billy bee

'98 w/ old's cool plunger switch... Working fine for now... bb

My switch was fine. A faulty connection to the switch caused the problem. I fixed that and kept the original switch. bb

I pulled mine out to replace the switch and the switch was fine. Mine had a bad connection between the switch and the wiring block/harness that heated up and mented the harness leading to the switch. (Excessive resistance in the wiring creates heat.) So, I went to a salvage yard and clipped the harness out of a newer truck (that had heavier wires). I had to replace the plastic harness block with the used one I got. Took some time getting all the wires out of the burned block, but I spliced in a few new wires (that were shot) and clipped them all into the new/used wiring block, and I have been good to go. I used some electric grease on all teh connections and made sure they were all tight...Good luck.bb

I have figured out how to make the truck start even when it doesn't want to...which is increasingly more frequently. I just have to crank it for short bursts two or three times and it catches. Still no idea what is causing the problem, but I am grateful that I can get the truck started when I need to .bb

Hi Jon: Sheesh...I hope not. If I understand correctly, I need a scan tool to pull the codes in my '98, right? I'll search for some recommendation on what to buy. bb

Engine fuse is fine. There is an ignition fuse under there, however. Hard to reach as the access panel is off. I'll check that one, too. Today, it failed to start and re-started in 45 minutes. So, my hour theory is out the window. But that begs a question: what gets hot on start-up that would allow the vehicle to crank but not deliver any fuel. (I am thinking that fuel delivery is interrupted.) bb

What is the CTC? bb --- Update to the previous post... It may be, but that's the very reason I am thinking it's the alarm. One hour to the minute and it will start. Just seems too coincidental. bb

I bought a used 1998 24V QCSB (185k) about 6 months ago. Occasionally, it will fail to start for exactly one hour. Then it will start right up. I suspect an aftermarket alarm. I have no fob that might have come with the alarm, but there is a switch hidden under the dash which enables/disables it. Same problem not matter which position the switch is in. Most of the time it starts just fine. But has failed to start twice in the last week. So, the frequency may be increasing. Any ideas at all? I know the alarm has lots of wires but haven't any idea where to start to troubleshoot. And it may not be the alarm at all. If it is the alarm shutting down the ignition and it has a timer, can I set the time to a shorter duration?Lastly, I really don't need the alarm at all and am willing to uninstall it. Anybody know where the tentacles of the alarm wires reach? ECU? Fuel pump? If I take it out, I want it all gone.Any help is appreciated.Thx,bb

Yeah, something grounded out when you hit that bump. That may be tough to find. I had a similar experience with an O2 sensor wire on a 95 Dodge Neon. It was not routed properly and would ground out over a bump, blowing the ignition fuse. Just got lucky finding that...bb

Mine does the same thing. Just as Rogan described, mine has an aftermarket alarm...installed exactly as he described. I will get around to removing it some day. It causes some unusual starting problems. Specifically, if I crank the engine for too short a duration the ignition will shut down for exactly one hour. then it will start fine. Crazy.bb

Here's a pic of my truck through some articulation mounds. It is a crappy shot but you can see how the body lines are off. The holes under th right rear and left front are deep enough to hang me up there. I had to put a rock under the LF tire to get out of the hole. So, that's about as bad as it will get... The good news is that the added flex in the frame makes for better overall articulation in these types of situations. Here's what the rear looked like:

My QCSB has six bolts. As has been mentioned, they are easy to access. The front two mount through perches that are a little flimsy. One of mine had cracked. I welded a big washer onto it and it's fine. Other than that, the frame is pretty flexxy on my truck and the cab and bed seem to move independently of each other.bb

I have a known good spare you can use for the purpose of testing. If you pay shipping and a $25 deposit I'd be more than happy to send it along. You can also get aftermarket ones for $50 online. You can see how I disassembled one and checked continuity for the hi/lo beam function in this thread. You could easily figure out how to test continuity for turn signals. But I cannot imagine how this could be the MF switch. I don't think separate circuits (for front/rear) run through the switch. This may sound stupid but is the bulb making good contact in the socket? Also, a bulb that does not draw enough (like an LED) will flash fast. Is it the correct bulb? bb

I'd start at the taillight and move forward. There is a connection to the taillight housing that you can get to from underneath the truck by the rear bumper. I'd use a test light to see if you have good power to that connector and a multimeter to check resistance through the ground wire. If you've got power but no ground, add a ground. If nothing there, check the right turn signal at the 7-pin connector. Do you have power there? Right turn is usually the pin at about the 3-o'clock position, IIRC. Nothing? Move upstream to the next connector. That video shows another connection along the frame rail someewhere. I don't remember seeing one like that, but you may be able to isolate the turnsignal wires at another connection block. I'd check these easy ones before I tore into the column or the fuse block.All the wiring runs along the left side of the truck along the frame rail, The wiring to the right rear taillight runs across the spare tire carrier crossmember. I'd also drop the spare to make sure it isn't pinching the wires somewhere. bb

Thanks!!! bb