Terry C
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Another thing to do is take a piece of 1X6 about 8 to 9 inches long and place it on the studs sticking up. Tap on the board with a hammer to get indentations of the studs. Drill the indentations out with a drill bit about the same size as the studs. Put the 1x6 back on the studs and tap it down with the hammer. You now have a surface that protects the BHAF from rubbing on the studs and A/C tubing. I did that a couple of years ago so I forgot the actual sizes........
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I have been running a BHAF for the last NINE years. All I did was put the hose right on the end of the BHAF and ran it. No outerwears, innerwears, or underwears either! Not even a heat shield. I have not had one single problem with water getting into the filter and no snow either! Just put the snout right on the hose and run it.
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Here is the best price I have seen on muffler bearings: MUFFLER BEARINGS You will need to keep an eye on this to see when it is back in stock: BLINKER FLUID
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Leave the injectors alone. Your problem is the timing gear on the pump slipped. The timing is retarded real bad. This is a VERY COMMON problem. Here are the instructions for HOW to set the timing: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm And here are the plunger lift charts: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm
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Sounds to me like you didn't use an ANALOG meter. The reason I said analog was because of the needle on the display. If there were any 'flaky' spots in the APPS you would see them with the needle a lot easier than with a DMM. From what you say about what you end up with it does sound like the 3.09 is giving you the P0122. Do you just by chance have any fueling/timing box on your truck? If you do unhook it completely and put the truck back to stock and let us know what happens.
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Check to make sure that the shut down solenoid is pulling ALL the way up. I had one here that would start OK, but not great, want to stall and not have much power. I pulled the solenoid and cleaned everything up and it ran like it was supposed to again.
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You sure you don't have a headgasket leaking? That would be the only thing I can think of that would cause the cap to expel air when it is running.
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I guess that would explain why it quit.....
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What do you mean "draws in air while heating up"? When the antifreeze is heating up it will expand and push into the overflow bottle.
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Well, since you have it back to stock except for the injectors and you have a random miss that points to electrical. This is from Blue Chip's site: ROUGH OR ROLLING IDLE OR INTERMITTENT MISS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS AT LESS THAN FULL THROTTLE This is almost always the computer on the top of the injection pump, especially if it only happens warm or hot, as long as there is no air in the fuel and no codes pertaining to Crankshaft or Camshaft sensors are apparent. If those codes exist, replace those components. It can also be a sticky piston in the rotor. By now you know that any of this means REPLACE THE VP44! It sounds to me like you have a problem INSIDE the VP. I suggest you contact Blue Chip and see what their techs say.
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There is definitely an electrical gremlin under the hood. Have you checked all the connections under the hood to see if there are any corroded or loose ones? Also, put the truck back to stock and see what happens. I saw one where it would start and run fine then after a couple seconds the truck would dead pedal and keep running even with the key in your hand. It turned out the Edge box was hosed........
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I have been able to get the fan off with a large set of grove joint pliers (think Channelocks) along with a block of wood and a hammer. Put the pliers on the fan hub nut, put block of wood on handle of said pliers and WHACK!! Usually works. Sometimes it takes a few smacks, but those wrenches are a superior method than what I have done. Just remember LEFT hand threads on the hub nut.