hawkeye213

I put a new rear seal in a while back. Is the P 0500 that rear speed sensor or something. Is there a list of codes here I can look at.

Do the codes mean anything to you? I Think I read somewhere that you can't have a 1693 code all by itself.Thanks Rob

I just put in a new tranny and replaced my clutch awhile back. Did alot of research on clutches and reading. I know your trying to save money but if you do any pulling of any kind don't cheap out on your clutch get a south bend and I would also get the heavy duty hydraulic clutch to go with it. Just my 2 cents.Thanks Rob

mopar this is driving me crazy. This is such a simple system to diagnose. LOL you keep coming back to the heater core. I do not mean to be hardheaded and I take your and the others advice seriously. But the part I don't understand is why the heat works so good sometimes. It was definitely cold here Sat morn 14 with a nice windchill but it has been just as cold when the heater worked perfect. To remove the heater core is a chore for sure but I would be more than happy to do it. I have to be honest I have dealt with this prob before in other trucks I have owned and in the end it was always the heater core. After rereading my post I guess I am being hardheaded. I mean everything else seems to be working it has to be the core Since it is working now I will ride it out and see what happens and just plan on doing the heater core when it warms up. Thanks Rob

Ok last July my if you remember my tranny went out on my trip to Montana. I remember posting that about an hour before my tranny blew up we were climbing up a pretty steep hill at about 65 mph and I got like a 2 sec squeal and it sounded like it came from the turbo I pulled over and popped the hood and took a look and didn't see anything out of the ordinary and I could not make it do it again. So we just went on. An hour later the tranny blows. I just figured the noise had something to do with the tranny. OK here we are 5 months later. The other day I am driving down the road upshifting to 6th and when I hit 65 mph I get this same squeal again. Its just a short little squeal I look at my gauges everything is normal. The truck doesn't miss a beat. It doesn't sputter or cough or nothing. Last night on my way home it does it again but this time my check engine light comes on. Same thing upshifting and at 65 MPH I get the squeal. I look at my gauges and everything is fine. So I start watching my boost and try and make it happen again when I get to 65mph I get the squeal again and I am watching my boost gauge when the squeal happens my boost gauge is at 10 and then drops very quickly to like 8 and then immediately goes back to 10 after the squeal stops. It happens so fast that if your not watching the gauge when it happens you will not see it. The truck runs fine it doesn't miss a beat. I pulled the code an I got pcu 0500 and ecu 1693. So my friends what now. Your thoughts and help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Rob PS I just went out and started my truck and the engine light is off now. Have the same codes P PCU 0500 P done P ECU 1693 P done

Sorry I have been busy and haven't gotten back. Last Wed I went to napa and got a new t-stat and radiator cap and installed both. It seemed to fix the problem. My temp gauge went to 190 and stayed right there and I had heat everything was back to normal:hyper:. On Sat morning got up to go to work warmed the truck up temp gauge was normal but I had NO HEAT:banghead:. Drove to work my engine temp was normal 190 and stayed there. Sat nite I am getting ready to drive home and I am messsing with the selector and I turn to max ac and suddenly I have hot air. I drive home and if I switch it back to the regular heat it just goes cold. Almost like it is letting outside air in. So Sunday morn I get up and same thing if I have on max ac I get heat. Sunday nite my Gf comes by work and we are driving around and I tell her my heat only works on Max AC and I switch back to regular heat to show her and now it starts blowing hot air again. So I drive home and everything works normal again. On Sat when the heat only worked on Max AC I checked to make sure the flapper door was working and the little rotating thingy down by the passenger floor was moving correctly when you moved the temp selector. I am just at a loss to explain this. Thanks Rob

Alright been messing with this for a couple of weeks. Started when it first got cold. Noticed my heat was not as warm as usual. I checked my radiator and it was about half gallon low. After I filled it up I drove it and the heat seemed to be better. When I got home I noticed some antifreeze on the ground. Looked up there and found it dripping from the drain plug. Replaced the plug which I might add is a stupid design and pretty much worthless to actually drain your radiator. Why cant it be a pitcock drain. NOOOO it has to be some nasa frickin design with an O ring that doesn't actually work after you remove it the first time. :banghead: Sorry !! Anyway it wasn't the plug anyway but a leak in the radiator up a little higher behind the shroud. Ok now this is where I get lost. This is a closed system and it will build up pressure. Why is it just dripping ? Why isn't it spewing out making a mess ? Ok so I get a new radiator and install it. Replace the t-stat got it at O'reilly's and flush the engine and then disconnect the heater hoses and pour some clr in the heater hoses and let it sit in the heater core for about and 1 1/2 hours and then flush the heater core and reconnect the heater hose. Then fill the truck up with water and then I let her run a bit cause I want to make sure I am getting flow thru my heater core so I pull the hose off on the block side of the heater core and it is pumping good then I pull off the hose on the other side of the heater core and it comes shooting out. Then I drain it again and put the truck on slight upward hill and refilled with antifreeze. Also replaced the resistor on the blower. It went out in the middle of this. Also checked the door where you switch from AC to heat it works fine. Also checked the temp selector thingy underneath there it corresonds with adjusting the temp control. It spins around and stops.Take her for a spin the truck heats up to 190 heater seems warmer ? This truck has always heated up to 190 and would move a neeedles width either way while driving. The heater has always been hot and usually if I have plugged it in after a ten minute warm up it was very toasty. Ok now that I have replaced everything the truck is very slow to reach temp at idle. While driving @ 60mph my truck will reach 190 or just a hair more but when I slow down for a stop light the temp drops down to 160 or so and then as I accelerate the temp will slowly work back up to 190. My heat is warm at best but by no means is it hot. I just left work idiled in the parking lot talking to my friend for about 20 minutes and then drove home from work 25 miles mostly 60mph. I get home and pop the hood nothing is really hot at all. The radiator is not hot or even really warm. The upper hose has some pressure on it but it is not hard to squeeze. It's warm but not real hot. The heater hoses are a little warmer. So I touch the cap and it's not even warm so take the cap off and there is just no pressure at all I look into the radiator it is still full and there is no flow in the radiator at all. I feel stupid that I can't figure this out. The heater prob could be the core. But when I pulled the heater hoses I had good flow going in and out and the water was hot. (ouch dumbass). So I am thinking it is not the core. Why is there no noticable pressure at the cap ? Why is there no real pressure in the hoses ? If it is not pressuring up you would think you had a leak ? But I don't. Why is the temp of the water seemingly not very hot ? T-stat staying open ? Then I would think I would see the antifreeze flowing thru the radiator ? But I don't. Water pump not working ? Then I would think the truck would over heat or at least get hot ? It doesn't. For some reason the cooling system is not getting hot enough. It is not creating any pressure either. It is not cold enough here to require blocking the radiator. Never had a prob before. I am sure it is a simple fix but I am just at a loss as to what ? Why does it get to 190 and then drop back so far ? Why will it not hold the heat. Before it just stayed at 190 within a needles width either way. Sorry for the long post. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rob

Thanks everyone for the replies. I got the wrench set from oreilly's and it worked perfect. Thanks for the pic mopar it expalined the wrench on the pulley perfect. I kept lookin at my pulley thinkin there is no flat spot anywhere for that wrench to grab . When I saw the pic and got the wrench it made sense. Thanks everyone. I ordered the radiator onliine and it got here this morning. But the overflow spout got broke in shipping so will ship it back. aaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgh. Talked to the radiator shop here before I ordered on line I swear he told $310 when I called him. I thought oh well I am just going to have to bite the bullet cause i can't wait another 2 days and I call him back and now he tells me $190 $ 20 bucks cheaper than what I bought it online for:banghead:. Oh well. Will go get it this afternoon and then git er done.Thanks Rob

Thanks mopar. I haven't got the wrenches yet but guess it will become apparent when I get them. I got the radiator out with the fan clutch on so maybe I can get it back in with it on. But I just wanted to know how to get the cottonpicking thing of. LOLThanks Rob

Ok guess I am just stupid. Repacing my radiator and got it out without having to remove the fan clutch.But tried and couldn't budge it. Searched this site and other places on how to remove it. Some places say there are holes in pulley mine does not. Tried using a rubber belt ratchet thing to hold pulley. Didn't work. Found this pic of tools to use but not sure what that 71 mm wrench holds. The 36 goes on nut holding fan clutch but where does 71 mm wrench go to ????Thanks Rob

When you replaced the clutch did you Replace the slave cylinder also or is it still just the stock slave. If not, even rebleeding my not help. I had to replace the slave with a new SB HD slave it comes already bled and it actually has some adjustment to it. Just my experience.Thanks Rob

I found a pic of the plug. It has a barbed end on it and it doesn't just screw out all the way. It releases but the barbs keep the plug connected to the radiator. Ok so as you can see the end of plug has some barbs on the end. So when you install the barbs go thru a hole with some threads in it and then you tighten up the plug and the oring or whatever seals the radiator. So my question is how can you pinch the barbs together in order to remove the plug from the hole so you can replace the o-ring or just the plug it self ??? hope this make sense.Thanks Rob

I just notticed this morning after arriving at work that I have a slow drip. I tried tightening the plug but it Will not tighten up enough to stop the drip. I searched it and of course it can't just be a normal frickin screw in plug . Anybody deal with this drain plug before. Thoughts suggestions ? I am at work so don't want to mess with it till I get home. Thanks Rob

I finally caught on to the spring in another thread. We tried and failed to get that nut off last night. Snapped the end right off a 3' 3/4 break over bar. LOL Guess I will go rent and impact gun. I called around about a renting a torgue multiplier but know one even knew what it was . Hell I had never heard of one till I read this thread. Oh well will git er done hopefully tonight.Thanks Rob

Which spring are you refering to? I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in the write up.Thanks Rob

Ok got the slave from south bend today and put her in and took it for a drive. Took a couple of laps around the town. The plastic on the slave popped the first push, it took a little driving around and it was little rough getting into 4th at first but it loosened up and drives pretty good. Will see how it goes but for now I am quite happy. Will get out and recheck all the tranny bolts and stuff tomorrow and try to get back to normal. Thanks everybody for your help and support. If I can be of any help to anybody on this let me know. Rob

Yep ACE that was the place my buddy contacted the first time. He gave them his credit card # and they told him to send it in. We got to checking other forums and stuff and people were saying they were a ripoff joint so he called them back and said he wasn't going to send it in after all. They had already charged his CC before the next day. He then sent it to GOECM and they sent it back a week later. Nothing had changed same codes everything was exactly the same. He called them and said hey WTF they send said it back they would look at it again. He did they called a week later and said they couldn't fix it and that they would refund his money. A month later he still hadn't heard anything. He just called his CC company and they ended up getting his money back from both companies. So buyer beware of both of these companies.Good Luck Rob

It was the computer and he sent it off to a company in Texas and got ripped off. Ended up taking it to the Dodge house and getting ripped off but at least it worked again.:lmao:We never found a reputable place that could fix his. I don't remember exactly what the computer cost. 1300.00 I think but they may have been for install and part will have to check with my friend. There is a company in Florida also but it was a scam too they say they will rescan or whatever but they never send you your puter back just charge your credit card. I would be very leery of sending it off to anybody maybe somebody on this site can direct you to someone reputable but my friend was trying to save some money and not go thru Dodge and basically kept getting ripped off. I have had good success with all the internet vendors I have gone thru for my stuff but he got burnt twice by the puter guys. Hope this helps. Pull the codes of your truck and post them. Many people here a very knowlegeable and more than willing to help.Good Luck RobSorry for the earlier pm bout tranny could not figure out what you were talking about. LOL

Ok sorry for the delay gettin back. But since I was home and not in Montana on vacation I thought I would go back to work early and save my vacation hours for later. I just work weekends so off to work I went. Anyway got everything back together and got in the the truck pushed the clutch in and heard the plastic thing pop on the slave and thought oh yea here we go. Fired her up and guess what I now have every problem that everyone had mentioned I would have if I had a bad slave . Hard shifting cannot get to reverse the truck creeps forward while I am in gear. I took the hydraulics off the truck and rebled it again to see if that was the prob but no luck. The shaft on the slave actually seemed to be stuck in the extended positon when I tried to push it in to start the pumping action but it finally broke free with some forceful pressure. Go figure. So I am ordering the south bend hyd x 1.50 kit today and hopefully get it in a couple of days and then will get it installed and hopefully this week I will get back on the road. Live Oak's advice to get git er done right the first ime was dead on and I should have listened. I know he isn't and "I told you so guy" but you were right my friend. I want to thank everyone for their help and advice on this project. My good friend Mikel who came and got me in New Mexico and then both Mikel and Kevin for helping me with labor and support in getting my truck fixed. Man you never know who friends are till you get in a bind. Thanks guys. I will keep ya'll updated on what happens when I get my hydraulics in. I will also try and get a cost list and who I used for what so that in the future if your NV5600 goes out they can search and find out what it's gonna take to get it fixed. While I wish it hadn't happened at all I did learn alot about my truck. "sometimes the hard way" but sometimes that is the best way. Like I said before I am no mechanic but it was kind of fun and satisfying to know you can DIY with a little help from your friends. I know I was a bit annoying with my post and stupid questions sometimes but it was a bit scary and frustrating at times so I apologize for that. Thanks RobPs I wanted to include a pic of the part Dodge wanted 320.00 for that I got from Noey at ST&G for a dollar. It's the melted blob on the shift tower shaft that fits on the ball and then fits into the cup in the tranny. 320.00:banghead:

Alright got her stabbed will get some fluid tomorrow and hook up the drivelines, starter and that dreaded slave and then will fire it up. Keep you fingers crossed and say little prayer for ol Rob. ISX I really don't know the reason why it all happened. These are the things I do know for sure the tranny got hotter than hell and the rear gear bearing was toast. The pilot bearing was also toast. The plastic thing on the slave was still intact. When it blew there was some fluid leaking out of the tranny when I looked underneath which I thought was brake fluid but after seeing the viscosity of the tranny fluid it could have been that. The master cylinder is still full of fluid and there was no visible leaking from the slave or the line up to the master cylinder.The clutch plate itself looks just fine. The clutch was definitely working even after the tranny blew. I never had any shifting problems in the truck not a glitch or a grind ever. Smooth as silk even up to the point when it blew. So I don't know how to explain it. I am really not a mechanic. If you tell me what is wrong I can usually fix it. Not necessarily the first time either. Since this happened 12 days ago I have searched the internet and read countless post of people who were just drivng down the in 6th gear and there NV5600 tranny just blew up. On the other side of that I am sure there are tens of thousands of people who own the NV5600 who swear by it. So there you have it. It just happened I guess. I cannot even expalin the slave it's just baffling. Hopefully tomorrow it fires up and I get on down the road. If not I'll just come back here and ask some more questions and hopefully get some more solid advice and wil get her fixed.Thanks Rob

ok just got off the phone with Peter @ southbend. First I just want to say man is he a good guy or what ? Man I wish every company I had dealt with on this problem was as good as southbend and Peter were. Talk about customer service. Standard Transmission and Gear are the same way. Anyway told him about my prob with the slave. He says it should have popped also. But then we get to talking and he ask maybe the fork could have been put on backwards. There is a Stamped Roman numeral I on one end and it goes to the pivot ball. I go out and check it and it is correctly put on. So we talk some more and discussing it. He stated if the slave was not working correctly then the clutch would not have worked properly period. It would not be disengaging the plate and I would be having shifting issues period. So the only conclussion you could come to is that the slave was working properly. It just wasn't pushing far enough to break the plastic. I asked how far does it have to push to disengage he stated 7/8 of an inch at the throw out bearing which actually makes it a little longer at the slave rod. I am sure some physics guy could figure it out but I (Rob) am gonna guess its like an 1 1/8 at the slave. I had measured the slave and it is exactly 2" from the base to the end of the plastic. Where it goes thru the bell housing you have 3/16 of an inch from 2 that leaves you 1 13/16 of and inch of slave rod. You also have to allow for the distance of the concaveness in fork that the rod sits in and the distance the fork sits away from the bell housing and the wear on the clutch plate the compression of the rod when installing it ect. ect ect.:lmao:You can do all the math you want but as Peter said " if you were not having shifting issues then theslave was working properly. It is the only logical explanation. Upto and including the time after the tranny blew up the clutch was still working. When we pulled it up on the trailer to haul it home I had to start the truck for the power steering when I pushed the clutch into start it just sounded normal when I let off the clutch you could just hear the tranny grinding away. LOL He is right it had to be working or the truck would have been showing symptoms period the end. Can I please get an amen from the crowd. I totally agree the plastic should have broken. But the clutch worked in spite of it. Peters advice was to install everything as is and he bet that with everything being new that the slave will pop the plastic and everything will be just right. LOL can you believe that. Here is a guy who could have just said oh yeah you need our heavy duty hydraulic kit for 300.00 and you probably need this and that. And I would have gone OK ship it. UNBELIEVABLE LOL. Ok with that said Live Oak and AH this is not a shot at ya'll in any way shape or form I appreciate your input always. I was thinking the same exact thing ya'll were, I needed a new hydraulics and to be honest I am not out of the woods yet. I am just glad you said to call Peter.But it's like Mopar said "scratching my head as to how it worked" LOL worked is the key word and someone else stated "I bet that was hard shifting." LOL the other illogical thing it shifted like a dream.Anyway it does not make sense that it worked. But it most assuredly did or hopefully still does. Thanks to everybody Rob

Got a call into Peter already. Stupid question can I go ahead and install the tranny or do the hydraulics fit internally ?Thanks Rob

Sound advice Live Oak. But not want I really wanted to hear. Another 300.00. Another 3 days of waiting for a part. I know your right. But geez it is just frustrating.:banghead: I know quit whining dude. Thanks Rob

Prob #1 the slave cylinder dilemma I know its making me nuts thinking about it. I swear this truck shifted so smooth and never any grinding or any suspicious feeling at all. It's been exactly a year since I replaced the slave. (I checked the post). How is that possible. But that plastic thing still being intact is making me nuts. It just seems like if the short throw was a problem it would have shown up with some sort of symptoms right. LOL I realize the tranny blew up a year later but I don't really think it was the slave that caused it. Do you ? What would the clutch plate look like if it wasn't engaging properly. Is it possible that the nv5600 has a short throw ? That fork is right up against the hole in the bell housing. How far do you figure the slave has to push for the clutch to disengage from the flywheel in a normal operating assembly I remember when I first noticed the slave I was at a stop light and I pushed the clutch in and it kept wanting to pull forward. That was when I posted my problem. I remember having probs bleeding it and had to do it a couple of times and and it still felt soft. But I went to work and my friend got in and pumped the clutch like twenty times and from then on the clutch was perfect. It has worked perfectly right up to when the tranny blew up. So what would be the prudent thing to do here folks. Re bleed the slave and and try it again for starters ? Is there a way to test it like it is now. Oh well any suggestions would really, really would be appreciated Thanks Rob Prob #2 Getting this hulk of a tranny stabbed correctly the first time:lol: ---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 AM ---------- The over fill question the company I bought the tranny from stated to over fill the tranny with two quarts actually. AH the coolers are a good idea but as you can imagine I am a little tapped at the moment. Thanks Rob ---------- Post added at 12:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:20 AM ---------- Mopar I was just rereading the clutch hydraulics tip and I was wondering why the master and slave have to be taken out of the truck to perform it. Thanks Rob

It's beginning to look like xmas here in July. The freight company called today and my tranny came in. I pulled my rear main seal. I had to go pick up my flywheel and while I was there I had him take out the old seal and put the new seal in.Then when I got home my clutch was here so today was a good day.So I solved a lot of my probs today. The new tranny came with the tranfer adapter case already on it so I don't have to worry about that case and all the bearings and stuff:hyper:. The rear main seal was throwing me (drill 2 holes in the seal and then use a slide hammer?) not for me. Problem solved.I just removed the whole aluminum case and took to the machine shop $10 problem solved:hyper:. Stupid question the felpro seal came with a gasket for the aluminum case it has an orange stripe on one side ( I imagine self sealing gasket) which side block side or tranny would you put it. Would you rtv on other side. Seems like I remember if you have a gasket you do not need sealer. Thanks Rob