Waydin_Stewart

I have another thread about a Dana 80 disc swap. I have the Dana 80 with drums and purchased a Dana 80 disc. What off the donor truck will I need to make the disc work on mine? I'm using the leaf springs off that truck aswell since mine are broke.

I don't know how to fill out a signature/and or show photos. I can take pictures of it. Its very caked with dirt form the front timing cover gasket leaking for years. I would gladly post pictures of the steering to show you that it is the T style and not the y. The truck has a dana 80 rear with a 5 speed. It has certain bolts on certain parts in the motor that I cant really give an example of right now that are different than others with the same year truck.

Yes sir he custom ordered it exactly how he wanted it. Then he saw my love for diesels and passion to work on them and he said he would sell me his.

98.5 24v haha

Well here the weird part about you saying it's upgraded. I bought this truck off my father. I asked him about it and the only thing he ever did to the front end was replace 2 toe rods and 2 ball joints. He never changed anything from the way it came factory.

Who would you recommend? Can someone expalin the stock steering on my truck? Stock the drag link should go form the pitman arm over to the passenger tire and then the driver tie rod should hook onto the drag link right? On my truck(which was completely stock until I got ahold of it) has the two tires tied together on the same rod and then the drag link connecting onto it?

It would be a towing cam if I get one at all. Thanks for the tip!

Alright thanks! I will start ordering parts and getting my hands dirty. Does anyone know what the rod end that connects to be pitman arm is called? When I have someone turn the steering wheel the ball joint will move a little before catching and turning the tire? I'm getting a DOR track bar and DOR steering brace. My buddy upgraded to a dual stabilizer and is giving me his single. So I will have amazing steering again:)

Okay so I remove one bolt, hand tighten the stud, add the nut and then what should I initially torque it down to before I move onto the next one?

Those are the ones marketed for higher lift cams. I will most likely get a bigger cam after I do compounds so might aswell prepare now. Okay I will be getting DFI pushrods and DAP 104# valve springs. Alongside ARP 425 studs. I don't know if there is a topic about this. Can I just do one stud at a time instead of taking the head off to replace the gasket?

Did you purchase the 104# springs for high lift cams? I'm sure I will eventually swap cams as this truck isn't going anywhere besides my driveway until it isn't safe to drive anymore. I'm asking cause I will purchase those if they will work with my stock can aswell

I'm just looking for an affordable set of springs that won't put un-needed stress on my cam. I'm getting pushrods from DFI as he is local to me.

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to the posting. If they are a legit company and someone can verify the springs wont break on me and are what they are listed as I will purchase them. Any money I can save I will as I've got a list of 2400+ dollars worth of parts waiting to be purchased.

I have a few extra parts laying around after upgrading my truck. I was wanting to know how much the stuff would be worth. Some of the parts are 5 speed flywheel, Hx35, 4" downpipe for Hx35, Stock lift pump, MK-10 aftermarket filter, Manifold not cracked(Missing 2 studs as I used them for new manifold), Intake horn, Intake plate, Connector tubes, BD boost fooler. I think there is maybe 1 or so more parts I'm forgetting that I have replaced.

Okay I checked the IAT and ECT at first startup and they were 75* and 74.8* respectively. They went up steadily as I drove into town and at full operating temperature they read normal and as mopar stated the IAT was about +40* above outside. These read normal so what would be my next step in troubleshooting? If I purchased a 5" turbo back exhaust and that smarty do you think it would relieve some back pressure and keep the computer form changing tones while driving? I want the exhaust for lower EGTs and they sound pretty darn good IMO but I just want the truck to stop sounding like an IDI 7.3 powerstroke.

This piece has nuts on both sides holding it down on the injection pump body housing. It is about 1/2" tall and the delivery valve holder goes into it(I believe). Also if I go through a shop they will upcharge it 3x.

I am fixing to purchase a 1994 cummins 4x4 5-speed. On the top of the P7100/P-Pump there is the injector lines and delivery valves. What is the metal piece that attaches to the injection pump where the delivery valve goes into the pump? It is cracked and I want to know if it can just purchase 6 of these top pieces and just replace them? It is the front injection line that I noticed leaking through the crack.

Yeah I adjusted them to .10 and .20 and followed the write up thoroughly before during and after adjustment.

I have been very busy lately and have not been able to check the IAT and ECT as stated above. I will hopefully check those today or tomorrow. I will check the manifold bolts to see if that would be the problem. But wouldnt that cause the popping sound to come from the engine and not the exhaust tip?

I have a scan tool that reads live data. The truck has been sitting for about 3 hours.Is that long enough to go hook it up and see if the sensors are reading correctly? The camshaft position sensor was starting to go bad before I put the new vp44 on it so I wouldn't be surprised if more sensors start to go out.

Okay so you said your truck does it too with lower EGTs. The truck does it more often after it has set for a little while. If I let it idle for a minute or so I can start to hear this completely random "chug" I guess is how I would say it. Its like the exhaust pop problem I'm having but it does it while idling. There is no pattern to it at all. I have also noticed that the entire motor will change tone while driving down the road. IT didn't start doing any of this until after I had this computer replaced. I'm going to purchase a smarty after I sell these subwoofers. A guy is coming to pick them up sometime next week. I will reflash the ecm with it and see if the exhaust pop stops and the motor quits changing tone randomly and also stops chugging at idle randomly. The problems started to arise after this dang computer got rebuilt. The way the truck cylces before started, the way the truck sounds entirely, the way it jerks randomly, the exhaust pop. All these symptoms were there before the bigger injectors but after the new computer. The injectors made them much more noticeable. TFaoro does your truck seems to pop/chug/whatever you want to call it under acceleration after bigger injectors. I am disgusted every time i shift cause it starts to make the sound and it is one of the worst sounds I have heard. Its so noticeable! I don't like it at all haha.

I just had foot surgery so Ill be down for a little while. After I'm healed up Ill take them out and have them tested by someone. Our local diesel shop charges and hours work time to test. Which is $300! But you gotta do what you gotta do I guess. I'm going to be purchasing a smarty and putting it on level 3 for advanced timing with boost fooling. I don't hot rod this truck so I think 3 is just fine for me. Ill get back to you with more info.

Anyone?

Okay I have discovered another problem that might be the cause of the exhaust pop! I was going to adjust the valve in a little bit(about an hour) after the truck fully cools off and I read this writer up a few times through. I noticed this about a week ago it did it once and never did it again. Now if I start it up and then throttle it fully it will smoke black and then white at the end(the motor seems to "jerk" whenever the white smoke comes out). I know it is unburnt fuel so it has to do with the injectors but how would I go about diagnosing what exactly is happening! I am uploading a video right now to YouTube and I will share after it uploads. I still haven't messed with the batteries haha. I just get busy and forget since it starts up just fine during this warm weather(besides the white smoke in the video). Ill get to it eventually! Hopefully I can figure out this exhaust sound, Fix my exhaust leak, Re-Run my vacuum lines that I haven't redone yet, get new u-joints for front and rear drive-line. And then I can figure out which wire is bad and replace it on that passenger battery. Thank you everyone for helping!

THANK YOU