leathermaneod

That's what I thought! I don't see why FASS would recommend against it....we are both talking about 545 for sure right? Not some other number? all of this said, Richard at GDP told me he uses PTFE white pipe dope and I do have that on the fittings of my fuel boss (that was before I learned about the 545). I don't see an issue using those other sealants (pipe dope or thread tape) before the filter. Not so safe after it, though I have a little loctite 567 I think it is(white goopy stuff), at my fp gauge isolator(again before I knew better). Never had any problems though. Maybe sometime I should take it apart and redo it?

I think the yellow is diesel rated. It's just a yellow colored thread tape. That's why I use the 545 though. Safe for diesel if I'm not mistaken. Actually, I think Eric at Vulcan even said he uses it. Don't quote me on that, but I believe he and I had a discussion about it. Just look up the specs if your concerned. Well this is odd, I can't seem to find anything saying the 545 is specifically diesel rated. Though I could have swore Eric said he uses it a lot. Maybe call and ask him if you want? It's for hydraulic and pneumatic applications with high solvent resistance though. It also specifically says it has no fillers or anything to clog small valves or screens so it should be safe for use downstream of the fuel filter anyway. I certainly have no complaints of it on my truck. http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/adhesives/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797921968129 http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797960011777 http://www.akd-tools.gr/xmsAssets/File/TDS/LOCTITE/loctite_545.PDF some reading on it. I still can't seem to find anything that says it's specifically rated for diesel though I could have swore I did before when I decided to use it. Maybe I'm just blind ATM lol you could also look into loctite 542 and see if you can find anything that says it is diesel rated.

Unfortunately, no. At least it wasn't for me. I had to order it off amazon. You may be able to find it if you have a good hardware store though. I thought my fastenal would have it because they have a lot of loctite products, but even they would have had to order it and it was way more $ that way than to just order from amazon.

I use this on just about all my npt fittings, especially after the fuel filter. it is expensive, but a little goes a long way and it believe it is the safest option for this if you need a thread sealant. I always try to give it 24hrs to cure and it's always worked well :-)

Mine is exactly the same way lol been wanting to take care of it, just haven't got around to it yet

How does the t case fluid look? I imagine it would show if there was something binding in there....

So this is odd, I checked the other day and my oil psi gauge does not fluctuate at all when turning on or off high idle, 3 or 6 cyl. Could this be because my truck was built in 2000?

My dad always had issues with his 93' Cummins w/auto trans, getting in and out of 4x4. Not sure what it is about some trucks. Do you stop completely and shift to neutral?

I'm not totally sure what your asking, but you don't need to worry about dirt harming the fuel boss....if your really concerned, just ask Richard at GDP. He told me the FB could handle just about anything thrown at it :-)

You can run other filters with the Fuel Boss, but they need to be after the pump, not before. So, in order to mount to the frame, you would need to run fuel to the pump, back to the frame rail, and up to the engine again. Not necessarily that big of a deal, just something to be aware of and plan for. That is unless you can find a way to mount something like the GDP or VPMAX universal filters in the engine bay. Also, i would keep your factory canister and run a baldwin PF7977 in it. You don't want to loose your water separation and it never hurts to have extra filtration. The Baldwin pf7977 is a really good choice by itself. It is better than factory.

Hi all, Just wanted to share my first experience towing with my cummins Being in the military, and not owning a travel trailer or anything, I don't get the chance to work my truck very often. I don't know exactly how much weight it was, and there was no scale nearby, but I know the tractor is between 3500-4000 lbs, not sure on the trailer. You more experienced guys would probably know better based on the pic. Anyway the tractor is a 47hp, 3 cyl, gas, Ford 3400 from the 60's i think? My Dad is gradually working his way into a small scale farming operation and was able to borrow the tractor from a friend to see how it worked to run his 6' brush hog. Our whole trip wasn't more than 20 miles, and was mostly in 3rd gear at about 30mph or so, as we were on very winding, hilly, back roads. I really had fun getting to test the truck out a bit. It seemed to handle the weight very well. Almost didn't know it was there. I did turn the comp down for the trip. Started at 2x3 but quickly bumped up to 3x3. I was able to build lots of boost on the really steep hills, over 20 psi easily. I only found one possible problem. Either there is something wrong with my brake controller, or the trailers brakes are just worn. We could hear the brakes activating, but they didn't help much. I couldn't lock them up at all. Fortunately my brakes are fine and this wasn't that much weight. I also discovered just how nice it is to be able to use 4L in a "2L" mode because of my cable actuator for the CAD. That is awesome for backing the trailer. It let me move much more slowly and smoothly. The anti stall feature in these truck is really great too, it pushed and pulled that trailer up the driveways just fine all by itself.

I looked for your article but couldn't find it....maybe it just isn't get approved yet. Anyway do you have any pics of the filter installed?

Oh ok. That's sucks, I got really excited when I saw your post.

any news Tyler??

Hmmm I'll have to double check but I don't think my oil pressure does fluctuate when I use high idle....

Yes, lower arms as long as possible to make the ball joints lean back (positive caster). No you shouldn't need to lossen all bolts on all arms, but you will need to jack up by the frame and let the front suspension hang in order to take all the pressure off. I just loosened the front and rear bolts on the lower arms, then got the truck as high as I could with jack stands under the frame. Then I jacked up the axle enough to remove both front wheels, then let the axle all the way down. :-) hope this helps :-)

How do you check with a test gauges? Mine fluctuates from top end of normal at startup to just below middle at idle when warm and up around 70 maybe while driving. Does that still mean it's a dummy?

That's why I did my passenger side. I wanted all the caster I could get. I really don't get those front lower bolts. The rear ones literally come right out, the front ones won't budge. Hopefully your stealership is better than mine, I paid $28 for the bolt, washers, and nut....I did get my caster maxed out though and it did help a little with return to center. Nothing amazing though.

I love to hear/see how it goes for you and how you end up adding a filter if you don't mind....

I'm sorry to say I haven't added one yet. I was thinking about it, and would still like to, I just haven't got around to it yet. Plus I hate to add more stuff into that already cluttered area....

Well take an impact gun and a 13/16 (I think) socket with you :-)) Or maybe 7/8"... I don't remember for sure I'm sorry

Yours might not be stuck, did you try to remove the nuts yet? I understand it is very common to have them stuck, but hey you might get lucky.... im not sure where to get them online, search for eccentric bolts

No your not screwed. Just get a bunch of good quality sawzall blades and get to work :-) I used 8" ones. carefully cut the bolt on each side of the control arm. Don't damage the pocket! We had broken off both sides of mine, nut and head. Then torch and chisel. Still no luck so sawzall. Make sure you get the bolts, 2 washers for each, and a nut for each. The rear bolts should come out fine. If your not in the salt belt you may be fine with then all, you'll just have to see

I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out even with a torch. We had mine glowing read and hit it with an air chisel and still wouldn't budge. It also makes a huge mess of the rubber bushing just FYI.

This is a good point. Probably one reason wiring something to the horn or some other noise making device would be a good idea. I don't see a thief hanging around if the horn is blowing and if he does he may be caught when someone comes to find out what the racket is about. I guess it really just comes down to how much effort you wanna put into it and how well you can do it without hacking up your wiring harness. You may use a simple switch and save your truck because an amateur tried to drive off with it, or you may use a top of the line system and still have it stolen because a pro showed up with a roll back....