lines on the head. That's how you'll get all the air out. Once the truck starts with injector lines cracked it'll run, but it'll run like crap and you'll need to tighten down the lines to smooth her out. If if your already doing this then please pay no mind! Just wanted to make sure that was happening since it never was really mentioned. I I do agree though. If the trucks starting and dying then it sounds like it's either being starved for fuel, or it's leaking. The leak would be pretty obvious I'd imagine. Otherwise make sure no lines are kinked and you have everything plumbed and routed the right way. That could explain your low fuel pressure readings.

Well the family and I are looking to take a camping trip for a few days in August so I was looking at renting a travel trailer from a nearby business, they have decent prices. The trailer I'm looking to rent is a 17ft Cascade weighing 4500lbs with a 1200lb tongue weight. Right now I'm 100% stock. Nothing in the trans, no extra power in the motor, this should be no problem right? I only have the stock hitch and it say's 1000 is max for tongue or am I reading that wrong? Some concerns... - running 305's so max psi is 40ish psi - weak stock trans, although shouldn't be any major climbs to worry about, but some decent hills n such. - tongue weight being higher then rated on my hitch? Would it hurt to try and throw an edge ez or quad xzt for towing on stock trans?

So basically, injector quality of spray falls off over 100hp injectors? Is that just because you can only contain quality to a lower amount of fuel being flowed? Or, 100hp+ injectors are just putting out too much fuel to be able to maintain a higher quality of fuel spray? Almost a quantity vs quality thing

Its from his tablet running an OBDii MX

This thread is like reading a different language! Let me know when I can tweak my settings in the OBD link to get accurate boost readings

Man that's a nice setup. Exactly what I'd like to be able to do with the wife n kid! Too bad about the fish... hope you guys still enjoyed yourselves!

Fastest shipping times ever!!

So what's the benefit of tweaking these settings?

To me, track bar should be DOR's or DT pro fab since they're practically the same, but they're the only kit designed specifically for the 2nd gen. Not a 3rd gen modded to fit the 2nd gen. Same goes for either synergys soon to be release steering kit for 2nd gens or DORs which are both drop in kits.

Yea mine is from 3rd to 4th but it only happens when accelerating under light throttle input. If I'm on it a little more it's hardly noticeable. It basically feels like the trans can't figure out whether it should be in 4th unlocked or locked. It's a slight jerk or surge but it fixes itself quickly. Heres a a thread I started on what I think you're experiencing/describing. Maybe it'll answer some questions. Long story short, it seems normal.

With both my trucks, I bleed them slightly different. Both technically the same but still different.

Is it just the weird jump that rpm's make when going from locked 3rd gear to locked 4th to unlocked 4th? Or something along those lines?! Mine does the same thing between 3rd and 4th and it seems like the trans just can't exactly make up it's mind on what gear it wants to be in.

Yea you really have to bleed out the air starting from the fuel filter then VP then injector lines at the head. Make sure that whichever area your bleeding, you don't want to tighten down that section until you have SOLID fuel coming out. If you do it when solid fuel isn't running or when the system isn't pushing fuel through the lines then you're just going to still have air in the lines.

Thanks for that link. It was sort of confusing though. Haha! It said that mixing the coolants won't cause sludge build up, it will only shorten your flushing intervals based on the shorter life coolant being used. Then it recommends using the factory recommended coolant, which for us is the green stuff, but then at the end it says use the HOAT at the very end since it's backwards comparable. Hmmmm Theres really no one hard thing about doing the flush, it's more about all of them combined that makes it less appealing. Getting all the fluids, flushing it, trying not to make a mess, collecting all the old stuff, then taking it to the dump and all that. The dealer charges 115 for the flush, which by the times it's all said and done if I were doing it myself, it's pretty close in comparison. Luckily for me the radiator is brand new so it's still pretty clean and I re routed my like tube to help keep it that way. Is this normal if I was out hot shorting around? I think that might've been when the spit up happened. Not 100% sure though. I'd also assume the fan is working correctly, sounds like a turbo prop is under there sometimes! How would I check to make sure it was working properly though?

So try tightening up the injector lines and loosen the line at the fuel filter housing that goes to the VP44. Do the same process, bump the starter, let the pump run for a bit untill all the air bubbles go away and straight fuel comes out of filter and tighten it down. After that, do the same at the VP44 supply line. Once you have solid fuel coming out there, tighten down with fuel still coming out. THEN go back to doing the same thing at the injectors, except instead of just bumping the starter, cranking for 15-30 seconds. Fuel should come out then for sure. If your not getting fuel at all, you'll need to check to make sure you have power to your lift pump and that it's actually working. Check connections and fuses, your lift pump could've of gone dead.

Trust me, I don't like taking my truck in anymore then the rest of you but avoiding a mess, getting rid of the old coolant, buying new stuff, plus the time, I'm right around the same price as taking it to the dealer. Is there anything wrong with using the orange coolant? I'm going to replace the thermostat myself and just top it off with the universal stuff. Also, what psi radiator cap do you guys use?

So in the recent past, I had coolant spurt out of my radiator cap or overflow bottle. I know this because there were little spots all over the engine bay that were obviously coolant. I can't remember if my radiator cap had come loose allowing it to spray, or if it just came from the overflow bottle. I know at one point my overflow bottle was really high, like above the MAX line so I drained a little bit and then it seemed to be too low. I must've done this when the engine was still hot and just didn't think about it, so it probably would've just drained back down to a normal level had I left it. Well I figured now is as good as time as any to change the thermostat and the radiator cap just so I know when the last time they've been replaced was. I got a new 190* thermostat from napa and a new 16psi radiator cap. Is 16psi right? That's what the guy told me there, but the one on the truck now is 15psi, so which is it? Or does it matter? I'm going to take it to the dealer to have them do the flush, should I have them put any specific coolant in it? It currently has orange looking coolant, and I used some universal coolant so I could just top off the coolant until it's flushed, but is there specific coolant that these engines need?

@Royal Squire I edited my post and re-upped the photos, hopefully you and any others that couldn't see the photos can now.