TheGreatWhite

That ground you found to be bad, it's in the main wiring harness isnt it? I've got a spare 01 harness laying around, I might throw that and another map in and see what happens. Must be a bad MAP on my end...

Yep sounds like me... I've been wondering if it was the MAP or not. At idle it does read like 15psi or something stupid. I've been noticing a weird thing while I'm driving, doesn't always happen, but it's like my truck will lose power for a split second and then it'll come back like either my quad lost power or maybe my map shoots up.....

May I ask what kinda mileage you're getting? Mine does almost the same thing, but in the sense of I can drive it to work and it'll run beautifully and have lots of power, but on my way home it's doggy and low on power. I'm getting 14.2 no matter what tube or fuel additives.

I thought there was someone in here, can't remember who it was, had a 2wd I believe that had that exact setup.

I'm planning on selling my .009s to my dad and getting a bigger set, where that be .010 or .015s I'm not sure. Whichever will give me more room to grow in the future and won't be terrible on the street.

Ok so I'm exploring options for s472 sizing, as I've found one that's a 72/96 1.15 non gated housing. If I pair it up with a stock hx35 with 125 or 150hp injectors, would that be a good combo for towing, but more daily-ing than towing. I'm planning on starting a welding business and my welding rig doesn't have a ball so I can go get big sections of pipe or steel, and I've always wanted to put compounds on my truck.

.

No absolutely not! The power is great compared to my 01! It just kinda blindsided me cause I wasn't aware of how different the C&C's were compared to a normal 3500. It's got a crappy tune on it so I am getting EFI live soon but I need to find the serial and other numbers on the ECM for my tuner since I guess C&C's are a little different to tune. Do you happen to know where they would be?

So I recently bought a 2011 C&C truck not knowing that there was quite a bit different between a C&C and a normal 3500. I knew they had things such as longer frames and the aux switches and stuff but I wasn't aware they are actually detuned compared to the normal trucks along with a different transmission, the Aisin 68rc. Does anyone know anything about these transmissions? Can you tune them like a 68rfe or are the more like the 69 and tune themselves? Can they hold any power, as I am getting EFI live (not very hot of course just to wake it up from its stock 305hp) and don't want to blow it up the first week. What are the weaknesses? The information I've found out there is quite limited, so any help is appreciated, thanks!!

Perfect, no play, free spinning. It's a sealed unit so it's all there still.

I have not but I plan on draining it. It's a pretty good amount of rotation in that clutch...

Ok well that would make sense. Every day to work, there's a decent bump in the road that is always hit and about 50% of the time it'd cause my transmission to pop out of 4th gear. Does that mean full rebuild?? Yeah I was talking to a buddy that had one, he has a 2wd one he wants $2500 for.... No idea how much it'd be to make it a 4wd, but he said the same thing about how pricey they are to rebuild, but this one is rebuilt....

Well, @dripley @NIsaacs @IBMobile, we pulled the tranny out today and lemme tell you, the bearing was making some noise, but that wasnt the problem I don't think..... My input shaft has a pretty healthy amount of up and down play and has ruined my center shaft (lack of a better word) of my clutch..... Seeming how I can spin that center piece about 2-3 inches and it wiggles around. Other than that everything looks healthy! So heres the next questions: -I have a connection to get a good NV5600, will that bolt up to my transfer case with no problems, and can I use the same shift tower? I have a 241 DHD. OR -What will it take to fix that play in the input shaft? I assume its just that bearing in there? Transmission gave me no problems what so ever when it was running and driving, hell, it was rebuilt in '14 and probably has close to only 50k on it by now.

So NAPA sells SFK correct? When I look up clutch relief bearing it comes up with 2, a $130 one, and a $106 one. Which one should I get? The Napa bearing is the $130, BRG is the $106 one, and that's all I'm seeing...

There we go that's the name, Aetna! So should I be ok with a National Bearing or go with SKF? Is SKF the company you're referring to that had some issues?

What would you recommend then? I was just gonna try whatever oriellys had, being it's a $57 bearing, figured it was pretty stout.

I've had that too. I caught it today so I'm hoping all is good.... It was something with an E? I've never heard of them before. Figured I'd go with a National Bearing Company throw out bearing.

Yeah the guy even told me they bought them in bulk, and spin and feel every single one, which I find hard to believe but oh well....

It'll be 2 in October I believe.

Just got off the phone with them, yeah they aren't gonna do anything. Basically just said woops sorry.... Amazing.

I plan on calling South Bend and seeing what's up, granted by now it's out of warranty, it's still highly annoying that a premature failure has occured although I was driving it wrong. I'll definitely be checking it!

Gotcha, I understand now thank you!

So you're saying you don't sit at a light with the clutch disengaged with it in gear? I'm just double checking if I'm reading that right.

Well I talked to a buddy who actually sold me the clutch since he's a dealer, turns out you're not actually supposed to sit at a light, in gear, clutch disengaged, and foot on the brake. Throw out tends to get a little unhappy....

Yeah you got a point it is just us I guess I included us and the other forums in on the "us"