Rogan

Spoke at length with Dean, JR.. I really like him; he tells you like it is (just like I do!) At any rate, he gave me a shopping list of things to do and to get him some info. I'll have to try and catch up to my buddy tomorrow and see if he can connect his Snap-On MODUS to it.. He also told me a trick to adjust the TV cable properly. Dean's afraid that the PCM is for the wrong year truck (i.e. for a 99-2000+, rather than a '97) but the MODUS will answer that for us. Also said that the OD light (which is non-existant on my truck) is an integral part of the functionality, due to the resistance the bulb produces for the PCM on that wire (C3, pin 6).. My cruise doesn't work, and he said that's also possibly due to the PCM and/or it's wiring. The 4WD switch (turns the light on) also is supposed to be wired into the PCM. He fears, also, that the PCM isn't for a 4WD, but we'll find that out, too, with the MODUS). At any rate, I have homework: [*]Adjust TV cable properly [*]Modus to determine year/make/model/engine/drivetrain [*]Wire in a 168 or 194 bulb for the OD circuit on C6-p6 (LtGN/Org) [*]Check for CC switch function via Modus I'm going to try to get this all sorted tomorrow, hopefully, and call him back with results.

Yeah he's a member here. He also runs ramforum.com. not sure on what tire.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes I did, good sir. Thank you!

Readjusted fss and it started... drilled/tapped banjo and installed a fp gauge. Idle at 16-20, slow pulse. Needle valve any more closed and it won't read pressure. Pulses about once/2sec.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I've checked for power and ground. It has it all as needed. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I got it. It doesn't even hold up with it not connected to the arm.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I'll choke-cable it if it turns out bad fss Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Lol what?? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I did reset the plugs for the relay and fss a few times. It does not stay up with the key on, yet there's 12v on the skinny wire.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I'll check this in a little bit. It was drizzling and cold yesterday after work, so I didn't get a chance to check the FSS operation. It's supposed to get up to 40*F today, so maybe I can do it after work.. As for the stretched cable theory: It's possible, but the throttle seems instant from idle with no play. I'd ASSuME that if it were stretched, it'd be a little sloppy off-idle? - - - Updated - - - Ok, I've managed to shoot myself in the butt, yet again... So, following the guide on setting the FSS height, I checked as instructed. Sure enough, I could move the FSS ~.125" or more.. So, I turned the ign off, pulled the pin, loosened the lock-nut, adjusted the rod height, and reassembled... Guess what? Friggin' truck won't start now. Well, it'll try, but no-go. So, I started testing voltages. Everything "seems" to be correct.. The problem now lies in that the FSS will initially pull the rod up, but as soon as the truck starts and you let off the key, it drops right back down and the truck dies.. Relay is good, wiring/voltages to the relay are correct, voltages to the FSS are correct and seem to occur correctly, just no-run.. Can it be that the FSS took a dump coincidentally? I'm SOOOO over this #$%^& truck right now..

LAWL!

Date: Aug 15, 1997 Models: 1994-1998 BR Ram Truck NOTE: This adjustments in this bulletin can be used on later models up through 2001. Symptom/Condition: Vehicle operators may complain that when driving on a straight road, a higher than normal steering wheel movement (perceived as excessive play) is required to keep the vehicle going straight or may describe of having to over compensating the steering to keep the vehicle from wandering. NOTE: THIS SYMPTOM SHOULD NOT BE CONFUSED WITH VEHICLE WANDERING DUE TO SLOW OR POOR STEERING RETURNABILITY. Diagnosis: 1. Drive the vehicle on a smooth straight road to verify that the vehicle does require higher than average amount of steering wheel movement to be able to keep the vehicle from wandering. 2. If the vehicle responds to normal steering wheel input (steering wheel can be held steady to keep the vehicle going straight), however the vehicle still drifts/wanders, see Technical Service Bulletin 05-03-97, dated March 17, 1997 for information regarding Chassis Dynamics Diagnosis. NOTE: IT IS IMPORTANT TO THOROUGHLY PERFORM THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION INSPECTION PROCEDURE OF TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 05-03-97 FOR VEHICLES THAT EXHIBIT A DRIFT/WANDER BUT RESPOND TO NORMAL STEERING WHEEL INPUT. If a higher than normal steering wheel movement is required to keep the vehicle from wandering (vehicle slow to respond to normal steering wheel input), then perform the Over-Center Adjustment Repair Procedure. Parts: AR (1) 06504926AA Bolt, Intermediate Shaft, Pinch Repair Procedure: This bulletin involves performing the over-center and if necessary, the worm thrust bearing preload adjustments on the steering gear. OVER-CENTER ADJUSTMENT 1. Find the center of the steering gear travel by rotating the steering wheel completely to the left then, rotate the steering wheel to the right while counting the numbers of turns required to reach the end of travel. 2. Rotate the steering wheel to the left 1/2 the number of turns counted in the previous step. This position should be the center of the steering gear travel. 3. Loosen the locknut on the pitman shaft adjuster screw (Figure 1). Make sure the adjuster screw is held and does not turn with the locknut. 4. Turn the adjuster screw in approximately 1/8 of a turn. While holding the adjuster screw, tighten the adjuster screw locknut. 5. Road test the vehicle to determine if the over-center adjustment has corrected vehicle wander. If vehicle wander still occurs, repeat steps 1-5. NOTE: SOME IMPROVEMENT SHOULD BE SHOWN AFTER 1/8 TO 1/4 TURN. IF WANDER STILL OCCURS AFTER TURNING THE ADJUSTER SCREW UP TO 1/2 TURN, PROCEED TO THE BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE. CAUTION: IF THE OVER-CENTER ADJUSTMENT SCREW IS TURNED TOO FAR, CUSTOMERS MAY COMPLAIN OF VEHICLE WANDERING DUE TO POOR STEERING RETURNABILITY AND/OR STICKY STEERING.

I've been there, done that LOL

Dave's (ramhunter9) Herculined rockers..

Ronnie, Welcome to the forum family. I experience much of what you're describing. Mine will shift into OD way earlier than yours (but then again, mine has PSM /wiring issues). If you have 4.10s, you should be around 1900-2000rpm @ 60mph; My 4.10s at 60mph, OD, TCC lockup, is just under 2000rpm. If you have 3.54s, take about 2-300rpm off that (16-1900rpm.) The TCC lockup occurs really fast when going in/out of OD. Sometimes, I cannot notice it, even when I'm looking/listening for it. - - - Updated - - - Not so the case with mine. At 60mph, in OD + LU, I can advance the throttle a good bit, and the rpms will rise up (almost like a rpm-flare) faster than the speed increases. I may put my TCC lockup switch (manually) back into service..

Difference between 3.54s and 4.10s at ~50-60mph is approximately 300rpm..In 1st gear, the 6spd is just a hair lower in gearing (.02). the 6 spd's 2nd gear is also lower (.34), 3rd is also lower (.37). 4th is lower by .39. The 5600's 5th gear is the same as the 5 speed's 4th gear (1.00). The 5speeds' 5th gear is just a hair lower than the 6 spd's 6th gear, by .02 (.75 vs .73). It's really hard to compare apples to apples with his 5 spd and 4.10s, to your 6 spd and 3.54s, as that changes the gearing, yet again. If anything, yours should buzz along at highway speeds much smoother than his and with lower rpms, but his should have more grunt. on the bottom end. Don't forget the power/torque difference to factor in with the SO vs HO. I personally prefer the 6spd in towing heavy in hilly conditions, due to the tighter spacing between gears. I feel the 5 speeds "gap" between 3 and 4 is too far when towing rurally. NV4500HD Specs: [*]Manufactured by New Venture Gear [*] Synchronizers: Carbon fiber composite [*]Input shaft: 1-1/8" 10 spline (V8 version - order code DDP) [*]Input shaft: 1-1/4" 10 spline (Diesel, V10 version - order code DDX) [*]4x4 Output shaft: 1-1/2" 29 spline [*] Input torque rating: 460 ft-lb [*]Max GVWR: 16,000 lb [*]Max GCVWR: 21,000 lb [*] Cast Iron Case, Weight (with oil): 250 pounds [*] Fluid Capacity: 8.5 pints [*]Fill level is to the bottom edge of the fill plug hole. [*] These are the ONLY lubricants recommended for the NV4500: [*]75W-90 Castrol Syntorque Synthetic [*]Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant (PN 4637579) [*]GM Transmission oil (PN 12346191) [*]NOTE: Syntorque is NOT the same as Castrol Syntech. [*]Drain Plug P/N: 4882280 [TABLE=class: grid, width: 125] [TR] [TD=colspan: 2]Gear Ratio [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 1st[/TD] [TD=align: center]5.61 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 2nd[/TD] [TD=align: center]3.04[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 3rd[/TD] [TD=align: center]1.67 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 4th [/TD] [TD=align: center]1.00[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 5th[/TD] [TD=align: center]0.75[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] R[/TD] [TD=align: center]5.61*[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] *Around the 1998 model year, the reverse gear ratio was changed from 5.61 to 5.04. The pre-98 reverse gear on the main shaft has a diameter of 6-5/8" with 39 teeth; the later gear has a diameter of 6" with 35 teeth. NV5600 [*]Introduced in the 1999 model year - few were built before the 2001 MY. [*]Option code DEE [*]Manufactured by New Venture Gear [*]Input Shaft: 1-3/8" 10 spline (after Aug 99) [*]4x4 Output Shaft: 1-1/2" 29 spline [*]Input torque rating 550 ft-lb [*]GVWR: 16,000 lb [*]GCVWR: 26, 000 lb [*]Cast Iron case, weight = 360 lb [*] Fluid Capacity: 9 1/2 pints [*]Texaco Code 1874 MTX [*]Mopar 4761526 [*]Dodge spec MS-9224 oil* [*]Fill port: on driver's side, requires a 17mm Hex wrench [TABLE=class: grid, width: 125] [TR] [TD=bgcolor: #FFCC99]Gear Ratio [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 1st[/TD] [TD]5.63[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 2nd[/TD] [TD]3.38[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 3rd[/TD] [TD]2.04 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 4th[/TD] [TD]1.39 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 5th[/TD] [TD]1.00[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 6th[/TD] [TD]0.73[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] R[/TD] [TD]5.63[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Is there (sorry, I've not really looked) any other throttle adjustment, pedal-wise, other than the rod that goes from the linkage to the rear-section of the pump? My best explanation of how the throttle pedal feels from idle to WOT is that the engine feels like it's around 60-70% WOT, but the pedal goes no further. The pedal requires a good bit of travel to maintain 60mph on the highway, as well..

That makes total sense. I can say that the pedal in this truck feels like it's not fully traveling. I wonder if it's not this exact issue, as the FSS has been replaced (it looks new) and may be way out of adjustment... A reading example of it is that at idle position, the TPS reads 26-28 (via scanner at OBD port) and WOT shows 65-68. I don't know if this is a "percentage" reading or what. But the pedal does not seem to 'full-throttle' the truck.. I'll dive into this and check it out this afternoon after work, provided the rain holds off long enough.. - - - Updated - - - I ordered the needle valve from Fergusons Plumbing. $7. It'll be here tomorrow. 90* .125" x 27 NPT male x .25" compression

I do have an EGT gauge. I kinda understand what you're getting at with the FSOS, but not 100%. I'd rather try that before taking the AFC arm and/or fuel plate completely out.. Thanks - - - Updated - - - yeah, I'm gonna see what I can do this afternoon, about getting a fuel pressure gauge in. I need to see if I can find a needle valve locally, and try to drill/tap this banjo bolt again.. I found this, earlier: - - - Updated - - - I just called the local NAPA stores.. WH 6820 needle valve would be Monday, as they have to order from manufacturer.. I'll try to find it somewhere else locally, but it's not too promising..

Understood.The overflow valve was replaced a few weeks ago, remember? :)I've had this truck about 8 months. This is the 2nd fuel filter in about 6000mi.. It's much cleaner than the one I took out first.. The first one I changed was about 2/3rds covered in goop.I failed to clean the pre-heater bowl back then. And this morning, I just ran out of time.. It was 26*F when I was swapping the fuel filter at 6:45am this morning, before going to work.As for 'finding the cause', I agree with that, and generally try to stick to it.. The problem now, is, that this truck has so many little problems, I'm growing tired of troubleshooting the root causes.. LOLIt's like a part-time JOB fixing screwed up $&!% on this truck, but I have no option. Selling/replacing the truck is not a financial option.As stated, the AFC has a #100 plate, and it's slid full-forward. The star wheel is also full-forward; you can stick your finger in there and move the spring back/forth a little.My '96 had a #10 plate FF, star-wheel FF and smoked like a freight train off-boost, and it was a 180 pump. This is a 215 pump with a more aggressive fuel plate and still nothing. I need a tapped banjo bolt or something to install a FP gauge. I tried to drill/tap the old overflow bolt (the one I removed) but I couldn't get the drill bit to cut the bolt for nothing.. It must be one hard-___ piece of steel..Bottom line is, this truck is my DD and work truck. I rely on it every day, and cannot afford to have it sit in the driveway. I also do not have a back-up vehicle, so I have to make due with what I have and keep pressing on.I look to you guys for help, guidance and assistance, because many of you are well-versed with many of the issues I am crossed with.

I've been contemplating getting some Treadwrights, since the 6-wheeler needs new shoes soon..

Basically, it boils down to this: my truck was originally a 5 speed truck. somewhere along the road, it was swapped to an auto, and the wiring/electronic controls portion is so butchered, it's insane. Going to a MVB would basically eliminate all of that. I manually shift it most of the time, anyway, due to the erratic shifting, so a MVB wouldn't be that big of a deal. I'd just have to reactivate my toggle switches for the OD and LU. But again, no big deal.. I'd definitely go this route, though, if I were to install a MVB..

I changed the filter this morning. It was NASTY.. ... no change in boost or smoke, though.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5114&d=1362062217 This weekend, I think I'll take the fuel heater apart and clean it, as well.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Sure I'd still like to talk to him. Why so much $? No idea. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2