Quadzilla Power

Have you checked your alternator for AC noise? That can cause all sorts of gremlins in the system.

You can easily check the harness for a short or even a resistive short. That is a good place to start as any. Once passed warm-up mode temperatures you should be able to change the power level as long as you aren't in a backdown. If you are backed down to 0 because you have a backdown set that isn't going away, then you will probably not be able to change power levels.

There is some kind of short happening somewhere. It could be anywhere from in the ECU, to in the MAP sensor and anywhere in between. As the iQuad app is reporting 50psi, its probably closer to the MAP sensor itself, in the MAP adapter, int he main harness, or on the Adrenaline itself.

Yes, 1/8" -27 NPT, same as the EGT bung we use.

@Me78569 recommends not in the pan but I think in the hot-line. There may be places in the pan where the oil doesn't circulate that can give you a false cold reading on the trans temp.

Ours are 1/8" NPT - same as the EGT probe.

You will have to reset the AVG MPG after you get the MPG offset fixed. You can do the maths to figure out how you need to adjust the MPG offset from 125%, but you really need a full tank at a particular offset before you change it otherwise it will skew the numbers. If you had it on 90%, but change it to 125 just recently you will probably want to start over. The instant MPG (ECO) going to 99.99 is because that is the biggest number that we are going to send back. The way it is calculated is because the fueling message sent to the VP44 at times when you're coasting is literally 0, which we believe means 0 fuel. When you divide the amount of distance you travelled by 0 your going to have a bad time. In math its infinite, in computers its NaN (which stands for Not a Number) and throws an error code and make everything die. So, when we see the fueling message of 0, we say you are getting 99.99 mpg at that instant. If we find out that the 0 fueling message means to still deliver a minimal amount of fuel then we will need to adjust it accordingly.

First thing I would do is to make sure that your MPG Offset is set to 100%. I think it defaults to 90%. If you've already done that you are probably running pretty big injectors. Go ahead and do the method of running at tank at 100%, then dividing the actual gallons used by estimated gallons used then multiplying that by 100 to get the MPG offset percent that will correlate with your injectors. Some fine tuning may be necessary after that, but it should be pretty close. If the gallons per trip are accurate and the AVG MPG is still way off, let me know.

I usually don't use the google drive method. I send it via email. I never though to send it using google drive, but that works for me. The hiccup I get is in the editing. I don't have a text editor that google drive will let me use to edit it so I can see where you have issues. From google drive though (the google drive app) I just click on the three dot menu next to the file, select "open with" option and it automatically opens in the app. Although a save to memory option would be nice. I'm not sure why it doesn't show up honestly.

Crazy devices. I'm not sure what's going on with it.

If you save it to a file and then try to do an import does that work? I mean opening the iQuad app, then going to the custom tuning menu then clicking on the Import button. It should open up a file type browser with recent items that you can choose to import to the app.

@adamey1000 Data-logs would be helpful with longer ones over different time periods. Take one now and send it then one after a few days and send it, then one after you first tank of fuel and send that too. It would be good to see how the filtering is working over longer periods of time. Your perceptions on how it is working is probably even better feedback.

Try this, create a new tune with your phone and export that out to the computer. It doesn't need to have anything set in it. On your computer, open up your recently exported tune and one that you want to import. Copy all of the settingsMap stuff from { to } and replace the tune you just created with the stuff you really want. You can change the profile name here too if you'd like. Email that to yourself and with the app open (but in the background) open the email and click on the imported .json file. It should give you the option to open with the QUadzilla app. Unless I'm misunderstanding and there is something else going on.

OR you can export your tunes, change the name of the vehicle selection in a text editor and reimport them. I've done it myself yesterday. Its completely incovenient, I understand. But I don't want to send out an update to everone when only like 3 people so far are trying this one out to see how it works. Just give your tunes a different name for the testing and leave the others in place. When we roll it out to everyone in a couple of weeks time you can go back to the previous profile and get all the tunes there still working properly.

You need to select the "V2 Quadzilla Only" vehicle from the list, not the "V2 QUADZILLA-ONLY" if that vehicle is in your list still. Thats the one that has the extra gauges. If testing goes well with this version of the base code it will be moved to the main line and the new sensors will be added to the V2 Dodge 1998-2002 vehicle profile.

@Me78569 you will always be the Quadzilla guy . @Mopar1973Man I'm counting on you putting some miles on this baby! By the way, I just made one more update (i've only done 4 today). http://quadzillatech.com/TunesDownloads/V2Tunes/ADR9802v2.8.3.exe The last version would get to the point where the average would just not update any longer. This one will always update.

I Just finished making a newer version of the average MPG file. I tested it only for around 30minutes so I don't have a lot of drive time on it right now. The only change is the addition of a new setting for resetting the MPG average and a new gauge to display the MPG average. It relies on the MPG offset setting being correct for it to work but it should be pretty darn close if that is set properly. http://quadzillatech.com/TunesDownloads/V2Tunes/ADR9802v2.8.2.exe I will upload here to the site in a few minutes as well. It starts out reacting very quickly then slowly starts to react less and less to changes in MPG. It will take a lot of driving before it will even out and stop changing nearly as often. To reset it, toggle the reset setting on and off. If you do not have your MPG offset set correctly I would take the following steps. 1. Set MPG offset to 100% 2. After a fill up of fuel, toggle the MPG offset off/on to reset the gallons per trip used. 3. Run about a tank of fuel then compare the calculated versus the actual. Take ("actual gallons"/"calculated gallons used" x 100) and set that as the MPG offset. 4. Immediately after the fill up, toggle the MPG offset again, and toggle the MPG average reset on/off to reset everything. Do the test again. It will take more than a single tank of fuel to get the average to settle out where it should end up, but after a few tanks of fuel it should be pretty close and stop moving around as much.

To expand a little bit. Warm-up mode will limit the amount of power you can produce out of your truck until the engine warms up. Basically it will limit the power output to what you have for your 0 psi of boost setting across the board. When your truck warms up to your setting, it will then allow you to build more power. One of the side affects of this is that the truck will also allow the high idle to kick in as if you were in level 0. Since the trucks operating temperature is set to around 190, you are basically limiting the power that can be produced indefinitely if you set it to 195. A better setting is between 140 and 170 degrees for the warm up mode protection setting. High Idle (and delay) will turn on only in power level 0 or during warm-up. The delay is how long of a wait while in power level 0 or warm-up mode you have to wait after no throttle is being applied before the high idle kicks in. For example, if you first start up your truck in power level 0 and have the delay set to 30 seconds, after 30 seconds of no throttle input the truck will start to idle up to 1200 RPMs. If you then drive around in power level 0 and wait at a stop light for more than 30 seconds, the truck will also start to idle up again to 1200 RPM

I am looking into it right now. It shouldn't be as hard of a problem as it is, but it is problematic.

And remember that the ECO and the gallons per trip is only accurate when staying on power level 3 or below. If you are using the pump tap, its more of a rough guideline.

Well, you just helped me find a bug that I am frankly reticent to fix. There is a name discrepancy between the update.json and the vehicle_dodge9802_4k_2_6_v2.json file that the update.json file references. In the update.json we name the vehicle: " V2 Dodge 1998-2002 4K " and in the file itself we name the vehicle " V2 Dodge 1998-2002 4k " . You may say to yourself, well those are the same. Honestly, they are not. The first has a capital K and the second has a lower case k. That makes those two names unique in the world of computers. The iPhone uses the update.json name while the Android uses the name embedded in the file. Here's why I am reticent to fix it. The minute I change one or the other all of the custom tuning settings will go away for every user that uses that vehicle profile. It will take time for it to happen because you have to open the vehicle settings menu for the change to take affect, but they will eventually go away. The problem with them being names slightly different is the fact that when you share tunes from an iPhone to an Android, the tunes won't show up in the list of tunes, even though they were copied there. When you try to build a tune with the name of one you tried to download, you will get a message saying, that tuning file already exists, even though you can't find it in any of the vehicle profiles. With apple iOS devices, its not as big of a deal because its shows all the custom tunes from every vehicle. If I do change it, you will probably end up with two different vehicle profiles on iOS devices until you reset the app's data. . About your tune. When I finally found out what was going on with it I noticed a couple of weird things: 1. Maximum Fuel Stretch of 6000us is very aggressive. Your truck may not like that much fuel it may be past the point of HP gains and into the diminishing returns area. 2. TPS pump Min is proably too low at 10%, thats really aggressive 3. Pump Low Boost scale is set to 0 psi. This means that the pump tap will kick in immediately upon reaching 10% throttle. It may be too early for that. 4. Fuel load timing: 10* is probably way too much. Try something closer to 3. If you were to set this to 0, you would unlock a special timing mode that you probably don't want. Its good you had something here. 5. Timing reduction is set to 0, you might want to reduce by 2 or 3 degrees. Timing reduct scaling is 0% so it cancels out the 10, but I would put this to 100% with the reduction set to 3. 6. Light throttle timing Advance - Set this to around 2 to 3* 7 LIght throttle load limit of 30% is good. 8. If you have head studs etc. you will probably want to max your timing out around 3500RPM. You would want to set this to 30*. If not, why are you running a 4k module, you're going to blow stuff up. 9. THis is the biggest issue, all of your values for CAN bus fueling from 11PSI + are set to 0. If you didn't realize this, you need to swipe left and right on that screen to see the other values. Those need to be set higher. At least 100%+ at that point. Depending on the size of your injectors, you will want to build up a ramp similar to what is listed here: http://quadzillapower.com/adrenaline-custom-tuning-guide/#V2Tuning which you should really read over again.

You're using the wrong vehicle profile. You are using a "V2 Quadzilla Only 4k" vehicle profile which is only for testing purposes. You should change your vehicle profile to the "V2 Dodge 1998-2002 4k". The "Quadzilla Only" version has been deleted. The next time you delete your app and re-download your vehicle selections it will not be there in the list.

Yes, having reduced your MAX to 14 from 16 is almost the same thing, but its always like that instead of only when needed.

Here is where your trade-off is most apparent. By adding more fuel down low, you will inherently smoke more. The more "low-end" speed generally means more capability of producing smoke. With that said, there are a couple of ways you can go about tuning this. First off, go ahead and increase the Timing Reduction Scaling to 100%. You will probably want to reduce the full 2 degrees at the high throttle low boost in order to help your turbo spool a little faster thereby getting you out of the "smoke zone" a little faster. Now, with your tune using the factory defaults of 105, 107... ramp rate, you are already putting out more than stock fueling. With your larger injectors you are probably putting out a little smoke already. If you really want a "smokeless" tune, you will need to start messing with the Valet Mode power level and its setting. Up it to closer to 90% and test on level 1. If you are making smoke, back that percentage down until you don't make any smoke. If you are burning clean, then you can up it until you make a little smoke, then back it back down a percent. If you go all the way to 100% without making any smoke then you might need to move on to power level 3 and mess with the CAN bus fueling until you find a point where you start to smoke down low and then back off from there. For example, start by setting all of the CAN bus equalizer to 105% and test your smoke output. If you don't smoke, set all of the equalizer to 107% and see if you see any smoke. Step up and down according to the smoke out put that you are comfortable with. Once you have a good starting point, build from there with a ramp in fueling. ME will tell you all you need is 121% or so on the top end to max out the CAN bus fueling, but it doesn't hurt anything to have the higher number. trreed Just mentioned moving your 1500 RPM slider up. That's not a bad idea to do either.

One thing to note is that we recently discovered that the default 4k v2 tuning has the RPM limiter set to 3400 RPM. Just an FYI. You have to custom tune in order to get over 4000 RPM, but that is what you are trying to find out so you are already making the right steps. First things first, you need to follow the Adrenaline custom tuning guide, even for the 4k V2. http://quadzillapower.com/adrenaline-custom-tuning-guide/#V2Tuning Most of the parameters have the same descriptions with the same defaults. The ones that have changed or are added is that the fuel stretch on the 4k is between 4000 and 6000us instead of 1200 to 2200 us. This one is different because we completely take over the fueling. There are also two more settings on the RPM Timing Max equalizer for the higher RPM ranges. Like ME78569 mentioned, you will need to probably top your timing out at around 3500 RPM (set the max to 30* here).