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  1. Pulled valve cover this morning. #1 cylinder rocker arm but appears to have backed off and and wasn’t doing anything consequently. Going to find someone with a feeler gauge and do valve lash and should be good to go! I’m just happy it’s on #1 so it won’t be too bad but I’ll more than likely go through and do them all since I’m in here.
  2. Have fuel pressure and oil pressure. That’s what I’m hoping. This injectors are only maybe a year old. Going to try and figure out which cylinder is dead and take that injector out and clean it first to see if that does anything. Yup I plan on doing this once it stops raining.
  3. So this morning I started the truck and drove to class and everything was normal. Get out of class 2hrs later and go to start the truck and as soon as I do I know something isn’t right. Truck had a miss and. Is smoking white haze pretty bad. Whole engine is shaking and engine is missing sounds like. No knocking or anything like that. Injectors are only a year old. What would cause it to just go bad while sitting for a couple hours? Had the truck towed to my apt and am going to swap in my stock injectors once I get time (currently pouring cold rain) and hopefully that fixes the issue
  4. 100% wiretap is working, I’ve verified with a test light that’s it connected and you can feel the difference between can only mode and with wiretap mode
  5. It shouldn’t be defueling is the thing. All defuel permaters on the quad are turned off. And I shouldn’t be out of injector as my turbos only a 67mm with a small backhousing, could my turbo be choking it out on the top end?
  6. Truck runs great but when I go WOT it just feels like it runs out of power on the top end. I have the wastegate at ~40Psi and drive pressure will hit ~55-60psi at WOT. Truck just kind of dulls out at anything 80+mph. Is this symptoms of valve float? Truck does have stock springs in it and I know I’m already ordering some new ones since it needs them anyways just hadn’t gotten around to it yet. I have 3.54 gears so I’m not reving the truck out as I only see roughly 2000rpm while going 70 in od
  7. Truck has a wiring connection issue somewhere. It fired up Wednesday evening and has been driving like normal since... knock on wood. I can grab the wiring harnesses and wiggle everything and truck won’t act up so I can’t pinpoint it
  8. So I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 24v. Put all new injector lines and vp44 on Saturday. Drove truck all day Sunday while shutting off/ restarting multiple times. Monday rolls around and drive the truck to work, go to leave work 12hrs later and truck won’t start. Have to bleed lines to get it to start. Tuesday morning have to do the same thing. Tuesday evening can’t get the truck to bleed and notice the gauges don’t work and LP won’t turn on by key. Come back Wednesday morning and truck fires right up and everything works. Get codes 1389, 1899, 1492, 1693. Go to leave work later that day and truck fires up and I let it idle for a couple minutes while I do stuff and get in to leave and truck dies and won’t restart. Doing the no LP or gauges thing. Swapped ASD relay already and found pin 85 has 8V while checking for ground and 4V while checking for power. PCM ground checks out ok. Believe it to be the pcm internally shorted. Any input??
  9. Anyone know the bolt size for the vacuum pump body to case mount? Finally figured out what this major oil leak was. Thought it was the tappet cover all along but just noticed one of the mounting bolts for the vacuum pump to case mount was MIA 🤦‍♂️ not sure how after 290K miles a bolt randomly falls out
  10. Youngblood24v


  11. I’ve been having an issue with my truck where most of the time while cruising I’m at around 28-30% engine load and you can just “feel” that the truck is having to work harder to keep going. Other times I’ll be at around 22-24% engine load and the truck just wants to go. It’s not my brakes hanging up as they are never hot and they have new calipers on them in the front and the rear drums don’t do anything anyways (I think the adjuster is rusted so they don’t actually hit the drum 😂). I’m leaning towards it being an electrical connection problem but not sure where to start. Anyone’s help or experience is well appreciated! And yes I have fuel pressure my sensor just randomly took a dump yesterday.
  12. Is their anyway to lower the rev limiter further down than 3200rpm? Kinda like another security feature for when/if I loan the truck to someone and don’t want them to be romping on it.
  13. My t-case has a gradual leak front the rear seal so it is constantly being topped off with new fluid. When I first got the truck I drained and checked it and everything was normal. Not burnt and no shavings in the fluid or on the magnet
  14. I’ve read a couple write-ups on it and half the people say it’s a nightmare and the other say it’s pretty easy. The u-joints are no issue just the ball and socket is the only thing I’m not familiar with
  15. Ever since I got the truck 3 years ago it’s always had a bad rumble while 4x4 was engaged. It hasn’t effected any performance of the 4x4 but it just doesn’t sound good. I believe it’s the double cardan in the front shaft but I’m unsure. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of play but I plan on removing the front shaft this weekend to see if the rumble goes away with 4x4 engaged to see if it’s the t-case or the shaft. I’ve heard that the from double cardan is a bear to replace but I’d much rather do it myself than spend $300 on a new shaft. Any tips to replacing this joint? I plan on doing all spicer joints so I hopefully won’t have to do this again for a while.
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