martinique78

New update, I disconnected the pump tap wire and now the quadzilla works perfectly fine. Reconnect the pump tap and it flakes out again as soon as i hit pump tap fueling point. Isn't there a resistor that's known to go bad I can replace?

Hmm ok. I got it to work again for a bit then it just drops out again and I’m back to stock. If I unplug the box and plug it back in it usually comes back for a bit. One time it was ok for a 10 min drive but after I shut it off and started it back up it was dead again.

I have an adrenaline iQuad in my truck. One day it was working fine and then while my truck was idling I heard a pop in the combustion and I lost all communication with the Quadzilla. I unplugged the main connector and plugged it back in and it started working again for a few hours then it popped again and did the same thing. I got home and was sitting on the porch looking something up on my phone and noticed i was still connected to the iQuad wifi even though the truck was off and so was the ignition. The last couple days I've been fooling around with the module and it only seems to want to connect when I unplug the main connector and plug it back in however it only seems to get through half the initialization process before it craps out again. Any help on where to go next with this is appreciated. I was looking to maybe get a replacement main connector but I don't want to if the unit is fried.

Trans is pretty much stock. All new bands and clutches before winter. When it doesn't shift it's like i hit engine speed limit before it can shift.

My 47RE wont shift if my Quadzilla tuner is on anything other than the stock setting at WOT from a dead stop. If I let off just a bit it will shift. I know its not slipping, almost feels like torque management de-rating the engine till i let off. Any help is appreciated.

Ok, i'll give it a try this afternoon and see what it does. Thanks!

It's 65 psi at idle in neutral. So you're saying i need to let some slack in the TV?

Hello all, This has been going on for quite some time now. It's not too often that it bothers me but it's something I want to address come spring. Whenever I take off from a stop hard and i mash the skinny pedal to the floor the truck takes off but i hit the rev limiter and the trans wont shift out of first gear till i back off the throttle. It shifts great when I take off normal and if I mash it in any other gear its fine. I've had the bands and clutch packs replaced and they are adjusted properly. The pressure is turned up to 65 psi on the valve body. The TV cable has been set correctly. Is it possible I need to replace the solenoids inside the trans? The engine is pretty much stock except for my Quadzilla.

Holy crap yes it’s smoother, night and day difference driving now. Pretty sure I’ll get better fuel economy as well.

Well I dropped the timing to 15. That combined with installing the jumper inside the box needed for setting the map sensor for a 2002 fixed everything. My map was reading 13 psi at idle. I’m guessing I was overfueling and it was causing a pulsing effect.

uuum, I'm not sure. The box didn't come off a 01...That I know for sure. I had to buy the flat plug adapter for it cause it had the round one on it when I bought it. Well now that i found the Adrenaline mix and match page http://quadzillapower.com/after-market-adrenaline/ I can see what my problem is. The box was on a 99 and mine is a 2001...sooooo no jumper in place. Guess I know what i'm doing tonight lol. Question, would that have affected my performance or is that just for the gauge display?

I'm just wondering if it really is my MAP sensor or not. I had an older version flashed on there when I first completed the swap back in the spring and it was doing it then as well. Have never seen lower than 12-13 psi on my quad display.

I'd have to look again but somewhere around 1100-1500

I flashed the box about two months ago. I believe with the release before the most current one. ADRV27beta is the file i have from when i flashed it.

at idle i'm at 12-13 psi

Here is the tune i'm running Kevin Daily.json

It goes away if I hit the o/d off button. This is a Fummins swap into a 2004 Excursion. I’m using the 47RE trans and the Dodge PCM to control it. The truck has 4.30 gears in it which I think is the reason it shifts into 4th so soon. I plan to swap them out to 3.73 when I get the extra money...have to do both front and rear. Thinking the gearing might be the problem but figured I’d check here first. It’s almost like I’m feeling the combustion cycles of the engine. Once I accelerate to a higher rpm and speed it goes away. At 70mph I’m turning about 25-2600 rpm.

If i drive with my Quad set to stock I don't notice it. Once i'm on level 3 and higher is get progressively worse with each jump up in level. Sometimes its enough to make the trans downshift and upshift over and over till i get out of that area it's bucking. Engine is completely stock and I'm running the daily tune created by the calibration creator tool on this site. Trans was just rebuilt, pump pressure was turned up to 65 PSI. Stock converter. Issue was happening before trans was rebuilt also. Trans was rebuilt due to forward band failure.

Where is this setting? Mine has been offset since day one of installing it. I bought it used from a friend so maybe that't my problem and not a bad MAP sensor.

So now that it's getting cold here I turned on the high idle so when I remote start my truck it will warm up faster this winter. I have it set for 30 second delay however it never kicks on. I know the temps have been down low enough to trigger it but it just wont kick on. I had it work once when I first turned it on and now it hasn't turned on again. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks! Lots of reading and knowing that the 2003 and newer dodges came with the same transfer case NP271/273. NP271 being the manual shift and the NP273 being the electric shift. Only thing different was the input spline count on the transfer case.

That's what I was thinking too, it doesn't really bother me that the RPM's are that high. I just know I could get better fuel mileage if I brought the gearing down. Yeah I did it all myself. Destroked mounts, switched the input shaft on my Ford transfer case to the dodge input shaft and mated up perfectly to the 47RE. No change in drive shaft length. Used the V10 radiator and the intercooler from a 7.3. Once I sold off the rest of the parts from the donor truck and my old V10 setup i actually made money on the conversion. Only took me a week and a half to do the swap. However about of month of prep and lining up the parts I needed. Best decision i've made for that truck. I was only getting 9.5 mpg with the V10 and now i'm close to 19 mpg if I keep my foot out of it but it's hard to do when it runs and sounds so good.

So i have been driving my Fummins Excursion for a few weeks now with no real issues. However on the freeway i'm turning some pretty high RPM's at 70-80. Like around 2700 rpm. At first I thought I wasn't getting lockup but I installed the lockout switch and an LED to show when the PCM was commanding lockup. all was working properly even without using the switch. So my next though was to check the door tag for the axel ratio...4.30!!!!!! holy crap that explains it. Now I know why from a dead stop that thing feels like it could rip the rear end right out from under it. What would be a good ratio to switch to? I have the 2001 24V and the 47RE trans. I'm currently running 315/75/16 tires but I plan to lift the truck and run 36's on it in the future. Is it even worth changing the gears if i'm gonna be turning larger tires soon or is that ratio still too big for even that setup?

I seen this post a while back and I wanted to correct you on this. The wait to start light is actually an indicator for the pre-heating of the intake air heaters during cold starts. Ford has a similar light and its for the pre heating of the glow plugs. GM has an instant start system (which i use to calibrate for GM) and an intake air heater. The wait to start has nothing to do with the ECM starting up. I dont have a wait to start light on my Fummins swap and i go right from off to crank without waiting. I'm giving this knowledge from 15 years of diesel cold start calibration experience. We even tried to supply Cummins with our grid heater for some time but they are the if it's not broke dont fix it kind of company lol.

Sure! Ford has many points on the vehicle to pull vehicle speed from. Ford uses a tone wheel on the rear diff to run the speedo, cruise control, and ABS. I found the easiest point for me to grab a VSS was at the cruise control module. It's a Grey/Black wire. I simple tapped a wire onto that wire and tied it into the White/Orange Pin 27 on the C1 plug on the PCM. Once that was done I has VSS on my iQuad display. Luckily my gearing and tire size allowed it to be dead on as far as speed. It's actually more accurate to my GPS by 2 mph compared to my dash speedo.