BlackRam2500

The other question in all of this is, if the mechanical section of the pump is damaged or worn, can the parts be found to repair it, and how well calibrated is it?

Wix

I'm sure the Carter is not a great pump. On the other hand, the original one lasted over 100,000 miles. Thats nothing to sneeze at. Until I win the lottery or find a better job, there won't be any fancy anodized stuff under there. I'd like to put a gauge on it, but so far, no one has mentioned a gauge they think is worth buying.

So how is this done? I have done the KO/KO trick to my tuck for years and never have I seen two P done messages. AM I doing something wrong?

As it turns out, the pump waiting for me yesterday was a new carter unit. It does pump pretty well at this point. However, truck is running again, and thats what counts at this juncture.more questions:What gauge setup are people running?Is there a kit for the banjos and the bolts? I was definitely annoyed when I discovered how narrow the fuel flow was in the banjos.

This. Its one thing to cheat the specs on a slant 6... on a Cummins, might oughta take a hint from the engineers unless ya got free cash to spend on a couple of hp. Just my

I can easily understand where this would lower noise levels from valve train, but I question how much extra power a couple of thousandths would produce. That said, only a dyno could say for sure. Since the only drawback is clearances and expansion of the valves due to heat, it would certainly pay to set up at the factory minimum, beyond that its a game of what gets to the point of problems first.

I don't have cam specs to work from but I know a bit about how this works in relation to other engines, so this is just theoretical, food for thought.If the lash is tightened up, the duration of "valve open" is longer. This will result in longer overlap, which drops cylinder pressure in most cases. The question arises then, if the exhaust valve opens faster, it should push the turbo sooner, and get faster spool up. If thats true, does it then counteract the loss of cylinder pressure from longer overlap? My guess (a WAG so to speak) is that it may. As to MPG, because its a diesel, stuffing raw air in there still results in more power as it still expands when heated. So any way to get more air in without having to add fuel, should result in a power gain. How much? no idea. I have not tried on my Cummins, but years ago I did this mod on my 225 /6, and it ran MUCH better. At least it seemed to. and it was far quieter. All of this is worth exactly what I got paid to post it, and your mileage may vary.

I'm north central, just southeast of Williamsport. --- Update to the previous post... Thanks for all the comments. Due to time and cash considerations, I decided to go with the Airtex unit and keep the stock location for now. I plan on going to a Holley (probably black) and getting a fuel pressure gauge on in the spring. I know this may not make a lot of sense to some, but I don't see loads of HP in the future (300 would be the most), and I have a little one that needs stuff like food and diapers. Once I get out of the financial rut I'm in, I'll start doing the mods to the fuel system to get more reliability.

Contacts on my 2000 started popping the fuse at 80k or so, replaced the starter, and have done so again (since the ex had no idea what I meant when I said, replace contacts only) and now have 108k on it. Wonder why the huge difference in mileage between when my failures happened and the 170k you all got. Electrons are mysterious.

Truck ran fine on a short drive home from sitting a week. I attempted to change the fuel filter (wrong one given at the store), and put the old one back. I attempted to bleed the line, but heard no pump noise. Got just a dribble of fuel, then nothing time after time, though I did get some air on the first few attempts. After reading the FSM, I wondered if the ECM had killed the pump power due to no start. Easy way around it is to pull the relay (causing CEL and code) and jumper the relay out. No pump noise. I am going to check for voltage at the pump connector tomorrow, and if there is no voltage, look for wiring problem. However, I am not thinking this is the problem, as that would be "too easy". At 108k, I think the stock pump may have simply given up. Hopefully my coincidental swap of the fuel filter has saved me the VP44 headaches. That said, I am simply looking for the best fuel pump for the dollar. jgendr, how did you wire the pump? Is it tapped into the stock pump wiring, or something else?

It appears my lift pump is dead. I pulled the relay and jumpered the correct connectors, heard contacts click in, but no pump running. I'm on a budget (= low funding) and would like a decent quality unit that can bolt in, no huge modifications to my fuel system. Also, a recommended fuel pressure gauge installation set up would be appreciated.

Its a 2000, from what I've read, the 2001's did away with the CPS. I read the companion codes previously, and it was the CPS. I'm in the midst of replacing it to insure that it is working correctly, since it apparently wasn't at least a few times before. thanks for the sig reminder.

on occasion, I have had a CEL, and the P 1693 code. I had the ECU codes checked, and it was the crank position sensor. The CEL randomly has appeared, and nothing has happened except in 2-5 starts, the CEL goes out. This happened again two days ago. Today, CEL came on again, and on the way home from work, the engine stuttered. just a miss of maybe 2 or 3 power cycles, but ran smooth with good power otherwise. I am unaware of how to get both P done, I've tried and only get one, with the P1693 code. How is this done?Am I finally having to pay attention to the crank position sensor? Any pointers?Thanks for the input.