Waydin_Stewart

Oh boy....so I just replaced the whole engine harness and pcm harness. So I should be looking into a new dash harness aswell. Only way I could confirm the bad wire or connection theory is to pull the entire dash out.

To my knowledge all of this works correct besides the speakers. They go in and out at random times. But these wires aren’t connected to anything. I just have the call flat cut so the bare wire isn’t touching anymore and the speakers work but will go quiet. Then maybe left side, then back, then right, then front, then none. Kinda sparatic

Uneducated question, what exactly is the timer module for. And as I said before there is 11 wires going to the plug but there is 3-4 other wires coming out of the loom the same direction that are melted together.

So I haven’t read about just using 1 drain hole. I am going to try and find a scrap piece of factory return line to get a size so I can order 3 feet or 4 to make my own return lines. If I can find the core t drain fitting for the rear freeze plug hole I will try to use it. It’s going to be a while encore I start putting them on. Just wanted to get everything set for when I install them

The wi shield wipers work perfect and I can tell where anything on the body side of things don’t work. Unless those wire can have something to do with the speakers? Cause they kinda go in a out whenever they want.

No sir. I will try to look up a picture online to add to the post Okay so In this listing on the first picture. If you locate the Obd plug in the middle of the picture and look directly next to it, there is a green plug. From what I can tell looking at that picture and comparing the best I can to my truck. Those are the wire that are melted. BUT. I counted the wires going to the plug. There is 11 wires. Only 2 of the wires going into that plug are melted(not all the way through) there is 3-4 more wires that are completely melted together and end. With no sign of where they are supposed to go to. I cut the wire back to solid coating and spread them all apart for now just in case they are a hazard. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203045872265

It just gives me the insert from url Option. I am on my phone. So I don’t know how to do it

I rolled my dash out and this are the wires that I find. Please someone tell me where they go or what they do. I cannot figure out how to pull the entire dash out so I am going to just try to cut the. Back to fresh and see where I can put them. From what I can tell all the wires on the box to the left in the picture are accounted for. But there is like 6 wires melted together that I don’t know what they are or where they go. I now have no idea how to add a picture

I have a homemade compound setup that has supply lines but does not have return lines as of yet. I was planning on using another oil drain of some sort. Either factory or aftermarket that pops into rear freeze plug port. But, what size is the hose for the factory turbo drain? I’m asking cause I don’t have any extra return hose laying around to measure “ID” So I can just order a bulk piece and cut to length. 5/8, 3/4, 7/8?

So I can unhook the grounds and main harness from the dash? Or undo the harness from the body and pull with the dash?

I got the dash rolled out and starter working in the heater core and the vacuum line. I haven’t taken the dash completely out of the truck though. I cannot figure out what needs to be unhooked or unbolted and how to get the fuse box to let go of the dash. If I can get it pulled completely out I will pull the HVAC box and go through it. I fixed the vacuum line and heater core fixed. The core was popped at the top. Had a weird hole on the topside of it? Small but not a spot that should have a hole. the vacuum line looks like it goes through the firewall. Is raped to the green recirculate vacuum line and the. Just follows the green line and eventually yellow line before meeting the junction block under the center of the dash. Anyone have insight into how to get the fuse box to stay with the truck and get the dash completely out of the truck?

Yessir I bought a 1 wire sensor and used a 1 wire harness. I always thought it was weird they went to a 1 wire. But I swapped to a 6 speed 02 ecm and cruise and oil pressure are fixed. I’ve almost got all the bugs worked out if this thing! Only thing left is the vacuum lines for cab and axle. I messed up and accidentally pushed the vent line into the cab. I felt behind glove box and found where it goes out of the cab but 1 hour in and no prevail to get it poked back out. Test drive today popped the heater core somehow so I gotta pull the days now anyways!

I have the original 01 pcm in it now and I will swap the ecm and see what happens. The oil pressure sensor now stays at 40 with the key on and engine off. And it doesn’t move while running. I bought new sensor with no luck.

Yes, It Burnt up in the fire. I plugged it back in and it had 9 ecm codes that were not there before the fire. And new ecm takes away the codes. I only gave 1998,2000,2002 ecm now. But not 01. It was my only 01 truck. I could always have the ecm flashed with the smarty I have. What are the chances of this working though? I have a 6 and 5 speed 2002 ecm. 1998 5 speed, and 2002, 2000 automatic.

So could I find one of these at the local parts store?

I’ll swap the 01 pcm back onto the truck and see if it makes it work properly. Crossing my fingers! Also does anyone know if the vent for the transfer case vacuum lines is just a 1 way valve? Venting to atmosphere by not sucking air back? Or is it open all the time? The vent melted in the fire.

Ahhhhh would it matter if the trick I used for parts and computers was a full manual window, lock, seat and non cruise truck?

Yes it’s a 2002 cab and chassis 5 speed.

2001 ram 2500. Just replaced wiring harness with that of a 2002 parts trick. Finally got it running but the cruise light stays on form the time the key is turned on to off. I have tried holding the buttons. I have tried tapping then repeatedly. Before I replaced harness(truck caught fire) the cruise would turn in and off anytime I wanted. Clock spring? Wrong pcm? I’m stumped.

I used a 01 pcm and ecm. Replaced both engine fuses And all is good

Okay so I purchased this 2001 6 speed in January. Well first week of March it caught in fire. Don’t know the cause of it. Engine related. I replaced every single sensor with a 2002 parts truck I had. Replaced both ecm and pcm wiring with the ecm and pcm off of that 2002 into my 01 to make sure everything would be happy. So I have a complete 2002 engine bay in my 01 electronics wise. I have a NO BUS on my cluster after the mileage flashes 3-4 times. I have unplugged the firewall plugs and wiped them off. I have unplugged the pcm connectors and wiped them off. I have even gotten another 2002 ecm and plugged it in with same results. I have also tried the 2001 pcm with the same results. What am I missing here? I even put the cluster out of the 02 into my 01 and same results? I did the cluster CHEC and it showed 920-921-999 in that order. And stays on 999 until I turn the key off.

I would guess it is in the switch. I replaced mine with a switch from a 2001 and it kinda fixed it. The switch has 250k miles on it and is very dirty so it gets stuck in the up position and you have to wiggle it but then it will go up and down forward and back now

I ran a bunker from the pink wire to red and light blue wire. The first switch would go up but not down. Second switch went up and down forward and back. 3rd switch went up but not down. Fourth switch inflated and deflated. Any answers?

Thank you for the help! I’m sure I will have more question soon??

The seats are out of a extended cab. Mine is an extended cab. Also how should I Hotwire a motor? Just unplug it and try to give it some juice haha. Both trucks 1998.5 slt laramie extended cab long beds. One is 2wd and auto other is 4x4 and 5 speed SOOOOOOO I figured it out. The parts truck has a red and lt blue wire going into the 26 pin connector under the dash with safety latch. But my truck has every wire except the red and light blue one.. so I’ll need to swap wiring harnesses. Daunting task but I’m going to gut my interior before paint so I will swap wiring harnesses then