trailhead

you can get 4 280 amp hour cells and a BMS for $500 and make your own 12v lithium battery. It’s easier than the ground wire mod. I’m building my second battery now and I’ll say lithium lives up to the hype in my book.

Thanks, I keep learning. Any advice on those filter numbers?

I have the stock filter,also

I had the fass pf-3001 and xws-3002.

My fass started giving me issues yesterday, blowing the 10 amp fuse, so I’m sorting that out. Had about 15000 miles on the filter so I want to change them out. Been reading for a while and my head is swimming. Could I get a recommendation for replacing the 2 filters on the fass and 1 for the stock filter on the 24 valve 2nd gens? Thanks!

Thank you. I was trying to figure out which bulb and I ended up on mopar1973mans YouTube channel. When I watch his video I don’t think the 4wd indicator lights up while doing the test. All of my other lights do which leads me to believe the bulb is good. Autozone just told me they couldn’t get that bulb so I’m hoping I can find one. Anyway here is the video.

Finally getting around to some of the smaller stuff and this one has me stumped. 4x4 works, but the indicator light does not. I’ve checked the switch on the CAD and it works. When I run an instrument cluster check, no light. Advice?

Here’s my 01. Had it 6 years. I grew up with these and the 12 valves on a farm back in Michigan. When it came time for a truck, I knew which ones could take abuse and keep on delivering. That said it’s been a long road getting this one back into spec. Couldn’t have done it without this forum. I’m very grateful.

This article is incredibly well written and very valuable. This site rocks!

Ya. Dealership told me my pcm should be replaced. That didn’t do anything except lighten my wallet.

Replacing my pcm didn’t solve my cruise light issue. Dripley had said it was an Ecm issue and was right. I was told my ecm was for an automatic. Again, you need more technical help than I can provide, but if sharing my experience helps, I’ll do it.

That link should get you moving in the direction of AC noise issues. I’ll keep chiming I with knowledge from my experience but when it cones to procedure, other guys here have incredible expertise, so I have to leave it to them.

Alternating current noise from your alternator. Long story short, after replacing and checking so many things trying to get my cruise control to work correctly, I replaced the Functioning ecm. But the new ones kept failing instantly. After three new ecms I finally replaced the functioning alternator. Haven’t had an electrical problem since. Cruise control works as designed. If you click on my profile you will find the thread where I describe all of this in detail. But yes if you aren’t familiar with AC noise and it’s effects on these trucks and you have electrical issues, you’ve come to the right place. Don’t underestimate the AC noise issue

I struggled with my 01 6 speed cruise control for a long time. The guys here were right all along. I don’t know what’s exactly going on with your truck, but I strongly suggest taking the AC noise problem seriously and do the ground mod. Lots of electrical problems that you would never guess will be resolved right there.

I'm installing the ARP head studs and I got too curious. I was worried a push rod might get in the way of torquing so I pulled up on the one closest to the bumper. Now, when I put it back in, it won't go down all of the way. Do I need to rotate the engine to get it seated all of the way?

I guess I'll have to hitch on and find out. I read somewhere that 16 18 22 24 26 was recommended for RPM Max timing without studs. So I assume when I do the test, I'm looking for numbers to drop from 18ish down to 16ish?

I’ve gone through the tuning process, and I like my boost level fueling curve. I also think I Ike my pump tap parameters, but I’m not sure my stock clutch can handle much wiretap at all. But all of my timing parameters are set to Mike’s economy settings. I’m going to lose sleep about not having ARP studs. I don’t really understand the timing settings, so I need them explained (dummy style) or I need to know how not to exceed recommendations for stock head studs. I’d like to get studs, but I’ve got to get on the road hauling my 7k pound camper here soon and don’t have the time or cash. I’ve done a lot of reading, but I just can’t quite get my head around the technical knowledge of this community yet. Thanks.

My apologies for not understanding this,but when I read the following quotes, I understand them differently. If I set my pump low boost scale psi at 18 (for example) but I set my boost scaling at 20, will my fueling be maxed at 20 psi or at 38? Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels. Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met. Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met. This setting defines the Y axis of the wiretap map, 20 psi means your map range is 0-20 psi 40 psi means the map is 0-40 psi. Keep in mind that your pump low boost scale PSI setting defines what "0psi" is. IE if pump low boost scale is set to 5psi and your boost scaling is set to 20 psi, then the wiretap map will be 5-25 psi. Range of Values: 20 to 40 Default Value: 38 Quadzilla Adrenaline Boost Scaling is the point at which the wiretap will hit 100% wiretap. The lower in the boost number the quicker it reaches 100% wiretap. Basically, in a nutshell Pump Low Boost Scale PSI is the starting boost pressure to start the wiretap and Boost Scaling is the point that wiretap will reach 100%.

Everything is back together. The tunes I downloaded for the quad are working great with the injectors. The new hx35 has delivered 32 pounds of boost and I haven’t even put the pedal to the floor or dialed in the adjustable boost elbow. And I threw on a pac brake for good measure! Truck is a whole new machine. Thanks to you all and this website for getting me through the scrapes over the years!

Got the truck back. No Quadzilla yet. Should be here by the weekend. Did end up getting 07x .010 injectors. Smoke was manageable. Felt quicker. But I’m afraid the injector tip that broke off may have damaged the turbo on its way out. The boost still builds but the turbo sound is nonexistent and what you can hear sounds quite aspirated. Not sure what to make of it. I’ll take it off and look at it but I’m wondering which turbo I should go with. Should I just get another hx35 or is there something that will fit my upgraded setup better?

Spoke with Diesel Auto Power (Mitchell) and ended up with 100 HP injectors and the Quadzilla on the way. Now I've got to learn how to use this Quadzilla.

I appreciate the help and the quick responses. Here's what I'm thinking. Option 1: Stock injectors with a Quadzilla. Maybe that would give me the bump I want when towing. Option 2: Something like the RV 275 injectors and no tuner. Option 3: 07 x 010 with Quadzilla and hope my stock turbo will suffice. Probably will need to get studs. I really just want a reliable truck that can pull my RV around the mountains and will pull a larger RV if I ever upgrade. Thanks for the insights.

Compression test came back 420 for cylinders 1-5 and 450 for cylinder 6. The #6 injector tip is broken. I’ll try to upload a picture. Time to make a final decision on which injectors for increased towing power with a stock turbo.

Injector 6 was in bad shape when they removed it. I believe the word he used was exploded. I’m going to go get a look at it. Doing compression test tomorrow. Thanks for your feedback

I’m going to have it looked at but I am thinking injectors are due for a replacement. I have the FASS platinum lift pump. Stock turbo. It is the high output 6 speed model. I pull a 28 foot camper around the west and sometimes I’d like more power. I’ve read a lot about the quadzilla paired with DAP 7 x 0.010 vco injectors. Would this be good with a stock turbo? I’m not addicted yet, so I don’t really want to upgrade a bunch of components. But if I need new injectors and a quadzilla I’m wondering which injectors to get? I have been searching for an old thread I read last year on here where mopar1973man and me78569 were discussing injectors and it seemed like 0.010 was a great size for a range of purposes if you had the quadzilla to tune it correctly. Advice?