leon

All he had was a 165 so I picked that up.

Well then, I guess I'm headed to the local diesel shop to buy an Airdog system. Probably go with the 100 since my truck is bone stock, and I have no ambitions of rodding it. Maybe a tuner for a little more hp one day but thats it.

I'm gonna try the lift pump first before buying the VP. My buddy wants me to get a $700 Air Dog kit but Oreilly's has a Precision model for $144 with lifetime warranty. If it was my 12v this would be a no brainer as I'm keeping that truck forever but this 24v wants to nickel and dime me. Not sure I'll keep this one forever. Any thoughts on which pump to get?

Just did another fuel pressure test. At idle fuel pressure is 12 lbs. At WOT got dropped to 2 lbs.

Am I missing something, but if the VP is getting less fuel, would that not be a lift pump failure? Meaning a bad supply to the VP?

At idle under a load fuel pressure is about 11 lbs. At 60 mph/2000 rpms fuel pressure was about 2-3 lbs. When it acted up and I got dead peddle fuel pressure went up to 4-5 lbs. The 2000 rpms is strange. That seems a little high for that mph.

Yeah, I've been running TCW3 2 cycle in just about every fill up since reading that was best for lubricity. However I bought the truck with 300k on her so I know the previous owner wasn't doing the same. My lift pump is on the frame. I may pick up another one, switch it out, and blow out the lines depending on what the fuel pressure gauge says. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than the vp44. I called a local diesel shop to see if they sell rebuilt vp44's but they haven't called back. Is that a bad idea?

Got a buddy bringing a fuel pressure gauge tonight and we're gonna see what we get. What would normal pressures be?

Wanted to add the truck starts with no problem. I thought I read somewhere a sign of a bad vp44 was hard to start. It's certainly weird the problem started as soon as o hit that bad/bumpy rr crossing at 65mph.

What's the best reliable and economical replacement for the vp44? Truck is bone stock.

P1693 is the only code that comes up. Now we have P0216, P1693, P1698 coming up.

Ok, I'll either run it by Advanced Auto parts or see if I can borrow one.

Check engine light never came on. Will there still be error codes?

Yesterday I was coming home from a trip to the hunting property. Truck was running fine and then I hit a railroad track at 60 mph, when all of a sudden the engine got loud (valves seemed to clanked louder than norma) and I lost some throttle power. I never lost total power, just the majority. I could press the pedal 2/3 of the way down but didn't have much power. If I floored it, it downshifted hard and threw the rams up, but I didn't want to run it like that so I didn't do it but once. Other than hitting the rr track pretty hard, the only thing out of the ordinary was I filled up with fuel a few hours prior. I had a quarter tank prior to refueling (water in fuel possibly??). I limped her the rest for the 45 miles home and made these observations: 1. 90% of the time if I let off the throttle, the depressed the throttle I would regain full power, sometimes for a short period, sometimes for several miles. 2. Oil pressure and temp were normal. 3. Auto trans was half a quart low so I topped it off. 4. No leaks or loss of fluids. Starts with no issue, however since I bought this truck in December it takes a while for the wait to start to come on. Another member here said that is indicative of the ECM going bad (could this be related??). I still don't know why it won't appear in my sig, but this is a 1999 3500 QC 4x4 CTD with 337,000 on the clock.

Hmmm...looks like you can see the front wheel behind the simulator too me. Maybe I'm wrong.

I got a quote for $125 per tire to have my wheels powder coated, and that doesn't include the tire removal, mount and balance. Too rich for my blood. Is it just me or does it look like the above only did the simulators/wheel covers?

No complaints out of my 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Are these wheels powder coated? Can I assume if so, someone had to remove the tires then take the wheels somewhere to be done? Might do something like this to my '99 3500.

Stopped by the stealership and priced out new door weather strips. With a straight face, he told me it was $600! I gave him a couple of seconds for to smile, and give me the real price. When it was clear he was serious, I thanked him, picked up my teeth, and left. Any advice on where to purchase replacement?

This is the same size tire I run now, only on Nitto. I'm worried wether the 4th gen wheels will fit a 2nd gen tho.

Is there any reason why these would not bolt up to my 1995 2500 12v 4x4? I mean the set of A/T tires alone costs $1000 these days, the newer wheels would be sharp in my opinion. https://gainesville.craigslist.org/wto/6086617428.html

Just curious because I put a 2" HBS leveling kit on my 12v and it rode like @$$. I tried to ask about this 3 times over at the Cummins forum and each post was deleted, with no reasoning for why. I like it much better here!!! Back on topic, after installation my truck rode terrible so I took it off! My guess is the shocks were stretched to the max and had no give. I would think longer shocks would've helped.

Do you think Hubby's has 16", 2nd gen simulators/wheel covers for dually's? I'm missing one on mine and it's driving me crazy. Do they have a website?

Unless of course its cracked like mine…but I understand what you really meant :-)

Is there any reason to go stainless if the truck is stock?

So I degreased the motor, and my mechanic friend stole my truck truck while I was out of town and replaced the hemorrageing tappet cover gasket. He pointed out that I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, and showed it to me. That bumps up that repair to the top of the list. So I priced one at Orieley's and it's not too bad ($250ish). Are exhaust manifolds all the same, or should I stay away from the chain store part? Any thing to watch out for, other than cracking bolts, etc?