Waydin_Stewart

Is there a thread on adjusting valves on these trucks? I'm going to be adjusting mine in a little while if I can find a write up of which valves go TDC and BDC. I haven't really messed with the batteries. I will have to get around to doing that soon. I have been running new vacuum line throughout the whole truck and waiting on the feeler gauges to come and get free time.

I have replaced the batteries very recent. December of last year. I have already convinced o'reileys to warranty two batteries in place of the passenger one. Believing it was the battery. The first warranty it was bad. The second one was to make sure it wasn't the battery. So would this narrow it down to a ground issue or a bad ground connection at the battery?

Is there anyway I test connection to find a bad one? Like test the passenger to drive positive cable on both ends and see if it has current? I don't want to go buy another cable if that wasn't my problem. OR maybe test the ground to see if they are bad? The batteries are good. Got them both same time. Also is there some kind of grease or something I can put on the posts to keep them from corroded?

Also at low RPM right after I shift usually from 2nd to 3rd it is really noticeable it still sounds like it misses bit just got a few hundred RPMs and go away and then it doesn't usually come hack unless I slow down then have to gas it again

I can unhook just the passenger battery and I still have power. When I unhook the drivers batters I don't have power anymore. I didn't purposely spark it I just put the end on and t will spark and crackle as soon as you touch it to be battery. I didn't make it cause a big spark. So I know t has something to do with the connection from the passenger to driver battery or the ground wires. I've cleaned them all and the battery worked again for a little while but it started to this again.

Okay! So I got the connector tube o-rings in and it solved the hard start and exhaust pop...to an extent. At low RPMs it still pops just a tiny bit I'm adjusting the valves Monday or Tuesday maybe that will fix it. BUT! I just discovered only 1 of my batteries is working? All grounds seem fine and the batteries were purchased same day and installed same day. The passenger side will not spark if I just grace the battery post So I know it has to be a ground for that one but I have no clue where to begin troubleshooting form. I tightened all grounds coming from passenger battery down but still didn't spark on contact.

Yeah I read that write-up multiple times before starting to clean my injectors. It was very helpful. But after I got the truck running again I figured I've spent this much money and replaced everything else why not the injectors and tubes aswell.

Camp fuel was just the knockoff on the shelf next to Coleman fuel at Walmart. I'll use some carb spray and blow it onto the tips to clean them. Have you had a thread on here before with an issue like mine?

If its lack of boost I'll have that solved today after the turbo elbow and boost fooler. They are brand new injectors so i would think they would have spray issues haha. I guess i could soak the tips in camp fuel to clean the stuff off and make sure nothing is in the tip.

Build up as in like black on the tip. It was just a little thicker on 2 of the injectors.

I use the oil in the top of the head to lubricate them. The oil is new I changed it maybe 500 miles ago. It is just now starting to turn a very slight tint of black. I took all the injectors out to make sure there wasn't any damage to them and noticed on cylinders I believe it was 3 and 4 or maybe 4 and 5 that there was quite a bit of buildup on the tip. The others didn't have this much buildup. Is this normal?

Chris at DFI will be sending me a new set of O-rings. When he sent the connector tubes they didnt come with new ones so I re-used old ones that were only maybe 1.5 months old if that as I just rebuilt the stock injectors recently and decided to go bigger. He asked me if they had O-rings and I told him I reused the old ones. He just texted and said he would send out a set of o-rings to see if that fixes the problem. Wish me luck!

Okay so I'm in the process of Re-installing the injectors and I pull out connector tube number 6 to find that the oring is busted.Would this cause my issue? So I know I atleast need a new o-ring now. I guess Il pull the injectors out and check them out to see if I can see any damage to them.

If the connector tube had a piece of debris on the end of the connector tube would it cause this problem?

So I should take apart each injector or just reinstall how you stated

Here is the video.

Well its not hard to redo the install. Ill do it tomorrow when I get time. I have the dang tools memorized to do it haha. What your saying make sense as to how it would align itself. Would you like to hear the video if I can attach it and it work right?

My computer has I believe a 1 year warranty on it. The alternator has been changed so if it is causing problems I can get another one on warranty. I tightened down the hold downs first as every video I watched they did/said that. I guess I could undo the hold downs and then the injection lines and then tighten the injection lines first. Would I have to remove the whole injection line to do that or just loosen them? On a side not I'm having hard start issued but that is because its sucking air at fuel return T. I park truck uphill and it takes a while to start. Park it downhill fires right up. It has new banjo washers on the back of the head as I just installed them yesterday for the hard starts to find it was the return T leaking instead. I know its not running right. Its obvious its not by the exhaust pop and shaking. IF I romp it in neutral The truck shakes and the exhaust pops so it is injector relation or atleast injector timing related. Ill also be adjusting the valves as soon as my feeler gauges come in to quite the motor and gains my minuscule mpg back. I posted a similar thread on another forum and got minimal help. You guys are very helpful! I have a video of the truck driving and you can hear the exhaust pop if you would like to listen.

Okay I think I understand what to do! Light a match and burn it! I don't have unlimited funds so my options are limited haha. My local diesel shop charges $300 initial plus $300 an hour. I'm stumped as to what it could be. Chris sent me the first set and it had a rough idle. So he sent another set out.The rough idle went away. I cant afford to send the truck to the shop so I kinda have to figure it out at this point as its my only vehicle.

I don't have the originals anymore. I sent them back as a core already. I need to figure out the exhaust pop and vibration.The vibration could either be a cylinder not firing which would also cause the exhaust noise im guessing. OR the shake in neutral is just what comes with bigger injectors but the shake going don the road could be u joints or unbalanced tires?

I will be getting a gauges soon as well. The vibration started after new injectors were installed. I'm not going for high hp and black smoke I'm going for good MPG, reliability with and without a trailer. Maybe in the furture Ill get compounds and studs and a pump tap programmer but for now I'm just looking for an a-b truck. Not an A-and lets see if we can get it to b super fast.I don't dog this truck. Since the new injectors I've gave it full throttle maybe 5 times? just to see if what I "did" to the injectors helped haha.

I have my own code reader/Scanner that will read and erase codes, monitor live data and everything. The college I went to has a scanner that used to be able to access the system functions until i had to get a new computer for it. It does have a APPS/TPS sensor voltage too low but O'reileys says I'm not allowed to get another one until I prove mine is messed up...I have had 3 bad ones from there in 2 years and then when my computer went out I started with the APPS/TPS to see if that would fix it but I don guess that was bad. . But its a lifetime warranty haha. The one I have now has the adjustable throttle screw rounded over on both sides of adjustment and its got like loctite Red on it? So that sucker ain't moving anywhere.

I told the company that rebuilt the internals of my computer everything about the truck. All the way down to the vin number and 5 speed and 4x4 and SO 235hp and mileage. It is a SO pump and I actually hooked a 245hp computer up to the truck to test to see if my computer was bad and the truck ran weird. It idle rough as heck at first and then smoothed out and it honestly seemed quieter. It seemed to idle faster if that makes sense haha

I have no way to monitor fuel pressure.I would only assume it would be at the preset psi and isn't dropping below 10? I have wire wheeled the grounds on the engine, frame, and quarter panel. I have used electronics part cleaner on almost every connection on the truck at this point. It is a "newer" alternator so I wouldn't think it would put out that much AC noise. When I installed the first set of 7x.009 injectors it sounded like yours but now it doesn't. So is it normal for the truck to shake more with bigger injectors in neutral if I hold it at a certain RPM? If not then I know there is an underlying problem with tuning or install. I read multiple write ups before doing the injectors and this is the 4th time I have messed with injectors in this truck. First 2 times everything was fine afterwards. I have checked the key way 6 times to ensure it is in. Which it is, you can see the key clear as day in the gear slot. If it was the tune in the computer would I be able to put a different tine on it and see if it changed it? I know that smarty can build you a tune file to flash your ecm with. But then I have the problem of not having a smarty.

Hello, I would like to apologize for the long post! Okay so I'll start it off with what I have done to the truck so far. It is a 1998.5 2500 5-Speed 4x4 Cummins. A little under 900 maybe 1000 miles ago I have installed a new VP44, Airdog 100, OEM Cummins connector tubes, 7x.009 100hp injectors, and I also had to have my computer rebuilt because the throttle circuit was shorted out(I may also add that the truck used to prime for 3 seconds and it no longer does, I used to be able to access system function from a scanner and no longer can, The truck sounded ever so slightly different after I installed rebuilt ecm aswell). I have a few more things coming within the next 3 days including banjo washers for the bolt at the back of the head(I may also buy the Fuel Grommets at the return T soon aswell), BD Boost Fooler, and an Adjustable Turbo Elbow. There is also a programmer for sale that I may pick up aswell next week. But anyways now to my problem. I installed the new injection pump and airdog at the same time and then drove the truck for about 2 weeks and it sounded slightly different but ran fine.Then I decided to pull the trigger on some DFI 7x.009s . I installed them and the truck started up, smoke white for about 30-45 seconds and slowly went away and the "Air-Filled" idle started to go away too. The truck still had a rough idle after letting it sit for a while. So I got into contact with Chris and he sent another set out the next day. Boom the rough idle is gone. If I am in neutral and let the RPMs climb and then hold them at a certain spot the truck will shake quite a bit or whenever I accelerate hard the truck shakes quite a bit aswell. But the acceleration could be bad u-joint on front driveshaft maybe? If I give the truck more throttle there is an odd "miss" sound coming from the exhaust(not from the motor that I can hear anyways) The sound reminds me of an old non turbo 7.3. I ordered feeler guages and they will be here Monday and I will be adjusting my valves to see if that helps as they have never been adjust before. I know of two 2002 6-speed dodges that have 100hp and 150hp injectors and they do not sound like mine. Does anyone have an answer of how to fix it? I'm guessing maybe the tune in the computer is off and I just couldn't hear it with the smaller stock injectors or maybe the valves are opening slightly off and it is doing this or something?