LiveOak

Just in case anyone wanted to get an idea of what and how a 5 inch exhaust looks like being installed: http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/showthread.php?t=12825

I am still running a Farm Boy Performance 5" inch turbo back straight pipe exhaust. A diesel symphony orchestra in motion.

Hey! NICE set of truck nutz!

Welcome to the forum deej.

In the event that you did not realize, AirDog pumps are guaranteed for life PROVIDED you registered your pump when you got it new. Sounds like your pump may have either ingested some crud from some sub par diesel fuel or the pump assembly is shot. There are provisions to adjust the pressure but if your pump pressure was set properly at the beginning (I am assuming it was) then unless something is afoul in your pump, it should still be around 18 psi. Call Airdog and make a warranty claim even if you forgot to register your pump when you got it new. If by chance you bought it from someone used or already installed on the truck from another owner, the life time warranty does not transfer IIRC. Still contact Airdog and find out what they can do for you if it turns out that have already opened up the intake to the pump and found no debry or crud.

If it appears or you think you have ice in your filters to the point that it has obstructed the fuel flow, I agree with rancherman to replace your filters in addition to treating the fuel as above. If for some reason you are not able to change filters due to location or availability, you can add isopropyl alcohol to your fuel. Isopropyl alcohol is soluble in both diesel fuel and water and will in the proper amount added melt any ice in the filters as well as solubilize any water present. Whenever I got a bad fuel sample on preflight, rather than panic and dump the entire 360 gallons of JP-8, I or the crew chief would continue to draw fuel from the sample sump into the fuel came out clean. I suggest you do the same on your diesel fuel water separating fuel filter. In addition to the above.

If you are having this problems gelling/freezing up. Push the truck back into a heated shop. Let it set over night. First drain the fuel water separator filter well to remove any possible water that may have accumulated in it. Then figure how much fuel in is the tank and mix in 10% kersosene. Start the truck up and run it long enough to ensure that you have pushed the treated fuel through the entire fuel system. The fuel water separator needs to be regularly drained especially and more frequently in cold weather. On edit for clarification: This includes not only the fuel water separating filter on the Air Dog but also the OEM fuel filter/water separating canister on the engine if you still have it or are using it. I still route my fuel from the Air Dog through the OEM fuel canister for the purposes of routing it through the fuel heater.

Actually I misspoke/typed. I should have typed and meant fuel pressure gauge sending unit.

Is your fuel pressure guage mechanical or electrical? If your guage is mechanical and you are using a fuel isolator in your fuel pressure indicating system as you should, the diaphragm becomes stiff and less flexible with age. Mine is. What I first start up, depending upon temperature, I have between 5 - 12 psi. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving down the road, the fuel pressure always gradually increases to the 18 psi I have my Air Dog set at. This happens each and every time I start my truck after any appreciable amount of time setting. I just have not felt it was that big of an issue to replace the diaphram or isolator. I did talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance about this issue and he confirmed my suspicion as well as sent me a new diaphram along with the spare isolator I ordered. I suspect if you put a fuel pressure test guage on the injector pump you may find that your pressure is just fine & steady and you have an indicating issue and not a pressure issue.

Sorry about the weird quotes but I am not up to speed on how the multi-quote replies work just yet.

He is probably busy building bee hive boxes and getting his equipment ready for the upcoming season.

For most land buyers I think I would be in agreement with you. When buying land for forestry and investment goals, being able to save that 10% real estate commission the agent gets can be a substantial amount of money in more that a few cases. Buying and managing land is not for everyone but if you can make it work and pay, it can be rewarding. Every dollar has to count. You have to find every way you can to make the land pay for itself. This can sometimes be a challenge but in the end worth it especially as I see it when I can improve wildlife habitat, improve forestry stands, and make the land available to responsible folks to enjoy.

You can do this for say a single hive but the pollen substitute is a bit pricey to feed it this way as dew and any moisture will make it get hard and mildew or mold. Chicken feeders work for small applications if you place a sheet of card board or something similar on the top. I use a Mann Lake Dry Bee-Pro® Feeder http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeeping-supplies/category/page54.html#FD-115 They are expensive but worth EVERY penny as they save a lot of money in lost and spoiled dry feed. I feed my bees Ultra Bee dry feed that I buy in bulk http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeeping-supplies/category/page51.html The bees need pollen of some type of suitable substitute to feed their brood and themselves. They make what is called "Bee Bread" where they mix the pollen with honey and bodily secretions.

They can be at times. Most of the time they take care of themselves with a little help from the beekeeper.

JAG1 gave you some SOUND advice. You want to avoid getting a loan or going into commercial debt. Try to save up as much money as you can so you can have at least a 20% down payment. Avoid realtors especially when it comes to raw land. Most.....NOT all, just want to collect a commission. A good real estate agent will go down to the courthouse and getting copies of previous deeds and related documents going back at least 20 years, find copies of surveys (you definitely want a survey sheet if it is available) , as JAG mentioned, the local ordinances and zoning are a must to be on top of. I am ALL OVER what JAG mentioned about talking with neighbors, getting a good clean title, and finding any possible land mines (like 2nd deeds of trust or IRS leans). A good attorney can be worth EVERY penny when it comes to a title search. Also make sure you have a FULL understanding of mineral rights to ANY land you plan to buy. Be sure to get out there and walk it to make sure you know what you are getting or at least do an aerial assessment via the tax assessors office, google, or other internet aerial photography. I am by NO means an expert in this area but I have been blessed and of fortunate circumstance that have allowed me to buy land. I have had some very smooth and enjoyable transactions and I have had some REAL Doozies that made my head hurt.

Amen to that!!! Happy much belated birthday Mike. Heck.......44???? Pfffft!!! You're still a young whipper snapper!

It so happens that my neighbor and friend has a woodmizer and has a good deal of experience with it and other sawmills, at least more than most. http://www.photos.ramseymountain.com/index.php?album=FABRICATE/SAWMILL The link is to photo's of his saw mill. You can use the Contact Us link and send him and email if you have any questions. I am sure he would be happy to answer your question as best his knowledge allows. Put it this way, he milled the vast majority of the lumber for the house he built and still lives in.

Thanks for posting. It has been almost 12 years since I retired from militarily clubbing the air into submission. The UH-60 has changed sooooooo much since I began flying it over 30 years ago. Aviation is constantly changing. So much information and skill to keep up with. My hat is off to these younger kids and official old farts who are flying them now. It looks like a LOT of fun and it IS but there is so much work, training, and preparation behind and that come with it that most folks don't realize. Not to mention the eventual element of risk.

So I have brought them inside the house and have them in my living room. Day before yesterday while out walking the Apiary and checking hives and my feeders I found a small swarm that landed on one of my syrup feeders. It was only about the size of a soft ball. I was astonished to see them this time of year and thought to myself they will NOT make through the night if I don't catch them and bring them in. I almost forgot about them while I was working on picking up honey supers and brood boxes but remembers them about 3 hours after dark and the temps took a huge dive. I am not sure if these are some of my bees or a feral swarm of bees but I will take any I can get. I lost 3 hives to the cold this week. They were pretty weak but I did not think they were that weak as they had a lot of bees inside and had some food store. The next day the bees just disappeared. I think they may have absconded into one of the larger hives next to it as they may have realized their queen was not well. I found one queen and revived her. She lived for a few days but died. The nurse I put with her lived. I think she may have gotten too cold or something was wrong with her. Well.......I thought to myself when I remembered that I cannot afford to lose a swarm if I can help it so off I went with a nucleus colony hive and my flashlight. Needless to say, they were NOT happy about me messing with them in the cold and dark but I tried to be a gentle as I could and gently coaxed them into the nucleus colony hive. Put the top on, strapped it together for my hike of about 300 yards to my insulated shed. I wrapped the nucleus hive in a Bee Cozy and folded the extra material down and layed a fire extinguisher on top to hold it in place. They were pretty happy to be in that nucleus box as I could hear them buzzing and humming. They stayed their in my shed for 2 days until my observation hives came in and I moved them into the observation hive today. They were pretty docile and only one bee flew out when I picked up their frames and moved them over the observation hive. Now I can bring them inside the house where they can stay warm and have six frames of drawn out comb with honey, pollen, and sugar syrup stores to feed on. On warm days I will take them out the EXACTLY the SAME place each time and open up the entrance so they can fly out and forage. Once it gets dark, I close the entrance and bring them back inside until the next warm day. I am hoping and have my fingers crossed that I caught the queen when I captured the swarm so she can start laying and build up the observation hive for Spring. This is my first start on building a nucleus colony and I will be learning how to raise queens and keep about a dozen nucleus colonies on hand for splits and building additional hives. My goal is to get to 100 hives initially and then build up more from there once I get my honey house built. My next adventure to keep me warm will be picking up the 2 pallets of 5 gallon buckets and pallet of lids that I need for containerizing the 3,000 lbs. of Ultra Bee Dry feed pollen substitute so I can store it in my shed and some for the other beekeeping clubs and beekeepers.

Wow! Can't believe I missed this thread. At the risk of reviving a dated thread, I would like to see some pics of how you rip a 2 x 8 into an approximate 1 x 8. Normally it has been my experience since a deep brood box is 9 5/8" tall, the starter stock must be a 1 x 12 that gets ripped down to the proper height. If you use an 8" tall box, a deep frame will be too long and a medium frame will be too short. In my experience, the best wood for bee hives is Cypress if you can find it. I live not far from an Amish man who has his own saw mill and mills Cypress from logs he gets trucked in from Arkansas. His price is such that I just cannot make them for the price he does so I buy them in bulk from him and was assembling them myself until I realized that he charged $1 to assemble the boxes. In fact, I was building my own frames and boxes until I realized that he was charging $36 for a Cypress deep brood box filled with 10 frames and bees wax foundation. If you care to make a long drive and stock up, you can get Cypress deep brood boxes unassembled for $11 each. The finger joints are already cut. You just need glue and nails or screws. I realize the distance is probably not practical but at least should give you an idea of what they go for if you can find some Amish or Mennonites in your area.

Ultimately it is the Load Index that is what matters. If your vehicle and load do not exceed the load index, I believe you are legally on safe ground with the law and your insurance company. I agree. Don't think I would do business with a company that operated like you mentioned. I have been with USAA for 31 years and they have been excellent in all respects. The BEST insurance and safety is common sense and abiding by it.

Guess I'll be the odd man out. I am running BFG T/A Radial KO's in 315/75R-16. It is an 8 ply tire. I normally don't haul heavy loads but on occasion do. An example would be picking up 6 55 gallon barrels of sugar that weigh about 420 lbs. each or picking up a bundle of 24 pressure treated 6 x 6 x 8's, and most recently a pallet of 12" x 8" x 16" concrete blocks (cinder blocks). These tires do just fine. I am on and off road about 50/50 so these tires are a good match for me. I normally run about 35 psi since I have a short bed but air up to max. (50 psi) if I pick up a load. If I was driving a dual rear wheel truck, I would probably go with load range E/10 ply. I will note that BFG I think has cheaped out on their T/A Radial off road tires as the original set I had on my truck and the currently on the wife's truck max. air pressure was 65 psi which tells me that they reduced the ply rating of the tire.