Timburrr

Thanks everyone. I can't find the actual manufacturer, I think they are kinda set up to just go through retailers and I get the impression they do not want to be bothered. I'm going to try to find the box they came in because I think it said they are not repairable. I'll look into it though. Maybe I can get some glass cut. I went into the glass shop and they didn't say they could but maybe i'll make a template and try. Not sure what to do about the convex though, he said they can't get that. Thats what I'm worried about with the CH1321315 one. The guy at the parts store said its for a 2010 but will work with mine, and I'm not convinced.

So I was backing my trailer into a super tight spot on a job and got distracted and kissed my mirror on a fence post breaking the mirror glass. Right now I have on after market mirrors (EFXMRDOD98HET) as you can see here: https://www.carid.com/replace/pro-efx-driver-and-passenger-side-power-towing-mirrors-mpn-efxmrdod98het.html I haven't been able to source replacement glass for them, and I am also unable to source just the passenger side mirror with the options I have on (heated, power, with the clearance light). So right now my options are by another full set for $475 or by a different OEM replacement for $370. The guy at the parts store said its for a 2010 but it will fit my 1999. I am skeptical that it will both mount up fine and also have the controls and wiring harness match up. The part number he gave me is CH1321315. Does anybody know if these will mount up and work properly? I am not super happy with the quality of the ProEFX mirrors (the drivers side doesn't sit at 90* when its folded up int he tow position) and the range of adjustability is poor. I also don't like that if I have another misshap then I am buying a full set again. I believe you can buy replacement glass for the OEM replacement. The convex mirror is different which will drive me crazy having a different passenger side mirror than the drivers side mirror but one day I will rectify that. Any advice is, as always, hugely hugely appreciated. Thanks!

Just put my snow tires on today and the lines don't show any signs of rubbing. The old lines felt very soft and flimsy so I'm guessing due to age they got soft and weren't stiff enough to stay away from the tire during a full lock turn. Also who knows, maybe people in the past let the calipers dangle off them or something. Something to be aware of I suppose though. Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for the replies! I got lucky and was able to get them off without damaging the hard lines. Lots of penetrating oil. My cheapo flare nut wrench wasnt up to the task so I had to go back and get my middle of the line set. I think young to invest in a good set of snapon/proto/gray etc. Using cheap line wrenches is a fools errand. I took a good look and I think maybe the soft lines were just super old and got soft so they weren't springy enough to keep clear of they tires during a full lock turn. The new ones are much stiffer. I know the 3rd Gen rims have a different offset which puts the slightly tighter to the centreline of the truck but I checked on my stock rims/tires which I just took off for the winter recently and they showed rubbing too so I don't think that's the problem. Tires on now are 265/70r17 and other tires are 255/85/r16 if I recall. Something I will keep a closer eye on from now on that's for certain.

Had a fun drive into work this evening. I have about an hour commute and was almost at work and my pedal went squishy. I pulled over and found that my front drivers side soft brake line had worn through and burst. It looks like it is rubbing on the tire when at full lock turn. I have 3rd gen rims and 265/70/r17 wheels on (and tame tires too, not large knobbies). Does anyone know why this would have been happening? It looks like its happening on the passenger side too, but not as bad. I'm not looking forward to trying to fix this, but I'm also concerned that this would have happened and how to prevent it from happening again. Being new years eve, it was tough but my wife just barely made it into the auto parts store before they closed and she is driving me down the parts and some tools and I will try to get it done tomorrow morning after work. I got my truck towed here to work so hopefully it doesn't rain! Does anyone have any advice on changing out the soft line? Everything looks pretty rusty unfortunately, and I'm concerned about things not going my way! I just read a post where Michael mentioned 'rust treatment'. Asking about rust prevention was on my list of to-do's so next time I get a chance I'll give it a good spray down with fluidfilm or something of the like. As always, many thanks for any input! Happy New Year (hopefully yours starts out better than mine)!

Thanks for the input. I ordered the Vulcan set. It was on sale. Just checked and it does have spring clamps so that's very helpful to have the warning not to overtighten. Sometimes I tend to do the 200 lb gorilla tightening. Nothings tighter than stripped, am I right?

Thanks a lot. I think it's a good idea. Get it all done at once and tighten the finances elsewhere. I was only at like 22lbs boost. Probably a combination of bad boot and clamp not tight enough. Not boosting as high or as fast as I should so it's leaking somewhere. I hope the turbo didn't over spin. I couldn't feel any play and there wasn't any oil so I'm thinking I'm safe.

I was towing the 5th wheel yesterday to get it set up for the wife and kids to camp in, and while I was going up a hill I lost turbo boost and my EGTs went up. Pulled over and discovered that the first intercooler boot had blown off of the intermediate pipe. My guess was that the clamp wasn't tight enough or had backed off, so I put it back on, went back at it and half hour later it came off again! Hasn't come on since, but it did seem like it was a little stretched out. I'm thinking I should replace the boots. All I've found is Vulcan or factory boots. Which should I go with? I have a BD Modified HX35, which I believe is essentially an HX35/45 Hybrid. The one thing is with the larger compressor housing the turbo outlet elbow and the intercooler piping don't line up bang on, they are about a quarter inch to half an inch out if I remember right so it puts a small amount of pressure on the boots. I don't think I can really do much about this. Should I just buy the boots? Run keep this one on and watch it? Vulcan? Mopar? I'm surprised I was unable to find OEM style aftermarket ones for a good price. Money is tight right. Well always, but especially now haha. Thanks!

I like having my exhaust backpressure gauge, but right now its just a loose gauge by my gear shifter. My cheap-o glowshift pyrometer gauge crapped out (I still have the Edge pyrometer which is the one I monitor) so I'm thinking of replacing the pyrometer gauge in my A-pillar pod with an exhaust back pressure gauge to clean things up and make it easier to see. From what I can tell, the only difference between a mechanical air pressure, boost, or exhaust pressure gauge from Autometer ore Isspro is the letters on the face of the gauge and the exhaust back pressure gauge comes with a length of copper tubing (which I don't need because I have a stainless part that came with my exhaust brake). Does anybody have any input on this? I'd like to do a bunch of things in one go to save time (and the new cd player I am getting has a bluetooth mike that I will have to run down the A-Pillar). I might also try to do my headliner if I can find the material and what glue to use. Thanks!

I've been meaning to do this soon. Thanks for the link to the article. Do you guys ever use a descaling flush detergent or just run the fresh water through?

Thanks everyone for the help. Haven't decided which deck to buy but I will do some reading and get on it. It will be nice to have all my speakers working and have the bluetooth phone connection.

Thanks to everyone for the input. I'm probably going to ditch the amps and keep it simple since it has an aftermarket deck that are designed to power speakers half decent on their own. I'll just buy whatever cheaper to mid range 6x9 and 5.25" speakers I can get my hands on and throw them in one day. I definitely plan on putting in a newer deck in the future with bluetooth. Here in BC first time offence for using phone while driving is $543! Penalty for subsequent offences goes up from there and if you get two or more tickets in a three year period you get a risk premium added to your insurance. I use my headset the odd time to talk to the wife while I'm driving to work and bluetooth would be a lot easier. Thanks again!

I need to replace the speakers in my truck (99 quad cab) and just finished reading the material available on here. I don't know much about car audio, but I've done a bit of reading tonight and I am looking for some help on ordering new speakers. My truck must have (or at some point) had the infinity system. It has an aftermarket Kenwood CD deck and from when I put my mirrors on, I could see that the speakers on the back had that crescent shaped amplifier, which I understand is evidence of the infinity system. Are there any specific speakers that fit nicely and aren't super expensive? My understanding is 6x9s in the front and 5 1/4s in the back. Should I keep the infinity amp or bypass it? I read that the rear speakers are powered and wired to the amp but who knows whats actually connected to what right now. I know my front and rear drivers side speakers aren't working. I've read some people have done 6 1/2's in the front because they said you can get better value (sound quality to price) than in 6x9s but had to make a custom mount for them (I think I'd rather go simpler) I also read somewhere through google that people had ended up with 6x9s that were too deep and interfered with the window operation. Any guidance would be much appreciated. While we're on the audio topic, I would like to one day get a deck with blue-tooth so I can put music on my phone and play that, and also do handsfree talking. I'm wondering if our trucks are too loud for the handsfree talking to work well? I know when I have used my headphones or speaker phones people thought I was calling them from a tractor. Thanks!

Interesting. Thanks for the information. Hopefully it tests fine but I would consider an upgraded alternator if I can find the funds. If I remember right the key is to disconnect any added on electronics to get a true reading. I'll find the write up and check it out. Thanks again Michael.

That's a great idea, I'm planning on doing it as soon as I have time. If there is excessive ac noise, are there brands that are good replacements or do you guys like to find a good rebuilder? The shop said a rebuilder might be better but it will still be Chinese components going in.

So a little update. Truck was labouring to start so took it in to the auto electrical shop to test the batteries and the drivers side was bad and the other was fairly bad. Put in new batteries and the exhaust brake has functioned 100% normal without any other interventions. I'm not an electrimagician but my only guess is a dead cell was causing some issues? Voltage always showed as fine so I don't know. Anyhow it seems good now.

Thanks for the replies. It does have the controller under the dash that engages the break via the idle verification (thanks Michael I was mistaken and thought it was the APPS ). I did have it set pretty sensitive so my plan is to turn it up a hair (it is a very fine adjuster so I'm guessing a good bump could possibly back it off enough). I'm just worried it could be another problem like funny signals from AC noise (maybe an early warning sign). I have read AC noise can cause all sorts of funny behaviour. My understanding is when the truck senses the APPS has been engaged it bumps the truck out of idle mode and starts to control the motor via sensor inputs? So there is a chance I might need to recalibrate the voltage of the APPS?

A little while ago my exhaust brake (BD remote mount) started to work intermittently. It seems that when I first turn my truck on, if I flip the switch at idle it works normally, but after driving around for half hour or so, at an idle the exhaust brake will only engage sometimes. It also seems like if I'm driving and coming to a stop the exhaust brake will engage, then as the RPMs get close to an idle, it will cut out. If I down shift and the RPS go up again, it will engage again, then cut out as I get close to an idle. It didn't do this before. I can hear the switch under the dash click as it tells the brake to go off or on, so I know its not the physical workings of the brake (spool valve or anything like that). Sometimes even after driving for a half hour or an hour it still works normally and sometimes at an idle it will go off and on. My hunch is the APPS, but I'm not sure what would suddenly make it go out of whack. There's always a chance some hard bumps put the brake switch out of calibration because I had it set to disengage the brake with very little APPS signal. I found this article LINK here on the forums which is super informative (Thanks Michael!), but I don't understand what causes the APPS to need calibration. Should I go straight to calibrating the APPS or does it sound like it could be something else or something simpler? I admit I haven't checked for AC noise from the alternator which I plan on doing as soon as I have time (not sure when that will be!). I should also mention ever since I got the truck (3 or so years ago) the cruise control is wonky and it will slowly accelerate to higher and higher speeds until I have to shut it off which I assume could be related. When I'm looking at my Edge Insight CTS2 I notice as I'm decelerating in gear it shows the APPS as being a steady 0% but when I'm at an idle it spends most of the time at 0 but blips up to 5-8% momentarily. The refresh rate on the Edge isn't great, but that's what I'm seeing. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help!

I've done lots of driving around with and without the trailer, so far everything is good. I tried using the laser thermometer on the fuse with the truck in reverse and there wasn't a noticeable increase in the temperature so I'm HOPING it was a one off issue like my kid jamming something in the plug or filling it up with water, or possibly when I plugged into my friend's trailer there was an intermittant short that popped it right away. I'm going to keep my eye on it and post if there are any updates. Thanks for the help!

I wish I could remember. I'm going to try to find the receipt or something to see because I don't think it's stamped on the lights. I'll check when I get home. Thanks again.

Will do. So far no problems. I was also thinking about hooking up to my trailer, putting the transfer case in neutral and put the truck in reverse for a bit and check the fuse with s laser thermometer periodically to see if it gets hot. Does this sound reasonable? My thermometer is a cheapo so I don't know how well it will work but I was thinking it would give me an idea if the backup lights are too much of a load.

I'll check my trailer out and see if I can find any shorts. Hopefully it won't be on my truck side because that will mean dropping my fuel tank again and that will make me pretty angry. Haha. Truck was not connected to trailer, and it was about a month or so ago that I put the battery on. I have driven the trailer frequently since then, it was just one of the only recent changes I could think of. So on Thursday I used my trailer, everything was fine, I backed the trailer into my driveway and disconnected with everything being fine. Last night I hooked up to my friend's trailer and I had my headlights on when I plugged into his trailer and noticed the running lights didn't come on, so there wasn't a flicker and the fuse popped or anything like that. I'm wondering if it happened when a trailer wasn't hooked up. I replaced the fuse and his trailer worked just fine for me. Got home and hooked up to mine and everything works just fine. I'll be driving it around in a couple hours and see how things go. Could it have been my son possibly messing around with my 7pin plug and shorting something out? Could it be the reverse lights draw too much and blow the breaker when I have it in reverse? This is my biggest worry because sometimes it takes me a while to back my trailer up my driveway and position it where I want it. I'm trying to remember if the reverse was working when the fuse was blown. I know the 12v power, brake controller and running lights were all out. All I had was signal and brake lights that I remember.

Today I went to borrow my friends car hauler to rescue my broken down commuter car and only the brake lights and turn signals would work on the trailer. I tried my second 7 pin connector for the 5th wheel in the box and it was the same thing, so I figured the problem is upstream of the 7pin connectors. Did a bit of reading and found the big square 40a fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay and sure enough she was toast. Stole the 40a from the fuel heater until the parts store opens in the morning and everything was working again. I'm looking for some suggestions why this could have happened? I My guess is that it was one of the following things: 1) 19 year old truck and maybe just time for it to go? 2) My 3 year old son likes playing with water guns and could have squirted a bunch of water in the 7 pin connector and shorted something. 3) I have LED reverse lights on my dump trailer and maybe I was in reverse long enough for it to cook the fuse 4) maybe somewhere there is a corroded wire that is creating a lot of resistance If the fuse pops again, where should I look first? After replacing the fuse I drove around with my friends trailer and it was fine. When I got home I hooked up to my dump trailer since I will be working tomorrow and everything worked fine with the new fuse, so I don't think there is a short somewhere since the fuse didn't pop. The only relevant information I can think of is I recently replaced the battery on the dump trailer with a larger capacity deep cycle battery, but I don't see how that would matter. I've had the LED reverse lights on the trailer since I rewired it 1.5 years ago. I don't remember the numbers on them but they aren't a high power light. Maybe if I blow a fuse again I can run a relay with the main power source coming from the dump trailer battery instead of powering straight from the trailer wiring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Everything seems pretty good. I got down to just below 1/8th of a tank and the fuel pressure didn't seem to stumble but I caved in and filled up. I didn't end up drilling holes in the basket. I figured if I had issues I could always drop the tank again and add the holes (I'm getting good at dropping the tank ). I'm in the high 16.x to low 17.x psi at idle. It drops more than I'd like it to at WOT (to 13 or so) but in the not too distant future I'll be putting in 1/2" line all the way to the VP and probably bypassing the stock filter. If I do I'll look into adding a water sensor to the water separator/prefilter at the lift pump. I looked at doing the straight up draw straw but was concerned about the quarter tank issues I've read about. If I remember right you said yours works pretty good but you made sure its exactly the height it needs to be and not a hair more or a hair less? Yeah , the dangly lines scared me away from it. Plus the idea of cutting a hole in the bottom of my tank that could (but shouldn't and probably wouldn't) develop a leak.

That was part of the fitting I made. I wasn't sure how strong the plastic welding would turn out so I made a sort of support stand out of 2" pipe to a double female which the original bracket slipped nicely inside. I'm very uneducated with plastics but I should have known the original pump mount bracket was ABS. Not my forte.