BIG-BLACK-DODGE

Is it possibly leaking because of a groove on the yoke? I bought a NAPA seal and it's identical to the oem seal. put it in and i still have a slight leak. But mine is a 4x4. i want to put a speedy sleeve on first and see what happens.

Well we'll see how this 15 dollar tps is lol. I'm not excpecting it to work but the guy claims it's very high quality... ? Says 2 year warranty haha... Stay tuned!

I can't see that snapped shaft having anything to do with what oil u were using. It's no secret the 5 speed aren't as tough as the 6 speeds. I have seen quite a few 5 spoeds fail but never a 6 speed. When i researched oil for that 6 speed of mine 3/4's of the people said they used mopar stuff. Some guys used penzoil. at 589,000km's on a truck with original trany that seen every kind of condition known to man, hot cold snow etc and lived it's whole life in the Rocky mountains pulling over loaded 5th wheel hay wagons and horses etc etc i wasn't going to question the mopar oil's ability. However I will say this, Mopar calls this I once-in-a-lifetime or oil or something like that, and I think they say it never needs to be changed. I'll have to check my manual on that but either way never listen to what the factory says as far as oil change intervals. This truck had that oil changed a few times in it's life. The other thing I never do with anything at all is switch oils if I don't have to. Everyone out there is running full synthetic this in full synthetic that blah blah blah and here's my truck running the cheapest oil money can buy with really high milage and original engine trany etc. And old guy told me one time to never switch oils because they repel each other. In 2007 diesel power magazine I read that same thing where they were talking about why you shouldn't switch oils all the time. To each their own but that's my secret to success and it seems to work because I've had more than a few vehicles with really high miles and original power trains/engines. And I don't mean to just grab the cheapest oil you can get but for instance in my engine I use Napa 15w40 and that is apparently Valvoline oil I'm told. Non-sympathetic and I change it every 6500 km my transmission I will get changed again after another 125,000 km. I guess I better start converting this kilometres to miles for all you guys from the U.S.A. Lol

So on the power steering pump mod he talks about a shim. Is this something i need to make or not?? I didn't quite follow that...

There we go! So here's how you do it folks. Or here's how I did it... Step 1- pullthe inside panel away at yhe bottom. Ifvyou some how get the whole panel of better yet but i just pryed the bottom out 8" or so. Step 2- take the rod ghe operates the latch off. Just pry the plastic piece off and then the rod will slip right out. Step-3- put small vice grips on the part the the rod was connected too and wiggle it back and forth until it breaks off! I did one side that way and the other side i tried cutting it with a dremel. You want it to break off as close the the bottom as possible Step-4- use a 10mm socket with a swivel end and a 10" extention and tighten the three nuts until the snap off. then the door may op or it may not be able to clear the part you broke off in step 3. If need be take a long punch or pipe and hammer and pound it down. Eventually the door will open. NOTE use a head light so you can see what you're doing... It's dark in there! Lol Step 5- so just use a chisel and brake the old latch apart. I cut mine down the center with a grinder then chisel it all appart untill the bottom plate of the latch is showing. The one cut down the center and BOOM your latch is finally off!! then clean it all up nice and bolt the new latch on. The door will be tight as the day the trucknwas new. Make sure to lube the door hinges! there was a plug missing on the bottom by my original latches so water got in and rusted them uo bad. Keep in mind my truck has over 600,000km's plus 300 of that was nasty bush roads. The pics aren't quite in order but you get the idea. Don't mind the filthy truck!!! Lol i bought it that way... Carpet is coming out and the whole thing is getting detailed.

Cool. I took mine to a little pile of dirt and put each wheel up on the pile flexing the suspension to make sure nothing rubbed and tried it a various wheel positions then did the other wheel same thing. The only spot ggat was close was the tie passenger side sway bar link but it didn't touch and i was flexed out pretty good. when you grab the main tie road that goes from wheel to wheel, can you get slight play out of it?? I have just a hair of play and u can hear it clunk a little. I tried greasing them but that didn't change a thing??? I wonder if the stock set up would have the same?? If u don't have the 2" leveling kit i would be very carefull with this set up. Make sure you test it like i did for clearance. That was with the sway bar off... Man it works so good off road with out it.. Lol definately getting some sway var disconects. one other thing is i notice this steering set up seems to make the steering easier to turn???

It does make somewhat of a difference but unless you litterally grab the wheel and yank it right or left, u can't tell much of a difference at all. It is however a bit smoother on gravel roads and way less noise when you go over wash boards. I tried flexing it out and wow huge difference which i excpected. This truck is off road all the time so i think i will look for some sway bar disconnects. When my rear sway bar was off it nade much much more of a difference and was so much better once i hooked it up. I'm sure it's safer to leave it attached though. if the track bar ever lets go it would help hold the diff in there somewhat. Definately want to get that DOR steering box brace. If you look at the top of the bumper where the hood meets you can see it's wider at one side than the other slightly so if I had the other style of steering brace that goes from frame to frame you can definitely see how it would put stress on the sector shaft of the steering box. The DOR Will just mount to the one frame rail so it won't put stress on that sector shaft.

I was just about to replace my sway bar bushings and read on another forum some guys removed the sway bar all together. The front bar that is... Anyone here try it?? I know it's better for off roading etc and i'm certainly no stranger to using swaybar disconnects, but just wondering if people leave them off even for the highway. maybe the Suspension is stiff enough that it will not make too much of a difference?? anyway for the amount of time it takes I'm going to remove it and take it for a little spin and see what I find...stay tuned. P.S- I did have the rear sway bar disconnected, actually I bought the truck with the links broken and I drove it like that for a while. As soon as I bolted the links back on the truck drove so much better and wasn't all over the road especially with a load on. I'm thinking with the backup doubt but the front disconnected it might actually make it right nicer, but I'll take it for a spin first and see what happens. Keep in mind I have a fourth GEN steering set up on my truck so that might play a role of it actually working better than if I had the stock steering set up .

Ok cool thanks for the links. I'm really interested in the mpg mod and it looks like u sell the kits eh? I'll read up on it first then ask some questions.

Well i am using my phone could that play a roll? i am looking gor the mpg mod, a powersteering pump mod and the crank case vent mod. all for my truck ( 02 ram 2500) nothing at all will show up when i do searches.

Ya i've always heard of them as "98 1/2's" they are not common but certanly not super rare. When nobody knew anything about the vp44 trucks or why the inj pumps were failing, everyone wanted this truck because it had the best of both worlds. 16,000 is crazy high unless the truck has 100,000 km's or something. Even then it's still an old truck....

I just paid the money and run the mopar stuff. I'm over 600,000km's on this priginal trany so that pil seems to be working good.

There was no way in hell that these were going to be freed up. I even tried using a little bit of heat when I first messed with it a couple months ago. And there was just no way to get at the actual part that was seized. anyway I went out it today and I was able to pull the the panel out some what and get at the three bolts. I just tightened them till they broke off then it took a bunch of carefull prying on the bottom of the door but still it wouldn't open. So i put some small vice grips on the part where the door handle rod hooks into and bent it back n forth till it broke off. Then pounded what was left down so the door would open and leave the latch in place. Then i took the grinder/dremel and cut the latch and it came off finally! Installed new latch and it closes like as if it's a new truck. No slaming of the door required! Tried to upload some pics but it won't let me for some reason??? Never had issues before?

I remembered but i had a small window to get my door latch swaped in between rain storms. Got it swaped out! She's a 3 door now!!! Lol i'll get it for u tomorrow. Promise!

I keep doing searches and nothing at all will come up?? I tried to search for this post and not ing either??? What am i doing wrong? went into the search and typed in " 2ng gen A/C" nothing at all??

Yes I did that top nut adjustment already. Turned it 1/4 turn but going to back it off just slightly. I want to do that other adjestment and hoping that will take the play out of the wheel. if one just bought the newest updated steering linkage for the second gen plus got rid of the steering box slop, might be no need to go with this 4th gen set up. and the new 4th gen steering has NO grease fittings at all. And yes i just used a needle greaser.

I'll measure it up tomorrow. I have another just like the one i put in...i could mail it to you! Lol oh wait...Canada post is on strike again...lol I was pretty sure my ranch came with it. I always keep that stuff for times like this. Worked out good. Just took it for a drive with the TRE's all greased up and the steering shock in. I think it feels tighter. One thing i noticed is my steering seems to stay in one spot if i take my hand off the wheel. Could be from the shock or could be from Me adjusting the steering box... I'll back off the set screw tomorrow and try it again. All i really need now is to get rid of this steering play. If you are driving down the road in your rig what's it like? I can move the wheel about 2" back n forth without it moving the tires. I want that slop gone! Will have to read more on that other adjustment gor the steering box.

I read about swaping the power steering pump on these things, watched a few video's and people were taking all sorts of stuff off that didn't need to come off! Lol almost every video i saw, the engines were filthy! Engine needs to be spotless makes it so nice to work on... I took just the pump off not the vacume pump and it was super fast/easy. Hardest part was putting the oil in myself then having to run i ti the cab to turn the wheel etc...

Following this... I have the same issue as you. but i have a basically stock Airtex intank lift pump ( new). I get a slight diesel fuel smell in the cab but every thing seems dry... You did tighten injector lines eh? Not sure if i read that u did that or not. I was thinking it's my injector o-rings. if so fuel would be in the oil correct? I took an oil sample but haven't sent it away yet.

I looked at the A/C relay under the hood and pulled the fuse. Engine running max a/c on i have voltage at one wire and with just normal a/c i have power at two wires. I need a diagram to show what wire goes were. I did some googling but i can't find what i need. There's a two wire plug down by the compressor that is broken. The fuse box side of the wireing is intact so i checked for power at both wires and nothing. I swaped relays around but still no power. So if anyone can post the diagram i need i would be a happy camper.

Well I looked in my box of sleeves and found one that fit almost perfect. It fit thecrancho shock just fine but where it slides over the bolt on the tie rod it had just a timy bit of play so i just put one wrap of electrical tape to take up the gap. Bolted right up. No need for a fourth gen steering stabilizer shock the stock one works just fine. I found a mound of dirt and flexed the truck pretty good. The only tight spot is where the drag link comes close to the sway bar link but it didn't touch. I tightened up the steering box but still have that wandering...i guess i'll have to do the other adjustment but i don't think i can do that one on the truck.

Yes i like to keep everything in good shape too but i just bout the truck last year. the panel is loose but u can't take it right out of there ( i don't think) with the door shut. And they won't open right now. When it stops raining i'll check it out and report back... Looking forward to having 4 doors again.... Haha "Boss Hog" that's funny stuff!!! Lol ya those latches are not cheap either!! But i priced around and i got them way cheaper then at the dealer.

Ha yes we have good alcohol. Was a teenager playing Hockey in the States we would always find it funny how the U.S boys got drunk so fast... Lol our booze was definately more potent i think. The beer there seemed like water to us. Lol This post has inspired me to go get a bottle of Crown Royal... Happy Canada Day ya'll!!

I did mine within the last year. I went with two new MOPAR rear brake cables. I have always had bad luck with aftermarket cables almost always never fitting right... Seems to hold true with ATV's as well... But for the e brake shoes i just went with a good set from NAPA. I adjust them up so they just start to rub then i always spin the rotor to center everything then check again. Mine will hold me pretty good but i always leave it in 1st gear as well as put the Ebrake on when on a steep grade. I have forgot it on a few times ( i hate when i do that) so now they are loose again... Then last winter i got stuck in snow going into my hunting camp, threw some tire chains on i made for 37" tires and they were loose for my then 32"ers... Chains ended up bustting something off back there... Forget what it was but somewhere the cable hooks in. Anyway my fault but i was in a bind in the middle of no where. I did get out though... Lol That's nice country. Where was that pic?