Bobalos

I did the entire bottom of my hood & as much of the interior floor as I could & it did not make much of a difference. If I ever pulled the engine out I would do behind the factory one, it would have to come out to do it. I used a "DynoMat" type product. it is the "asphalt" type, but not the super stinky version. its the less stinky version. LOL. in the first month I could smell it on super hot days, after that I have not smelled it @ all. did it help................... I dont know. It certainly did not make it any worse, but it did not make it a bunch better either. Worth the time & effort........... maybe, what was on the bottom of the hood was falling off & had to go before it got wrapped up in the fan. LOL.

I just wanted to say Merry Christmas to everyone & to say thanks to everyone for the help the last few months. Yall are an amazing resource w/o all of the drama & "internet commandos" that come with all of the larger forums. Mike you have an amazing group of tech folks here & super cool "normal members" like myself. thanks!! Bob BTW.............. it was 32* here in San Diego when I got into the car this morning @ 5:15......... too cold for my thing blood. LOL.

I think the blend door is sticking. I hooked it up last night & when I go from hot to cold it only moves about 1/16th of a revolution. I seem to recall that it should move 1/3rd. Im going to take the motor off tonight (assuming its not raining again) & see if I cant figure out whats going on. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Bob

I just did this & it was very helpfull. I just put my HVAC box back on the firewall & am swapping the dash & wrapping up a few small things. the only thing I wish I had done before I started on this was to put the temp selector in the middle so that it would have run the blend door to the middle. having it all the way parked made it kind of hard to put the two 1/2's of the box back together, especially with new seals on the Evap. it was hard to tell if I was just compressing the seals or binding the box on the blend door. It also bound up the blend door. I had to remove the servo & bust it loose with a wrench. And FWIW, while I had it all out I leak tested all 3 vacuum pods with my hand held vacuum. I think I took them to 10 in-hg for 10 minutes each. Also I replaced the vacuum line that goes through the firewall & across the back side of the HVAC box flush with the firewall. That tube was VERY brittle & it would have been a bummer to have pulled it all out again to replace that tube. One other thing..... On the bottom of the dash under the steering wheel, there is a sheet metal support that goes across from one side of the dash to the other. DONT remove that. I know this instruction does not say to remove it, however there are others out there that do. I removed it thinking I would need the room for the steering shaft & the dash bent in the middle & cracked all of the plastic that holds the temp control panel into the dash. Not sure how Im going to fix this now. thanks again for this instructional & the video. Bob

I was talking about my hand held vacuum pump to test these vacuum pods. I'm know where that one is, I just replaced it and dammit was that expensive..... Lol. I think I have everything I need now. I can't find anything to replace the seal that goes around the heater core and evap tubes... It's a semi soft rubber sheet. I might have something at work that might work. Thanks Bob

Thanks!! Now if I could only find my vacuum pump.....

I have the HVAC box out and the foam seals on the doors and duct joints are all rotten. Anyone have any luck getting this kind of stuff at the hardware store or auto parts store? I was thinking maybe a fabric store like Jo Ann's or similar.... Also if hat about this vacuum line?? Is it just plastic tubing? I would imagine it should be kind of heat resistant as it's right above the turbo and exhaust. Also what about this vacuum line?? Is it just plastic tubing? I would imagine it should be kind of heat resistant as it's right above the turbo and exhaust.

I out the heater treater coupling in a couple of years ago. I assumed that was what was my heater issue. It was not. Thanks I did not know there was a cabin filter retrofit... I will have to look into that. Thanks. I will pull the HVAC box out tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks.

When I get it all out, I will draw up a vacuum diagram. I have just about everything ready to come out, I have to get ready to goto dinner. When I disconnected the vacuum line @ the firewall by the PCM the hose that goes through the firewall @ the AC lines broke. kind of looks like it was cracked where it broke. I wonder if that was not part of my strange ducting behavior........... thanks Bob

I got them lose, just had to crank on them (harder than I thought I should have had too.........)

Im having a hard time getting the AC lines apart. I have the tool to push the spring back,but the lines are not coming apart. I had the system evacuated & all of the freon removed. I have double checked & there is no pressure or vacuum in the lines. its like they are glued in. I dont want to crank on these things real hard, but............. seems like I have too. These are the tools that Im using...... I also have a few others, but these fit the large AC lines. any tips on getting these apart? thanks folks, Im 10 seconds into this project & pissed off............ Bob

Evening Folks, I probably should have posted this up a couple of weeks ago, but it just occured to me. Im fixin to pull the HVAC box out & replace the heater core & AC core (& replace the dash & fix the EGT gauge), & figured while I had it all out I should check the vacuum pods under there. I saw from Mikes video that there is one directly on the HVAC box, but I dont know if there are other ones up under the dash (I would suspect there are as there is a bunch of vacuum lines connected together in the middle of the dash). How do you test them? apply X amount of vacuum & it should hold that for Y period of time? or is it enough that if I apply vacuum & it moves through its entire stroke then its good?? Also, is there a vacuum diagram for this truck? I looked through my shop manual & could not find one & I figured there would be one under the hood, but there is not... thanks folks. Bob

Yes, that is the one that I bought. I also had to get the long/tapped banjo bolt so that I could put the fitting for the fuel pressure transducer into it. and FWIW, I did not have any issues with mine. I cracked the top when I was putting a fitting in to do some troubleshooting. the only thing I didn't like was that you had to take the whole bowl out when you were replacing the filter, the drop in one seems like a better idea, however I dont did the plastic top, I dont like the feel of how it tightens up. I cant tell if its tight or not. Bob

Which filter housing do you have? I just installed the 2000 housing retrofit from Genos in my truck & every once in a while I get a whiff of fuel, but I cant seem to figure out where its coming from............ the plastic cap in the metal housing seems like a potential place for a leak, but everything looks good......... Bob

Into my lift pump/raising the bed, article? Bob

Yes, you just push the extractor into the connector from the "front" & it folds the latches in enough to slide the pin out of the back. Sorry but I dont know what type of connectors those are. Im pretty sure that the rest of the stuff on the truck are Deutsch connectors, but I dont know what Bosch uses on the VP. Here are some examples. http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connectors/deutsch_dt_series_connectors/ I did find this on another Diesel forum, however I could not find the pins with a google search. Here is a part number list for the Vp44 7pin connector along with the terminals, terminal remover tool, and the inspection gauge. All can be picked up at your local Cummins dealer.VP44 AMP Connector Part Number# 3162737Inspection Gauge (Used to check for spreading in the terminals) Part Number# 3164980Terminal Remover (Used to remove the AMP terminals in the VP44 connector)Part Number# 3162738VP44 Replacement Terminals 14AWG Part Number# 3162730VP44 Replacement Terminals 18AWG Part Number# 3162731

that almost looks like a Delphi Weather Pack pin. I wonder if the Weather Pack extraction tool will work on it. I would guess so.

thanks. Bob

VERY cool. I wonder if they are going to do a single pump version? the built in regulator is nice. thanks Bob

John, I have a few questions about the in tank pumps & was hoping you would be able to fill in some gaps. I have done a bunch of searching around & cant seem to find the answers Im looking for........... 1. When did Dodge start putting the lift pumps into the tank @ the factory? (04?) 2. Are they all the same from whenever they started (04?) to 2017? 3. Is the factory in tank pump for the later model trucks the same pump as is in the "in tank retrofit" (Mine is a 99 & I have the Carter P76473M. 4. It appears that the long bed trucks have different "assemblies" (pump, sending unit, bypass) than the short bed units. what is the difference? (just the dept?). 5. You said that "they last a long time", as a rough WAG, how long is that? 50K, 100K, 150K? thanks Bob @AH64ID

I just did some searching around & found this in the banner on their home page, but cant find any details about it. It almost looks like a dual pump setup with a return on the side of the manifold that dumps back into the pump pickup area. Makes me wonder if they expect that an external bypass regulator is going to be used.......... Bob

I looked @ the one I pulled out a little bit closer & that is exactly what it is. turn it over & its very hard to get air to go in or out, turn it right side up & its very easy to go both ways.

Oh shoot. Gotcha. I didnt realize that it organized them per user. thanks. Bob

I dont know what this means..

Done. I meant to edit the pictures, but the only thing on this computer is paint & its a PITB...... I had to make the pictures smaller so I would not go over the upload limit. Hope you like it. Bob