deehammer

Sorry for the late response haven't been on for awhile. I really like my Blue Driver. I have read data from dozens of cars from guys here at work to neighborhood buddies to car shopping with my son. Have not run into any issues other than it is so small that I have forgotten to pull it from vehicle when leaving!!! I really like the software. It saves scans in a database so you can pull the information up later when not at the vehicle. Good buy for sure.

Maybe not so lucky.... I was sifting through my Code Reader Logs during my lunch break today on my phone and I not only had the 1688 Code pop two days ago also again on 21 Feb so a couple of weeks ago. Must have been an oversight on my part. 1688 Code is currently not showing but I am afraid it is a matter of time. I will double check the wiring again for the current 122 Code. I feel like my original theory that the IP is missing/no commination (electronically) at Idle is causing Sensors/APPS to disagree with the status of the Engine.

Mike thanks for the words. I need to clarify something 1688 has yet to come back on a second time at this point it just happened once. 122 is the hard code at this time that will not go away if it does it comes back again. I just tested again for AC Noise and I saw something a little odd. Truck was cold I started it up and had it hooked up to test Alternator for AC Noise. It was reading high like .075 V. Once about every 10 seconds or so it would even spike above .1 V almost like the Alternator was engaged and charging. After about 4 min or so it leveled off at .030 V which is what is was when I checked it a couple of months ago after a long drive home. Could this high AC noise at the beginning cause issues? Or is this normal charging after starting the truck? New batteries?? They are pretty old. I am going to find some time to pull the ECM connector to finish the troubleshooting for 122 yet again but I don’t think I will find anything wrong like last time.

I went to a 4 inch MBRP exhaust I am completely stock as well. No modifications needed. Lowered my EGTs slightly but nothing to write home about. Sounds better is all real benefit I got. Stock exhaust was rusted out.

Ok here is a little background. I bought the truck with about 100k miles on it 16 years ago. I thought it still had the original Injection pomp but going through old paperwork from the original owner the Injection pump was replaced at 70K miles. Shortly after purchasing the truck I installed a mechanical fuel gauge. I have replaced the lift pum 3x over the years yeah yeah I know why did I not put in a FASS or something so shoot me. The fuel Pressure is always at or around 17psi at idle and I never get below 10 at WOT. Truck is stock so no big injectors or anything. Now onto my issue. About 2 years ago I got the 122 Code which I troubleshot to the APPS which needed to be replaced. I got a TIMBO installed it and it ran great until about 4 months ago. I would get an engine miss at Idle every once in awhile when fully warm but no Engine code. I figured it was due to injectors being tired they are the original ones I know that for sure. So about a month ago I started getting engine misses when the truck started up. At this point I decided to check the Alternator AC Noise and it was high. I had the Alternator Rebuilt locally and now the AC Noise looks good. Yesterday I fired up the truck and it stumbled after 15 seconds of idling but this time it died on me. Very sick feeling btw. I cranked it and it started right back up. The codes thrown at this time are 122, 366, 1688 and 1690. I reset the codes but they came back the next time I fired it up except 366 and 1690 with another stumble. I have read through the troubleshooting on all the codes. Basically 122 which I am familiar with points to the APPS with its wiring. I have gone through this no problems. 366 and 1690 point to the Crank Sensor with its wiring. I can check that no issue but I don’t think that it is a problem due to no repeat. So that leaves me at 1688 which from what I have heard is a death code for the VP44 IP. Problem I am seeing is that most of them are dead dead...like no start. Mine seems random as far as the stumble. It is driveable but I don’t trust it right now. My theory is the VP44 IP has 200k on it right now and I feel it is going south with a slight miss/no communication here and there causing all of the other codes at random especially when it died. Anyone else have experience with 1688/122 combo? As you all know it is an expensive repair I would like to be more positive it is the VP44 IP before moving forward. Feedback is appreciated. Thanks guys

So took the battery trays out today to replace the hold down clips. In doin so I had to take off the front part of each inner fender splash shield. My question is doe anyone know the part number of the retaining push clips/plastic rivets that are used? I need about 6 of them at the moment.

To update this thread I took out the Bosch Alternator (original) paid a local Alternator shop $129 to rebuild it. They had it I don't the next day with a 2 year warranty. I figured if it lasted this long it was a better to stick with the stock one rather than gamble with the local Part Store Chinese versions but time will tell I guess. Re-installed almost 2 weeks ago all seems to be good. A/C noise level is under control and so far (knock on wood) no more issues. I have decided though that I am going to spend $200 or so to build myself some brand new battery cables all the way around with the military style terminals. Not something that I have to do but it is time after 19 years.

You cannot do the key trick to read the codes on a 99 it does not have the capability. I had a similar issue with the CEL, Brake and Air Bag light coming on. However it never died on me or would not start. Ended up being my Alternator which I had rebuilt locally. Sounds to me like you have another issue going on......you really need to see what CEL codes are present.

Ok I have been having some odd issues the last few weeks. About a year ago I got a hard CEL code P0123 and P0122. I checked for AC Noise at the Alternator and got around .03 VAC so no problems there. I swapped out the APPS for a TIMBO no problems truck runs fine. Now a year later I get a random P0122, P01693 and another code I don’t remember it was int he 300s, the last few weeks....it comes and goes usually at startup during idle. This morning I go to take the Wife last minute shopping and all of the sudden after startup I get an Air Bag Light and Brake light stuck on. Also no power to the Heater Blower Motor. Drive the truck about 10 miles or so everything else works. Stop the truck turn it back on about 5 minutes later all is good no more lights blower is good. Drove home popped the hood checked again for AC Noise getting .014 VAC at the Battery but I am now getting .045 to .09 VAC at the Alternator with random spikes they are fast spikes they don’t register for long but they go over .1 VAC. I am thinking this is my issue causing odd things to happen. Alternator is original on the truck around 270K miles. First of all anyone have any thoughts on my issue or experienced the same thing? Also am researching alternators bottom line is to make sure it does not have the AC problem as well so check it on the bench before buying is what I am getting. Thanks for the replies.

Just my experience but I used Gates as well and the bottom hose Part #22082 did not fit onto the block. I tried for 20 minutes to get the sucker to fit. Finally I read some reviews from people saying that the Gates hose did not fit for them as well. Found a Dayco at a local parts store fit like a glove have not had any issues for over a year. Just my experience.

CEL has gone out like usual however the code was still showing up on my scan tool. I cleared the code and it came back again but there is no CEL anymore. Don't know if that has any merit on it at all being ECM vs PCM. I will be running through the procedure when I get time soon and will update then.

How do I tell what module the DTC is set by? ECM or PCM? I have a 99 so the key reading codes with the key on/off does not work. I do have a code reader (BlueDriver) A little background about 4 months ago it got pretty cold and I had a rough cold start which popped P0122 with a slight pedal stutter. Cleared code chalked it up as a cold start low voltage issue. A week or so later it did it again a couple of times. I swapped out with a Timbo Apps and no more issues. This morning another cold morning not too bad of a cold start no pedal issues detected however It popped P0122 again. I am now wanting to go through the complete troubleshooting tree however I do not know if the code is set by the PCM or ECM. I am also pretty sure that this just shows up sporadically when cold enough outside. *Update: I am assuming, looking at the wiring diagram, that the ECM would have to throw this code so I will troubleshoot the ECM route first. If I find nothing I will go the PCM route. I think the chances of my Timbo APPS being defective are very low.

Good point. Ensure you get to the root cause of the issue. My fuel guage sender went bad on me a few years back in a Suburban (44 gallon tank) and I thought I still had 1/4 tank. Since then I am all over resetting the trip mileage in every car. I know about how much mileage I should be getting per tank. Hasn't really come in hand yet but I feel it will someday.

Looks great!! Color scheme reminds me of my dads '79 Bronco. I bet it feels like it drives better even though it mechanically doesn't.

Sounds like an APPS to me. Run through the P0121 code troubleshooting on the Article tab it should pin point the APPS. If u do replace it go with a Timbo. I think they are $165 or so. Easy to install and calibrate

Mike so replace the Bearing that you have and order a Timken for the other side off Amazon for $175 if it can wait a few days. I got mine off Amazon and I am pretty sure it was prime so it arrived after a couple of days. Understood on the need to get the rig running.

I would plan on changing the Front Rotors at the same time. In order to change the rotors on that year you have to pull the wheel bearing. I don't know exactly what year the design changed (01 or 02??) however on the later design front hub assembly the rotors slip on and off without pulling the bearing.

I went with a Timken been good so far. Depending on the year I would recommend replacing rotors as well.

If its not one thing its another with our trucks. I assume it is one of your front wheel bearings correct?

at about 260K my original starter kept sticking in the engaged position....found a local rebuild one for a good deal so I swapped it in. No issues yet. Still have my original started in a box on the shelf couldn't bring myself to get rid of it.

I have not used any coolant flush products at all. I just flushed out using garden hose and good old tap water in the radiator (thermostat removed) and the other end of the radiator sticking out the front of the truck. After the flush I opened the bottom drain again and ran a few gallons of distilled water through it. I just used the Cheap Super Tech from Wally World, there is no need to overpay for the engine coolant. Read through Mikes article he addresses a lot of your concerns.

I agree. Mike has an step by step process written up in the Article Section that is very good. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/cooling/cooling-system-flush-r332/

When was the last time you flushed the system? Any overheating or lack of heat?

@Mopar1973Man hope you get the Cummins on the road very shortly. 120k?? That number seems low to me. I am at 270k with the original VP44. I guess I consider myself lucky at this point. Had a scare a few weeks ago with a slight dead pedal issue but it ended up being 122 code which a new Timbo APPS solved.

Yeah this thread was hijacked but the first few posts gave me what I was looking for. Thanks to those who stayed on topic early. Apreciate the response will be doing the RV275s in the near future also going to do the valve adjustment for the first time.