leon

So a 2" leveling will require longer front shocks?

I will give the straight Zep (rinsed quickly and thouroughly) a shot. Any advantage to leaving the engine running?

Any tips or tricks to degreasing my motor? Need to get her cleaned up and attempt to tackle my leaking tappet cover. Seems like all the degreasers Ive bought most recently aren't very strong anymore. Simple Green, Purple Power as we as the Orange stuff don't seem very powerful. Anything I should really avoid getting wet (I know there is no distributor but is there something else important?).

Does my signature not show my trucks listed in it? I thought I put them in there, and it shows on my profile.

Looking at geno's and LMC replacement dash's and dash covers (cheaper!) I'm contemplating which route to go. Has anyone tried the dash cover and is it worth doing or should I bite the bullet and replace the dash? I am not talking about the carpet dash cover.

Yeah, my '95 12v 4x4 Reg cab drives straight as an arrow and always has. My '99 24v dually has new(ish) tires all the way around and appear to be in great shape, hit a bump wrong with the play it has in the steering and the DW starts. I have to slam on brakes and/or turn the wheel "out of the play" to get it to stop. I do not doubt my front end is wore out. I've been in limbo over wether to tear it apart myself or take it somewhere and drop a grand (I'm sure!) to get a new front end. Seems like it should be easy but I know nothing about tie rods, Pittman arms, sway bars, drag links, etc!!!!

Stock wheels and tires, 3500 dually.

From what I'm reading a BHAF really doesn't give any advantage unless your truck has mods to support it, i.e. more fuel, etc. My plan was to go with a turbo back, 4'" exhaust and a BHAF. I mean it just makes good sense to me that it would be advantageoiuos for the truck to breathe better. Other than hearing the turbo whine (which I really don't care anything about) is there really no reason to do it if I don't have any mods?

Got the death wobble going when I hit a bump wrong, so I suppose it's time for a brace box. Is one as good as another, are they all the same or is there some to stay away from?

Rear is 12" and front is at 9" so I guess she's not as tired on the front as I was thinking. Thanks guys!

Good question. How can I tell for sure?

My 99 3500 qc dually 4x4 looks a little tired on the front end, almost like she's sagging. What are my options here? A good set of Billsteins? In her previous life she pulled a gooseneck carrying a 60hp tractor every day. She seems awfully happy not to be dragging that thing around anymore. I sporadically pull heavy weight with her, 40 hp tractor, dump trailer, etc.

Probably the 111067. I found these also but Anzo was given an endorsement on this thread. http://www.dodgeramupgrades.com/1994-2001-dodge-ram-crystal-housing-headlight-chrome-spec-d-2lh-ram94-abm-p-600573.html

I believe I will go with these and the Flosser bulbs (9104?) mentioned in the other post. Anyone know of a reason why it wouldn't work?

Dumb question here, but after you back off a full turn what are you looking for? How do you know it's right?

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No excessive a/c noise, however terminals at the batteries are not the ideal connections and need to be replaced. Hoping that's my problem.

I've noticed on my 1999 24v that the WTS light takes a while to come on. All other lights have come on and off before the WTS light comes on. And there is no cranking the truck without that light coming on. My 12v is not that way.

Diesel pump nozzle is usually larger in circumference than unleaded. At least that's the case here in the Southeast.

I put a Bluetooth radio for hands free talking. That was a nice idea but only thing it's good for is playing Pandora thru my phone. My old Cummins is WAY too loud for anyone to be able to hear me clearly.

dripley, there are some places that offer bio but I just run regular diesel.

Bye bye DK, hello full time 2 cycle with TCW3. Maybe I just wasn't use to how clackety the 24v is compared to my 12v but t damn sure seems quieter. Maybe I just got used to it.

So I'm on my 2nd full tank of diesel in my new to me 1999 3500 24v. Each with a bottle of Diesel Kleen (40 gal treatment quantity) and I must say the Diesel Kleen really seems to have quieted the clackety clack down. At $8-$10 per bottle I don't think I will be doing that at every fill up for much longer, but will continue sporadically. I'm certain the previous owner NEVER ran any sort of additive or "helper" fluids so I'm trying to do what I can to get her back in to shape. I am subscribing to what I've read, that 2 cycle oil with TCW3 added to the fuel will help to keep things lubricated, including the lift pump and will hopefully extend the life of it. It makes sense that the new diesel isn't keeping things lubed like thes old Cummins need. My question is this. When running Diesel Kleen should I run the 2 cycle at the same time? Seems kind of redundant.

I heard a 4" straight piped 12v Cummins with a resonator that sounded awesome on YouTube. I'm thinking now I might go that route. Whats the difference between a resonator and a flow thru muffler?

Would like to know more about this.