
Everything posted by trreed
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trreed's upgrade thread
I agree, it sure would be nice to have that!
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trreed's upgrade thread
That was all him lol. I stood by and provided encouragement.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Yesterday I made a trip down to @TFaoro's shop to put a Fast cooler on my truck and do a pinion seal. While there I was able to witness his new p pumped truck start up and go back together, while putting my truck back together. The Fast cooler allowed for 7 quarts of brand new Synchromesh to be put in the trans, and it was very happy. And the pinion seal stopped the gear oil from getting all over the underside of my truck.... Pictures below are of Tyler's truck, the Fast cooler on my truck, and of my (girlfriend's) puppy Nala, who accompanied me down and back.
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Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
Well there's no exciting data log to look at because the truck didn't do it today. Quadzilla plugged back in, same SO tune as above, and on level 3. So using Roadkill logic, that means it's fixed, right?? Just kidding, I'll still keep an eye on it
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Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
This issue started after driving on a very long washboarded gravel road. At first it would pop in gear and free revving, but towards the end of the road when I unplugged it, it would pop once when in gear, not at all when it was slowly free revved, and really badly when it was quickly free revved. I will give OEM style timing a try and will do my best to get a data log of it
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Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
@Me78569, @TFaoro, or anyone else who may be able to help: I just switched to a SO vp, and I have found that my daily driving tune needs to be tweaked to fit the new pump. Everything was going fine until tonight, when the truck started acting up. When revving, at the 1500 rpm point, the truck starts surging and popping, with plenty of white smoke. I know this was a timing problem addressed before, so I am surprised to see it pop back up. I am on the latest version of the Hard Fuel tune. When the Quad is completely disconnected, the truck behaves normally again, so I'm hoping the issue is in my tuning. Below I will post both my old HO pump tune and the new SO pump tune, in hopes someone can spot what I am missing. First, the old HO pump tune: Power Levels: 11 Timing Fuel Load Timing: 1* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Light Throttle Timing Adv: 2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 15* 2000: 18* 2500: 22* 3000: 24* Timing Max: 25* Wiretap Pump Stretch: 1800 us TPS Pump max: 100% TPS Pump Min: 15% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 2 psi Boost Scaling: 25 psi RPM Limit: 3300 Power Reduction: 70% 0 PSI %: 83 1 PSI %: 83 2 PSI %: 84 3 PSI %: 85 4 PSI %: 86 5 PSI %: 87 6 PSI %: 88 7 PSI %: 90 8 PSI %: 92 9 PSI %: 95 10 PSI %: 97 11 PSI %: 99 12 PSI %: 101 13 PSI %: 103 14 PSI %: 105 15 PSI %: 109 16 PSI %: 111 18 PSI %: 113 20 PSI %: 115 22 PSI %: 117 24 PSI %: 119 26 PSI %: 121 28 PSI %: 123 30 PSI %: 124 And now for the new SO pump tune: Power Levels: 11 Timing Fuel Load Timing: 1* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Light Throttle Timing Adv: 2.5 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 15* 2000: 18* 2500: 22* 3000: 24* Timing Max: 25* Wiretap Pump Stretch: 1800 us TPS Pump max: 100% TPS Pump Min: 15% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 2 psi Boost Scaling: 25 psi RPM Limit: 3300 Power Reduction: 70% 0 PSI %: 86 1 PSI %: 87 2 PSI %: 88 3 PSI %: 89 4 PSI %: 90 5 PSI %: 91 6 PSI %: 92 7 PSI %: 93 8 PSI %: 94 9 PSI %: 95 10 PSI %: 97 11 PSI %: 99 12 PSI %: 101 13 PSI %: 103 14 PSI %: 105 15 PSI %: 109 16 PSI %: 111 18 PSI %: 113 20 PSI %: 115 22 PSI %: 117 24 PSI %: 119 26 PSI %: 121 28 PSI %: 123 30 PSI %: 124 So the new tune is basically the same as the old tune, with different CANBus settings and a 3* timing advance instead of 2*. Any thoughts on why the truck would start missing? This tune worked fine for a few hours and then the truck started to act up.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Sounds good. Finished up my coolant line bracket tonight. It was very simple, just two holes in a piece of angle iron . It will be painted black with high temp paint and installed tomorrow. Also gave her a bath tonight, to clean up the diesel from bleeding lines and to get two weeks of tree gunk off of her...
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trreed's upgrade thread
It is collecting data for @TFaoro's coolant bypass. I have it hooked to my Quad's fuel pressure gauge to see what the coolant pressures are at the back of the cylinder head, while Tyler is collecting pressure data from the freeze plug at the back of the block. This way he can select the best pressure release valve for his coolant bypass system.
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Verifying HX35/40 turbo size
Yes they would both be 62 mm turbos.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Oh that's a great idea! I'll be sure to go buy some in the next day here. Just got back from a test drive with the new VP.. Truck idles much quieter now, though that might be the 3 piece manifold. @Me78569, I noticed my CANBus numbers were jumping anywhere between 310-422, whereas with the old HO pump, the numbers would jump between 168-298. Any thoughts? The pictures below just show how everything looks with the new manifold in place, and then with the compressor housing on, and finally the whole engine bay. It sure is good to have my truck back! Only thing left to do is to build a little bracket to hold the coolant line to the manifold... should take all of 5 minutes at school.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Unfortunately, I need to have the truck running in a few hours here, so the turbo polishing is going to have to wait. It is mostly finished, and a quick coat of aluminum polish should help keep the oxidation off until I can pull the housing off to finish it
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trreed's upgrade thread
I made some progress on polishing the turbo housing today. So far, all work has been done with a die grinder and a combination of 60 grit disks, a rust/paint stripper disk, and a scotchbrite disk. Despite the appearance of the picture, there is lots more sanding to do, and I think it'll all be hand sanding from here. The die grinder and disks used gave a nice base shine, but the finer sandpaper will bring the true shine out. I'm also thinking about spraying the "Borg Warner" black before the final sanding. I have stopped work because I have been informed it is Friday, which means it is Date Night, so work will resume tomorrow. For a frame of reference, here is the turbo before I started polishing it..
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Teardown and Rebuild
Looks like everything is on sale now. I remember having to buy #22 at $65...
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Teardown and Rebuild
@notlimah here's where I got the clamps I needed: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=659993
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Teardown and Rebuild
@notlimah I found some clamps on some mopar overstock site online. @TFaoro Intake plenum bolts are M8x1.25x25mm
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trreed's upgrade thread
- trreed's upgrade thread
So the S300 series have a V-band style exhaust outlet, so a bolt on style exhaust brake like the ones offered for a HX35 would not work. I would think it would be possible to find a he351 style exhaust brake and make that work, if desired, because the he351 has the v-band clamp. I have not run the hybrid, so I cannot compare the two, but the 68mm exhaust wheel moves a lot of volume, and then so does the compressor wheel. Differences in 12cm and 14cm housings is the area the exhaust gas has to run around before exiting. So a 12cm housing is smaller, and therefore would spool faster than a larger 14 cm housing. This turbo is non-gated and a rather large sized housing for the elevation I'm at (~6000 ft) so spooling is noticeably slower than my old S362/65/12, and when towing, the lag is definitely noticeable. But the 125 hp injectors push enough fuel and the large trailer puts enough load on the engine that the turbo spools faster. For your needs, I would recommend something like a Industrial Injection Phatshaft 62 (a 62/65/12), as it would be a good upgrade for you, but unfortunately the EB would not bolt up anymore and a 4" EB would be needed. @TFaoro has one if the II phstshafts and loves it.- trreed's upgrade thread
The intake horn is chromed steel. It's from a Crazy Carl's twin kit that Tyler had. Only reason I have it is to have a mechanical boost gauge to compare to the Quadzilla. And unfortunately, it does not have any tab for the dipstick tube, so zip ties it is!- Rebuilding a Holset HX35/40W turbo
They do seem to be struggling with their injector shipments.... ask @TFaoro about that- trreed's upgrade thread
@BBHD it's not cracked. It's actually @TFaoro'a stock one that he wants me to sell haha. @notlimah I have a S362/68/14 that I've been running for a few months now, and that's that one going back on the truck.- Rebuilding a Holset HX35/40W turbo
I bet that lag will be just about gone when the big injectors show up- trreed's upgrade thread
I've got a stock manifold and a stock intake horn, a stock air box, and a stock fuel filter housing.... I've also got a full stock exhaust and a 62/65/12 from DPS Got the VP in this afternoon, along with getting the lines painted and reinstalled, and got the intake horn put back in place, which finished up the VP replacement. All that's left is to get the manifold and the turbo on. @TFaoro, no pictures of the compressor housing just yet.- trreed's upgrade thread
Yeah, that's all the filter mounts by. There are two hoses as well, but I already had those disconnected from the fass install- trreed's upgrade thread
I did. I removed both the stock filter and the replacement lift pump block.- trreed's upgrade thread
I replaced the longer bolts that held the stock filter housing to the intake plenum with two M8x1.25x25mm bolts, which are the same length as the other bolts in the plenum. I then took the aluminum replacement block the dealer put in place of the original fuel pump off and taped the old supply line up, completely removing the stock fuel components off the side of the block. - trreed's upgrade thread