TheGreatWhite

So we acquired a 97 Auto at the beginning of this month and it's got a couple problems, one of which is it has absolutely no cluster. The good ole Okie that owned it before me had a BD Torq Shift box (or something to that effect) on it that started messing up, so he started cutting wires to cut it out and it completely killed all the lights on the dash. So if anyone knows which wires are responsible and can point me in the right direction it'd be much appreciated! I'd look through a 97 wiring diagram if I could find one, but the BD box doesn't give pin-outs or anything, just wire colors and doesn't even tell me where the torque converter wire is either, just the color. The PCM wire responsible for the VSS was cut in half and spliced into a wire to the shift box, and when he removed the box he just cut the wire used to split into the box, but theoretically they'd still be touching so if there are a series of wires responsible for the cluster to work, anyone know which one those are?

Back in October I went ahead and upgraded to the 4th gen tie rods and while I was at it I replaced the track bar, and everything was all peachy until I hit a bump and it dropped out the socket on the driver side and I could never get it to stay, so I returned it and got a Moog bar and I'm still having problems, in fact, it's worse with bump-steer and it's like driving a wet noodle down the road. If torqued them to spec, loctited them, and even stripped the nut on the frame side I tightened it so much, and here I still sit. If anyone has a solution, it would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Holy cow I never would have put those two together! Thanks for the tip! I've been wondering how the heck I'm going to find out my oil temp outside of a new gauge, this makes things so much easier! Should I/ does it need some thread tape?

I'm running brand new Warden 2s in 235/85/16 from Treadwright. I believe once I put on my factory bed I'll get my aerodynamics in line, but outside of cutting speed holes or building something to swoop the air away on the side, I'm kinda stuck till I cut the bed off. Do I need to buy a oil temp gauge or is there a sensor in the Quad program that gives me the temp? Cause I've looked and can't seem to find it. It's basically 0-1 all the way up to about 35, 5 gear is when boost really starts piling on. I can generally keep boost out in 1-4, but 5 is a little tough cause of all of said drag.

Well I don't have much flat where I'm from in Kansas (believe it or not Kansas isn't entirely flat) so it's a lot of up and downs quickly. Driving up a hill can be 13-15psi, down 2-5psi so I can't really tune with flat in mind, or can I? So what are some tips (for after I put on my factory bed since that's next) on tuning lower boost pressures but to burn efficiently? Is that just decreasing fueling under fueling per psi? Bare with me cause I'm still learning. Or If I'm all fuel and not enough air, since I run 8-10psi on average on flat road, wouldn't a bigger turbo work though? After all your are running a 60/60/12 and I'm still on a completely stock hx35, which is what, a 54/58/12? Or somewhere close to that? Granted I still have a lot of drag, but it seems a lot of the people with great mileage have bigger turbos. Me has a he351, you have your 35/40 hybrid, couple even have big compounds and are getting great mileage.

So here's a question and an idea, would a turbo do anything with lowering the load? I have a Smeding 62/65/14 I've been thinking about throwing on the ole girl, either that or I have a stock he351cw. Would either or help with engine load and mileage?

So to up the bar is that sending them back to DAP or can I take them to my nearest certified Bosch pump and injector shop? I have a good buddy who works there that can hook me up on some injector work.

Is that 7-12% at idle? At idle I'm 5-7%. My injectors are just 7.009 DAP Bosch VCOs, do you know off hand what their pop pressure is?

Man that is a beautiful truck! I've been looking for old Ford's in that body style or a 60-70s Power Wagon to put a Cummins in. I'm starting to concede to the whole smaller tire idea more and more but I don't get it, why do people keep saying to go with a bigger tire to drop the rear end down to get better mileage? My dad had a 95 that started out with 4.11s and fuel sucked, so he swapped them for 3.53s and from then on got 22mpg consistently on the same exact tires I run, 235/85/16, and even one time went to 285s and still got great mileage.

Yeah cause I asked my brother and he said we were 11k with a pretty heavy trailer and a ton on said trailer.

Actually closer to 9k, found some receipts.

7800-8000lbs I believe

Here's a better picture on how far out the flatbed sticks out.

Its not even for a Dodge funny enough, but I don't see how all that steel could be lighter than sheet metal. The underside is made of I beam, C channel, and square tubing. I have a bed for the truck, just need to cut this one off the frame sadly :(.

Well I live in the Flint Hills so it's semi flat, but when it's not the hills are quite the pull, but in that log yes it was relatively flat with one semi good hill.

I haven't done the test in awhile but I might do that later today. I have a weak spot in a boot on the hot side charge pipe that's through the rubber top layer, but I've tested it before and it's shown no buddles? Could this be the issue?

By peg I mean like hit the wastegate (25psi it seems since it's just got a metal dowl in the tube). It's a 35psi gauge from glowshi(f)t.

Even if I have a leak will I be able to build as much boost as I can? I can peg it pretty easily.

I don't recall it being windy when I was driving yesterday.... Could it be a tune issue as well?

Ill check that boot out! I've done vacuum tests before and nothing has ever came of it. could it be the flatbed sticks out 8 inches on both sides?? I've brought that up to a couple people and they've dismissed it but being in Kansas it gets pretty darn windy....

Now that you say that, the truck will roll pretty easy so the brakes are fine. Like I said the MAP is from factory and would be my next go to issue but seeming how the Quad has a boost fooler, wouldn't that cancel out that probability? I'm not really sure how the boost fooler works if someone would like to shed some light on it. Intake boots and clamps could be it thats a good point, I have one boot with a weak spot but I check it regularly and it is still going with no leaks plus I can pretty easily peg out my boost gauge. Intercooler was cleaned upon reinstall of the motor and I try to keep everything pretty clean. Same fluid all around in axles and tranny (NV4500) as when I hit 18mpg and with the old motor that regularly got ~18..... Thats what miffs me so much, I understand they arent created equal but cmon!

235/85/16 on the old girl since shes a dually. Same size of tires I've had on it the entire time. What's the best way to check this? I've considered this in the past, as when I redid the drums a year ago they were getting pretty hot right after we installed them but afterwards they adjusted, also new calipers and brakes up front which one was dragging on the old calipers and yet, still no change....

Hey guys I'm back! Crazy year, didn't have much money here lately but started a new job and I'm back! Anyways, I received the Quadzilla for my 01 a year ago for my birthday and I was super excited because for once I'll have custom tunes and I will be able to get out of the <15mpg that I had been getting with my Smarty S03.... Boy was I wrong..... Year later, mileage still sucks. NEVER got above 15mpg, no matter if I ran a tune of my own, or one of Mike's, Me's, nor Drips tunes. I'm at a loss from where to go from here. With my S03 I got 18mpg ONE TIME so I know its possible, but I've never been able to break that mid 15mpg mark. All I have done motor wise is 100hp DAP VCO injectors with an Airdog 150, and the axles are 3.53s. Recently the TPPS started going out but I doubt that's entirely the issue. Truck doesn't really smoke at all, but depending on what tune I run it'll obviously effect smoke, just mileage ain't going anywhere. History behind the motor as its not stock to my truck: Threw it in 2 years ago after my 53 block had cracked, motor sat for about 6 years. 4 months after getting it reinstalled in my truck I threw new injectors, tubes, and orings into it and thats the only thing thats been done to it within its 234k mile existence and it did bump up the mileage from 12 to 16 pretty regularly. Previously it was in an old mans truck before it totaled a deer out and subsequently the truck, so all the sensors had been sitting dormant for awhile. My question is am I doing something wrong? I've tried to read the datalogs but nothing is out of the ordinary and honestly I don't really know what I'm looking for, so I'll include a 65mph datalog that I took today, kinda a last second deal but I have other logs I can throw in if need be, this is just the latest and the only log I have of the tune I'm running. If someone can help me I'd be in your debt forever, I'm sick of terrible mileage, especially driving 70 miles a day. I'd really appreciate any help I can get, Happy New Years! EDIT: I'm going to throw this consideration in, but should I swap PCM and ECM? I got the set when I got the new motor and just respectively threw them on there with their motor, cause at the time I didn't know better. Seemed that the old PCM and ECM combo got better mileage, probably not though, still food for thought..... iQuad-2019-12-26-05.49.267182238428847019659.csv

Sure will give you a little whiplash if your turbos spooling hard! Mine happened at 15psi I could only imagine at 60psi!

I had one blow on my after I swapped my cracked 53 block. I had a bad clamp and I knew it but I thought if it came off it'll be fine, and sure enough I blew it off twice and oh my Lord it scared the crap out of me, thought I blew something up and honestly was about to cry cause I was blowing so much smoke and I thought I ruined my week old motor!