bronzebeard9

awesomw!! thanks man, that makes sense:thumb1:

to warm up the tranny fluind you can set your park brake put it in neutral and that engages the tranny pump to circulate the fluid..what is nice about the edge juice with attitude is you can monitor the temp and the engine load...high idle there is a load...and the 3 cylinder indle yesterday when i was mointoring it at 34 degrees out was about 40% engine load!!!sweet huh? yeah that is nice!! the edge juice has the oftware for the high idle and the 3 cylinder idle doesn't it? i remember looking at one that had all sorts of mods as well as the idle features......i think i have another plan, i'll try it out this evening and try taking a couple pics for you gus...... --- Update to the previous post...

My truck sat for about three months before I got it rolling again, now that I have it up and runnin, my tranny intermittently decides to stop shifting through the gears, it will lock in second and not want to shift through. If I drop in neutral and then put it back in drive it seems to take care of it for at least a little while. the fluid and filter have about 3,700mi on it but the bands have never been adjusted (a auto trany guru I am not) its been in the low teens to the negative single digits and the truck has not been up to full operating temp since I got it running (I still have to put a high temp thermostat in it and get a winter front on it) not sure if the cold weather and sitting for a long period of time coupled with the fact that it hasn't had a lot of drive time on it and hasn't been thoroughly warmed up and put through its paces would effect the proper function of the tranny, any thoughts would be much appreciated, thanks guys!! --- Update to the previous post... i take it back, it sticks in 1st and 2nd, putting it in neutral and then dropping it back in gear is still "unsticking" the trany but is getting frustrating..... fluid level is good, fluid still seems to have good lubricity, i used the proper type of trany fluid and a few months ago before i parked it i didn't have ANY problems with the thing (i HATE auto transmissions) next step, i'm changing the fluid, if that has no affect i'm adding a stop slip fluid modifier (against OEM standards for a 47RE) and hope it buys me enough time to get my 5 speed shipped to Alaska, i have a 12v duelly in Washington that got flooded a few years ago, but it was a good price…..$FREE.99

well, i'm glad i could give you guys something to laugh about!! you guys have no sense of adventure!! at least my way could on occasion lead you on a wild chase around the neighbor hood trying to figure out where your truck ran off to..... on a more serious note, how exactly would it harm the trany? i mean we have all sat at a stop light for a few minutes, most of us probably do it several times a day so for the guys with autos how would it be any different from having the truck in drive with the parking brake applied? i sat in it for about 4 minutes this morning with it in drive (no i didn't leave it un attended) and the temp started to jump so i put it in park and finished gathering all my stuff up for work (probly another 4-5 min) and by the time i was back out it was plenty warm. in Palmer Alaska this morning it was a balmy -4deg and normally at that temp it would take a mile or 2 before the temp rose enough to start heating up the cab....

Yeah, I know it isn't safe but I was just toying around with the idea and possibly thinking of making a better braking system, still in the design phase but thought it was a good idea.Great idea ISX!:ahhh:Who needs a generator???

i just went out and fired up "Blue" (my truck) its about 8deg out and its gunna take a while to get her warmed up, so i was thinking, rather than a mechanical high idle mod, what if i put the engine under load? would there be a problem with simply applying the parking brake and dropping it into drive? (aside from having the vehicle running and in gear without anyone in it...... but i would be in it so that is a non issue, the only way i would consider leaving it unattended would be if there was a safer system or if i could devise a safer system other than the parking brake) seems to me it would warm up a lot quicker if it were under load and i think that would also solve the problem of exhaust valve "gunk" build up that occurs when a diesel is left to idle for extended periods. anyone have any thoughts on the idea? i decided i needed to edit the original post as i was not conveying my entire thought process, what i added is in bold and italicized .

this is awesome guys!! great work. thats what has me hooked on this site, everyone thinks outside the box and tries new ideas, most of which may seem very unconventional but once you do a little reading, the amount of research and the knowledge of these trucks you all posses shines through. again, great work guys and keep it up!!

well, this post has gone a completely different direction from where i started and i realize that, I'll do a writeup on swapping HO and SO pumps but wanted to wrap this up and let everyone know what happened with the VP pump swap......i got the HO pump installed last night, i would have posted something yesterday but i had a friend come and give me a hand, by the time we were done we were not sober enough to take it for a victory lap around the neighborhood, my wife drove us. the truck is fully functional with the high output pump, that is the ONLY thing i changed, i didn't even change the o ring on the VP44 (the one on the used pump i bought looked to be brand spankin new) we erased all the old error codes once we got the HO pump in (before we got it started) we bled the lines but still had to crank on it for a bit, once it fired up, zero error codes!! it has been a little while since i drove my cummins, however it seems to get on step a little quicker and has a slight gain in HP, we only took it for a short trip but i am interested to see what my mileage will be like if any different at all.....did i mention it was -5 out and i did half the work outside before my friend showed up?!?!? we spent about 2 hours rearranging crap in the garage and another 30minutes getting the thing maneuvered into the garage!!:banghead:

okay....wait a second here, i havent really looked in depth to the fixes they have on the market for the KDP, but i have read up on the damage that can result from this thing.i have read about the pin falling out and grinding through the case, this would be steel pin vs. pot metal aluminum case scenario. the second, pin falls behind the case, moving through the inner working parts of the engine tearing its way through rendering it completely unsalvagable, this would be the "oh crap, im screwed" scenario....looking at the pictures below, this solution would only keep the pin from falling foward into the gear case side of things.....what about the engine?!?!? am i missing something here? did they put a taper at the rear of the hole for the pin? [ATTACH=CONFIG]2260[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]2261[/ATTACH]

Michael..am i right in thinking this is the updated case..by updated i mean post KDP problem i have heard of SOME but not many people having KDP issues through 01 and i beleive i have even heard of a few 02 trucks having KDP syndrome (i have an 01 and have been procrastinating looking into fixing mine, i think i'll break down this week end and fix 'er up) i think everyone with a 2nd gen cummins has to worry about this. correct me if im wrong, but dodge tried to fix this problem by side punching the pin or pressing it in a little tighter or something, but never actually took the time to put in a viable means of retaining the dowel pin like a set screw or even a tack weld should work well.....? regardless, nice post, thanks for the pics!!

i did see a few complaints on swapping SO pumps to HO engines but not the other way around, the problem people were having is the SO pump wasnt pushing through their injectors (HO had a higher pop pressure due to more fuel flow, at least thats what i got from it all) and was causing the truck to idle a little rough but everyone said smooth sailing once they opened up the throttle and when they put a fuel box on and jumped the fuel supply or swaped out injectors they said the thing ran like a raped ape, no problems with using the HO IP on an SO Cummins tho.....i guess we will see, plus the little extra fuel flow should be nice.... i know what you are all thinking.....this guy is:cookoo: but if nothing else, its gunna be an interesting experiment and i'll have a HO IP to trade with if everything goes sideways on me:thumb1:

well.....actually i found a couple dozen quotes from other guys saying it worked fine without any mods to the SO engine.....for example there is this one HO VP44 in a SO motor? "Hey guys all I need to know is if this will work. I have a good used HO pump from an 01 and a 99 that needs a pump. I want to put this pump on the SO motor. I know the HO pump wont support as much power and the SO is a better pump, so save you breath. Its going in a stock 99 with an auto so i dont want alot of power. It does have an edge, but it stays on a low setting. The truck just needs to run good. I am about to order some parts, but i wanted to double check before i spend the money. And please only post if you know for sure. Thanks! __________________ 2001 Dodge Sport QCSB, NV5600, TST PowerMax3, AD150 FP, Straight pipe, leveling kit, No Silencer ring 1999 Dodge Sport QCSB Auto, Edge, K&N, 5" exhaust " a couple people argued that it would work, a few argued that it wouldn't, another guy said he was running an HO pump on an SO engine.....latter he updated further down the thread i was reading that.... "Just an update- I got the pickup running last night. It runs great with the HO VP44. I dont know what everyone is talking about when they say you cant put an HO pump on an SO motor. I didnt do anything with the computer either. __________________ 2001 Dodge Sport QCSB, NV5600, TST PowerMax3, AD150 FP, Straight pipe, leveling kit, No Silencer ring 1999 Dodge Sport QCSB Auto, Edge, K&N, 5" exhaust " i also found this thread..... HO/SO vp44 swap "has anyone dealt with swapping a HO vp44 with a standard output vp44? farmboy is trying to talk me into it but i think he wasn't exactly sure about swapping ecm's. anybody that has any experience with it please let me know what all was involved and if it worked out as well as planned. reason being: hrvp44 on my truck i've heard won't go to 4k rpm's like the standard output trucks. i should say it probably won't go to 4k as well...i'm sure it will, just might not do it more than once. __________________ 02 2500 qc sb 6sp 4x4, edge comp, fass, scheid hrvp44, HTT 66/14, F1 mach 6's, HTT pulse manifold, alltran clutch, k&n, twin 7" mitres, BOO SPEEDHUT GAUGES! " another guy on the same thread says that..... "Do it. I've talked with just about every bosch certified injection pump shop in the country. Almost all of them told me they have done it and do it on a regular basis. Can you guess which ones told me I couldn't do it and that I would have problems? When I asked about the problems I would incounter I got the same response from all of them "it just wont work." Gus knows what he's talking about. If you want to hear from other vendors that will tell you to do it call ollee and bob. JJ " another guy, same thread "How much for the sheid hot rod? I am interested. I recently switched my SO out for an HO. My VP went out and I slapped on a good HO to get me by until I got a good replacement pump - whatever flavor that may be. " or this guy..... "Or someone like me running a HO on an SO. It got me home when I was 2000 miles from home, but I want an SO back on it. What kind of trade are you thinking? " i found a few more stating they had been running HO pumps with no mods to their trucks for several years!! most of the time it started out as a quick, last ditch repair to solve a blown SO VP44 and they never got arround to trading back to the SO pump. also, a bunch of guys said with the little extra fuel pressure from the ho pump they put 100hp injectors and got closer to 120 out of them.....for the $350.00 the guy wants for the HO pump its worth it to me to try it out....along with some 100 horse injectors:cool: my trucks broke, i figure this is a good time to mess with it.....tinker around a little. i'll letcha know how it works out.....if nothing else i'll get a core charge out of the dang thing!! (Cummins Northwest in Anchorage wants a $1,500.00 core charge for a VP44....theivin SOB's)

well......good news and bad regarding my VP. bad news is not only was my pump seized (internal mechanical workings were froze and bound up) but also my electronics pack was about toast......i noticed a little bit of discoloration on the chip board/electronics pack where some little doodad thingamabob burned up, however the soldering connections shown in the picture provided by "edcasey" were fine.....i noticed this AFTER i honed everything out and got the mechanical side to operate again!! so all for nothing as i dont have a test bench laying around to program a new electronics pack:lmao:.....maybe some day. good news from all of this is the pumps can be hit with some light sand paper and honing compound to be refurbished!! in the mean time, i found an HO pump for $350.00 will it work on my SO engine? would i need to swap injectors and maybe a new ECM.....but that would probly put me right back into the price range of just buying a new VP44.....? thanks guys!!

Alright guys, sorry I haven’t gotten back to my pump rebuild for a while now, just been busy..... so I FINALLY got my truck towed over to a buddy’s shop and got the pump pulled the other day, I'll be starting the tear down this weekend so I'll letcha all know what I come up with and post some pictures in the next week or two, and as far as the electronics board is concerned, everyone is absolutely correct, if the board is fried it has to be calibrated on a bench, however! There are two connections that apparently burn out regularly, the board its self doesn't necessarily fry, just two leads coming off of the electronics pack! They overheat, become brittle and over time the solder or the wire itself deteriorates and fails, from what I hear it’s painfully obvious if this is the case as you can look at the wires and see that "oh!! That wire is not connected to anything" I will try to find some pictures of these wires. Again, it never hurts to try and I don't mind being the guinea pig....that’s how this stuff gets figured out

That’s a good buy; even for a dead vp.....turn it in for the core charge!! BAHAHAHA!!! I was lookin and they actually have tons of rebuild kits online, they have all the gaskets and from what it looks like a bunch of little brass shims....I think the trick is going to be taking pictures at every stage of disassembly to keep from screwing up assembly as Mr. Bosch has patented the assembly and disassembly procedures for his pump….how convenient….$100k+ for a test bench, you have to pay for the tear down instructions, you cant buy most of the parts unless you are a Bosch certified repair tech (wonder how much it costs to become a “certified” repair tech), or you can spend $1’100+ to buy a rebuild…..I don’t think so!! ENOUGH IS ENOUGH!!

You are never going to believe it, the vp44 CAN be "rebuilt" in your shop/garage/lean-to!! Since my pump went out I have been feverishly searching for a cheap fix or the at least the cheapest rebuild I could possibly find……how does about $40.00 sound?!?! I have researched this in depth and found the common problems that cause vp44 failure, most of them are manufacturing process related (burrs left on metal components, pump case wearing through due to lack of lubrication, and parts seizing due to improper lubrication) Once the components have worn down they seize and of course the pump stops working, the less common failure is the electrical pack solders become weak and loose their proper connection, the connections could possibly be re-soldered but for the most part, when the electronics fail the pump has to be sent in as the electrical pack is calibrated to connect to the ECM on a calibration bench and unless you have a 100k to drop on a bench you may as well get a reman pump. As for the rest of the internal moving parts, it seemed to me you could just replace them….better yet, I found a guy that simply honed the parts and sanded them down with some fine grit sanding paper to relieve the clearance on these parts, he replaced the gaskets and lo and behold….his truck is now running!! I am in the process of ordering the gasket set he found and also am looking for the proper tool to remove the tamperproof bolts that hold the pump together, within the next couple weeks I will be attempting to rebuild my pump assuming the internal parts are seized and the electronics pack is not toast, once I have it apart it should be relatively obvious what the culprit is….. Here is a link to the site I found this information on, http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/vp44-rebuilding-t111329.html in this thread you will find the part number as well as the contact information for ordering the gasket set to fix what is a ridiculously expensive problem for an otherwise excellent truck. This already worked out for at least one guy that had a bit of common sense and know how, I see no reason the same line of thought wouldn’t take care of many peoples vp44 headaches!! GAWD I HOPE THIS WORKS!!!!!!!

That’s what Daimler Chrysler corp. wants for a new VP44 plus A $600 core charge on top of that, Napa wanted $1900 plus a $400 core charge....anyone ever tried P-pumping a 24v? I have heard of it being done but am not sure of all the required modifications....seems to me having an oil cooled P-pump without all the electronic garbage in it like the VP44 would be a worth while modification?!?!....thanks for the info!!

so, I made it back up to Alaska (3276 miles in 3 days, not bad eh?) I didn't put more than 80 some miles on the truck after we got back to our home town, and the pump goes out, at least I'm pretty sure its the injection pump. I opened the fuel/water separator and turned on the key, the lift pump was pushing plenty of fuel out of the line, I cracked one of the nuts on the high pressure lines by the valve cover, I didn't get more than a couple of bubbles of fuel out of the line. I haven’t had a chance to pull it apart and inspect anything (its still in the parking lot at my work, it broke down about a mile from work on my first day back) so I'm not sure what’s going on exactly, is there any way to test the injection pump before I go waste $2,100 on a new one from the dealer? (or does anyone know where to find them any cheaper? ) Here was the scenario, I'm doin 55mph with the truck on cruse control, I lost power so I turned off cruse control and throttled up, the engine is still idling but not producing any rpm's, just idling so at first I'm thinking throttle linkage or possibly tranny is gone and im not getting any acceleration from it, it idles while rolling to a stop for about 60-80 feet then sputters out and the engine dies while I’m turning onto the shoulder. It turns over just fine and doesn't seem to have any problems aside from a lack of fuel through the high pressure lines, another thing I remember, just after it sputtered out, I was looking at the gauges, the odometer flashed the words "pmp done" Has anyone ever heard of this?!?! :banghead::banghead:

yup, checked all the universals, thanks.....an nv5600?? why is a six speed any better than a 5!?!?! especially when production has all but stopped and dealers don't even have parts?.....i can see it now..."finally got that 6 speed in"...."oh dang, i broke my 6 speed"....."hi dealer, do you have any parts?? you are my last hope"....dealer replies "NO!! you shouldn't have put in a 6 speed, now scrap the nv5600 and put in your tired old 47re!! MUAHAHAHA!!!!!":ahhh:.....no thanks! besides, i already have a NV4500 for the thing (can't beat free)

check this out!! 1,300 hp and 2,140 lb-ft of torque. don't believe me, look for yourself, and that's not even max output!!! http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/dodge/0808dp_2002_dodge_ram_cummins/index.html

here is a great step by step for anyone in the middle of or wanting to do a rebuild on their tranny, the guy has 90% of his posting done and it makes for a great read, very informative!! the list of dates on the right of his page contain all the step by step stuff for the rebuild he did..... http://joelsgarage.blogspot.com/2006/03/hi-and-howdy.html enjoy!!