01dodge24v5.9

Mopar1973man are you running the professional quality series or the standard series?

Anyone have a connection to get EMF ball joints for an 01 4wd 2500 ? Or feed back good? Bad?

Couple of y'all earlier were talking about your truck will spin the tires easy..... My will not spin them period! I'm not wire tapped maybe that's way but I'm running canbus starting around 95 up to 145 and timing. Basically even if I brake boost my turbo, it takes off pretty good, stutter a couple of times then pulls hard.... but NEVER tire spin.... I'm 150hp injectors, bw 362 sxe turbo, 4in exhaust etc, 265 /75 tires auto trans. I feel like I should be about to cook these tires.... but nope. What do y'all think ? Do I have it turn down to much?

Yeah I did away with mine bc it is in the way and it was easy to cut down. Do any of the bolts on the drivers side go through to oil ports?

Yeah I'll have to check that also I forgot about it too. I cut the original bracket down bc I'm running a fass.

No that's just a picture I found on the Internet but thats what my block looks like. It's not shooting oil out or even dripping while it's idles, so maybe it's not where it's leaking from. Im just getting oil on the driver side from somewhere, everything gets coated on the drivers side at about the bottom of the pcm down, when I drive it for about a week. I can see most of the tappet covery gasket and it looks pretty clean. So I don't think that ls the issue, plus I just changed it back in February(12v cover) I thought maybe it was coming from the spot in the above pic bc when I put my finger over the hole it felt like there was a little pressure like crank case pressure. Maybe it was just my imagination lol

I've been leaking oil from the drivers side of the motor and my fear was the tappet cover which I just replace..... But turns out the oil is coming from a port in the block just below the motor mount. (see picture). My question.... Is this threaded? or was there a plug or something in the hole that maybe blow out? And how do I keep this from happening again?

What does the canbus boost fueling table (number values) look like when I'm on level 0 or stock level?

Alllllright last thing I discovered is what caused the sound of my engine to change...... "injector rattle" caused from timing? (See the attached pic of my timing... 28* @3000, 30* max and canbus fueling. With no wire tap.) My question is..... this seems to be caused by high timing, low boost and low fuel load? .... possibly map sensor? Will keeping my timing the same and adding fuel help? Or will just pulling timing help? Lastly does this harmful to the engine/injectors?

Hi, all. Looks like the problem was in fact the ball and spring. Pressure issue fixed! Low power not as much boost issue, was my IAT mis-reading the temp. It was reading 9.75k ohms at 70 degress which is closer to the 78 degree range.... I pulled it, cleaned it, and retested it. Improved to 11.74k ohms which was better, but should hould have been closer to the 13k ohms. I order a new one. Drove the truck power and boost is back to normal along with lower egts. Thanks for the help!!

Does anyone know of any discount codes or how to get free shipping from geno's garage?

No I just ordered it from they're website. I got the 17lb spring so when I do the spring mod I dont lose any psi. Bc I noticed my spring got a little shorter after the mod and I had to stretch it a little.

Yeah I called fass two days ago after finding a write up about the ball on this site. My ball was stuck in the end of my spring a little bit, which would account for the pressure loss. I tried the spring mod and it helped a little, but still had the surge going on. My ball had about a 1/8in, grove/imprint where it was contacting the pump side. Fass is sending me a new ball and spring. I also ordered a viton ball and spring from Vulcan just incase the problem comes back. Guessing my pump was one that sat on the shelf for a while before they shipped it. I have 1/2in push lock throughout the system. Just a little info for everyone Diesel auto power stressed to me not to go over 16psi to the vp44 bc it causes them to heat up shortening the life span of the electronic.

The fass is only 3 months old I've only put 800 miles on the truck. The video with the quadzilla screen is just afterm I installed it in December. It had a surge issue then also. I thought it was just my sensor being overly sensitive, so I barley cracked the petcock just before the sensor and took a lot of the bounce out of the gauge. Made more fuel pressure then. Now making less fuel pressure, and still has the surge issue.

Only code was p0500, the analog gauge I dropped once and it zeros at the 18psi mark on the gauge. The actual pressure is 12psi then surges up to 22psi. I'm going to replace the overflow valve on the return side and see if that helps. But the truck is definitely down on power. Not building as much boost, higher egts. I'm down to fuel issue which I can see on the gauge and possibly a sensor issue.... map, iat?

This is when I first installed the fass 150. I thought the petcock just needed to be close a little. I closed it and barely cracked it which helped the gauge bounce but the system is still surging. Is there some kind of pressure regulator that maintains constant pressure? Flow test moved the pressure line from the vp44 and stuck it in the tank fill.

Okay I've got something going on with my truck and I'm in need of ideas. My truck sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like? I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, (I can post them if anyone wants to look them over). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from yesterday. Today I adjusted the valves ( they were a little loose), while running the truck after the valve lash adjustment I noticed the fuel pressure was running between 12-13 psi at idle. I put a mechanical gauge on it and I've got a crazy surging going on. It will stay at 12ish - psi for a second or two, then surge up to 22ish, then drop back to 12ish again(I'll try and add a short video). I did the bucket test on the fass 150 everything is flowing great no surge, Next, I put everything back except pulled the fuel line off the vp44 and ran it into the fuel tank via main fill hose (used the key bump flowed great). Last, I powered the pump with a constant power source independent of the trucks electrical system flowed great no surge. What I need ideals with is I think I have possible two problems aggravating each other. First is the loss of power, boost with higher EGT. I'm not sure on this one bc I haven't changed anything with the power out put in my tune. Just showed up along with the change in engine sound... Re-recap: boost test= no leaks, replaced the boost elbow set screw(I found it missing), adjusted valves, no blow by, waste gate functioning normal with compressed air test. Second is the fuel surging issue... It only seems to surge when the fuel lines are hooked up to the vp44. I'm wondering if there is a fuel return regulator or valve that's malfunctioning ? Re-cap: Fass 150 bucket test= no surge, in-tank pick up used to feed the fass 150 and pressure line flowing into tank fill = no surge, out side power source = no surge, all the lines back in the places they came from(pick-up, pressure, return) truck running with out side power source= surge, same as test before truck power source= surge Video file is to big, it won't let me upload it. I can email it to anyone that wants to take a look. Thanks guys any input or ideas will help!!

Okay I've got something going on with my truck. It sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like? I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, I think my tune setting are in the pages before this post (if not I can post them). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from today.

Yes the icon thanks again!

Thanks man thats what I was thinking of, ill look in the sending unit. Should the yellow light be on all the time?

I have something kinda weird happening not sure if it's my gauge or sending unit but my oil pressure reads 102 all the time, running or not. Also have this boost warning light that stays on? It's still reading boost on the display, but maybe not as much as it use too? oil pressure

and leave max at 30* ?

Yes Max is 30* just a typo.

Well that kinda suck, but the truck run really clean looks like when you floor a stock truck. Pulls pretty hard until 3000 - 3100 rpm I get a stutter / miss feeling. If I add fuel down low and pull timing will it help the spool time?

What is torque management ? First test run: (above graph) is a roll (13mph) to WOT the dive in CAN bus happens between 17 - 25mph. Second: From a stop to WOT with new timing (above in red). Seems to happen between 3 - 24mph. Third: From a 3mph roll to WOT, happens between 16 - 23 mph. Other thing I notice is i get a stutter on the top end of WOT feels and sounds like a miss.