Rogan

135-140k I believe..I've never done an oil analysis. No blow-by, no oil smell, no nothing..

A 10% variance constitutes a failed plug/cord? Not arguing, just curious.. I get it that it's $15 for a new cord, and is "cheap insurance", just wondering what justifies +2.2ohm variance in readings for 120VAC as a failure? I is cornfuzed.

Well, I know I've seen 1100*F + towing up some 6-8% grades at speed, so I can only imagine how hot it "really" was.. :whistle:I know it's using a lot of fuel, but the tailpipe isn't saying that, which is confusing. My '96 smoked like a freight train every time you flicked the go-pedal, and got almost 2 times the economy.It also felt strong as hell and would flat out haul asss...This one is responsive down low in the rpms, but quite lethargic and feels like it runs out of steam above 50mph. Just to maintain 65mph (about 24-2500rpm) while towing, I'm deep into the throttle..

This was the first time I've gotten THAT low mpg in it, but it's always been low. Normally, I get a consistent 12-12.5mpg, whether towing or not, over the course of a tank. Sometimes (in the summer, when I'm towing a lot) I'll fill up after towing the trailer 100%, and average hand-calculated 12.0-12.5mpg. It would bump ever so slightly, maybe 13, if I didn't tow, or towed very little amount of the time. It has 235-85 ATs (about worn out), 4.10:1, auto, no boost elbow, #0 plate (set middle, IIRC), and star untouched, afaik. I need to scale it, since it has the Western Hauler bed, to get an accurate weight. My '96 5spd 3.55 SCLB 2500 would get mid-high 20s on the highway.

I don't have FP, but do have BST and EGT.EGTs at 60 mph usually hover around 6-700 and boost ~3-6psi, not towing.Towing the 20ft enclosed, the psi goes to around 7-12psi, and the EGT climbs to the 800-ish mark, IIRC..This is with mostly flat roadway and small hilly sections.towing/cruising, the trans temp (when locked) hovers around the 140-160 range.The EGT probe is in the downpipe, though, post-turbo.. I didn't put it there, mind you.. :ashamed:I live a few miles from work (7) and it's mostly all city/rural travel, with some stoplights. I can plug it in at 5am, start the truck at 7, leave at 7:10, be at work by 730, and the coolant temp 'may' be up to around 160-170, if I am lucky.If I don't plug it in, it's closer to like 140-155ish by the time I get to work.(the above stuff is with high 20-low 30 ambient temps.)

everything 'appears' normal.only some hazing exhaust on cold morning starts. Aside from that, it rarely rolls coal unless i flatten the go-pedal.Starts fairly easy, but seems to have no top end. No exaggeration, it's a STRUGGLE to keep the truck above 60mph. Just seems to take way too much pedal to do so.sub 45mph, and it feels okay.. any time I call for more power or speed, though, it just seems as though it doesn't want to do it.

What's the problem?low powerpoor fuel economytimingrocker adjustment........ filled up yesterday, 8.9mpg

Sure it isn't your tires? Just askin'...

I can do check by snail mail, or paypal

As Randy stated, the rear axle is a fixed mounting location. The leaf springs are fixed, and the axle blocks are pinned to the leafs and axle. The only way a rear axle could be out of alignment would be by:A. Pinion angle off, due to broken/soft spring packB. Incorrect angle of axle blocks (aftermarket cheapos)C. Incorrect seating of, or broken alignment pinsD. Tweaked framerails (this would have much more visual symptoms)does the truck "dog-walk" down the road when driving straight? In other words, does the rear track to one side or the other? Even with a properly aligned front end, the 'dog-walking' wouldn't really make it pull to one side, it'll just put the steering off-center, unless it's really bad.An easy test of checking 'dog-walk' is to wet down the driveway or street with water, and drive through it as straight as possible, then look at the water trails from the tires onto the dry surface, and see if they are relatively on par, or offset.

I'll cover your room & board, and lotsa good grilling/smoking cow and pig... :)Just bring your specialty tools for timing and such.. I need your 12V expertise..

If I were to make these for you guys, it would most-likely have to be a "pre-paid" thing, as I am a single income family, and spare change is about non-existant. But I'd be happy to make them. It would give me something to do these winter evenings. I wouldn't charge much for my time. I'll price the current parts out, and factor in time, and give you a rough pricing for a harness kit, hopefully this evening. - - - Updated - - - Ok, you're looking at 'roughly' $110 in materials (connectors, wire, relays, fuses, etc.) So about $140-150 shipped, depending on time involved.. Depending on pre-ordered quantity, I could roughly have these out (parts ordered to assembled/shipped date) in about 5-7 days. that's really almost free labor, once you factor in parts shipping to me, and assembled units shipped out.. Tips accepted LOL

Sure thing! Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

I don't think its being dipped but not positive. I have had a few 10 minute warm ups on this tank but its never made this huge of a drop. Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2

Yes, they do have (2) 87 terminals, but they're not the same as the Imperial $40 relay. The Imp relay is a SPST (single pole, single throw) with the same output coming out on both 87 pins at the same time. The Bosch-type, like the 5-pack, are SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw). They, too, have (2) 87 pins, but they're 87 and 87a. How it works is that whatever is on pin 30 (be it GND or PWR) will be present on 87a when the relay is NOT energized. Once the relay is energized (12v on 85, gnd on 86, the presence will switch from 87a to 87. So you'll need to compensate for that in the wiring diagram, which won't be hard. Basically, ignore 87a. Use 87 as your input (fused 12V from source[battery]) and 30 as your output to the low and/or high beam lights. You can tag both low beam wires to the one relay pin.

I just about did anyway! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

LOL I sure hope not!

I'd like to, but it's just not in the cards. Even if it were, I'd likely just go with a 4500 or 5600 and call it done.

while playing xbox last night... Medic (stodg73) planted an Eaton/Fuller seed in my head LOL

I wish I could afford to get him here for a weekend..

I'm down to right at 1/2 tank, and I've traveled 98 miles... W... T... F...?36gal tank, 98mi been all city speeds, mostly.. I hate this truck.

WTF??? Why not use a damned Bosch 30/40A relay (330-073), available most anywhere, for like $5-8 each? It's just a standard SPDT 40A relay. I mean, here's a set of 5 Bosch-type 40A relays, with pigtails, for $15 free shipping.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-12V-BOSCH-STYLE-RELAYS-40A-SPDT-5-5-WIRE-SOCKETS-/300570729695?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4708639855196558952%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D380518193546%26 It'll take a little different wiring up, but it'll save a helluva lot of money. And if a relay goes bad, replace it for a couple bucks. I'm (personally) not one to spend 10x as much to have a dual out relay..

Bust a pressure line on the trans while backing out of the driveway. That's how I did it.. LOLSaturday afternoon was spent spreading and cleaning up about 120lb of dry-sweep. :banghead:

I've contemplated these in the past, but never bit the $200+ bullet. Apparently, the tire assemblies still need balancing in conjunction with the CWBs. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/WheelBalance/index.shtml

it's quite possible it would.I now use just the foamy attachment with the kit and "3M Finishing Material" liquid for body shops. It take like 5 minutes for re-do's.. It's about $20 from a body shop supplier and lasts forever. It's awesome for taking off oxidation from paint prior to a good spring waxing.