trailhead

The truck has 225000. I’ve had it for the last 30k. No idea if injectors or pump have ever been replaced.

Coolant seems good. Oil seems good. Engine starts and runs. Belches white smoke. If I push down on accelerator black smoke and white smoke come out the tailpipe. Picture of white smoke.

Seems to be rolling over fine.

Yes. There were no codes.

2001.5 6 speed was driving home just fine when I noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. If I hit the skinny pedal I got a lot of black smoke. Pyros were a tad high but not dangerous. Boost normal. Fuel pressure normal. Temperature oil pressure all normal. Even felt like normal power. Regardless took it easy for 5 miles to my driveway. Shut it down. Turned the key. It fired up. Same smoke issues. Shut it down. Turned the key. It rolls over like there is no fuel. Fuel pressure gauge is still good. Popped the hood. Recently had the fuel pressure gauge installed and noticed it was weeping a bit. Thought maybe I was getting air in the fuel system. Tightened up a few fittings then turned it over again. Still sounds like no fuel. Figured I may have lost prime. Googled how to prime a vp44. Saw a couple posts about loosening up injectors 1,3,4 and bumping the key to get fuel through. So I loosened up 1,3,4 and bumped the starter. I did not have any intention of holding for any length of time. Just bumping it. It sounded horrible. Clunking. Chunking. I don’t know how to describe it. So I tightened 1,3,4 back up and went back to the key. Now my starter sounds like it won’t engage. I pull the starter out and the shaft is broken in two. Went to town. Bought starter. Installed starter. Have not turned the key. That’s where I’m at now. Any advice?

Picked up my truck with the new ecm. It had 5 new codes and the abs and brake light were on. After having the techs look at it for a while, I ended up taking the truck to Napa, disconnecting the batteries, and installing a new alternator. The codes all went away. Drive it 100 miles and the abs and brake light flickered a lot and then stayed on but no more codes. I asked tech after tech about the alternator output and “ac noise” they acted like they never heard of it and said “it’s putting out good voltage” but it sure looks like you were right to be suspicious of the alternator. Now on to figuring out the abs light and possibly replacing the battery cables as I don’t like how corroded they are. Hopefully this ecm will last.

Well, those three days were amazing. Truck died this morning. Codes 0215 and 1689 joined the party.

Well, I'll spare you all the details, but the third ECM was the charm. This one was a remanufactured Cummins ECM, installed and programmed by Cummins in Grand Junction. I now have a much lighter pocket book, but I have cruise control! Thanks for 4 years of help!

Back again. This time, I think I've found a shop that has some problem solving abilities although I don't have cruise...yet. So they replaced the clutch position safety switch, and they replaced the clock spring. Turns out there was a problem in there after all. They have continuity to where they need it, but when they hook up the scanners, they still can't find where the vehicle is equipped with cruise control. Long story short, they now say the ECM (on the driver's side of the block) is for an automatic transmission. They want to replace it. They say it is not the stock ECM. They say the ECM has been discontinued, can't get it from Napa, Dodge, etc, but they can get it off the internet from somewhere in New York. They want $1500. I'm leaning toward buying it, and if this works, well dripley was right all along. I'll let you know. It's been a long process. My only question is, any suggestions on where to get an ECM that isn't 1500? Or, if I am going to spend that kind of money, should I call up Cummins and see if they have one? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Thanks guys. I called a place near Denver about a genuine Cummins ECM - $2600. I also contacted the dealership, haven't heard back about a price yet. NAPA rebuilt - $375. Also, the new brake switch didn't change anything.

When you shift into 4x4, the vacuum switch on the transfer case delivers vacuum (if it has any) to the actuator on the front axle passenger side. When the axle actuator engages, the switch makes contact and illuminates your 4x4 light on the cluster. You're not getting 4x4, and you're not getting a light because that actuator is not sliding over. Either the actuator is shot, the vacuum switch is shot, or your vacuum system has a hole or is plugged somewhere. I guess your shifter could be a problem too, but I wouldn't know much about that. I just fixed my 4x4 on a 2001 Cummins Manual. Here's what I had to do. First, find the vacuum pump. Mine was right by the power steering pump. My vacuum pump only had one line coming from it. It went directly to the back of the engine compartment basically as close to the steering wheel as you can get, but still be in the engine compartment. There was a "T" here which had some problems. My truck does not use vacuum for cruise control, so a line that could have gone down to the servo didn't exist. If your truck has a servo, you'll need to check that the vacuum lines are good to the servo. (A vacuum tester is pretty cheap.) Don't be afraid to pull the lines apart at their connections and attach your vacuum tester. The plastic parts and rubber hoses are cheap. Plug any holes that shouldn't be there. Also, some Dodge's use a vacuum boost to the brake system master cylinder. Mine didn't. If yours does, you'll have to check that connection also. So anyway, from the "T" that I described, the line turns toward the passenger side of the vehicle. It has various connections along the way. Near the passenger side of the vehicle, the vacuum turns and heads into the cab. This line controls your blowers. This is why people say that if you don't have vacuum, your blowers will default to "defrost." My blowers had enough vacuum to work correctly, but my 4x4 didn't. I never did check the vacuum inside the cab, but I spotted it lately. Under the driver side dash, toward the stereo, I saw an actuator. Looked fine and everything powered by vacuum is working great now, so I didn't look any closer and can't describe it in much detail. You might have to look in there though. Back at the original "T" on the drivers side, my vacuum line turned down toward the ground. This line eventually goes to the 4x4, but don't skip the other stuff, because the whole system has to have vacuum; I found leaks everywhere on my system. So the line stops next at the transfer case (on the top). At this point it has a vacuum switch. The switch might be bad. I replaced mine, but it turns out I probably didn't need to. Anyway, vacuum is delivered to the switch, then it goes to your actuator inside the passenger side front axle. There are two lines going from the switch to the axle, and they turn to metal lines along the way. When you're in 2wd, vacuum is delivered to the passenger side (I think). When you're in 4wd the vacuum is delivered to the driver's side. ( Could be the other way around). There is an actuator device here, that I replaced, and I think it was necessary, but I might be wrong. See I had taken my truck to the dealership to work on the 4x4 and they couldn't figure it out - It ain't rocket science either. Well after I fixed all of the vacuum leaks, replaced the switch, and the actuator on the axle, my 4x4 still wasn't working. I was pissed. After scratching my head for a long time I decided to confirm the vacuum lines on top of the transfer case going into that switch were in the right order. Sure enough, they had been changed around so that vacuum wasn't being delivered right at all. So be careful to make sure all of those lines are right. Who knows, I might have messed them up, but I don't think I changed them around at all. I think the dealership did. Anyway, they didn't fix my 4x4, I did, and I'm better off for it. The harness that goes on the switch is junk too, and my parts houses couldn't find it. I ended up putting a zip tie around the base of it, and that helped. Good luck!

I'm the OP from way back in 2015. 2001.5 24 valve 6 speed manual transmission Cruise Control is fly by wire. There is no servo and no vacuum involved in the cruise control. My problem is that the cruise indicator light below the odometer on the instrument cluster is always illuminated. From the second the key is turned to the “on” position the cruise indicator light is on and cannot be turned off. The cruise does not work at all. Part 1 On the brake switch there are six wires. 1 (Wt/Pk - Brake Switch Sensor PCM) Shows no voltage with brake off (plunger depressed). This makes sense because the PCM doesn’t want to know unless the brake is applied, at which point this pin shows nearly 12 volts. 2 is the ground. 3 (YL/LR - Speed Control Supply) Never showed voltage (brake on/off, key on/off). 4 (dark blue/red) Also never showed any voltage. 5 (white/tan - trailer brake) showed 12 volts only when brake was applied, otherwise nothing (makes sense). 6 (pk/Dark Blue) showed 12 volts at all times. I’m replacing the brake switch regardless, but if there are any red flags here, please let me know. Part 2 Under the dash on the giant connector (C130 I think), I found a red/light green wire that I believe is the “Speed Control switch Signal” wire. Key off, no voltage. Key on 4.5 volts brake engaged and disengaged. I was using the “Signal Ground” to test the voltage. This is a black and light blue wire also going through the connector (C130). While testing the voltage on this circuit, I pressed the cruise switches to test their resistance. ON/OFF Cruise switch - voltage reduced to less than .7 volt. “Set” button. Voltage reduced to 3.3 volts. “Accel/Resume” switch - 4 volts. “Cancel” button - 1.7 volts. “Coast” button - 2.7 volts. My understanding of the Speed Control is that when certain conditions are met, Pressing the speed control switches (resistors) sends a specific voltage to the PCM and ECM. The computers recognize specific voltages and digitally send outputs to various components required to control the speed. The “On/Off” button sends a voltage to the PCM. The PCM recognizes the voltage and sends a digital message through the BUS to the Cluster indicating that the cruise indicator should illuminate. At the same time, the PCM sends a signal to the ECM, preparing the ECM to store a speed. When the “Set” button is pressed the PCM receives a specific voltage and translates that digitally to, the ECM, which stores a speed and uses various inputs (vehicle speed etc) to control the APPS, injectors, and VP44 to maintain the speed. The “Coast,” Cancel,” and Resume/Accel” buttons all send specific voltages which the computers analyze accordingly. My best guess up to this point is that the PCM is recieving a very low voltage, approximately 1 volt. This is interpreted as someone pushing the ON/Off button, and not releasing it. Therefore, the PCM always instructs the cluster to illuminate the “Cruise” light under the odometer, and it can never record a speed or perform any of the other cruise functions because it is receiving one constant, and very low voltage. I have no idea. Any corrections to my understanding and/or any suggestions would be mighty helpful. I’m just about to throw in the towel. Also, if you read this far, you're a saint. Thank you! Also, the PCM has been replaced. The dealership installed one I purchased. Nothing changed. I’ve never used a Scantool, is it possible that the cruise voltages have to be programmed in? Or that the PCM wasn’t set up correctly?

My cruise control light was always staying on, but the fly-by-wire cruise didn't work. After much problem solving, I finally took the 2001.5 Ram 2500 6 speed diesel to the dealer. Trust me, it wasn't my first choice. Anyway, they told me that the PCM didn't know that I ever had a cruise control equipped truck. The tech claimed that part of the PCM hard drive was dead. The dealership ordered a PCM, but somewhere along the line there was a mistake and they received a PCM for an automatic transmission. They didn't install it. Instead, I ordered a PCM from NAPA for about $450. The PCM came in and the dealership agreed to install it, labor free, since they'd screwed up so many times previously. So, they installed it. Then I got a call saying they still couldn't get the cruise to respond and had determined it was the instrument cluster. Cha-ching! The dealership tells me they can get a new cluster for $790 plus core deposit. I decided I'd buy from O'Reilly who wanted $330 plus core deposit. Well, it was supposed to take a month to get the part from O'Reilly. Nope. A month later they can't get the part, and they tell me that they might be able to get it if I wait another 4 months. So, I gave up and told the dealership to order their $790 dollar part. Three days later (yesterday) they get the part and try to install it. Tech calls me up, "The part that came in is Canadian, and I can't install a Canadian cluster into your Dodge." I assume it was due to KMH instead of MPH. Anyway, I've had it at this point, so I told the guy I just wanted my truck back, and that I will never be back. Guy ordered (or coincidentally received) the wrong PCM AND the wrong cluster. He seems entirely incompetent. After 3 months and almost $1000 nothing has changed on my truck, the cruise light is still on (always) and doesn't work! In case you're wondering, the cluster does not throw any codes when tested. I wish I wasn't so dense in this area. Can the cluster really be the issue? Can I get one from a junkyard? Should I keep trying to find a new one somewhere, or can someone just fix the one that I have? Should I put pressure on the dealership to get back some of the money I squandered with them? Thanks for all of the advice!

Well, here's an update. I ordered the PCM from Napa. If the PCM doesn't control the cruise on a 01 Diesel manual, this tech at the dealership needs... ANYWAY, the PCM came in and the dealership agreed to install it, labor free, since they'd screwed up so many times. So, they installed it. Then I got a call saying they still couldn't get the cruise to respond and had determined it was the instrument cluster. Cha-ching! The dealership tells me they can get a new cluster for $790 plus core deposit. I decided I'd buy from O'Reilly who wanted $330 plus core deposit. Well, it was supposed to take a month to get the part from O'Reilly. Nope. A month later they can't get the part, and they tell me that they might be able to get it if I wait another 4 months. So, I gave up and told the dealership to order their $790 dollar part. Three days later (yesterday) they get the part and try to install it. Tech calls me up, "The part that came in is Canadian, and I can't install a Canadian cluster into your Dodge. I assume it was due to KMH instead of MPH. Anyway, I've had it at this point, so I told the guy I just wanted my truck back, and that I will never be back. Guy ordered (or coincidentally received) the wrong PCM AND the wrong cluster. He seems entirely incompetent. After 3 months and almost $1000 nothing has changed on my truck, the cruise light is still on (always) and doesn't work! I wish I wasn't so dense in this area. Can the cluster really be the issue? Can I get one from a junkyard? Should I keep trying to find one somewhere or can someone just fix the one that I have? Should I put pressure on the dealership to get back some of the money I squandered with them? Thanks for all of the advice! Edited to add: The cluster does not throw any codes when tested.

It's an 01.5 and it is fly by wire. The dealership ordered a PCM, but somewhere along the line there was a mistake and they received a PCM for an automatic transmission. Needless to say, they did not install it, and I have since brought the truck home. I know that I can order a PCM from NAPA for about $450. I think I would still have to have it programmed, and I'm guessing that would cost something like $200 at the dealership. I'm obviously getting into territory I've never been before, and I don't really want to take the truck back to the dealership because they've been so poor up to this point. I appreciate all of the input so far, and thank you for any further advice you may have.

My cruise control light was always staying on, but the cruise didn't work. After much problem solving, I finally took the 2001 Ram 2500 6 speed diesel to the dealer. Trust me, it wasn't my first choice. Anyway, they are telling me that the PCM doesn't know that I ever had a cruise control equipped truck. The tech claims that part of the PCM hard drive is dead. He wants to replace with new total cost of around $1200. Truck ran fine, so I'm debating how much I even want cruise control. Are there cheaper alternatives? Thanks for all the help!

I have a 2001 Ram 2500, 4WD, 6 speed. The cruise control indicator is always displayed on the dash, even before the truck is started. None of the cruise control buttons do anything. So, the cruise isn't working. I took the truck to auto zone and they reported that the truck wasn't throwing any codes. I attempted to contact dripley because he seemed to have this same problem, but his account no longer accepts messages. My best guess is the clock spring. Thanks in advance for any and all help.