Celtic Clamper

Thanks. I didnt realize that the color was checked in the selection.

Mike, did you replace all of the interior cab lights except the dash? What color temp did you use? Any chance you could give a quantity of required bulbs?

Twin turbos!

As soon as I saw it I realized I could maybe add an inline duct fan. Thanks for the idea. I would want something that noisy hidden, but the concept is there.

Thats way more than I expected. Thank you Stanley. I can machine and fabricate fairly well. You have gone far above and beyond. I owe you one.

Damn Stanley, you are going all in. I keep looking at my instrument cluster thinking I could do a better job with some Isspros and a piece of sheet metal. Considering fabbing some sheet metal door panels too.

I dont have that problem, but agree. My little farm town has me pushing 50 miles round trip to work. Let alone pulling the trailer, going 20 miles to the hardware store, etc. I push about 15k/year.

Mike, were you ever able to get the LX to offset and read the actual boost?

Looks like its time to pull the reciepts out of my truck file and send that letter. From what I found without being too weird stalker, he probably isnt a Facebook/forum kind of guy. I went in and had the dealer pull the record on it right away. I bought it at 105k miles. It had the lift pump and Inj pump changed at 88k. Yeah me. They had no record of the trans being done. It was obviously a newly rebuilt trans. I called all the trans shops within a couple hundred miles of his place, there was no record of the VIN. at any of them.

Probably. At the rate I am going It probably wont matter. I did the heater core and thought "man that coolant looks great." Looked over my records, water pump changed 10k miles ago.

Makes me wonder if the system could be protected by cathodic protection placed in one of the block ports.

It would be cool to know about the truck. It was babied. It is from a tiny area North of Missoula.

I figured I would have one of the papers in the envelope say, "Please leave me alone and do not attempt to contact me ever again." Reason I want to know so bad, is that my truck had better power than all 50 of the other 2nd Gens I tested. I also noticed a new trans under it. I would hate to spec a trans thinking it would be an upgrade, only to find out that I already had better.

I used new foam around my parts. Kind of copied the Mopar setup. The heater core needed a little encouragement to fit all the way down with the foam on. Remember that the foam is really used to block the air flow, and second as a cushion to keep the rattles down. So if the foam you get around the heater core is too tight, just line both sides of the heater core so that the air cannot bypass it. We use shutoff valves on heavy equipment all the time. It would greatly help the a/c in the hot months. But you will lose a little of your tempering ability. I will be installing inline bypasses later. I ran out of time and needed it back on the road. I am a fan of bypasses. But put them on the block. That way if you rupture a hose or core, its an easy repair and back on the road.

And if you have anyone there to help you, make sure that you reconnect your evaporator lines before closing up the dash. Its much easier on your lines if you can have someone in the cab backing them up while you are cussing and throwing tools trying to hook them up from the engine compartment.

I have done quite a bit of weatherstripping. I used the stuff from Lowe's, but used low density. I sprayed the area a little at a time with 3M spray adhesive. Just remember that a lot of people have problems with foam because they do not consider the pounds per square inch idea. Think of it like this, use the foam that you think is a little too soft, and just a hair bigger than you need. Because if you took a foam knee pad and used them as a sleeping pad that what you will find is that the foam is way too stiff to sleep on. You are trying to seal a plastic box, not a steel head gasket. If you get some low density 3/8" x 3/8", that should work for your box and your vents. I used medium density 1/4" around my heater core.

So I bought my 2nd Gen from a dealer in Arizona. When fabricating some interior parts I discovered 2 receipts from the previous owner. 1 had a last name, the other had a town. I googled it and found the address in no time. I asked my wife what she thought about me sending a self addressed stamped envelope to them with some questions about the truck. She said that was completely not ok. What is the general consensus on that?

It should be $35 for 2nd Gens. It is worth every penny. Because after I installed mine while building my box, I found out what it would have been like to need to go back and do it. I pressed mine down too far. The door would hang up. I had to use special punches to knock the door up, hoping that nothing broke. I tested my OE coupler before I took it all apart. Then replaced it with H.T. just because I was in there already. My OE coupler appeared fine. After I got it all back together I realized that I originally was only getting about 60% of the blender door capacity. All my doors were in great shape. All the foam was good also. It looked like my truck was garage kept and never used the a/c, or someone had already gone in there.

I used a bunch from Lowe's.

Stanley, you are a bad mofo! That saved me some time! I can calculate that all out if you can drop a tape measure or a known object into the pic. Can you also get me a height dimension of the lip on the bottom of the box, and maybe the height of the squirrel cage? Thanks a million. If you do the Heater Treater blender door upgrade, do not press it all together too tight. If the blender door sits too low it will hang up in the box. Its hell getting it separated once the box is in.

Thanks Bacon Creek. When I get time to get back at it, I will look to see what the amp draw and rpm are supposed to be and compare them.

I am pretty competent in electrical. I have not checked voltage at the plug. Because I checked rpm while powered through the switch and while being fed from my Powerprobe, and they were almost identical, I can assume that my wiring is all in relatively good condition. The squirrel cage could possibly be changed. If the motor was engineered a little oversized for warranty/service duty reasons, then there is potential power available for a slightly larger blower. If it is already maxed out, then in fact the extra power required to turn the larger squirrel cage will cause less air flow and burn up the motor. If the spec's check out, maybe it needs 24v to make it a hurricane. That said, I am looking into motor spec's and options. Once I finish spec'ing the stock blower, I will find a suitable more powerful blower assy, or faster motor with same other spec's. This will fix my flow problems. The main problem lies in that based on my expirience with air flows, I will need about 20%-30% increase to actually feel the air in the manner that I am expecting. Like I have stated, I am fairly confident that my stock system is working as engineered. I have cleaned the entire ducting, replaced most foam, and just finished going through the a/c system. I was just hoping someone had already done the leg work. Now I just need time off from work.

Stanley, do you mean voltage at the plug or maybe ohm out the motor? Mike, thats what I am looking into first. Easiest is to increase rpm, then look at different blowers, or give up and buy a 4th gen. I wanted to wait another year or 2 for the 4th Gen. I will continue on the 2nd Gen because I do not intend to ever sell it. Mike, glad to hear you are doing better.

I am a fabricator by trade. That will be looked into. Thanks.

Thanks. I tested it with my Power Probe, force feeding it, and almost have identical rpm. It is about the same as a few other second gens I have been in. I think it works correctly, I just want more wind than I think its capable of. To the point that I usually have a cowboy fan hanging on my passenger visor. I know people have been complaining of the same problem on Mega cabs. If I get something that pushes more air I will have to use the "Big Bore Kit" in its name! I have only found Chevy conversions for the 1st Gens. I will probably just make do, or keep the windows down. Thanks again.