dodgedieselnewbie

Well... the problem is not resolved. Again.. no problems when I first start out each day. The more driving/braking the worse it gets.. and I try to go as easy as I can on the brakes. Shudder is there and they become more grabby. Pulling into my development just rolling 5-10mph.. the rears will lock up when I hit the pedal firmly but not stomping on it at all. I pulled into my driveway and immediately got out to loosen the fitting like Hag suggested.. again just a trickle. The drums are not hot either.. warm enough that I can keep my hand on them. I'm so disgusted and don't know what to do. :-(

Tyler.. do you remember what box and setting were you running when it got hot?

Is the he351 a drop in for me.. with no additional parts or modifications needed? Is it gated?

I'm not sure how many miles are on it. Meeting this weekend to take a look, drive and discuss. Asking price is $500 or $700 with some DDP 100hp injectors (with 10,000 miles on em). Don't know a thing about DDP injectors or whether I want that size?

This past weekend was the first camping trip of the season... and first hauling since a lot work was done over the winter. First thing.. With new track bar and Redhead.. It was such a pleasure to not have 2 inches of play in the steering wheel while pulling the camper! Secondly, the deep trans pan and gauge is a nice addition. Although I have no idea what the temp was before.. the temp never rose above 135 towing and it's nice to be able to monitor it. Third.. I am finding this Smarty to be an improvement for my application over the Edge Comp Drag. Where I could easily/quickly see high boost and EGT temps with the Edge last year... not so with the Smarty (even coupled with the newly added 50hp injectors). Set to Catcher 3 with torque 1, timing 2 and duration 3... I could not get the EGTs to touch the 1200 mark through the rolling hills of MD & PA... pushing it up a hill in overdrive 1125 was the highest. So.. I am very happy with how it's currently performing! Can you believe it Nick? Finally.. But... Like most, I'd like a little more... I have the opportunity to pick up an Aurora 3000. I know ATS turbos are not a fan favorite and there is newer technology.. but I have been happy with this little 2K and have grown accustomed to a non gated turbo. Will I be able to achieve similar results with the 3K... if coupled with the appropriate injectors? How do you determine which injectors would be best? Will it dramatically change how the truck handles? Or should I not mess with a good thing?

Don't know exactly what the problem was.. Everything is new back there.. so not sure what fixed it. Appears the larger cylinders were just too much for my application.

No issues braking with the camper.. miles there and back 80 miles ... and just did a 40 mile round trip without the camper. Everything seems okay.. Thanks for everyone's help! `

HI Hag.. Makes sense about the drums being cut and the shoes maybe not meeting the same now. By reshaping... are you referring to the "bedding" procedure? Front brakes are definitely working.. as there is more brake dust than I care see and clean off the rims. :-) I drove around town today with light braking and all seems well.. no shudder. Getting ready to head out with the camper... see how it goes. Will keep you posted.. Thanks and have a great weekend (everyone)!!!!

HI Hag.. Makes sense about the drums being cut and the shoes maybe not meeting the same now. By reshaping... are you referring to the "bedding" procedure? Front brakes are definitely working.. as there is more brake dust than I care see and clean off the rims. :-) I drove around town today with light braking and all seems well.. no shudder. Getting ready to head out with the camper... see how it goes. Will keep you posted.. Thanks and have a great weekend (everyone)!!!!

Today... inspected all mechanical parts (everything new) and all seemed okay.. Nothing was sticking/binding. Removed 1 ton cylinders and installed new 2500 wheel cylinders. Took it for a drive.. 15-20 minutes working the brakes... they started out fine and slowly developed a shudder.. not as terrible but a noticeable shudder. They are not super grabby and no lock up or ABS kicking in. So.. there is improvement. My mechanic seems to think the drums just need turning again. We jacked the truck up as soon as we returned to see if there was too much pressure.. but the wheels turned freely and when the bleeders were broken loose.... just a dribble came out. I hope to goodness... it's just in the drums!

Thanks a million for the info Hag.! see what happens after I swap cylinders again and flush the fluid. Will try what you suggest if it happens again. YTB Edit.. oops.. forgot my question.. so if #2.. too much residual pressure.. how do you determine how that's happening? Do I start replacing a component at a time? First being hoses.. then proportion valve.. next master cylinder? Edit #2... also.. how would the tubing or hoses affect or bring too much residual pressure? Would that mean they may be collapsing or swelling?

Hag.. the height adjustment valve and rod have been deleted and bypass hose installed.

What do you mean?

I only get abs and brake light when disconnected...

Thanks. Don't know about tires. I will try unplugging the ABS and see what happens.

I'm not disagreeing with the recommendation of putting the prop valve back in... but doesnt there seem to be something else going wrong if lots of others have done the same mods without issue? The are plenty of 99s with rear drums (one locally) without issues. Just doesnt make sense... hopefully I still have what was removed

This morning took truck out for 10-15 minute drive.. applying brakes a dozen times.. no problems. So it's something to do with when it gets heated up and seems to build too much pressure... ? Help.. suggestions welcomed. Replace master cylinder? Front proportioning valve? What else? Could a brake controller cause an issue if wires are crossed up? One was put in a few weeks ago.. I guessing no but I'm trying to think of anything.

I dunno.. I will repost here what I posted at CF.. My questions are these...I have searched and found that everyone is happy with either/or the proportioning valve bypass and... the larger cylinders. Why is mine a problem?Why is it only happening after extended driving... after things heat up? First thing in the morning and my local stop to stop it's not a problem.. It drove beautifully for a couple of days and then came back... why??? Here's a quote from from an old post over there from Mike "As for the rear lines I say replace all the lines and you can ditch the rear proportioner and just direct plumb the the rear brakes. Later in time Dodge discontinued that whole system, like on my truck is direct plumbed in 2002."

Because it has been touted as a fantastic mod for better rear braking? Along with the Chevy cylinders... ?

I'm starting get really upset... my rear brakes are still giving me issues. History... Back in January I had the rear cylinders swapped out to the Chevy 1 ton and the rear proportioning valve bypass. Also had new shoes installed. All seemed well up until about a month ago. My work is seasonal so things picked up a month ago.. so more driving and braking began. It seems the warmer the brakes (fluid?) get.. the worse they get. Recently had the rear drums turned, new spring kit and adjusters installed. The shudder is back and progressively getting worse each day.. and again the more use they see throughout the day.. the worse the shudder. They also become extremely touchy (grabby) and the antilock is kicking in kind of easily. I have not read any negative feedback on the larger cylinder upgrade or the proportioning valve bypass... So.. kind of stumped here. I brought it to my mechanic and he test drove... when he came back he was shocked at how grabby, shuddery <--- for lack of a better word and how easily the antilock kicked in. He suggested to go back to the stock sized cylinders to see if that helps. Could the front proportioning valve be the problem? How do you tell.. or test? What else can it be?

Well then.. I'll let it be for awhile and see how it acts. Thanks Mike

Right now it is working fine at .527 but will try to adjust lower.. Kind of ironic tho.. that I was getting a TPS low voltage code and you want it as low as possible?? :-)

What a difference a new APPS makes.. Installed a new Wells VE Apps today. Everything went smoothly including removing the torx screws which I've read can be PITA. I checked voltage and I got .527 which is within the .5 - .6 Should I try to get it higher towards .6? Short test drive and everything seems smooth.. no more surging and shifts are not as harsh. No more TPS code or CEL. Yay!

Well.. I'm getting a CEL now and had a light surge thing going on... guess a new apps in order..

Got drums cut, new spring kit and adjusters.. lubed everything.. and all seems fine. Smoothest braking since ownership. Hoping there will be less brake dust (especially pass side) up front with the installation of the new soft lines.. time will tell. Thanks everyone!!