Bobalos

One of the race teams I worked on we had one just like that. it worked well for a while, then it started getting cranky.... it was leaking @ the bottom where it comes out because of the hard bend it has to coil up the hose. then we cut it & put it back in & then it would not prime because the pump in the handle was getting worn out. Then it was leaking @ the fill cap because the gasket was getting cracked.... And it held enough gas that it was kind of hard to maneuver around with the smallish sized wheels......... that would be ideal, however Im already pushing it with the trailer........... its super old & I dont want to put another 300 Lbs into it. Im trying to take weight out of it in fact. thanks again folks, I guess I will keep searching craigslist & offerup. something is bound to come up.

Is that shipped??? Thats likely 1/2 of what the dealership would want for it. ROFLOL. I dont call them unless I HAVE to. dealing with them is a PITA..........

I saw one of those on CraigsList, I wonder how well they work. I guess I could get a couple of them.....

Morning Gents, As you guys might or might not know, I use my truck to tow my enclosed trailer out to the desert to ride in our dune buggy. I just bought a new buggy that consumes QUITE a bit more fuel than the last one did. I was getting away with 20 gallons/weekend, but this is not getting it any longer. so......... what Im looking for are options to take gas out with us. In a perfect world, it would be ~30 Gallons. fit across the front of the bed under the rear window. be removable, so I dont lose more space in an already too short bed when we are not out in the desert. have a pump & hose so I could fill up the buggy w/o having to transfer fuel from it to jugs to the buggy. be super cheap, because Im a cheap ***. I thought about another fuel tank that would go on the other side of the truck from the OEM Tank, however it occurred to me that the exhaust is there & I kind of need to have that. LOL. Ive never had anything like this, so anyone with practical experience would be appreciated. it seems pretty straight forward, but ................ thanks Bob

I know this is kind of silly, but Im looking for the rubber plug that goes into the rear bumper where the tow ball goes through (the Center of the 3 holes). its a 1" hole that is pretty much straight down so a normal plug will not fit. The part that goes down into the hole has to be kind of long to wedge into the hole. I have probably spent entirely too much time searching through amazon, McMaster, Grainger, etc. trying to find a Plug/Grommet/etc, to go into this hole. Its just ugly w/o it....... LOL. Any suggestions on where I can find this? thanks Bob

No body???

No, I seem to come by it naturally. some days Im much "better" @ it than others. LOL. No doubt.......... there are more posts in this thread than the actual thread where I asked a serious question. ROFLOL. He better use some Thompsons water seal. Its washington for goodness sake, not Kalipornia......

Do any of you guys have pressure sensor monitors on your trailers so that you can monitor them from in the cab of your truck? what have you used? what works well? thanks Bob

Im being a moron today........ thanks Bob

@Dieselfuture, not that Im aware of. the one I was looking @ was on Amazon & it was a round gauge that plugged into the cig lighter. but..................... that would be cool. this is kind of what it looked like. Bob

Thanks. I'm thinking about getting one of those Bluetooth things that displays the tire pressure of the tires on the trailer and one I was looking at looked just like that. Another topic for a different thread.... Thanks Bob

You guys are freaken awesome. This reminds me of a forum I used to go on 10+ years ago, that grew too big for its britches. Looks like I have some more reading material for the exercise bike time in the morning (the only quite time of the day. LOL). thanks again. Bob @Mopar1973Man, what is that gauge just in front of your short shifter? thanks bob

thanks Gents, I think I have a direction now. not sure how far it will get me, but it will get me moving in some direction. to be honest, Im not looking for any more power, the thing works just fine. Id just like to be able to use it all & with the EGT's up there where it is, its not usable. thanks Bob BTW, ....... I looked into that Quadzilla & I have to say the marketing on the diesel stuff sucks.......... (not just the Quadzilla stuff) the information they give you & what they do & do not tell you is terrible. in small print it says "screen not included". does that mean that the thing in the red circle does not come with it?? what the hell is the thing in the picture? it looks like an I-Phone. If that does not come with it , then what the hell am I supposed to use? what are the specs on the "screen" that Im supposed to use with it? @ the top it says "Desired Tune". My answer to that would be "the right one" or "the best tune possible for my truck".............. How am I supposed to know? or better yet, how are they supposed to know? Down further it says "Adrenaline devices will now ship with the V2 Tuning for adrenaline standard". does that counter the selection I made above that does not make any sense to me? I guess I need to search through Youtube & see if anyone there has one in a truck that explains what it does & how it does it........... that should set me back another 2 or 3 hours trying to figure out if it is what I want/need........ [\rant]

@notlimah, yes that is a picture of my turbo & that little mechanism works pretty darn well. I did not want to get the boost any higher than 25 lbs, which is where I set it to. if I crank the nut down to the bottom of the adjuster I can get it up to 27 or 28, but it really needs a stronger spring, to run up @ 30 & be adjustable. The thing I dont like about it is that the motor has to be up in the RPM's (>2100) for it to have that kind of boost. I used a boost elbow quite some time ago & the boost was not repeatable. it would be one thing one day & another thing another day & it would creep all over the place, going down the road & what I thought was a steady load. Maybe I was doing something wrong or it was plugged up or something, dunno for sure. maybe I should try it again & see what happens. I bought one of the adjustable WG linkages some time ago, but have not made the time to try it out. I suppose I should get off of my butt & do that & see where it takes me. Do you think if I get the boost up towards 30Lbs that would help out the EGT issue? thanks again folks Bob

yes & no. I replaced all of the boots a couple of years ago & did not find anything stupid then, however I dont really know if the IC is leaking or not. Im not sure how I would do that other than to remove it & have it pressure tested. I suppose I could disconnect the boots & make some kind of caps & do a leak check on it. How much leak is OK over what period of time? thanks Bob

Right now Im @ 24Lbs of boost, with the RPM's up >2000 RPM & the load on the motor high-ish. Do you think that getting more boost out of it, lower in the RPM band would help the EGT issue? IIRC the turbo that is in it now, is pretty efficient up to 30 - 34 Lbs, then it starts to drop off. would I see EGT Gains by taking the boost up to 30 Lbs? the AR on the turbine larger on the HX compared to the HY? what is different between them that the HX is a better choice?? Here is the issue with the Quadzilla, with what just happened to Jegs the other day, Im sure they wont even ship it into CA and I would have to take it out every time I take it into get it smog checked or risk having to take it back another day. Who knows...... Depends on where I take it....... some look & some dont. I got a bunch of **** for having a disconnected pump on my frame rail a few years ago........ I told him to trace the lines & he could see that the in went to the out......... *CARB NOTICE: QUADZILLA TUNERS AND ELECTRONICS ARE NOT FOR SALE OR USE IN CALIFORNIA AND OTHER CARB STATES. thanks for the options I appreciate the input!!! Bob @01cummins4ever, sounds like you & I are in the same area. your obviously towing more than I am, and have a bit more truck than I do. Id like to be able to get back to not being @ the mercy of every Semi on the road.... Bob

Mike, Ive often thought about putting a box in it, however................ Im in the republic of Kalipornia, & not only do I have to "smog" the truck every 2 years, if I get pulled over they can do an "onsite visual inspection" which if they find anything questionable, they can force me to go visit the "smog experts" who will determine if I have modified it w/o CARB exemption............. so....... My options are a Smarty & hope that it actually does not modify the Check Sum so when they plug into the ALDL @ the smog check it will not set off any warnings, or put an Quazilla product in it & remove it every time I goto get it smogged & again hope it has not modified anything to set off the smog computer. I dont know why, but I thought of the OEM turbo's the one on my 99 was the better of them. does the HX look just like the HY so they would not get suspicious??? 015point9, Yes............ West is definitely worse than east. I got 10 MPG going east & 9.25 going west. Mind you when I was going west, it was presidents day weekend & the wind was for the most part going directly east, which made the truck super mad. once I got into the mountains, it changed to a cross breeze, which made the motor more happy, but looking in the side mirror & seeing the side of the trailer REALLY sucked............. For those that have not seen it, here is my rig..... they are both old & heavy...... And FWIW......... this is my new buggy (the blue one), I have not weighed it yet, but its pretty portly. Certainly much heavier than the Vee Wee based one we used to have (actually still have if anyone wants to buy a buggy........). and, BTW, that is my son & his GF, Im a good bit older than that. LOL.

I agree with you guys, Im not pushing anything right now. However as it stands now, Im standing on an egg & keeping the throttle very steady. if I come up on slow traffic Im hosed. on this drive, I have to keep the momentum up & be able to pass the slow trucks (20 to 30 MPH) or Im completely hosed. Im SURE that if I was not careful with the gas peddle I could be @ or over 1300 w/o too much effort. 1175 to 1200 is where I start to get itchy. I dont mind it for 20 or 30 seconds, but longer than that & I either back out of it, or knock it down a gear (if Im in OD I go down to 3rd. if Im in 3rd, I just simply slow down). Im looking to give myself a little more breathing room. The only place to go from 3rd is to second & the MPH would drop a LOT & the converter will not lock up in 2nd so the trans fluid would get darn hot........... I forgot that I do have a boost fooler in the truck (went through 4 different brands before I found one that actually worked & would not set the CEL). Years ago I bought a boost elbow & did not like the way it worked in the RPM range & that it would creep all over the place, so I made my own boost adjuster & while it works well, I have to rev the motor up to get it to give me boost > 20 Lbs. I recently bought an adjustable WG linkage that I have yet to put onto the truck. just been too busy with other things. Maybe its time to pull the turbo off & put this guy on there............ ideally I could get more boost down lower in the RPM band. I did some searching around & it does not appear that anyone has posted about H2O injection in quite some time. Does anyone know of anyone using it to knock down EGT's for short spurts??? thanks again folks. Bob and FWIW, if any of you guys have driven from San Diego to Arizona on the 8 freeway, this is the drive Im talking about. its 0 to 4200' & back down again. there are a good number of 1000' climbs & drops in there once you get towards the top of the mountain. Im guessing Im right @ 10,000 to 10,500 in the trailer. In the I have 4 bodies, full tank of fuel, 40 gallons of gas & 10 gallons of water in the bed.

after I saved the post I realized that my signature was not quite complete. Nothing special about this truck simply replacement parts. the only thing not stock is the 275 injectors & the Blue Chip pump (which is a replacement pump with a little more timing for mileage). When I have it in OD, on the flat lands its running around 2000 RPM @ 65 to 70 MPH & around 900* to 1000* When Im headed over the mountain I drop it down into 3rd & for the most part its @ around 2100 RPM & around 900* When I get into those 2 or 3 spots where the incline really shoots up there, I put my foot into it & it stays around 2000 to 2200 RPM but the EGT's get upwards of 1200* or so. thanks Bob

I just got a new Dune Buggy that is a good bit larger/heavier than my old one, & the last time I came went out to the desert I noticed that my EGT's were a big higher than they used to be. There are only a few 1/2 mile to 1 mile long stretches that it really gets up there & this last time I just simply took my foot out of it & slowed the whole rig down. that REALLY kills the momentum going over the mountain though........... Id like to get some ideas of what you guys have used to reduce EGT's. thanks Bob

Gotcha. Thanks. I guess the first thing I need to do is remove the radio and find the part number. Bob

Is that infinity write up here on this forum? does the infinity radio look exactly like yours? thanks Bob

I found this article here about the Aux input, but it has me a bit confused.... when I look @ these pictures, the radio that is being modified looks exactly like mine, so Im assuming that its the same one as the only other one I have seen is a single height radio, not like the one in the article above. Also the article mentions, " I did see a write-up on here for the Infinity system, but not the cd/cassette Chrysler radio". This has me confused. I have had the door panels off of my truck & it does have the infinity speakers in the doors with the Amps bolted to them. I assumed that this meant that the radio is also an infinity as well. is this not the case? it appears from the pictures in the write up, that he is soldering the wires for the jack to the pins on an input connector that is on the back of the radio. is that true? If it is true, cant I just plug into that connector that is on the back of the radio?? thanks Bob

thanks for the suggestions!! I went by the AC place today & he diagnosed it (by smacking it with a flashlight, LOL). it is the one on the firewall. He said that he has had issues with the Napa ones off & on over the years, but has never had an issue with the OEM ones. There is a cummins place here in town, I will give them a ring. IIRC, they are $50 or $60 EA. I over torqued 2 of them the first time I put injectors in this. not sure why this one is leaking. I guess I could have done it again....... I would like to know of an online source I can rely on to get OEM dodge stuff...... Bob

Good afternoon folks, I need to by a cycling switch for the AC for my 99 (and it would appear a injection line for #3. ). There are a bunch of places online that have their little look up tool & they all say that they have good prices, but I have NO idea where to even start. First off none of their websites say if they have the part in stock, and some of them dont even say what state they are located in. A bunch of them are located in the eastern time zone, which is not of itself a bad thing, but........ trying to be cost conscious on shipping, I would prefer to find someone here on the west coast or @ least in the pacific time zone......... So........ any suggestions??? thanks Bob