digidoggie18

That will be the plan too. Might as well since I'm in there. Honestly, It irks me that I just did my radiator for overheating issues (kept hearing gurgling and found a pin hole) right after I did that the water pump started leaking through the weep hole from the now normal pressure. I should have just spent all of that at once and did this just for peace of mind. Mine is going on 280k but she does sit quite a bit as I am usually on the motorcycle most of the time. I just happen to have a lot of cash sitting aside at the moment and we are intending to keep the truck until we really truly have to get rid of it. I figured now is as good of a time as any other to start fixing the bad stuff and doing some minor rebuilds. During the summer hopefully I will replace the AC compressor, condenser, and evaporator depending on how everything holds vacuum wise as the previous owner just bypassed ecverything. I'll start with the compressor and a flush/ rebuild first. Am I taking on too much?? haha I am so happy you put this info up here. I totally agree with the PSC thing that's why I am not keen on it. My ultimate grab though is always customer service. I get it if you have a bad product too but at least good customer service doesn't make me feel as bad about any issues that may arise. The warranty issues were things I was seeing. Lots of people not getting their core return money back, hearing someone say we never got it. but the thing I wondered about the most was seeing around that time how many of the boxes came straight from them and leaked right off the bat, etc... They stood behind it but I also don't need my truck down like that with us heading into the worst parts of winter here. I've really been leaning Blue top with what I have been hearing.

Here it is again haha. I know, I apologize. So, I am in a bit of a predicament. For a while I have known my steering needs to be fixed. I know that my gearbox has massive amounts of slop and I just replaced all my ball joints, tie rods and lastly drag link maybe a month ago. With that being said, I am starting to get whining and groaning from the pump as well as it getting hard to turn to the right. I know that my pump needs to be replaced (fluid is clean as a whistle and was replaced about 2 years ago and since we really havent driven but maybe 5k in it since. Since my power steering pump is on its way out I will replace it and since my steering box has slop and leaks, I will replace it as well. With that being said, I have read a lot recently and I am stuck between redhead, bluetop, and PSC. I like the PSC the reputation is immense however, its $900. With redhead, I looked in 2015 and heard a lot of issues. I don't see anything recent per se minus a few things but are they really worth it, anyones experience? Bluetop same thing, heard a lot about them just no true experiences to me only things I have read. Regardless, I will be going aftermarket. What are your recent experiences with any of these brands?

So.. my truck has been down about a month now waiting on this new track bar. I get it in and get to installing it this am and I'm freaking the **** out right now.. does anyone have one and have pictures of it installed? Am I supposed to drill anything? This thing came with no instructions and the install docs on the website don't open and the video they have is highly unhelpful besides adding review content. I have a bolt that doesn't fit in any hole on the bracket and it doesn't even feel like it lines up (maybe 1/4" off after putting in the ball joint bolt with sleeve.

Definitely no plans to lift here.. trying to restore and get the steering and suspension right. The moog one after digging through papers I believe may have been installed a couple months before I bought it. That being said that's only roughly 25k if that out of the moog one. The plan is to do practically the entire front end with dodge off road products. Does 10-20k seem about average? Mine currently should be right around there maybe haha

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a financial spot and have some death wobble. My traction bar has play at both ends when checking it out however, my issue is that the track bar in there is moog. I didn't put this in there so I'm guessing the previous owner did however, I want to replace it with a Dodge off road track bar but don't have the cash. I was wondering where I could get a stock/oem track bar so that maybe I could use Luke's link later on if I need to to get by. I'm currently in the middle of restoring mine as I drive her daily to school. Unfortunately money is going to be tight for a hot minute while finishing up some very long term school goals so I can teach

Damn!! One question though. I just now learned we can throw these 4th gen mirrors on our second gens. Do they bolt right up? How do you control the folding of the mirror via switch? I did a search and didn't see anything on this. Can you throw some details my way please?

Oh shoot, thanks guys!

Ok, so I did hubs yesterday and redid brakes. I filed the pad mounting places like you said and added a very small amount of lube where the pad mounts and rests on those clips. I also checked my power steering and you guys hit the nail right on the head. My power steering is in dire need of replacement. With that being said, I mistakenly pumped brakes with the caliper off. Instead of pushing it back to the reservoir I pried on the poisons while opening the bleeder, I got absolutely no air out and was careful on keeping air from getting in. Since all that the pedal is nice and stiff and the pedal Moonves about 1/4" before engaging and braking power is much higher... The pedal still returns slow but maybe it's just me (3seconds to return from being pushed all the way down). Later this week I will be doing a power steering flush as well, thank you guys for the huge amount of knowledge that you were able to give me! One other thing... Are all dodge ram 2500 service manuals the same? I.e. If I purchase one for 2000-2001 will most stuff be the same for diesel models or do they differ between gas and diesel?

I didn't force them in though, this side went in extremely smooth, I replaced the guides this morning. I think the clips holding them in place broke and that was what caused the issue, hopefully it is rectified once she goes back together

Yes, these came apart like butter, my rust bucket is tough normally I didn't even have to tap on the hubs the drivers unbolted and feel right out

I solely put copper antiseize on all bolts, hardware, etc...for that reason, hooefully replacing that hardware will be ok, I just don't know why it would have shaved that sliding bracket though as everything went together stupid smooth

My sliders were replaced during the last job but they still looked awkward so I'll replace those again when I do wheel bearings hopefully soon. Withthat being said, does anyone have a link to a service manual four a 2001 24v? What causes this? Improper install or bad sliders? This was the questionable side.. Also, what's the easiest way to do hubs?

Where I thought I should be. With that being said when the shop did my drums they were in fact seized, it took them a day to get it all apart

Thank you for this, I did not adjust my drums but I do know it's easy to botch the job even though I don't botch from brake jobs. I will review this later when outta warm, I think you are correct though, my power steering gas been whining more especially when cold, I will do that and flush the system. One update though, the brakes are much much more stiff but still not horribly strong, the pedal now for some reason only travels about a half inch to engage which is nice but that still doesn't put me in the dash like mopar man stated. How easy should it be to stop the truck? Also what is the process I need to follow with the power steering?

Ahh, power steering gas slowly been whining

Power steering??

I had 0 bubbles when bleeding. The second and third time.. Prior to that it was blurred by a shop with a vacuum bleeder. When I push my pedal I need to press it hard as well.. And even then it still doesn't stop on a dime Is it possible the booster pushrod needs adjustment? Or something like that or maybe the spring is weak? I'd like to work with you guys to get a solid diagnosis before just swapping anything since most of this system has already been replaced minus the master cylinder

The system has been billed 3 times by me, 1 by a professional I also did not open the system in any way when doing pads

I have a 2001 ram 5.9 Cummins 24v, in 2016 I had both from calipers replaced along with rotors and pads, I had a fluid flush, I replaced my booster on my own, the drums and shoes were replaced as well. I noticed upon replacing pads due to grinding that on my passenger side the inner pad was worn based while the others were in decent shape. It feels as if the truck has a rough time stopping too. Upon replacement of the booster, the abs and brake light kept coming on for a week even though everything was working as it should. Eventually those lights went away. When I replaced pads the brakes were pumped hard then started and pumped again to ensure i had contact before test driving on the test drive they still feel like it's hard to stop the truck and the pedal return is fairly slow. What could be causing this? Shoes are great and adjusted properly, the rotors and drums show very little wear even with the grinding caught when it was i did not gouge the rotor much, the rotor was resurfaced and is well within spec on the thicker end.

Perfect, that's exactly what I was looking for... Just making sure I didn't have a relief stuck in the even if possibly another issue... Thanks for the help, you're the man haha

Ok, so I put in a new lift pump from Napa and it sure as **** doesn't keep up whatsoever... Just at idle revving it and watching the fuel pressure to the VP it drops down to like 10 psi ish so I'm confident 55gph can't keep up. One question though, how does the return open in the VP? It is a valve correct? Does it open based on pressure or flow? Or is the return just wide open pushing all excess that isn't picked up by the injection pump? I'm trying to rule out a possible VP problem as well if that's the case prior to dropping 400-600 doing an air dog... I want to be 100 percent sure that it will fix the not having enough flow and low pressure issue. I'm not feeling too confident with this industrial injection vp44 personally... Are you guys confident that the lift is for sure my issue with still hitting that low of pressure? Could there be another issue that could cause that that I could check I.e. Possible air? I really appreciate your guys help... I dunno why the **** the stock lift is rated for 55 gph when it can't even handle it.. It's it possible when I bought the new injection pump that it flows more than the oem pump? I'd like to have some more in depth conversing on the void possible. Anyone have resources on that to do i can learn more about it? On top of everything?

Ahh ok, mine is pretty much road driven and gravel occasionally, nothing too big.. That's what the samurai is for lol. But, I will not be going sump then... I did not realize that and I appreciate the insight

How do you guys feel about a sump instead of a draw straw? I was researching some options this morning and I love the sump idea but I'm still not 100% sold on it... I was looking specifically at the Beans diesel performance sump kit... I was wondering if anyone had issues with sumps and possible sloshing when fuel was really low causing issues.

What would be a good sized pickup to get then? 5/8?

If i can get the kit with a purchase or the tank adapters with a purchase I'll be ok with buying the other