ISX

Was trying to find a pic for guesswho and found this instead. Guesswho, he bent the shock behind the skid plate, that shock works the same as the ones on the suspension, resisting fast movement to allow for better steering control, or "stabilizing" it. One end connects to the axle to have something solid to work with, and you can see the other end connected to the track rod to stabilize it. So when you hit that raccoon on the road, it should stay straight, how it's supposed to work anyways Think that skid plate would have helped you dorkweed

Might even try going onto http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Default.aspx, clicking no and searching for R134 manifold gauges Your link was dead Mike..

*NEGATIVE* 2 DAMNIT!! I'd like to see how it did at -20 though. Actually, let me retard the timing first

Damn your good! I was going to PM you about it within the next 10 min and then I saw this thread Let us know how easy the install was, and how much it helped your steering I've been dieing to know how it will perform

There is a point in that movie where you heard the turbo spool up, think when he floored it coming out of the hole, and you can see it all clear up. So he had to have just been lugging the hell out of it the entire time. I have a pond about the same depth as those that I need to take that through

Alright this has to top any truck pull Yes its a 12V! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Nyv9OrWqPM

Yeah you guys are SOL on in chamber diesel vid. In fact that is the only vid I can find on youtube at all showing inside the chamber. I will keep digging around and see if I find anything else neat. Usually can't find anything but today has been really productive, must be because I completely ignored any thoughts about my dash

I don't even wanna get into this hahahaha I did find another neat youtube though. You can see intake on the right and exhaust on the left. Seems they cut the exhaust stroke short in each clip for some reason. Still really neat. Well no it sucks, I will find one with an injector http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEf8va1S7Sw&feature=related

I thought mine smoked a little much in the morning, but I guess it's normal compared to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOj6gPwkiXg&feature=related

Hmmm, I wonder if that is just with WVO or if that includes biodiesel factories. I know food and all that would add a lot of crap to it, like the salt you mentioned, just wouldn't think b20 from the pump like I can get here would have anything bad in it, but maybe so. All I know is it's 15 cents more expensive than regular, so not seeing how going green saves money

I am going to move this into general conversations. Kinda isn't 24V help related Might try wearing gloves next time.. I never even try to take mine out, I don't even think it has ever been out. When I took the pan off a few months ago there was no sludge or anything that doesn't come out with the oil so I don't think that is much of an issue I see your point though, better safe than sorry

I actually held back a lot because I knew I might stick it on here. I have 10 other movies of when I was taking the dash out which I didn't really hold back in, mainly why I didn't upload them I have tools all over my truck from the removal/install, I haven't put any of them up so it's a complete mess. I still have to put center console in. That will be fun I'm sure lol Sometimes worse vision is better, I took off twice as many electrical connections than I needed to that all caught my eye. Some things were way up in the dash and I didn't even need to mess with them. I thought the radio antenna wire had to be pulled out but that actually has a connection on the passenger side right on the lower corner of the dash that you just disconnect.

Eh, I hate having to work around things, or just barely be able to get something out. I mean I took the engine out mainly to helicoil the fuel plate screws which would have been just as easy to take the brake fluid crap off and be able to get to it just as easily, but I wanted to be 100% sure I was drilling in straight and everything so I just took it out. Plus you can always learn more doing it how I do it.. Hopefully anyways

So I found where the plate and screws went. The whole dash has been absolute chaos for me so I knew just putting the plate in was going to screw up one way or another so I decided to video tape it to kinda show you guys where it went but more just so I could watch myself screw up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7n77IX2upg

Care to explain? It's been eating at me for days

That does change a lot of factors. Batteries wear down over time if you let them just sit there, worn fuel lines might slowly let air in, fuel itself gets stuff you don't want in it, in it.. It's good practice to start it at least once a month and drive it a good distance, maybe 20-50 miles, to get everything nice and lubed and charged. In the winter, make sure you plug it in first so you don't wake the beast to those hard cold starts. I am not sure how often you mess with it though, worn batteries causing slow cranking speed will keep it from starting very good.

Has it just gradually got worse? How many miles have you put on it in that 2 years?

If yours is a 24V then the timing changes depending on temp and/or engine speed. Which means yours should always start like mine did in that -2F temp. We are basically discussing the effectiveness of the dynamic timing that 24V's have in comparison with the older p pumped 12 valves. You are right though, advanced timing makes starting worse because it is injecting the fuel farther before TDC, so heat is still being built yet it is already firing in fuel, so you wait till it's closer to TDC, which has more heat, and then you inject the fuel and it ignites more readily, giving you the good winter start. Since I advanced mine (in second vid, 18f start..) you can see how the piston needs to go up more and build more heat before the injector fires because it is so cold that it needs all the heat it can get to start good. 24V's change the timing automatically as I said, so your problem lies somewhere else. Maybe grid heater not working correctly. Got any codes, any other symptoms you can tell us?

The only benefit I see with analog gauges is the fact that you can judge *rate*. You can watch the needle fly up or down, with digital you can watch it, but it's not as easy to tell. Like EGT takes seconds to go from 800 to 1200 if I floor it, and I want to see that rate. If I add a 23443" exhaust, I want to see that the rate slowed down so I know the exhaust or whatever mod, helped it.Otherwise, I think it looks pretty neat!

Mike's messing with experience points and everything. If you put your mouse over each one you can see what they are for. I'm seeing Points/Level/Overall Activity. Either they are changing colors or my eyes are messing up so I think he is still playing around

No snow, no jet-ski, no problem :lmao:Isn't that water cold up there?

Well it's at home so have to wait till weekend again. After I disabled every single program and had to reactivate, the computer was all messed up. Device manager wouldn't show anything, a lot of things wouldn't show anything. So I just took advantage of the situation and put in a different hard drive and reinstalled windows. I didn't load anything, just got xp done doing its installation, restarted a few times to confirm that yes, it was the same speed. Did nothing but install SP2, restart multiple times, same speed. Installed SP3, same, installed all my programs and drivers, same. It's like there is a time out going on for the hard drive, telling it not to do anything until a while has gone by. I will try safe mode when I get back and see if it makes any difference.

You worked on both their trucks? Must have had quite the day lol. Sounds like fun though. How many miles is it from your house to the nearest gas station anyways? Awesome that he gave you a salmon. Cash is one thing, something he might have spent all day to catch is another! Nice work

That's basically what I said, somewhere You are 100% correct though. Here it is before I advanced the timing at -2F http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xqdp_EZGw8 So I advanced it, then I end up with this, when it was 18F. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ35vWV3ToQ So yes, timing does have a LOT to do with starting. The P7100 does NOT advance, it is at the same timing at idle as it is at redline. The VE and the VP44 are dynamic. The VE advances based on fuel pressure, I think 5 degrees from idle to WOT. Now here the part I am debating. You can see in the first vid, it starts up just fine. So then you wonder about timing. You read about people getting more power, more mileage, less EGT, higher cylinder pressure, etc. So I figure why not. But I just haven't seen enough change to be worth it. It starts like crap, as you can see, the power gain isn't enough for me to care, mileage gain is negligible, lower EGT umm not at all, definitely higher cylinder pressure since it knocks a lot more. I guess it has more power up high, I guess it has less down low, I can hardly tell. So what I am getting at is that leaving my truck at stock timing seems like it would be easily comparable to a 24V, in any weather. I didn't notice enough of a change in anything to say that advancing as it gets higher in the RPM is much of something to brag about. I do think dynamic is good, I think every engine should run at optimal at every RPM, but I just can't see where it really adds *that* much of an advantage. I have read a lot of people getting 2mpg better and stuff going to 16 degrees, which bumped them up to the average I was getting before I even touched timing, though it didn't change after I did.I've never asked this but what degree is a VP44 at on that -20F day? At operating temp idling? WOT?

Not sure why he didn't just dump it down the stacks, that's where the soot is :lol:I've only used that stuff when filling up as an additive, maybe twice. Never did anything bad, or good as far as I can tell. Another thing to watch out for, guy upstairs just got an injection pump off an 8.3, not a p pump but a different smaller output inline pump. Some guy gave it to him saying biodiesel destroyed it. I can't really understand how, since fuel hardly travels far in an inline pump, not through it like rotary ones. Only thing I can think of is it brought some abrasives into the system which trashed the barrel or plunger's tight fit seal and everything started leaking Wish I knew more details on what exactly happened.