Rotket

It was 1100 dollars for a new cover and gaskets with the seals and quoted 8 hours. Honestly I should have taken the time to do it myself, I have the ability and tools. I should have ran when the diesel tech tried to explain to me how my trucks common rail fuel injection system works.

hmmm. Couldnt find anything loose around the vp44. I'll just take it back up there tomorrow i guess.

Ok, will check connections today. Would any of this trigger a CEL?

I had the stealership replace my tappet cover gasket (I know, bad idea but time is money) and now its surging/ having delayed fueling when stepping on the gas. Also feels like it wants to die when releasing the clutch from a stop. What do you think they messed up for me to be having these issues? Im thinking timing from removing the injection pump. I'm bringing it back but I want to be prepared for whatever excuse they'll spin me. Thanks

Interesting. Is this type of failure prone to happen on the nv5600 as well?

Thanks for the input everyone. If it keeps bothering me ill put an aftermarket intake with a closed in box on the fender like stock. Maybe that'll muffle it.

Its just hard to believe its the exact same sound even after the injectors were changed. Ill just keep running it and being vigilant. I've done all I could to make sure it's not something catastrophic.

I can hear it more prominently through the air box, but the intake probably just isolates noise better. I don't know, I've been driving it every day for 6 years and it definitely seems noisier since last winter. Maybe I'm the one getting old. I guess if everything checks out I keep truck in, ive don't everything I could, the only other thing is the injection pump, but don't want to change that because of noise.

A little while ago i posted about an engine knocking/pulsating sound. I changed injectors and adjusted valves and the noise is still there. The engine is definitely more rattly since I first got the truck 6 years ago. I also got an oil test and everything came back ABOVE average. Has the same amount of blowby as it always had at operating temp. Where do I go from here after doing all of this? Is there an engine condition that wouldn't show up on an oil test? Can an injection pump thats going out cause noises? Where do I go from here? Video below to hear what you guys think. 20190713_105753.mp4

I got the engine lift bracket off but these back lines still aren't budging. I might just start taking the lines off individually even though it'll be a pain to put back together.

I've removed all of the bolts on the intake cover that i could see that hold down the lines. Are there bolts behind the engine hoist that I wouldnt see unless I could take it off?

I'm having trouble removing the back 3 injector lines. Not from the head but the brackets holding them down on the deck. Do I need to remove the engine lift bracket to do this, because those bolts wont budge. Where exactly are these bolts located that hold down these lines? Thanks

Yea mine does that but the left one is stuck on there. I think I might have mis aligned the spines when I put the arm back on last time or something

No sir, started to get dark so I wiped some rain x and called it. Going to have to look at it again this weekend, but pretty sure I'm going to need a puller for the left arm. The right arm came off easy like you said.

My driver arm seems to be seized on the splines. I think I might need to get a puller. I had them off before I must have messed up the spines on that one.

Yes ive take them off before, but that was with the motor working so I could turn it off and on until I got the right angle to clear the hood for the wipers to go all the way up. How do I go about doing this without being able to turn the wipers on?

My trucks wipers dont work, when you turn the switch it just blows the fuse. I was going to verify its the wiper motor but the wipers are stuck down, and you have to have the passenger arm up to clear the hood so that you can release tension on the arm. Any tips on gettings these arms off without being able to lift them up and any thoughts on what could be wrong here? Thanks

No I bought a new one from the parts store, but I thought you were talking about one that would insure the elements better.

It actually was the relay. Could you link me to a protective relay for the fass system? Thanks man

Nevermind my fass is intermittently working and now its just dead... Great. Anything I can check on the system besides the relay and grounds?

If my truck sits for a couple days I get surging and erratic idle when I first start it. Fass seems to show the proper fuel pressure? Leaking injectors?

Yea i don't think dodge designed this door hinge to be removal, there's even insulation you have to poke through to get to the bolt hole. Even after taking all of the bolts out of the brake assembly and removing the pull lever rod, there's still not enough room to stick a ratchet up with a very small extension, which is what you need because the bolt is too far back in the hole. I could go over the assembly if it came down enough, but it doesn't. I'll probably have to figure out how to take the brake assembly all the way out, aka removing it from the cable that routes below the cab and into the rear parking drum. I'v never had so much trouble over something so silly ha. It's amazing that cummins thinks of all the little ways to make engine work easier, but chrysler makes it a nightmare for basic stuff like this.

I finally got the rod off but that bolt that's in the cab that goes to the upper hinge is still impossible to get to. Any tips?

Alright I found the last bolt, but how do you take off the rod that goes to the pull lever? It has a plastic clip but I don't see how it releases.

How do i take this thing off? I took off the back 2 bolts but there seems like there's still something holding it on besides the cable. Also how do i take the cable off the latch? I'm doing this so that i can access that top bolt to replace the door hinge. I need my door back on so any help is appreciated. thank you,