Waydin_Stewart
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Everything posted by Waydin_Stewart
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I am looking at this diagram. At Oreileys their diagram shows a c203 and c303 plug in between the seat plug and circuit breaker. This diagram shows just the breaker and then the switches. It’s been a while since I had to understand these diagrams haha but I’m gunna try to figure this out. I have the 56020694AC wiring harness going to my seats. I guess if it comes down too it I can try to take the harness out of the parts trick and put in mine. It has no front clip or any of that as it was wrecked. Or I can try to take the seats and put them back in that truck and try to give them power some how -
I am getting power to both leads of the breaker. And I have power to 1 wire on my 10 pin plug under my drivers seat. It’s the pink wire I have power too. Like I said it’s the same exact plug to both seats and the same exact wire colors aswell. Just one has a splitter going to the drivers side power stuff after the 10 pin plug.
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I have a 1998.5 4x4. I recently purchased a 1998.5 2x4 parts truck. It has power leather seats in it and the same exact plug under the drivers seat as mine. I installed the seats in my truck and installed the power seats breaker from the parts truck. And nothing. No click, no noise, no power to them. Is there another plug under the dash or another fuse I haven’t found that needs to be put/plugged in to make them work.
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If I bore it .20 over and use a 6.7 crank it will make it a 6.151L but compression will be like 21:1. So ide have to have the piston shaved or custom piston.
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I have been tossing and turning, surfing every post I can find that seemed related for 2 weeks trying to get answers. I am on the verge of rebuilding my 1998.5 as soon as I buy a newer rig to daily from now on and have this one as a toy. I’ve read more than one post about 6.7 crank in a 12v. And ppump on a 6.7. I was looking at stock bore or maybe 20 over(is anything bigger safe?) with a 6.7l crank and it seems I need shaved pistons to make stock compression. Are the crank gears interchangeable? When I rebuild it I’m going to try my hardest to get the crank polished and balanced, pistons coated, rods polished and hardened. And maybe my head milled off if the budget will allow. Any insight is appreciated!
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I don’t have that issue, but what type of bulb do you have, my headlights are led and they do/did it
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Figured it out, but can’t figure out how to delete this post aswell as a few others I have.
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Alright, a lot has happened with the truck since I last commented on here. My truck is a 1998.5 slt Laramie(I have the pull out headlight switch), everything I read online says it comes with foglight wiring. I bought a set of 4 led pods, 2 fog light relays(as my PDC had the slots and 12v power running to them, I used a test light to check for power) I installed the 10amp fuse for the drl lamp spot as it was missing for some reason but was also hot. My trick has a plug in the center underneath the radiator. I went to the salvage yard and found a truck with some foglight wiring but it was 2 prong plug, and I found a truck with a 3 prong plug like mine but just the plug as the wires had been cut. I know I can just run them to the battery and then to a switch, but I want it to be as factory as possible. The 1998 foglight/airbag switch is discontinued so I was going to try and wire my low beam power to the relay which would then send power to the foglights when low beams are on. So my question is, is this 3 prong plug correct or am i SOL? And if it is correct what other fuses/relays do I need to install in PDC or fuse label in cab to send power to fog lights while low beams are on. I know I would have to splice atleast 1 set of wires.
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About a year ago, around this time actually, I ordered a Cummins chrome and black C for my grille. I had the option for an aluminum polished silver that was a bolt in version for $57 or so. So I decided to get the $30ish dollar one figuring I wouldn’t need another one. Well I swapped grilles and searched far and wide for about 2 hours straight for this polished aluminum badge. I can only find 1 black anodized led emblem on eBay that doesn’t fit good. I am wanting the original polished aluminum with black inlay chrome badge I wanted last year. I provided these pictures for reference.
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Hello! I have purchased the normal chrome and black Cummins C grill emblem stick in before. Whenever I purchased it I figured I wouldn’t ever replace it again so I didn’t get the metal, bolt on emblem. Does anyone have a link to where I can purchase the bolt on style Cummins grill badge? I am really looking for a reusable badge now since I wasted my money once already.
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Soooo I need the paid version of microsoft Excel to run this?
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I was just going to run it to about middle of oil pan below motor. Just want to know best hose to use that wont break the bank
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Ive got leftover air dog fuel line still i believe.
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They said turbo drain line. If fuel hose works im all for it.
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5 foot! im starting to think I dont need this tappet cover. Holy cow. If i get hydraulic hose wouldnt i have to get it 1 size bigger as it has thicker walls?
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shows here on cpp its $36 per foot for high temp silicone drain hose. Pricey but if it has to have it. How many feet would i need?
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I wasn't even gonna attempt to do it without taking it off. I have taken a vp44 on an off this truck 7 times so i think i have the tools needed haha. It was for troubleshooting and warranty work around. In the end i got a new pump that didnt have rust and pits all over it.
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I was gonna get some 3/4 heater hose and run the vent below the motor from the tappet cover. My truck has a front vent already and it already has the vent mod to run the hoe lower on the motor instead of right on the motor. The factory installed it before my parents took delivery way back. I made a bio about all the weird things on my truck that don't line up with others the same year model. What type of hose and what size should i use to vent the tappet cover?
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Okay thank you! I will go get one at the parts store today.
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I thought Ben said his breathers didnt leave oil on his valve cover?
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I don't have to vent that much. The truck has 0 blowby at an idle and ide guess very little on WOT runs. The oil cap only spins in a circle cause the engine rattles. I don't beat on this truck. Just figured the more the merrier.I might have to look into those breathers. Im not a fabricator by any means and cutting holes is my enemy. I am an oem guy with a little touch of love on top to suit my needs.
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Is it possible to have an oil cap with a vent for the valve cover? I am fixing to install a 12v tappet cover and want to vent the valve cover aswell, so ill have 3 vents. Is it possible to vent the valve cover without drilling and welding bungs and doing what i said and making or buying an oil cap with baffles and filter on it?
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he used the stock bolts and this gasket as "masking" cause i can pull the gasket off and there is a silver ring where the gasket set. and the sides of the gasket are a dull black and the top is shiny black.
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I just always get gaskets and really all my parts from oreileys cause of the lifetime warranty.
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My version of cheap is $5 not 25 haha. but okay ill get a new gasket at the parts store.
