ISX

I was beginning to wonder where that was leading I'll stir the pot a bit more. The world has issues today, yes. But if you really look at it, we have always had issues. The economy is crap, taxes are high, yeah lots of things, but the problems of today are only problems of somebody else's day in a different form. We have ended slavery, gone through depressions where everyone was on the streets, slept next to burn barrels to keep warm.. If anything, we should be so lucky today. We can get in our trucks, start them, have heat and A/C, and still manage to complain about it. However, a perfect world would be boring. We need problems in order to grow/improvise/invent, and continue advancing to keep the world from being boring. We strive on learning new things so every problem we deal with is a necessary one to continue growing and advancing.

Last night I pulled a powerstroke (imagine that ) on a trailer and I came up with 8000lbs for total load. Now I don't know if anyone notices when they are pulling, but I hit an "EGT wall" at 900F when maintaining speed. Keeping 60mph going up a few steep hills and such the max I saw was 15psi/900F. However on the return trip (with just the trailer), same max, 15psi/900F. Seems with any load at all I just rise to 900F and it just stops. So at what EGT do you guy's hit this "wall"? Don't take this the wrong way and think I mean flooring it up a hill, but just maintaining speed with a trailer what do you all hit?

120,000k is a long time but it's not the VP that doesn't last it's the lift pump that doesn't, which you already went through one. If you can catch it in time, you replace the lift pump and the VP doesn't know the difference, the VP's go out when you continue driving with low pressure and it gets hot and probably doesn't have much lube so it dies on you. They will last inevitably, as long as they have sufficient cooling and lubrication in the fuel. Getting a good lift pump ensures this along with the 2 stroke thing.

I am not too worried about finding out whose IR's go in the negatives or not Hmm, maybe I am the only one who does all this stuff with them.

I just turn the radio up, turn the heat up, act like a summer day, I enjoy it so much I lengthened the time spent doing it by driving the 90 mile drive back to college at 50mph on a 4 lane Amazing going up a hill and watching the EGT's climb....to 600f haha

Yeah your on the right track, accelerating uses a lot of fuel so it sucks down the pressure.. I think you'll get bored watching a 2psi difference all day

Then come to find out the advisor is their neighbor

Yeah those are them. Yours might be a little cleaner, less rusty, shinier

Guess people are wondering why this thread is closed. We discussed this and determined it was in everyone's best interest to keep it from going any further. Not trying to end any helpful discussion but this topic was just asking for something to happen that wasn't going to be helpful to this site, or good for the site's reputation..

They are under the drivers side battery, in front of it kinda. You will see the two relays with 1 wire on each relay the same size as the ones going to the grid, there is also 2 more wires that are tiny going to each relay. If you are having trouble, unhook the green wire on each relay, then they won't be able to energize until you get everything fixed.Theres mine with a the positive side unplugged.

Sounds about right. Heres the guidelines.. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

Those 4 were the only ones I found from searching around. I'm sure there's more but I can't find any complete list.

Did some more searching.. There's 53,54,55, and 56. So 55 is definately valid so that has to be the block you got.

Sounds right. I think they are all considered good except the 53 block which cracks. But even then they don't crack if you treat them right, let them warm up.. You don't have the 53 so no worries.

I think your disclaimer makes it perfectly fine. Never know if young people have an interest in trucks and click on that not knowing what it is and have their mom walk by :lol:Or maybe dad would walk by and raise the kids allowance

Hmm, never thought of that. Do you notice a drop in pressure each time the grids cycle?

Whoa! Lets keep it PG in here! That said, let me watch it a few more times

You would think the Northerners would have more trouble since they are the ones dumping in antigel and things that dilute the lube content. Appears to be the general consensus too

Grids do a pretty good job appearently. I'd like to see a graph of all that.

I think we need to stop putting down CF. They're our rival but this isn't a political campaign If someone over there see's this that is a true CF addict, they might declare war and then we will end up being no better than them. Lets try and keep from starting trouble over here.. I don't want to see this site go the same way.

It's not that hard to do. Just glance down and see it lol. I have more trouble seeing around that huge pillar so I had no desire to put gauges on it to make it even worse. After a while you get to the point of knowing exactly where the gauge is at and when you need to be letting off without ever having to look at the gauges.

I think the rule of thumb is to be over 100F but not excessively. So 100-120F I would say is where you want it. I asked him a while back what he had maxed out at and he said 176F was the highest he'd ever seen. Pretty amazing that that's the hottest it has ever got. Higher temp thermostats do help mileage since, well look at cold oil and how it cranks over and compare it to a warm engine starting... the hotter the better, as long as its not excessive. That diesel power magazine where they got 31mpg out of a 3500 used a 200F thermostat for this very reason. If there was a way to keep coolant steady then I think I would set mine to stay at 210. If you get too hot you start breaking down your oil and things.. and you must remember that oil generally will be the same temp as the coolant since they exchange heat in the oil cooler, and the turbo bearings are cooled by the oil so that's another reason you don't want to get excessive heat. It might not be a concern without a trailer since the turbo will only be building 10psi max if your "mileage driving"..

You mean one of these Russ? It's a 2.2L Isuzu. We put the turbo on it and it had a pretty good impact on it.

I have a thing for putting things down low around the shifter

I think you need to calibrate that APPS. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm Says how near the bottom. That's the only thing I can think of.