BIG-BLACK-DODGE

I read up on it quite a bit before I changed mine. I had an F-150 when I was younger that ran Dex3 and that truck went through hell! Lol 405,000km's when I sold it on original trans and it shifted like the day I bought it. I Tow 12,000 lb toy hauler and my oil is still nice and clean however I would need further testing to give an honest opinion. When Georend trans builder guy says to use it that's convincing enough for me. Is that who "Dynamic" is maybe? Hopefully Dynamic chimes in.

Cool thanks. After I posted I read up on the 47RE line pressure. You can up the line pressure simply by turning a screw out under the pan. Need to be careful on an older trans because old seals may not be able to take the pressure. Also there is some very interesting info on what type of ATF to use. ATF+4 is said by many to be to slippery. Dextron 3 is supposed to be better. And if not in cold climates some use hydraulic fluid that is like a " shift kit in a bottle". Lol I actually switched mine to DEX3 a while back and it seems fine you need to pump out the old fluid because the fluids don't mix well.

This was a good read.I have the same exact issue with my 98 12 valve/47re. I was thinking With bigger injectors I could fix the problem. I figured there is to much throttle valve tension but with more fueling it would fix my issue. I tried adjusting my TV cable and if I remember right it helped on the lowering my 3-4 shift speed but it also made my 1-2, 2-3 shift to low as well. I heard you can mess the trany up that way so I put it back to where it was and I just let off the throttle at 57mph to get it to shift into forth but it's annoying. My tires are 285/70/17's. Was going to check my tp sensor as well. I wonder if uping the line pressure would help as well? That way you wouldn't have to give it as much throttle to make it shift maybe? I don't think the 47RE is as bad as it's made out to be. Just needs to be set up right.

Ever figure this out??

Haha no her boy friend was there. Both of them were awesome and stayed with me for 1.5 hrs after it happened. They were just about to pass me and i'm sure they wouldn't have been so lucky because there truck was a stock F-150. Mine was lifted with 35's and his rack still hit my windshield. What a powerfull animal. He was probably trying to get away from wolves. Right where I hit him was the area where those famous Canadian wolves were trapped years ago and sent to Yellowstone Park. The biggest baddest meanest wolves on the planet. Thanks and yes it did. The fenders were pretty rusty under the flairs and that all pushed in and jamed into my steering rod/ujoint. It broke the Intake off the engine as well. When I got it home she fired right up lol. Good old Cummins. So Mopar Man73 any chance of putting a V10 section in here? I know it's mainly a Diesel site but the V10 is a bit of an odd ball and almost diesel natured lol. I am only sell the 12 valve because I know I can make money on it plus got the V10 dirt cheap. Diesel is still running through my viens. Here's my "new truck". 1998 12 valve with the 4-doors. Love how it pulls hard down low compared to my 24 valve. Has some rust under the flairs. Dodge sure made crapy metal on these things. My old 70 ford has zero compared to this trucks rust.

Well haven't been on here for a couple years. My old 2002 24v 6 speed's life came to an end and mine almost did as well. Was Sept of 2016 and I was coming home from fishing. Was about 9:30pm. I was traveling below the speed limit by about 5km/hr. Speed limit is 100km/hr (approx 60mph). I noticed a truck was really wanting to pass. So I was driving along then out of no where Big Canadian Mr Moose comes trotting out. I had a split second to figure out what to do. Either hit him and maybe have him come through windshield and kill me or go around him and almost certain roll my truck because of the non existant shoulders of the road and steep banks. So I had no choice to hit him,then a big BANG and next thing I know I can't steer.. I was on the brakes and we did a 180 and started skidding towards the steep shoulders. It happened slow but the tires finally dropped off the pavement. I though great I survived the hit now going to get killed on the roll. I reached back and held me dog as long as I could. I was worried she'd get thrown out. eventually I had to let go and I knew it was going to hit hard so I crouched down into the seat. Finally BANG BANG CRUNCH and then we landed back on the wheels. First thing I thought of was my Lab/Pointer in the back seat. She's more my kid than my dog. Ok she is my kid. She seemed ok but she's been through hell and back and she's really tough so I wanted to make sure she was for sure ok. I seemed fine but my neck was already sore. Next thing I see this cute little brunette smiling at me by my drivers door and she said "are you ok"? I said I don't know am dead am I in heaven lol. Then I was concerned about the moose. I hate seeing an animal suffer but he was killed instantly. So long story short I called to get a permit for the moose and we quartered him up on the side of the hiway lol. The only damage was he had a broken front leg. He had a 52" spread so a decent size moose. Insurance paid me out and I bought a 98 12 valve long box Auto. So I'll be hanging out in the 12 vave section now I guess. Looks like I just bought an 8.0L V10. sure would be nice to see a V10 section on this site. Anyway I bought the truck off insurance then sold it for parts. It had a ton of new stuff on it.

I have a 98 12 valve and it cranks a few times then fires but if I touch the throttle just a hair it fires instantly. I have heard of slow cranks like that happening because of timing being moved. Might want to look into that. Previous owner had the KDP done and front cover all sealed up so maybe the shop that did the work bumped up the timing? This 12 valve barely smokes but pulls way harder than my 24 vslve did on level 5 with the Edge.

Old thread but that tps worked fine the only downfall was the cel stayed on. Never did get refunded for it but that truck hit a moose so it's parts truck now.

Lol i am hoping they will give me my money back but tell me to keep it.

Mine makes no noise at all but if I grab the TR with my hand I can still hear a little clunk. one thing I noticed is after I got the truck back from the alignment was the joint ends where it connects to the pitman arm and to the main tie rod were not aligned. Know what i'm saying? The end on the pitman arm was tilted and the other where it connects on the tie rod too so I just put the one straight up snd down then adjust the one where it attaches to the pitman arm sonit was straight up and down. I wonder if it was supposed to be the other way? Like i wonder if they did that intentionally?? Anyway an update on my steering is this thing is still all over the road... Even got pulled over one night because of it!! Haha I told him these dodges r like that and he said" u know it's funny u say that cause I pull over alot of Dodge trucks thinking they are impared" lol So I figured my steering box was the culprit but PS box sprung a huge leak other day so I bought a reman from Napa.... Anyway it didn't change a thing other than the fact that it doesn't leak. I still don't have a steering brace so hopefully that will be a huge improvement when I get one. But I do find it steers easier at slow barely moving speeds compared to the way it was with the old steering. Other than the steering brace the only other possible thing I could do would be the 3rd gen track bar upgrade but my track bar is brand new and I won't be spending money on that other set up.

So is the surge from the APPS u think? Those Timbo's aren't warrantied? I'll drive mine for a bit and see what happens. So far so good. I'm wondering if I should play with that idle screw to get the readings I need or if I should just leave it alone... I don't want to screw anything up and i'm new to this APPS stuff just learning. I contacted the seller and will ask for my money back because with the CEL on all the time that is not a part that "works" corectly if u ask me. If I don't have to send the part back then I will cut this one open or better yet send it in the mail to Mike if he wants it?? i found another one for about 250.00 cnd funds and it has the whole plate like you'd get from Dodge.It has a 10 year warranty on it as well. But who knows if the company will b in business that long... And when you say u noticed a "slight bump in the idle" you are talking about seeing the rpm needle bump slightly? if so mine did that b4 as well as now with new APPS and it's barely noticable but i don't here the engine surge or anything.

How do you know for sure? Have you cut one of these cheap tps's open? Not being rude just asking the question. Lol I have an Edge Juice programer/chip and was going to see what the throttle position says when it's at idle full throttle etc. It works fine the truck starts great and has same power just the light is on. I was wondering if this one is a copy of the Timbo's APPS or like the wells or OEM?? So you changed it out i assume to Timbos or wells etc? Ok I looked at my throttle percentage on my Edge and it says 0% at idle and 100% at full throttle. So it seems that part is fine. I found this other TPS/APPS and it looks just like the OEM style and quite cheap to buy. This one doesn't have the extra wires to connect either it's just like the oem. Say's it's High quality"..? I'll ask the seller if it throws codes like that other one. I sent the other guy a message telling him about how his APPS works fine but check engine light stays on. I had sent him a few messages and he assured me they worked 100% with no problems at all. Having a check engine light on all the time seems like a problem to me... Here's that other one.

I was thinking I'd order another since they are dirt cheap and grind out the holes where the screws go through the tps and insert the metal sleeve from my old ine in there then i'd be able to adjust it and see what that does. I just bolted it on and i did't want to mess with the idle screw ar first. Maybe i'll pull it apart and turn the screw untill i see a jump in the reading then back it off a half turn. It would make sence that it can't recognize idle because after installing it I had .34 volts (i think) and it was supposed to be 0.6 from what i read. We'll see if affect fuel economy or anything like that. I usually like to buy good quality parts but when I can buy 15 of these for the price of a good one i figured I'd take my chances.

Well just an update. I installed the new cheap china tps and it seems to work great but I my engine light wont turn off. It's non adjustable so I assume my readings don't jive with the computer? Is there some way it will screw up anything else like my VP 44? It works great i did a bunch of road tests with it and while iff road it's not so sensative like the old one was which made it a pain in the but to drive dliw on a rough old logging road.

Well just an update. I put yhe sway bar back on after driving it for a week with out it. It rides better obviously with it off but i like the firmer feel of it at hwy speeds. If i was off road all the time for sure that bar would be off. Maybe i'll get some quick disconects down the road.

Geeze it has started perfect now 5 days in a row... i did set the valve and they were pretty loose so maybe that plays a roll too? But i'm sure my problem is same as yours. i'll know one day here when it's cold enough. Where did u get your rubber o-rings or what ever they are? Right from Cummins?

Yes i'm pretty sure that's my issue. It has to sit at least 10-12 hrs for the issue to show up. It's always pointing ever so slightly uphill. Last 4 days now started great lol

So do these 4th gen mirrors have the light at the bottom too that shines down when u open the door?

Yep read the whole thing. Interesting post? And did i say glow plugs? I meant grid heater and totally understand the system. So you fixed it eh! Nice. Mine has started 100% 3 days in a row now but coolant temp was 69-71F last few days too. And you say you never felt anything wet around the "T" fitting? Mine is dry as a popcorn fart but i do smell diesel fuel the odd time. I'll be changing mine out first and see if that was my issue too. The only thing i can think is that if it's cool enough the Rubbers shrink a bit and don't seal??? ( if it turns out thats my issue) I tried all these little experiments and just as i thought i figured it out i'd have the problem again. Mine is definately not as pronounced as yours which makes it even harder to diagnose.

My ABS does not work but my cruise and everything elsexworks great. I hate abs so that's not the issue but i don't like the lights. Will just pull the bulbs next time i'm in there i guess.

So how about just killing the starter? Can't turn it over can't start it. That plus "the club" on the steering wheel as another deterant and last but not least a gps hidden on the truck. It is getting stupid here in Alberta Canada. I have heard of a few sledders putting gps's in the tow rigs and the trailers too. Apparently there's been a few severe beatings taking place after the fact...lol The Fords get stolen every day it seems. There was a company i saw that had this anti-theft device that you install i to the cehicle and apparently it's impossible to steal. Over 100 "keys" so theives don't have much of a chance there. If u lose the key you can order one only through the company. If i find the link i'll post it. It seems you hardly ever hear of Chevy's getting stollen as far as trucks are concerned. i guess they are much harder to break into and steal..??

I went out today and the temp of the engine was 69F on my Edge. I Cycled the key and BOOM, fired instantly..truck was pointing just slightly up hill. You know this has been going on with my truck for a year. In the beginning I tried all sorts of experiments. I heard about how these 24 valves can be finicky when it comes to battery voltage. So after I cycle the glow plugs and the light goes out I noticed that if I waited a few seconds until my voltmeter started to climb and then if I started it then,it seemed to start faster. Also when I changed my starter to a brand-new one the problem seem to go away for a while??? I've tried different fuel filters as well trying to eliminate every possible thing. I really hope you figure yours out because then I'll practically know what's wrong with mine ha ha.

Oh for sure. It's so bad here that the local dealer always refers me too NAPA or gives me the part number. I do buy some things from Mopar. Like rear brake cables. Can't beat oem fitment, aftermarket alwsys seems to be too long or too short etc. Cone to think if it i think it was 35.00 a liter here in Canada... Crazy... So mor like i paid around the 150 mark...

But i will add that i'm as cheap as it gets and usually buy the best priced parts i can. In all the reading i did i never heard anyone say the mopar stuff was bad just that it was expensive. It cost me 135.00 cnd i think it was. And that was him giving me a deal lol.

But i have brand bew bearings on both wheels. It's a 4x4. The plugs are pluged in good and tight etc. Light still on but i never messed with it at all.