crf450ish

No kidding. Myself and dozens of guys have pondered the reasons behind why refineries put certain requirements in place. The only thing we've come up with regarding this particular question is their trying to remove as much doubt as possible...

We'll be moving to Chandler, AZ in the near future and I never ever thought about fuel temps.

Reduces co efficient of friction so as to achieve the most accurate torque.

I tried to reply but it's not showing up. Idk what's going on.

I haven't read the installation directions (yet). That makes sense. What's your opinion on using anti seize on head studs? Only asking because in refineries we use anti seize on mild carbon steel studs on heat exchanger caps as well as piping flange connection bolts. Refineries require anti seize on the threads, both sides of the washers and both sides of the nut. This is to reduce the co efficient of friction in an effort to achieve the proper torque spec. I've always been taught to NEVER use anti seize on any engine component fasteners, except exhaust manifold fasteners.

Why not do a hot torque?

Oh jeez, I'm just going to replace it. Heck, it's nearly 8 years old and served me well. Besides I'm installing a new one (Fass 165) right before I install a ton of supporting mods for my compounds build. New DFI 7x.010 injectors. I will be sending my one back to be rebuilt so I can wrap it up in a bag and stick it under my back seat as a spare.

I don't have any pictures of my draw straw in the tank, but it's been working flawlessly since the day I installed my fass pump, draw straw and new VP nearly 8 years ago. I used the 2 nickels stacked on each other method when I installed my draw straw. Somewhere on another forum buried deep in the comments I read that's how you measure the proper length so as to account for the "sag" the fuel tank will have when full of fuel. Like a couple others have said, I too use the 1/4 tank mark as empty, therefore I like to fill up before it gets to 1/4. However, there's been a handfull of

Same here. It's been wire tapped since the day I installed it nearly 8 years ago and fed with a fass150 (that's about to go out). Can't say enough good things about my VP44 from @dieselautopower.

Thanks for the info.

@Mopar1973Man I tried the method in your article. Followed it to a T. Same result. I ordered a vacuum bleeder and am waiting for it to show up in the mail. Probably shoulda done your method first.... Never ever had an issue bleeding brakes in my life.

So apparently the method I used is way incorrect when dealing with the ABS system on my truck. The proper way to bleed the brakes on my particular truck is for the helper at the brake pedal to NOT pump the brakes at all, but rather begin to depress the brake pedal and tell the guy at the caliper to open the bleeder valve. Onece the pedal is at the floor, the helper keeps the pedal pressed down while the other guy closes the bleeder, pedal should come back up on its own. Repeat this process starting at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. The way that I did it

Hey guys I can't get the brakes to stiffin up at the pedal. Installed brand new rear calipers and rotors and pads. Haven't touched the front yet, that's next weekend project. But I have followed the correct process to a T. This is the process my dad and I used: Engine off- 1.Starting at the passenger rear, Dad pumped the brakes until they are firm as they could get and I cracked the bleeder valve and closed it when dad said close- pedal 3/4 way to floor. BLEEDER VALVE CLOSED AS THE PEDAL WAS STILL MOVING TOWARDS FLOOR, so as to not allow any air to enter the system.

Is it a good idea to wrap the exhaust manifold with exhaust wrap? The stainless diesel manifolds, being stainless, really hang onto the heat once the engine is shut down. At face value, it seems to me that properly wrapping the manifold will eliminate a lot of residual heat once the engine is shut off. However, in every single under the hood picture I've seen on here and cumminsforum as well as Instagram and other social media, not once has there been a manifold wrapped with exhaust wrap. So that begs the question, what am I missing?

Check for power going to your fuel pump. I have a fass..not sure if Air Dog is the same, but when I turn my key on and bump the starter but not start it, my fass pump kicks on and primes. That's the first thing I would do. Once you eliminate that as a possibility, check for air in the fuel. I'm not entirely sure how to go about doing that other than spinning the fuel filter off of the Air Dog pump and literally looking in the filter. If it's even remotely not plumb full of fuel, there's issues. I hope some others chime in and send suggestions. I'm not too good at this stuff unles