cumminapart

With my new rear axle speed sensor unplugged my speedometer still worked on the dash and edge attitude.I followed my front wheel speed sensor wiring and unplugged them both.Now no speed is displayed.For me the front sensors each individually and the rear all can make my speedometer read.Surprisingly.... This also fixed my rough stuttering idle that occurs once warm. This is awesome because I was just waiting for that vp to finally give out.Sent from mobile

I replaced the rear axle sensor and the problem was still there the other day. It doesn't happen on a short drive but seems to be real bad on the way back if I go into town. I suppose I'll have to remove the edge and see what happens but are there any other sensors?Sent from mobile

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 It has done this periodically over the past 3 yrs but it was extremely rare. Only knew because it would flash for a second warning that I was going 100+ mph while clearly not. Now since yesterday it has been pretty bad doing it regularly and even cutting fuel saying I was going 150+ mph while cruising at 60. I have the p1693 code which I need to get looked further into with a reader. Since the weather has warmed up the truck has had a bit of a miss when idling after warming up. Idles smooth when cold and accelerates smoother than ever. I'm afraid that may be a separate issue involving the vp44. Again, I need to get that code checked out. I did have the water in fuel light flash on for a brief moment twice a week apart a few weeks ago. Sent from mobile

No, that thought did cross my mind but my edge starts beeping low fuel pressure if the tank starts getting down there and the fuel sloshes around. The chances of my pressure sensor and the fuel gauge simultaneously screwing up are pretty slim.I never added any more fuel before getting it going again.Sent from mobile

Well the truck started right up now. After bleeding injectors awhile and seeing a bit of fuel I checked the ground and voltage to the vp44's plug which checked out fine.By this time I had a fresh charge on the batteries and the weather had warmed up to close to 30degrees.Well it fired right up so maybe I wiggled a magic wire accidentally which leaves the issue unfixed.Or else my fuel was gelled but I feel that is not the case being that my pressure was fine and last winter when it gelled it dropped to zero psi but kept running.I think that the guy driving it decided to test it out and let off of WOT quickly causing it to vapor lock.Sent from mobile

Okay thanks for the reply, the truck will be back home tomorrow morning so I can start the fun process of diagnosing and freezing fingers then. I did come up with the thought of maybe he accidentally put gas in but is too embarrassed to say? He had mentioned maybe putting some more diesel in to make sure it hadn't run low and the gauge being off.That thought,along with fuel gelling is about shot down with good fuel pressure though.Would the APPS keep the engine from starting? Last winter I had thought about the TIMs replacement because I had surging but it went away with warmer weather. I had figured maybe the injection pump heading downhill or the APPS.

Last night my buddy (so I can only go off what he tells me happened) had my truck and got a phone call this morning about a dead truck. Code read was p0122 early this morning (I believe this can be from spinning wheels in the snow?) and now the code is the p1693 companion code. I don't have a reader to check further into that one.He said that the truck just stalled out on him... literally just died.Quarter tank of fuel, 18psi fuel pressure when I bump the lift pump.No drips or leaks. I cracked numbers 1 and 3 injectors and he said he saw fuel from #1 but didn't say it was spraying or anything.Over the past 10-15k miles the truck has randomly died maybe 5 times but starts instantly as if an ignition wiring problem exists and a bump causes it to short out and shut off. Maybe this time it just didn't stop shorting out? Or would this all be vp44 electrical failure?I checked the fuses and they were all fine.Should I start with getting that companion code checked out a little deeper? Thanks in advance I really need this thing rolling on its own again soon.

Yea from now on I'll do the extra miles to autozone rather than car quest though .... Cheaper and they looked up my alternator and it was still in warranty so swapped me another one no questions asked free of chargeSent from mobile

Ugh.. It ended up being the fuse I didn't look close enough the first 4 times.However the one car quest gave me was bad I made him show me when I brought it back and it didnt work so he got me my old one back which was also bad after making the cruise to autozoneGlad I did it that way though because autozone replaced it free of charge Sent from mobile

fuse was ok but i'll check the green wire tomorrow and report back now youre saying unhook the green but keep the blue hooked up and then instead of that green (ground) going to the pcm where the voltage is regulated by varying the ground it will go straight to full ground causing the unregulated voltage to runaway if it does this then the old mopar style regulator will fix my issue correct? --- Update to the previous post... I have 12v off the blue wire and no overcharge when i ground out the green wire... nothing happens when i do this I had the plug connected normally and opened up my splice from before on the green wire and ran straight from the alternator to the ground on the battery and several other spots while someone watched for it to start charging but nothing happened im going to take off this new alternator and go see if i can get them to give me my old one back and money back and have my old one tested at a different location --- Update to the previous post... well i just got back from carquest but they wont have my original back til tomorrow however he put the one they gave me onto the test bench and it didnt work now its got me wondering could my truck be causing them to burn out instantly? i dont think that would really happen or are they lying and didnt actually test the new one before giving it to me or maybe their test bench is malfunctioning it did look like it was quite old and the guy seemed sketchy on using it

Okay awhile back maybe 20,000 miles tops I replaced my alternator and all was good.....Well except 3 random times when the truck just completely shut off beginning with the radio and everything turning off followed by the engine dieing a second later. Everytime it cranked over and started right back up no problems.Now today i lost charge... gauge went all the way down to nothing and the check gauges light came on.After driving home I shut it off and turned it back on... the voltage read around the 12v mark as I believe it should if it is just pulling off the batteries but not charging.I took the alternator off and had it tested... they claimed it was bad and though skeptical I got a new one which didnt change anythingI cleaned all the battery terminals and had the batteries tested.. both checked out goodNow I am at a losspossibly time for a new PCM? I realize that it could be just about anything when it comes to electrical though.

Good deal I'm going to be in the market for a timbo apps in the future also.... Just started noticing a spot in the pedal where my acceleration kind of drops off when I'm under easy acceleration Sent from mobile

Which gauge?I'm assuming you mean the water temp gauge The temp of the oil is what should be higher I believe Someone correct me if I'm wrong because I'm not completely sure.. Does it actually heat the block? Even if it does it'll only heat the coolant inside the block Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just worried because i discovered it in removing the intake tube to double check that it was an hx versus hy.... Never actually had checked since all nv5600's HO's and hx35's go hand in hand... I think?Anyways I just found a trade with a s300g I want as to clean up my 7x9's ... He wants to go back to stock to save for ppump and larger turboBut now with this discovery .... Sounds like nothing would have hurt the compressor impeller itself ? Air cooler and everything else aside I just don't want to be the one to screw te other over.Sorry if I keep bringing this thread upSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have a hose from the inlet into a container with fuel it should be a good way to check and eliminate air leaks and blockage... But seriously is it spinning the wrong way? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't mean reversed in that manner.... I meant the input output marked on it are backwardsThe raptor pumps used to be that way anyway. Maybe they got one mixed up againSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uh oh... Is it backwards? Try the other side. Seems improbable but they used to be backwards. By the time I got mine they were fixed.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"The bore is a perfect circle but the piston has to break in and since wear is going to happen during this period, they make them ovular so that the side load of the piston will wear them back down to a perfect circle."In my understanding this isn't necessarily true."Cam ground" pistons are somewhat oval with the dimensions parallel to the pin being somewhat longer than the distance across the pin. This is of course when measuring at roomTemp.The reason being is that the added mass and different material of the pin means less expansion. By using cam ground pistons once operating temps are reached the piston will be round.Another thing is tapered cylinders. The top of the cylinder is a smaller diameter. This makes sense because the top is going to see more heat therefore expanding more. Tapering the cylinder allows for it to be straight at operational temperatures.This is a bigger issue with air cooled engines however because they see hotter temps and typically less evenCooling.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aww but it jut finally got cold and snowyOh well I guess it'll be coming off anyway if I get the s300g turboAnd your right why risk any more going through the engineSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another thing....Besides wiping it up with a rag or taking it off are there any ways I can clean it? It's not gritty just oily so I was thinking maybe a hot water misting/spritzing while it's running?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yep i picked up a bhaf from napa today and put it on as soon as i got home then i made the post :)im pretty disappointed i didnt just do that right away now it made everything all dirty it used to look like mikes.....well on the inside anywayi am relieved that its not the turbo having leaky seals though... and i dont believe that it would have really damaged it any would it have?im supposed to be trading this turbo for an s300g in a week or so and i dont want to give the guy a turbo thats been damaged

Well I had been noticing that my filter seemed a little bit dirty but never thought to check the turbo Yesterday I noticed it had an oil residue which I could of sworn it was perfectly clean with the oem filter 15,000 miles ago I just picked up and replaced with the napa 6637 part number filter Do you think my amsoil filter wasn't working so great or would this residue be from a seal within the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guess I'm wrongSo I guess either way we have to be careful of a failed gauge reading its last know?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember A failed electronic Sender will hold the reading it failed atFailed mechanical gauge will read ZeroSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know I know ... I thought the big line kit was coming with a snubber valve and was too lazy to mess with getting it on beneath the stock filter and now that spot is seeping as u can see.. I should address this sooner than later --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.665360,-84.291778