Scarecrow

Welp, just ponied up for another year, and I've got to say that this one of the better expenses that I have. The amount of technical knowledge, experience, and willingness to share is outstanding and needs to be supported. For those of you who use this site for information and advise (as I do) remember, it costs money to keep it up and running. Mike and his Mods aren't trying to make money, they're just trying to cover costs. For less than $10 bucks a month we can maintain this site, and continue to have access to one of, if not the best sites for our trucks. Remember, information not shared, is information lost. Mark

Once pulled from N Minnesota to Colorado in 4th because the weight of the load would not allow using 5th gear. 55-60mph tops, and milage was about what can be imagined for that kind of thing. No damage to the truck, but you do need to keep a eye on EGT's when on a grade. Mark

Have you ever considered an Alice Cooper look? Mark

Well, those are a couple of major problem/ issues. These are the things I need to hear. Mark

Hi guys, the time has come to make the major decision whether to put a good amount of money into the old girl (1998 3500), or just sell her and get a newer truck. Here's what I come up with as far as the pros and cons of each. 1998 Pros Paid for, New injectors, new tires, Quadzilla, NO emissions, Cons Rust, needs patch panels/bed or flat bed, will need clutch, rebuild or replace turbo, starting to have electrical issues, 370,000 miles 2014-2018 Pros 200,000 less miles, body/bed in good condition, updated features, Cons Payments, EMISSIONS, probably stuck with automatic, unknown probs/issues Any comments, thoughts, or ideas are welcome, and will be appreciated. Mark

Good to hear that you're doing better, stay strong brother! Mark

So what is different from the Wix 42790? Mark

So back to the bio question, is there any way (besides diluting with DF2) to bring down the cetane of bio diesel? Mark

Yup, that's the joke. However, per the internet: Why do cetane numbers matter? The higher a fuel's cetane number, the quicker it ignites — and that carries a variety of benefits for diesel equipment. From increased fuel economy to fewer emissions to better power output, fast combustion is key to a diesel engine's performance.Apr 20, 2021 And: Since diesels rely on compression ignition, the fuel must be able to readily auto-ignite and quicker is better. A higher cetane number, indicating a shorter ignition delay time, usually means more complete combustion of the fuel. This translates into: Quicker starting Quieter operation with less diesel chatter Improved fuel efficiency A reduction of harmful emissions Less wear and tear on the starter and batteries Quicker pumping of protective lubricating fluids throughout the system It's got to be true because it's on the internet! You can see what you're up against, with this kind of "information" out there. I'll give them the quicker starting, but thats about it. Mark

After our talk last month I started to watch my oil temp and load closer, and that's when I figured out I was too advanced for the fuel I'm using. One of the problems is unless I go to ND and find non bio, I'm stuck with a higher cetane fuel that will limit my advance/MPG. MN mandates B20 from 15 Apr to 30 Sep, which according to the interweb is a wonderful thing. Of course the interweb also thinks higher cetane is better for diesels and the environment. Mark

Well, after a lot of reading and a conversation with Mike, more timing should lower EGT and engine load, however when I added timing my load and EGTs went up. Before I got to the numbers he thought would work, engine started to buck, sign of over advance. When I backed off the timing both across the RPM band and cruise things got better. This led me to a thread Mike wrote about in the winter he pulled timing out due to higher cetane numbers in winter fuel. This makes sense, but got me thinking about the fuel our trucks were designed to run with, which was not ultra low sulfer biodiesel fuel, so I started digging. Per NDSU AE 1240 No. 2 diesel fuel usually has a cetane rating between 45 and 50 while vegetable oil is 35 to 45. Biodiesel is usually 50 to 60. The ignition quality affects engine performance, cold starting, warm up and engine combustion roughness. Cetane rating is related to the volatility of the fuel where more volatile fuels have higher ratings. A high cetane fuel also may lead to incomplete combustion and smoke if the fuel ignites too soon by not allowing enough time for the fuel to mix with air for complete combustion. The energy content of the fuels also vary. No. 2 diesel fuel typically contains about 140,000 BTU's per gallon while vegetable oil and biodiesel contain about 130,000 BTU/gal. Fuels with a high heat of combustion will usually produce more power per pound of fuel than fuels with lower energy. As a result, an engine using a lower energy fuel will require more fuel to produce the same power as diesel fuel. As a result of the lower energy content, biodiesel will require about 1.1 gallons of fuel to do the same work as a gallon of diesel fuel. So biodiesel has more cetane and less BTUs (energy), doesn't seem to be a problem with the newer trucks, but our trucks aren't new. Here in the land of 10,000 taxes we are mandated B20 in the warmer months and B5 in the winter. While it is easy to add cetane, my question to the group is it possible to lower the cetane rating? Mark

Ok, so here is what I've worked out for a DD, tell me if I'm wrong, or if I'm going down the right path. DAP 7x.009 injectors popped @ 320 bar, hx35 turbo, 215 85r 16 tires, 3.55 dif TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 7 RPM Limit: 3400 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 50 PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1400 TPS Pump Maximum: 100 TPS Pump Minimum: 25 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI 8 Boost Scaling: 35 TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv: 3 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 16 2000 RPM: 18 2500 RPM: 22 3000 RPM: 25 Max: 26 Mark

Mancini racing has the repo brackets for small blocks, if you go to their website and look them up there are pictures, or you can just order them. Mark

Just got my Quad, and have a few questions, forgive me if I say something stupid. After a whole lot of reading on this site a couple of things are making me look for answers. First, it seems to me that I need to add timing because my injectors are DAP 7x.009 and popped @ 320 bar. My question here is I know that as they wear, they will drop in pressure. Has anyone worked out a table based on mileage/hours of when to start taking that advance out? Second, what is fairly simple, can I just tap into my existing gauges for the fuel pressure and pyro to the Quad? Again, sorry if I'm asking stupid questions, but I like to understand what and why I'm supposed to be doing something and not just because someone said so. Kind of weird for someone who spent 24 years in the Army, right? Mark

Ok, I'll wait until the quad shows up and then start playing with that. Until then, I've still got to do a leak down on the road runner, and then work on the kick down linkage on the Ramcharger. Between that and calving there's just way to much stuff needing work, and nowhere near enough time or money. Mark